SoundSplinter

i'm thinking of going sealed. it'll be around 2-2.5ft per sub. my question is how much output will i lose? ported only adds 3db, right? will the better sq be worth it? in your opinions? the main reason for the switch is it'll be easier to do than the huge ported and that tc gave me some ideas for a kick@ss fiberglass install

So will these be back in stock soon? just wondering I'm thinking about doing an install with 4 of them

http://photobucket.com/albums/y118/jdva/?a...urrent=dims.jpg I need those dimensions, can some one please help out on this

Not for sure if i will be getting the new amp yet, but its an Elevation audio DX2000.1. I was told it would do 1200-1300 at 2ohm. I am planning on getting a 15" RL-p. So, what do you guys think about 1300rms going to it?? I know it will be fine. So the next question, what type of box should i make sinch i am throwing so much power at them?? Should I go sealed just to be on the safe side??

whats the best size for this? i was thinkin like 3 cubes, 30 sq inches of port, 3x10 slot, and tuned around 30-34, i will have anywhere from 6-1000 watts to mess with.

Hello all. I just ordered a 12" RLP and I am going to be running it off an MTX 2300. The sub will get approximately 700 watts rms. I am debating about what enclosure I would like to use in my car. I currently am running 2 JL Audio 12w6v2's in a sealed enclosure and it sounds good, but I am looking for a little bit different sound. I would like it to have the potential for getting loud, but with precise sounding bass. Would I be better off going with a sealed enclosure again, or should I try a ported enclosure? Also, as far as vented/ported, does slot ports or round ones matter?

give us any hints?

i just got my hands on a RL-i10 subwoofer. the RMS on the sub is 200 watts - 500 watts per coil @ 4 ohm (DVC). the amp im using is a kicker 1000.1 with a RMS rating of 1000 watts @ 2ohm. kicker amps normally peak about 2.5 times the RMS rating. so i figured this would be a good matching sub amp combo. the box im running it a sealed box @.65 CF. the bass knobs is set @50% and the gain is set @ 25% and the crossover is set @ 200hz on the amp and H.U. but if i turn it up too 25 or over it destorts really box unless i turn the gain down to 25%. i thought with the amp i have i would be able to run it a 50% gain which i figured would be about 1200-1400 watts or 600-700 per coil…

I have been shopping around for new subs for a long time now, switching back and fourth from all kinds of speakers, but in this forum, EVERYONE seems to be happy with soundsplinter. i can't believe it noone has NOTHING bad to say about these subs, which say a lot about the product. i'm looking for decent sq, but really high spl, and from what i've read on the forums on both here and on sounddomain.com, these sound like the speakers that would match my wants. i still want to know a little more, though... to me it sounds almost too good to be true. the subs were compared to re xxx's on sounddomain and a few people said that these subs are about what and what (the 15's), bu…

I'm running 2 rl-p 12's off of a 1200 watt infinity amp (im never getting an infinity amp again) in about 1.25 cubes each sub. My brother is running a 13W7 off of the JL 1000 monoblock i think its in a 2 cube box. His W7 beats me in the higher and lower frequency bass notes but i do keep up in the lower notes. But overall he kills me. I was really hoping i could just bash up his w7 with these 2 12's. Any tips on how i can kill my compitition with this beast. Yeah I am pretty sure going ported will do it but im not sure if i want to go that rout. THanx. I think a better amp might help because this infinity amp is clipping like crazy.

I bought a 12" Soundsplinter RLP 5 years ago and just recently sold the car that I had it in. I was looking to go back to the drawing board so to speak, and possibly upgrade to an RLP 15 and noticed that it seemed everything was out of stock, and now the website is down. I have looked around at other drivers, but I am having a hard time finding a woofer that is as good as the one I have, that doesn't require 1,000 watts or more to jam, doesn't take a ton of space up, and is reasonably priced. Does Mike from Soundsplinter still cruise this board? I remember he helped me out tremendously when I purchased the woofer.

Ok, well my boy is wanting two 8's. I directed him to the RL-i8's. I need some input from people who are running them already. Some form of a review in a ported box would be great. Maybe a comparison to other subs. Please let me know. Thanks

i just got done talking with Mike and he let me in on a few things that he has lying around. limited quanities for sure, so get them while you can. 12" RL-i drivers. dual 4 versions, $180 plus shipping. he has 3 or 4 left Overstock 8" drivers. yes, 8" drivers. similiar to the vaunted RL-i 8, here's the specs, Qts - 0.405 Qes - 0.442 Qms - 4.778 Fs - 34.289 Hz Re - 5.25 Ohm Ls - 12.16mH Lp - 4.053 mH Rp - 25.46 Ohm Vas - 5.031 L Mms - 214.1 g Cms - 100.6 m/N Bl - 23.39 T*m Sensitivity - 78.44 dB ~17mm Xmax The 8's are built on the TC2+ motor, and the only appreciable differences between the RL-i8 and the Overstock 8 are the use of a paper/kevlar composite cone (no logo),…

Hi guys, well I've had this Rl-i8 for about 2 months and it was real good. I had a custom box built for it that was about 36" long, but had 50" of port area, tuned to 34 hz and about 1 cuft of airspace. Man was this sweet in my car. The thing is, I started smelling something odd (didn't recognize the smell) I thought it was my engine, but left the car on to find out what it was (left my music playing fairly loud) and then the bass just gave out. I noticed my amp was running pretty hot and noticed the remote wire was loose (DOH!) could this have been the reason my subwoofer gave out? I removed the sub from the enclosure and sure enough the voice coil was burnt black. It wa…

heres a link to the avalanche specs. I've already ordered a rl-p d2 on the group buy but i may pick up the avalanche, too if its not a very simliar sub. http://forum.soundillusions.net/showthread.php?t=50318 the box will be small sealed and if somebody could tell me which is most optimal i would appreciate it.

I bought an RLS-15 (sorry not an RLP-15) a few years ago with a Behringer EP-2500 with the best intentions, to build an IB manifold in my livingroom ceiling. It turns out I am not a good carpenter and chickened out on cutting a manifold opening in my ceiling, so my IB dreams never came true. I just can't seem to make anything pretty out of plywood and MDF. I've listed the amp and speaker on ebay and hope that the RLP-15 will find a deserving home with someone who really understands this driver's capabilities. I ended up just putting a Axiom 12" subwoofer cube in the livingroom. I was sad to hear that Soundsplinter is closing and wish the owners best of luck in their next …

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Everone (sundown, mach5, etc) now adays is making a super woofer, and I was just wondering if you had any plans in the works? I've always loved your subs, and I would defenatly be on that list, LOL. :bigclap:

Well i have one rl-p 18 that is still pretty stiff even after a year of use. And today i just found another one at a pawn shop and picked it up for a really really low price. the coils are fine, both read 2.0, theres no rips or tears in the spider/surround. Now that i have 2 i really want to run them both in a sealed enclosure, but im worried they might play somewhat out of phase due to the one from the pawn shop having a looser suspension. Could this happen or am i just worrying too much? thanks!

Weds, Nov. 2nd I received the RLS-12" for the demo ring. I'll start with the summary, because there is alot of typing and I know alot of people don't want to read it all. In the end, and IN MY OPINION: The RLS is an awfully impressive driver. The output of this thing is downright impressive. As more then one "well known" engineer has said, You don't need 40 Newton Meters of force to make a driver strong. It also seems that the early estimates (based on driver spec's) are correct - this is not much of an In-Car driver. I was expecting this as well, but was hoping to be surprised. The LMT motor design itself seemed to come together awfully well. The driver stood up to ful…

this thread is for those people running a rl-p 15. how much power you feeding it? how big is your box? whats it tuned to? a brief review would be nice. like how it responds on certain music.

Get it yesterday and its seen about 3 hours of play time and its working great. Very basic looking which I like, BUT I also didnt know you could get chit put on the cone. its in 2.5cubes gross, 2.3ish net. Box sounds good, I like big sealeds, definitly muddy on some songs. Woofer is working great im not pushing it hard right now but ill open it up in another few weeks. So far its a good woofer. I'm anticipating opening it in up a few weeks to justlfy the 300 dollar price tag, also at which time I will have tried it out in a ported box so I can make that comparasion. With that Im off to do some more tuning, and crank Guns N Roses. And im going to eat a Rochester Garbage pl…

after i break it in for a couple more hours i'll turn it up and let everone know what i think about it but for now here are some pics. By the way, thanks to all that made the group buy happen and thanks to mike for the great service(you said it'll ship in late may early june and it sure did.)

my nine.1 just isnt doing it for me anymore. i want to put 1kw on each of my rl-p's daily. they'll handle it right, in the sealed box i have? im not sure what type of amp to get though. new or used i dont care. want to spent 350-600 but 6 is pushing it. basically if you buy an amp that does 2kw rms, you're only going to get like 1800w daily for music with peaks and chit right? so that you aren't peaking into clipping? its going to be next to a diamond d5 600.2, so it would be nice to have it look clean too any suggestions? these are d4 woofers so i need something 1 ohm stable.

yes fibreglass.... NOW before u say it will dry way to hard etc etc the cone of my sub is aluminum i think, its painted but i sanded a small part and its shiny under so im thinking of trying to fix the HUGE crack with fibrglass this isnt my first time with glass so i know how to use it and prep ur piece etc, u think it will hold? damage pic now that was taken after i first heard my sub sounded wierd, this is after i straightened it abit(could probably get it better) i should say this would be a TEMP thing, i jsut sold my last setup and want something to bump until i find something to buy