SoundSplinter

Weds, Nov. 2nd I received the RLS-12" for the demo ring. I'll start with the summary, because there is alot of typing and I know alot of people don't want to read it all. In the end, and IN MY OPINION: The RLS is an awfully impressive driver. The output of this thing is downright impressive. As more then one "well known" engineer has said, You don't need 40 Newton Meters of force to make a driver strong. It also seems that the early estimates (based on driver spec's) are correct - this is not much of an In-Car driver. I was expecting this as well, but was hoping to be surprised. The LMT motor design itself seemed to come together awfully well. The driver stood up to ful…

First Slot: Kent Second Slot: Jelly Third Slot: squeak Fourth Slot: Noah Fifth Slot: Nick (NY) Sixth Slot: Andrew (NY) Current Slot: Ryan (NY) Week of Jan. 1: Ben (ME) Week of Jan. 8: David (NC) Week of Jan. 15: James (SC) Week of Jan. 22: Tom (AZ)

Linear Motor Technology - A Reference First Looks: RL-s12 & RL-s15 LMT's Specs: RL-s12 & RL-s15 LMT In Motion: RL-s15" LMT RL-s early review Guess what i got.... Has anyone bought an RLS? As time moves on, more links will be added. If you have a link you would like to include, please post it!

after i break it in for a couple more hours i'll turn it up and let everone know what i think about it but for now here are some pics. By the way, thanks to all that made the group buy happen and thanks to mike for the great service(you said it'll ship in late may early june and it sure did.)

I am aiming for a Qtc between 0.707 and 0.8 and an F3 around 40 Hz. For the Rl-p 15" I got the following results, using a web based box calculating program: 1. Qtc = 0.7071 Vb = 3.5 F3 = 43.48 2. Qtc = 0.8008 Vb = 2,38 F3 = 44.14 I was just wandering if you seasoned guys know of a way to reduce the F3 a bit further without changing the Qtc too much? For a SQ application, do you reckon that Qtc 0.8 will sound better than the standard flat Qtc 0.707? Or maybe, the F3s above will be low enough in a VW Passat Variant? How low do you want it to go, at the lowest in a car, sealed F3 wise?

hmmmmm... betcha can't guess!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Well, it's been a while since I've posted on this site and need to update my success with the RLP/passive design. For those of you who have read the following thread, a lot has changed. (about 2,400 visits to the thread) http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...shmike&st=0 By hitting each of those drivers in the sub cabinet with 1450 watts each, my wife blew the speakers while changing movies to a hard hitting Jurassic Park scene via Direct TV. I couldn't get to the living room in time to shut it down. I had to order two more drivers from Mike and received them promptly. Being dual 2 ohm, I wired all 4 coils on both drivers in series and am now presenting an 8 …

Hi guyz, I plan to use 2 x RL-i8s in a ported box. I listen to a lot, I mean a lot of Trance & Techno. 1// Would like to know what the transient response would be from going to a 0.6 cuft net enclosure to a 0.9 cuft net or a 1.2 cuft net one. Which will have the best transient response? For sealed enclosures I know that Qtc of 0.577 will have a better transient response than Qtc of 0.707 2// Does tuning frequencies affect transient response? Tuning between 30hz to 35hz. If yes, what would you recommend. I am a weird SQ guy that listens to Trance & Techno... and sometimes I just throw some smoooooooth jazz SACD in. Thanks Kelvin

I haven't been able to access the website for quite a while. Is there a greater problem, or is the website simply under construction?

Hey guys, glad I found this place. I'm finishing up an install in my Nissan Titan and I've run into a wall. I've got all the comps, amps, HU, changer, everything except for my subs installed. Problem is my mounting depth restrictions. I have already gone through two RF 8"s (didn't like the sound), a cheap Infinity 10" (not enough) and now I have two Infinity 10VQ's sitting in my living room because their 6.5" mounting depth is going to be nearly impossible to squeeze under the rear seat and still manage enough air space. So I was recommended the SS RL-i 10" by a friend. Its mounting depth should work fine, but I wanted to ask you guys if it will suit my needs. I'm…

Hi, guys! Seeing that I'm currently in the position of selling my eD 19Ov.2's, I have to find something else to put in my walled Mini. Didn't even get to test the 19Ov.2's, but I have had a RL-p15 a couple of years ago, and it's the best subwoofer I've ever owned. And the loudest. ^^ So, now I wonder - for a wall (I can use it as "IB" too (very large sealed box), as there's quite a lot of room behind it): 1 (or 2) RL-p18's OR 1 RL-s15? I've heard so much about the RL-s, I really want to try it out! But would it beat a RL-p18 in output? And what about 2 RL-p's? Thanks!

Hi there, I have a Dodge Ram 06 CTD Quad Cab with a sealed center console sub/box .90cf downfiring(it replaces teh front middle seat and can still be used as a seat) and a Diamond Audio CM3 4ohm single voice coil sub and an alpine class D amp 400 rms @ 4ohms 600rms @ 2ohms. Well Im not happy with the diamond audio sub performance on that box with only 400rms, now I have 2 choices, get a diamond audio D6 sub and give it 600rms or get a RL-i8 port it and give it 600 rms... Tu sub box is 22" long(front to back), 8"tall and 13" wide, it has a "hole in the bottom for a 12" sub, now my plan is to seal he bottom hole for the 12"sub and make an opening for a RL-i8 sub on the top …

I cant access the website for some reason to get a contact number. Im interested in purchasing a single RL-S motor. Please let me know contact info so I can give you guys a call.

Get it yesterday and its seen about 3 hours of play time and its working great. Very basic looking which I like, BUT I also didnt know you could get chit put on the cone. its in 2.5cubes gross, 2.3ish net. Box sounds good, I like big sealeds, definitly muddy on some songs. Woofer is working great im not pushing it hard right now but ill open it up in another few weeks. So far its a good woofer. I'm anticipating opening it in up a few weeks to justlfy the 300 dollar price tag, also at which time I will have tried it out in a ported box so I can make that comparasion. With that Im off to do some more tuning, and crank Guns N Roses. And im going to eat a Rochester Garbage pl…

Hey guys I've been snooping around this forum for the past week and found out that the RL-p 12" D4 is not in stock. Kinda upset but then again D2 is in stock which is shocking to me because I've read that 2ohm config. would be a cheaper one to run in overall result of watts per dollars spent. Please don't judge me by my lack of knowledge but that's just what came to my head. Please tell me different because I wanted to get D4 for a long time and they seem to be more popular over D2. Thanks in advance Dan K

I got a new amp, and I think it's about to put a hurtin on my Rl-P12 D4.....It's a Clarion DPX11551 so at 2-ohm, it will be putting 1550RMS to the sub. It will be sealed in 1.25^ft. If the gain is all the way down, will I be OK? Previously ran with 500wrms, and it was a monster. Also, whats the highest I should cross the sub? Im running Dayton RS180-4 7" in the doors. Can I cross the sub at 100hz or am I asking for trouble? Thanks.

I got my RL-p12 to day. Going to put it in this weekend. All I have to say right now is that is one heavy sub. I am going to put it in the same box my 12 SE is in 2feet @ 32hz and see how she sounds. I will build a new box in the future. I have a PG X600.1 to push it. Thats it for now I will tell every one how I like it and I will compare it to the SE12. Same amp same box so all will be equal. Mike J.

This is my first "high end" sub and I love it. Then I broke it, haha. It's been getting about 400 watts from an Alpine mono for about 3 months and gets played pretty hard. It's in the trunk of my s2000 and I really have it cranked with the top down on the interstate. I guess I'm still a newb but I like to think I know a little more than the average DA that walks in Best Buy or whatever. I've never blown up a sub and I never thought I'd have a problem with a driver of this quality. So, I know it's something I did or didn't do, just want to know what caused this and how to fix it. This is the enclosure I built for it. Just ignore the wire through the hole ghettoness. I ha…

my nine.1 just isnt doing it for me anymore. i want to put 1kw on each of my rl-p's daily. they'll handle it right, in the sealed box i have? im not sure what type of amp to get though. new or used i dont care. want to spent 350-600 but 6 is pushing it. basically if you buy an amp that does 2kw rms, you're only going to get like 1800w daily for music with peaks and chit right? so that you aren't peaking into clipping? its going to be next to a diamond d5 600.2, so it would be nice to have it look clean too any suggestions? these are d4 woofers so i need something 1 ohm stable.

with 300 watts went to a small audio meet in here in town, and many people had their stuff metered. i figured what the hell, so i borrowed a friend's amp (i STILL don't have my main amp yet...but that's for another thread). his amp puts out 300 @ 2 ohms. the termlab was used, and was placed in the passenger side kick panel. i hit 137 dB... guess that doesn't seem TOO bad considering the sub is in a 2.0 sealed, and in the trunk....with only 300 going to it....

Once again i forgot to take more pics during the build. i was too eager to finish lol. these are some beefy 8s! i had a couple of 4" aeros i wasn't using so i decided to use it for this build. the circles on the flush panel didnt come out 100% round. i need a jasper jig and router. putting the port together... test fit currently have it in my car til he picks it up. got my arc sending the pair around 800 or so. i'm VERY impressed with their output. to my ear, it's close to my RLp 15 sealed. SQ is pretty nice as well. it's pretty punchy with rock and stuff, quick with the dance/techno, and drops low with hip hop. i think he'll like it.

When will you guys get them back in stock? It's either one 15 or two 12" and I really don't want to spend the money for an amp to power two 12"'s... As far as the RL-p15 goes... 600 watts should be enough power for a ported box right? Could I go higher? Thanks in advanced!

I cant really see any downsides of having my boy draw me a sweet ass picture on the cone. Im just not sure what it should be done with. I was thinking a black sharpie, but I was also thinking paint. What kind of paint would work for an aluminum cone that wont melt when the cone gets hot?

give me some info and tips bout this sub.... all help is greatly appreciated... Aloha

Hello Mike. It is all over the TC Sounds/Audiopulse forum that TC is going under. Will this affect your business and if so what do you see SoundSplinters future being?