SoundSplinter

2 ft^3 tuned to 28Hz with 30 in^2 of port area. Never took any pics of the build though Click on the pic for a bigger one. Still needs to be sanded off and finished. Used a mixture of glue and MDF dust to seal it up, works great, and so easy to sand. Need to fill the screw holes, and cover. This might turn into just a test mule box, not sure yet what I want to do yet. Here is the box design (Excel spreadsheet): Click Here Pr0n available soon.

Tired of trying to figure our which amplifier and woofer combination you should invest your hard earned cash into? Well now you won't need to fret over all of the many combinations available, as flakko and myself have decided to team up to bring you some super solid deals on some of the best subwoofers and amplifiers that are out there on the market today. Following, you will find package deals featuring combinations of SoundSplinter's RL-i and RL-p Series subwoofers in conjunction with USAmp's Xterminator line of multi-channel & mono amplifiers. These combo's will ensure that you receive the exceptionally clean and powerful amplification that USAmps is know…

i'm coming up with a lot more airspace than i thought i would out of my ta. basically i can make the box anywhere from 2.5 to 3, possibly 3.2 cubic feet, net. (this is sealed) i like deep, low bass as opposed to tight punchy. amp is an elemental designs nine.1. mike told me the sweet spot would be 1.25 to 1.35 net feet, per sub, but i asked the question thinking that i would barely be able to manage 1.25 per sub. so now that i have more options, what do you all think?

i went to my local alpine dealership to get my RL-p15 metered in my '93 Explorer and I managed to get 141.5dbs. my box is 2.5ft^3 @34Hz powered by a JL 1800d amp. I was being cautious though with my amp 1/2 power and the gains on the deck conservative. ive only had the sub for about month so i didnt want to risk something going wrong. the suprise was when i hooked up a single audiobahn AW1206T afterwards and hit a 138.6. it was in a 2.3 ft^3 @36Hz. i thought that was pretty decent for a $120ish sub. absolutely no competition in SQ though. RL-ps are something else. when i play System of a Down's "BYOB", it hit every single drum note. i'll try and post some pics of the se…

Greetings all! I'm back in action after my week long excursion to northeastern Europe and I see that the momentum around here has hardly slowed if at all, which I am happy to take as an indicator of the public satisfaction with the products I have offered to the online car audio community over the last year. To all of you whom have taken the admittedly risky plunge in purchasing from a newcomer to the market, I thank you! Also to those of you who have helped spread the word by telling your friends, or even simply by posting pictures of your system on the 'net, I can't thank you enough. So many of you have played an important role in helping get the SoundSplinter name…

Hey guys I've been snooping around this forum for the past week and found out that the RL-p 12" D4 is not in stock. Kinda upset but then again D2 is in stock which is shocking to me because I've read that 2ohm config. would be a cheaper one to run in overall result of watts per dollars spent. Please don't judge me by my lack of knowledge but that's just what came to my head. Please tell me different because I wanted to get D4 for a long time and they seem to be more popular over D2. Thanks in advance Dan K

anyone done a test on this yet ,im just curious might pick up a rl-p one day to play with how would they compare sealed with like 1000w,and ported with 1000 also how would they compare ported with the same power (or less) thanks...

I just finished ordering my Rl-p 12, and I cant wait to get it. I think i messed up a little, see what I did was buy an amp before sub thinking that I was going to get a different sub, but now I decided on this one. The first problem I have is way too much power I beleive. I have the Lanzar Opti 2000D, which will put out 1100 at 2 ohms. I will obviously keep the gains turned down. The main point of this post is the enclosure for me that will handle some of that power and sound good doing it. It seems that most ppl around here say to try this thing sealed, but I have a few questions about that first. The kind of music I listen to is country, rock, and some rap, so I n…

I am posting this hear rather than the amplifier section on the team ssa forums, simply because there are more SS users right here If this should be moved, thats np at all. What I need is an amp to power my single RL-p 12" D2. So im looking at 1 ohm and 4 ohms. for budget it would reeally be nice not to be broke after, and have to save up for weeks again to get some comps. Things like the eD 9.1 for 350 is probably the highest I want to go. and I know that there is a lot of hifonics things that can do the job. at the same time I have heard alot of nasty stories about em. This is my first system.. and can upgrade later, just want to get the ball rolling on it. Any a…

I'm see that my 18" is getting a little discolored. I was wondering if there is something that I can do to clean them, and help keep them from turning.

What would the Rms rating for the 18 in the optimal box specs be? and is the rating conservative? like could i be putting 1300 into it without worries?

i swore to myself yesterday that i would 'leave the system alone' for a month,to fully appreciate and give it a chance. but less than 12 hours go by and im wonderin,if i threw a box on that baffle ???? new speakers in the doors? deadening material/hood/firewall liner?........i will not touch it for a month...i will not,no no no!!!!.........must sleep..... stop thinking bout the sounds......notice wife........perhaps just the door speakers?....

edit: I have received a $70 credit as compensation. Very cool. The 2 15" rlp subs i ordered arrived today. The first thing i noticed was an outward dent in one of the subwoofers cones. Both have imperfections but this is the most noticeable. The other sub has minor blemish dents just around the logo. Hard to capture with camera and hard to notice. Not that big of a deal. This dent has somewhat bothered me about the order. It sucks having buyers remorse, it sucks having to ship products back for replacement also. Its hard to see how this would have been caused during shipping, without puncturing the cardboard container. An email has been sent to mike, i was ju…

Hey whats up everyone im new to the forums and just wanted to say whats up, and help me with my decision please.. For the last little while ive been deciding on a system and just recently someone recommended ss subs....Ive been doing nonstop research on these subs, to find out whats the deal, and they are obviously no joke....Either way ill get down to it, heres what else i will be running not includding sub(s) and amp Pioneer preimere deh-P670MP edit now: Pioneer DEH-P80MP Pheonix Gold Ti5Comp Elites Orion 8002(refurbished) or Orion 8004(new) Opinions on these are welcome. KnuKonceptz wiring Now the part I want all the oppinions on..(If it helps i listen to mainly rap, …

My sister wants something louder in her car. Right now she has two JL 10w1v2's in the JL ported box with about 500 watts going to the pair. I don't really know much about SoundSplinter products but I was wondering if a 15" RL-p in a 3 ft^3 box @ ~ 30hz (already have) would be noticeably louder than what she has now. The RL-p would probably be run off a Nine.1 @ 1 ohm. She listens to mostly rap and R&B. The only other sub that has been in that car was a 15" RF P3 in the same ported box so if a RL-p would be louder than both of these setups it looks like that is what I will buy (I know they are backordered but it will probably be about a month before I buy them). A…

I've decided if I can keep from having to make a wall to fit them both I would rather go that route. I should be getting my truck back here shortly. Then I can start on the box for the 2 18"s. They'll be pushed by an Orion 2500D. I had a plan made up to do a 4th order box in a wall, but I would rather not do a wall if I can get away with it. What would be the smallest sealed box I could do per sub?

alright, i ordered my rlp 15, dvc 4 ohm...def looking forward to it...its going to powered by a MTX 801D...800 rms, in a 5th gen civic coupe...i've build about a dozen boxes before but only done sealed...only lately i've been aquainted with winisd and other port determining programs...so i want to build my first ported box... max outter lenght = 34.5" - pretty much written in stone max outter height = 15.5" - pretty much written in stone max outter width = up to 23 inches on bottom, 19 on top, this is a wedge box... - can be (shorter) smaller, not written in blood max outside cube = 6.49 cubes ********|-----------\ sub is***|*********\ facing***|**********\ this side*…

too lazy to paint or carpet the box, but supa_c spraypainted the port haha. All in all it came out decent...had a couple air leaks in the face and i was too lazy to take the subs back out and seal from the inside so I glued some spots from the exterior...then i realized i should have just added a couple extra screws on top lol. 3.0 ft^3 net ~34hz. and i get to say i met mike from SS! who else can say that? i wanted the logoless + sig but he was out of the logoless, but the anodized cones w/ logos were my 2nd choice. i haven't had extensive playing time with these babies yet, but they are quite the impressive drivers. i've only listened to rap and stuff like that so …

Hope you have a good birthday. (well tomorrow).

I am currently runnign 2 13kv2's sealed with about 450 per sub. I metered it at about 132 in the trunk of my Altima. i am wanting more output and am lookign at goign with 2 12RL-ps in a ported box with about 700 per sub. Will I see a noticable difference in output? Just wondering if spending the $450 bucks for new subs will be worth it.

Well, right now they are housed in 5.5NET @ 37hz w/ 70in^2 port area. Not what I call an ideal box. They are loud, but not by my standards. New box will be had in less than a month 6 Cubes NET, 33hz, 91in^ port area and threaded rod bracing. The port velocity in the current box is ridiculous, blows harder than fudge, and has got to be hurting my output. Also I have serious flex issues, like the baffle actually has an xmax :-p. From what I've seen out of them thus far, I have a feeling that in about 1 month, I am going to be very, very loud.

Ok, Im lazy and Im just copying what I wrote on another forum, but I cant help showing off my new RL-P's!!! I dont know if this is gonna get moved to ICE or not, but I decided to take a few pics of a new setup. I havent washed my car in like 3 Weeks - so excuse the filthyness of it Anyways, I got my new box installed along with my Eclipse Navi. Also Ive had my TWM in for awhile, but I figured somebody may be interested... My car - Filthy... TWM All Closed up Open Navi My Compustar 2-Way New Sub Setup... Thats it for now... I plan on cleaning everything up once it quits raining here in MT, but who knows when that will be, lol.

Hmmm tryin to make a decision on which ones would be louder/have deeper bass..im lookin for LSQ...and im looking for the bass that wows the friends but also hits low to vibrate your seats...just tryin to get some opinions...i would most likely get the DD used for cheaper than the 2 RL-p's...TIA

I know the rl-p's are solid LSQ drivers, but just how much is the split between sq and spl? I used to have a pair of L7 12's and was happy with the spl, but not as happy with the sq. I liked those subs and since both are around the same price range, i was wondering how the rlp's would compare to the L7's spl-wise thanks