SoundSplinter

Hi guys, well I've had this Rl-i8 for about 2 months and it was real good. I had a custom box built for it that was about 36" long, but had 50" of port area, tuned to 34 hz and about 1 cuft of airspace. Man was this sweet in my car. The thing is, I started smelling something odd (didn't recognize the smell) I thought it was my engine, but left the car on to find out what it was (left my music playing fairly loud) and then the bass just gave out. I noticed my amp was running pretty hot and noticed the remote wire was loose (DOH!) could this have been the reason my subwoofer gave out? I removed the sub from the enclosure and sure enough the voice coil was burnt black. It wa…

i just got my hands on a RL-i10 subwoofer. the RMS on the sub is 200 watts - 500 watts per coil @ 4 ohm (DVC). the amp im using is a kicker 1000.1 with a RMS rating of 1000 watts @ 2ohm. kicker amps normally peak about 2.5 times the RMS rating. so i figured this would be a good matching sub amp combo. the box im running it a sealed box @.65 CF. the bass knobs is set @50% and the gain is set @ 25% and the crossover is set @ 200hz on the amp and H.U. but if i turn it up too 25 or over it destorts really box unless i turn the gain down to 25%. i thought with the amp i have i would be able to run it a 50% gain which i figured would be about 1200-1400 watts or 600-700 per coil…

Well i have one rl-p 18 that is still pretty stiff even after a year of use. And today i just found another one at a pawn shop and picked it up for a really really low price. the coils are fine, both read 2.0, theres no rips or tears in the spider/surround. Now that i have 2 i really want to run them both in a sealed enclosure, but im worried they might play somewhat out of phase due to the one from the pawn shop having a looser suspension. Could this happen or am i just worrying too much? thanks!

I finished my box today for the rl-p. It took awhile but came out pretty nice. All I have to say is that computer guided tools kick *ss! I know the pictures suck, but what do you expect at 12:30 at night.

Alright, ive though it over and over and eveytime i take a bubble bath i think of this. Ive decided to save up a little more and get and wild system, something that will be ground shaking and make leaves fall off trees. Heres what i will buy. (1) Orion 2500D (2500x1 @ 1Ohm) Buying from HCCAfan. (2) SoundSplinter RL-p 15" And i will port them, i dont care if i lose all of my trunk space, i love bass. Why do i need a trunk besides to put subs in there? I was wondering if these subs will be safe with 1250wRMS for a daily drive. Im asking because its better to be safe that sorry.

My g/f called me at work to tell me that there was a big, heavy package delivered to our doorstep today. Wonder what it could be.......

http://photobucket.com/albums/y118/jdva/?a...urrent=dims.jpg I need those dimensions, can some one please help out on this

I have a 2002 S-10 2 door Blazer. Right now i have a pioneer slim sub and box built to fit behind a reg cab s10. Well the 12 is going bye bye to a fellow truck club memeber and i want to have the best of both worlds. 1. Bass 2. Space (cargo) So my question is, what is the smallest box i can go for a rl-i8??? Also will this amp be suffecient? SPA120.2 Circuitry - Class AB technology 4 ohm @ 14.4 - 2 x 120 watts 4 ohm bridged @ 14.4 - 1 x 500 watts 2 ohm @ 14.4 - 2 x 240 watts Capability - 2 ohm stereo Thanks, Jon

Not for sure if i will be getting the new amp yet, but its an Elevation audio DX2000.1. I was told it would do 1200-1300 at 2ohm. I am planning on getting a 15" RL-p. So, what do you guys think about 1300rms going to it?? I know it will be fine. So the next question, what type of box should i make sinch i am throwing so much power at them?? Should I go sealed just to be on the safe side??

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this thread is for those people running a rl-p 15. how much power you feeding it? how big is your box? whats it tuned to? a brief review would be nice. like how it responds on certain music.

give us any hints?

I have a dual 2 ohm 12'' RL-P. I use a directed 1100D directed amp. I'm going tgo wire it for a 1 ohm load. So that would be 1100 watts at 1ohm. I'll keep my gains set right so i dont over power it. I listen to mostly rock, and trance music. but on the occasion i listen to some rap and stuff. I want to do a sealed box. what should the volume be? Thanks guys!

Ok i finally got my first 2 15 Rlp's on the TL ....now i dropped them in the same wall i had my memphis M3's in.....my wall is 2 ported enclosures stacked on top each other and all bolted down with 3" bolts ect....anyway each enclosure is 6 cubes ported at 36 hz now i did alot of testing with the m3's with just 2 and 4 in the wall with 2 m3's i hit a 149.8 in the bottom location with the TL in the pass. side kick with drivers door open (meca style) now with the Rlp's same power all the same conditions i gained 1.3 db a 151.1.... now i just dropped these in didnt break them in nothing just went right 2 the burp not to bad huh? My buddy has the vid. and hopefully it will b…

Hello all. I just ordered a 12" RLP and I am going to be running it off an MTX 2300. The sub will get approximately 700 watts rms. I am debating about what enclosure I would like to use in my car. I currently am running 2 JL Audio 12w6v2's in a sealed enclosure and it sounds good, but I am looking for a little bit different sound. I would like it to have the potential for getting loud, but with precise sounding bass. Would I be better off going with a sealed enclosure again, or should I try a ported enclosure? Also, as far as vented/ported, does slot ports or round ones matter?

whats the best size for this? i was thinkin like 3 cubes, 30 sq inches of port, 3x10 slot, and tuned around 30-34, i will have anywhere from 6-1000 watts to mess with.

yes fibreglass.... NOW before u say it will dry way to hard etc etc the cone of my sub is aluminum i think, its painted but i sanded a small part and its shiny under so im thinking of trying to fix the HUGE crack with fibrglass this isnt my first time with glass so i know how to use it and prep ur piece etc, u think it will hold? damage pic now that was taken after i first heard my sub sounded wierd, this is after i straightened it abit(could probably get it better) i should say this would be a TEMP thing, i jsut sold my last setup and want something to bump until i find something to buy

I have a pair of RL-i8's in very good condition. They are in a sealed enclosure I built (see the build logs) and have been wonderful subs. I'm not posting them for sale yet because I haven't made up my mind. I'm curious to see if there are fans of the RL-i8's out there that would give these a good home.

i'm thinking of going sealed. it'll be around 2-2.5ft per sub. my question is how much output will i lose? ported only adds 3db, right? will the better sq be worth it? in your opinions? the main reason for the switch is it'll be easier to do than the huge ported and that tc gave me some ideas for a kick@ss fiberglass install

I'm running 2 rl-p 12's off of a 1200 watt infinity amp (im never getting an infinity amp again) in about 1.25 cubes each sub. My brother is running a 13W7 off of the JL 1000 monoblock i think its in a 2 cube box. His W7 beats me in the higher and lower frequency bass notes but i do keep up in the lower notes. But overall he kills me. I was really hoping i could just bash up his w7 with these 2 12's. Any tips on how i can kill my compitition with this beast. Yeah I am pretty sure going ported will do it but im not sure if i want to go that rout. THanx. I think a better amp might help because this infinity amp is clipping like crazy.

I have been shopping around for new subs for a long time now, switching back and fourth from all kinds of speakers, but in this forum, EVERYONE seems to be happy with soundsplinter. i can't believe it noone has NOTHING bad to say about these subs, which say a lot about the product. i'm looking for decent sq, but really high spl, and from what i've read on the forums on both here and on sounddomain.com, these sound like the speakers that would match my wants. i still want to know a little more, though... to me it sounds almost too good to be true. the subs were compared to re xxx's on sounddomain and a few people said that these subs are about what and what (the 15's), bu…

Ok, well my boy is wanting two 8's. I directed him to the RL-i8's. I need some input from people who are running them already. Some form of a review in a ported box would be great. Maybe a comparison to other subs. Please let me know. Thanks

just curious about this woofer, looks quite sexy. what are its various attributes? SQ or SPL? low distortion? thanks for your time! http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/zencart...f837bfe2233f7ee

heres a link to the avalanche specs. I've already ordered a rl-p d2 on the group buy but i may pick up the avalanche, too if its not a very simliar sub. http://forum.soundillusions.net/showthread.php?t=50318 the box will be small sealed and if somebody could tell me which is most optimal i would appreciate it.

Weds, Nov. 2nd I received the RLS-12" for the demo ring. I'll start with the summary, because there is alot of typing and I know alot of people don't want to read it all. In the end, and IN MY OPINION: The RLS is an awfully impressive driver. The output of this thing is downright impressive. As more then one "well known" engineer has said, You don't need 40 Newton Meters of force to make a driver strong. It also seems that the early estimates (based on driver spec's) are correct - this is not much of an In-Car driver. I was expecting this as well, but was hoping to be surprised. The LMT motor design itself seemed to come together awfully well. The driver stood up to ful…