SoundSplinter

Hello, Somewhat of a newbie when it comes to subwoofer systems and I am looking for some advice. I currently have a SoundSplinter RL-p15 in an ported enclosure, the enclosure is "4.694^3ft gross box vol. Slot port, 15" x 2.5" x 35.25" Long tuned @28Hz. After all displacement, 3.503^3ft net box vol". I am currently powering it with a ALPINE PDX-1.1000 and I have a second ALPINE PDX-1.1000 available that is not being used. It really hits and I do enjoy the setup however I end up wanting more power thus my question: If I was to replace the RL-P15 with 2 RL-P12's and power each with a ALPINE PDX-1.1000 what kind of difference would I be looking at from the single 15? It seems…

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Well I talked her into going with me, and entering her first comp today. Her setup is 2 RL-i 8" sealed (1.3cubes) with a Directed 1500D. A TL mic was used, sealed at the dash she put up a 135.8. She's now decided that she wants a ported box, lol.

Because of airspace requirements, I have to make a choice, and I'm not doing very well at it. My amplifier is a Memphis Belle, running 1100 watts rms @ 1 ohm to the subwoofer side of the house. My debate is between 2 RL-i's ported, getting about 550rms each, or 4 sealed getting 250rms each. I'm looking for LSQ, I need a good mix, and want people to say: "What kind of 12's are you running"....

I have been shopping around for new subs for a long time now, switching back and fourth from all kinds of speakers, but in this forum, EVERYONE seems to be happy with soundsplinter. i can't believe it noone has NOTHING bad to say about these subs, which say a lot about the product. i'm looking for decent sq, but really high spl, and from what i've read on the forums on both here and on sounddomain.com, these sound like the speakers that would match my wants. i still want to know a little more, though... to me it sounds almost too good to be true. the subs were compared to re xxx's on sounddomain and a few people said that these subs are about what and what (the 15's), bu…

first impressions of the sound are sumptuous! will post more as i get more listening time with it!

I cant really see any downsides of having my boy draw me a sweet ass picture on the cone. Im just not sure what it should be done with. I was thinking a black sharpie, but I was also thinking paint. What kind of paint would work for an aluminum cone that wont melt when the cone gets hot?

today I finished my ported box for a single RLI-8 tuned @ 33hz. It went into my wifes highlander running @ 2ohms off a digital designs SS1 and all I can say is Dammmmmm. The sound is incredable, the bass tight, clean, very musical and very loud on all music from yung yoc to some hawaiian music. I just need to tune the amp tomorrow and Iam sure it will even sound better then today (untuned). Iam glad I made this purchase and will continue to use, buy and spread the word about soundsplinter here in Hawaii.. Aloha

give us any hints?

Hey guys, glad I found this place. I'm finishing up an install in my Nissan Titan and I've run into a wall. I've got all the comps, amps, HU, changer, everything except for my subs installed. Problem is my mounting depth restrictions. I have already gone through two RF 8"s (didn't like the sound), a cheap Infinity 10" (not enough) and now I have two Infinity 10VQ's sitting in my living room because their 6.5" mounting depth is going to be nearly impossible to squeeze under the rear seat and still manage enough air space. So I was recommended the SS RL-i 10" by a friend. Its mounting depth should work fine, but I wanted to ask you guys if it will suit my needs. I'm…

I'm running 2 rl-p 12's off of a 1200 watt infinity amp (im never getting an infinity amp again) in about 1.25 cubes each sub. My brother is running a 13W7 off of the JL 1000 monoblock i think its in a 2 cube box. His W7 beats me in the higher and lower frequency bass notes but i do keep up in the lower notes. But overall he kills me. I was really hoping i could just bash up his w7 with these 2 12's. Any tips on how i can kill my compitition with this beast. Yeah I am pretty sure going ported will do it but im not sure if i want to go that rout. THanx. I think a better amp might help because this infinity amp is clipping like crazy.

Well, I have removed all my car stereo stuff to make room for family in my ride...BUT, I cannot part with my RL-p 12..I just love it too much. I was wondering if box sizes/styles would be the same for use in the house? It is looking like I will be starting with around a 200w home audio amp. I know that is way under the RL-p, but I aint selling muh speaker... any ideas/opinions welcome

I got my RL-p12 to day. Going to put it in this weekend. All I have to say right now is that is one heavy sub. I am going to put it in the same box my 12 SE is in 2feet @ 32hz and see how she sounds. I will build a new box in the future. I have a PG X600.1 to push it. Thats it for now I will tell every one how I like it and I will compare it to the SE12. Same amp same box so all will be equal. Mike J.

When will you guys get them back in stock? It's either one 15 or two 12" and I really don't want to spend the money for an amp to power two 12"'s... As far as the RL-p15 goes... 600 watts should be enough power for a ported box right? Could I go higher? Thanks in advanced!

Hey all, thinking about getting in at the last minute before the price hike. Was toying with the idea of another 2 rli8's but I have a sundown 3000 sitting here I got a great deal on and would like to use. Would two rlp18's sealed hang with the 3000 if I am conservative with it? This will be goin in the back of my 07 f150 extended cab. I should be able to go 10 cubes for the pair and still have room for the amp and a battery or two. thoughts? Thanks!

ok folks, here it goes. First, thanks go to Mike for letting me test out his baby. It is a blast, to say the least. Second, this is just some preliminary review. I've got some more listening time left and I plan on using it ! Alrighty then, on to the beef; Vehicle: 2005 Chevy Trailblazer. Factory electrical and Bose sound system. Amp: Orion 2500d wired to 3.5ohm nominal (not much choice, eh?) Box: 2.5ft^3 tuned to 28hz with 32in^2 of port. Music played: You name it, for rap to rock to test tones. Impressions: Clarity: this thing doesn't know distortion. even when I clipped the amp, distortion is, well, impossible to pick up, to my ears at least. I have no…

Okay, I have to make 2 ported boxes for 2 pioneer TS-W1240C's to sell in order to be very close to placing my order for my first rl-p 15". I am having a problem with my calculations for port length. i used this formula: x = cross sectional area of port (inches^2) y = net volume of box after displacements (inches^3) z = tuning frequency of port (hz) PL= Port length (inches) x[1.84 * 10^8] _______________ - .823 * \/ x PL = y[z\.159^2] with x=52, y=3276, and z=33 i came out with a port length of 22368.8 in. Obviously thats not right. so help me out. where did i go wrong?

yes fibreglass.... NOW before u say it will dry way to hard etc etc the cone of my sub is aluminum i think, its painted but i sanded a small part and its shiny under so im thinking of trying to fix the HUGE crack with fibrglass this isnt my first time with glass so i know how to use it and prep ur piece etc, u think it will hold? damage pic now that was taken after i first heard my sub sounded wierd, this is after i straightened it abit(could probably get it better) i should say this would be a TEMP thing, i jsut sold my last setup and want something to bump until i find something to buy

The box is 1.4cubes sealed. It's powered by a Directed 1500d. Let me know what you think.

give me some info and tips bout this sub.... all help is greatly appreciated... Aloha

My 2nd 18" RL-p was to be delivered today. While at work I checked on-line and it showed delivered. When I got home it was gone, Stolen. Sometime between the time I left work and got home (20-30min) someone got to it. I'm not in a bad neighborhood so I'm not sure who took it. I asked all my neighbors, but of'corse no one saw anything. I filed a police report (knowing I'll never see it), but I guess it's the thing to do.

when wireing my voice coils together,i couldnt get 2 sets of 10 guage in the one side? so i went with 12 throughout? any one got any good ideas about how to wire a rl-p 12 dvc with 10 guage? -me

I have some questions about the RL-I 10" Sound Splinter sub. Right now, I'm running a RF 601S that is rated at 300x2 at 2 ohms and 600x1 bridged at 4ohms. It has a maximum peak of 900x2 at 2ohms or 1800 rated watts bridged at 4ohms. Can this sub handle that peak? Cause that's how I blew my Cerwin Vega Vega10D4s. I want to purchase two of these subs, and hook them up to the RF amp. Got a box, and just want to clear this up. Thanks for the help!

with 300 watts went to a small audio meet in here in town, and many people had their stuff metered. i figured what the hell, so i borrowed a friend's amp (i STILL don't have my main amp yet...but that's for another thread). his amp puts out 300 @ 2 ohms. the termlab was used, and was placed in the passenger side kick panel. i hit 137 dB... guess that doesn't seem TOO bad considering the sub is in a 2.0 sealed, and in the trunk....with only 300 going to it....

okay i was messing around with the info yall gave me for tube ports and i came up with this: now is it okay to have the 2 ports on the opposite ends of the enclosure?