SoundSplinter

Power Acoustik A2400DB or Lanzar Opti 2000D...

my first run rl-p ( painted logoless cone) has started to die. it's not dead, but it's on it's way. so i'm retireing it. i guess too many 2500wrms runs in 2.5ft^3 tuned to 28hz. but boy did it sound good down that low and that loud..lol... i'm going to miss it.. but it's replaced, albeit for a short while, but a LA audio x2...at least it's another tcsounds product.. so, do i send it in..or make it a really pretty and heavy paperweight?? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i've got 2 rl-p's with 1.3 ft^3 each, maybe a few hundredths of a foot less. i put in about 30 or 35 oz of polyfill. i just kind of stuffed it in there whole. am i supposed to tear off smaller pieces before packing it? is 30-35 oz about the right amount? thats net volume, speakers factored in. might be as little as 1.2 net, i never worked the exact numbers for the final dimensions i went with.

Hi guys, After much consideration and listening, I am thinking about redoing my current setup, especially the enclosure. Currently I have a the following setup in my car (Lexus IS 220d): - Original (Lexus) HUD and amplifier - Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.2 - Front Tweeters: 1 pair of Scan-Speak D2904/6000 - Front Woofers: 1 pair Seas W18NX-001 - JL Audio 450/4 amplifier - JL Audio 1000/1 amplifier - 2 SoundSplinter RLp-12 subwoofers - Cap., 2nd battery, etc. Anyways the current enclosure is a ported enclosure, about 3.1 cu.ft., but I really dislike how the subwoofers perform. They sound to muddy, unclear and kinda slow (especially with fast techno-based bass songs). Here is a …

Hi guys! I am about to build my first box. The sub is a rli-10 DVC. The sealed box will be about 11 x 11 x 13.6. I was going to use MDF 3/4. Inside volume then equals ~ 0.64^3, which is just shy of the recommended size for this sub in a sealed box. (recommended size = 0.65) I was reading on Crutchfield that they recommend a double layer of MDF on the side where you mount the sub. That would really cut into my box volume. It's a tight squeeze as it is and I can't really make the box any bigger. My question is if you think a double layer is needed on such a small box. Also.. I would really like to make the box even smaller. Say like cut the depth of it by another inch. That…

hey i may be buying an rlp 15 cheap but the guy didnt know what was wrong with the sub until i asked him about the the mag not being magnetized...would it be under coverage for him? warranty or something, or can i buy it have it shipped to you guys and you guys get it magnetized? thqnk you much hunterw

anyone done a test on this yet ,im just curious might pick up a rl-p one day to play with how would they compare sealed with like 1000w,and ported with 1000 also how would they compare ported with the same power (or less) thanks...

OK, these are crud MS paint drawings, but you get the ideas, lol. I plan on starting this tonight. I'm just not to sure which one to go with. 4 6" flair ports, or 1 big slot port. I'll get more port area with the slot port, but I do have 4 6" flairs sitting here as well. On to the specs & drawings. I used bcae1.com for my results with this. Click on pix to make them bigger. Slot port specs & drawing 6" Flared ports specs & drawing What are your thoughts? Should I go with the obvious, more air space with the slot port? Thx for the help & input guys.

Looking for some subs for my car.I would like to have two 12" Soundsplinters.

Would two 15 inch RL-Ps be choked in 3.2 cubes sealed for both woofers? Would Polyfill help at all? Thanks

Hey Mike and crew, I'm a long time owner of an RL-i8 S4 looking to upgrade and need to think through my options. Here's what I've been running the last 3 years: 2005 Tacoma double cab (very limited space behind back seats) one RL-i8 S4 in a sealed 0.3ft^3 3/4mdf box two soundstream reference 700s amps (one for mids/highs, one for the sub) amps and sub behind back seat, thus the reason for only one sub First let me say I've been very happy with the rl-i8 purchase, and Mike took the time to reply to my questions which is why I'm coming back. It's been an awesome little sub and has held up well over 3 years of real world conditions. But ultimately I've always desired a bit m…

In a 1.5^3 sealed box with about 700 watts going to each sub which one one do you think will be louder SE or RL-p. Which would have Better SQ?

i have 2 soundsplinter prototype 8s, but i want another rl-p 12, anyone wanna trade?

What are the opinions of forum members who have used them? Enclosure size? Ported or sealed enclosure? What is optimum amperage for each subwoofer? >>>> Anyone have one to sell to me? <<<<

hey mike.... i know i kind of asked this question through e-mail but i figured i'd throw this out there. are there any new products or other soundsplinter items coming out soon.....

OK, so after many months of procrastinating, I finally got around to building it. Now keep in mind when looking at these pix, it's far from done. This was a quick build to make it to a show. I still have a lot of the "beauty" trim to put up, wires to clean up, and tuning to do to the amps. So with that being said, it's on to the pix!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This was my old setup The new build My door panels with 2 MAW 6.5"s & 2 Fusion Power Plant Tweeters to each door Be genital with the remarks & comments, lol. I know it's not a "true" wall, but I go through so many ideas that I wanted to be able to take it out later, lol.

I posted this in the wrong forum earlier , so here goes again . I recently have started the search for a crazy spl set-up . Along the way I stumbled upon these subs called SoundSplinter . Always being one to give anything a look , I decided to investigate . I was plesantly suprised at what I found . What seems to be a quality sub at an even better price . So that is why I came here . I am thinking of going with either 2 or 4 15's . I will be powering them with a Directed 2400D . I am most interested in the RL-p 15's . Does anyone know if my 2400D would run 4 of these monsters . I am currently running two MTX 9500 15's in my Focus ZX3 . I am looking to use this as my daily…

Hey, I am looking for my next up front sub. Need to run a small box of course and I have been running WinISD charts of these subs: RL-i8 RL-i10 Image Dynamics ID8 d4 v.3 Dayton Audio 10" TITANIC III A Qtc of .71 is the goal. CHART#1:RL-i8, ID8, 10" TITANIC GAIN CHART: RL-i8, RL-i10, ID8 SPL CHART: RL-i8, RL-i10, ID8 I have about 280-350 watts and already have a .25 cu ft box. This is about as big as I want to go upfront. Looks like the ID8 has the potential for good output with my power but the RL-i8 & Rl-i10 are more in line with my box size? May try another box program. Any thoughts?

Well, I'm seriously considering picking up a Soundsplinter 12" RL-p to play around with some. I want to stick with using a sealed box, but after glancing at the sub's specs I'm a little worried that it's sealed performance may not be up-to-par (low Qts and high EBP). When I used a Qtc calc to figure out box size required for a Qtc of ~.707, it said I needed a 0.291cuft enclosure, and gives me an F3 of 79.93hz It's like it specs out as a midbass on steroids. Either that or the calculator is WAAAYYYY off. So, what sealed box size would give satisfactory LFE and overall performance??

Hi all, I will be running 2, RL-i8's via an MMATS D1100.1 (2006 model) which outputs 750WRMS at 1 ohm. Each driver will have a full .414 cu^3 and will be in sealed enclosure. I was hoping that the MMATS would output slightly more than the rated power. Unfortunately, the amp does not come with a birthsheet so I have no way of knowing. Will the RL-i8's perform well with this particular setup? I was hoping to run a 900 WRMS amp however I picked up the MMATS for a great price. I increased the original volume from .3 cu^3 to .414 cu^3 in order to compensate somewhat. This is going into a Toyota Matrix in the hatch area with the drivers firing upwards. What do you think? Regard…

Been a while since we heard anything new. What's up? any projects? updates? just workin? Let us know...

I got a new RLP-15 on daway i need to prepared the box for sub. How many cubic is recomended ? tuned to ? IM more in to sound quality ported prefered.

according to the site i would go 3 cu ft tuend to 34hz..but i was wondering what some people have gone with and how it turned out..it will be 90% rap music

First time poster here with a question about the RL-P. I have entered the market to find a new sub after a nuked my old school round solo(12 inch D series, had it less than a week bought it brand new never used). I was floating around the caraudio.com forums and saw many people talking up the sound splinter product(I created a similar post to this over there today and all repsonse have been very positive) so I checked out the web site and came away impressed, yet looking for more info. Basically I just wanted to get some opinions as to how this speaker compares to my solobaric. I went with the solo because I loved the small sealed box design. I want my system to sound go…

should be hooking up my rl-ps and having a listen tomorrow after work. i played them with no box when i first got them just to make sure they worked and all since one of the boxes came kind of bashed up. started turning up my nine.1, and they just werent moving much so i ended up turning it up all the way. i realize itll be different in a box, but just want to know whats what before i starting breaking stuff. i have a +18 bass boost on the amp, and i can turn the sub from -10 to +10 on my top of the line kenwood excelon x979 deck. i believe they are either 4.5 or 5 volt preamp outs. i think im going to want a bit more than the amp up all the way. i'll be better off turnin…