SoundSplinter

wanting to try some "different" subs. I've read alot of great reviews on these. Each sub will have approx. 900 watts rms. This will be a daily vehicle so tuned around 30-35hz. I do compete in db drag but mainly bass race. Vehicle will be a 2001 2 door blazer. Thanks in advance.

Dear all, This is the first time, am sending a post so this is similar to a test. I am interested in buying the lil' monsters RL-i8s. Would it be possible to wire 1 Dual 4 ohm to a Single 4 ohm woofer? To make like a 3 ohm load or something I know it is stupid since the specs aren't the same for the two versions but you never know. Thanx a lot guyz. Kelvin

Hi, this is my first time posting on this forum, but have been viewing it for a while, so excuse any ignorance if any. A few weeks ago i was in the market for a single or pair of 15"s and was heavily considering sound splinter, but ended up getting a pair of 07 Orion HCCAS instead becuase of a great deal. However, i use my girl's car quite a bit too and would like a great system in it also. So my attention is on the Rl-S again. I would just like to know if this sub would be perfect for me and my listening tastes. I listen to mainly Dancehall reggae, soca and hip hop. I'm definately not an SQ fan, more so LSQ, i like looowww, ground shaking bass. The loudest previous syste…

Well I'm finally going to use it, lol. The box is 5.2cubes net tuned to 34hz. The beginning Size comparison Holes for the ports. 2 6" PVC There she is. Isn't she beautiful, lol Test fitting the ports I had to notch them to fit the sub, lol . A brace for the box & ports Test fit in the truck Test fitting the sub Blue felt I'll be taking these out, and painting the black before I install the box The finished product

Right now, I'm running the RLp in a 2.5 ported box, tuned to 30hz via two four inch aero's. The output is pretty decent, and the response is still fairly linear. Right now, I'm itching to redo my trunk...again...to a bigger box. I plan a 3.5 cu ft tuned to 30 hz, with 57.75 sq inch of port area. Will I notice a big increase in output? I already drew out the box plans, just debating if I want t go through with it since school is a b*tch right now. Any insights is appreciated. Thanks.

Hi guys, After much consideration and listening, I am thinking about redoing my current setup, especially the enclosure. Currently I have a the following setup in my car (Lexus IS 220d): - Original (Lexus) HUD and amplifier - Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.2 - Front Tweeters: 1 pair of Scan-Speak D2904/6000 - Front Woofers: 1 pair Seas W18NX-001 - JL Audio 450/4 amplifier - JL Audio 1000/1 amplifier - 2 SoundSplinter RLp-12 subwoofers - Cap., 2nd battery, etc. Anyways the current enclosure is a ported enclosure, about 3.1 cu.ft., but I really dislike how the subwoofers perform. They sound to muddy, unclear and kinda slow (especially with fast techno-based bass songs). Here is a …

I have one of each (amp & sub stated in the title), and I'm trying to figure out which amp/sub combo would be best. The 18" will be in a ported box. 5.2 net tuned to 34hz, and the 15" will be 3.4 net tuned to 34hz as well. What's your take on this? Thx, Vic.

Car is a 1993 Nissan 240sx fastback, like the one pictured ...notice the angle of the hatch itself? I am looking to mount (1) RL-P15. Here is my question: Would it be worth it to try and make a box with an angle that matches that of the hatchback glass, so that it fires directly/evenly into the hatch? Or do you think it would be better to just go facing straight up? I COULD fit the sub facing back except I REALLY don't want it to stick out above my back seat, which it would.....though if facing backward is that much better I am willing to sacrifice. Also, is there much difference between 2 enclosures w/ the identical internal volume, but different dimensions? Thanks in a…

Very much a rookie question, but I was wondering what kind of wiring accessories and such I will be needing in order to wire a RL-P15 and Cadence txa1000d to my Pioneer p5800mp? I think I already have a grasp on the tools and materials neded to build the box, but I am wondering more about wiring,harnesses, connections, terminal cups and the like. All I really know is I'll be needing a couple terminal cups, and some wire. But I really have no clue as to what. Please help me! Thanks.

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.p...highlight=rl-i8 Sorry for the post link. I can't find the pics of my enclosure at the moment.

I havent checked this forum for a while, but i noticed someone got stickers with their 18" rl-ps. When did mike start sending out stickers? I love the logo and would put them on my truck if i had them.

I'm on the list for a pr. of Rli-8's and was looking at a US amps XT4000D xTERMINATOR to power them. I'm gonna have to ditch my Memphis 500.1 but it was only temporary anyhow. Whaddaya think. It can be had for 250 on fleabay. My pockets aren't much deeper than that either. Thoughts...........?

Just wanted to say thanks for the sub. Your customer service is outstanding, fast shipping with great care, very helpful and very knowlegable. Will contact you later for more soundsplinter goodies. thanks Aloha Myron

i recently bought another sound splinter rl-s. i have both of them in a 4 cuft sealed box powered by a mmats d3500.1. they sound awesome. what else is awesome is that i asked mike if he could personally delivered the sub to me and he did. when he brought the sub i was like damn i got my sub delivered by the owner of the company. how awesome is that. lol. anyways my car sounds awesome and i will have vids soon.

Hi there, I have a Dodge Ram 06 CTD Quad Cab with a sealed center console sub/box .90cf downfiring(it replaces teh front middle seat and can still be used as a seat) and a Diamond Audio CM3 4ohm single voice coil sub and an alpine class D amp 400 rms @ 4ohms 600rms @ 2ohms. Well Im not happy with the diamond audio sub performance on that box with only 400rms, now I have 2 choices, get a diamond audio D6 sub and give it 600rms or get a RL-i8 port it and give it 600 rms... Tu sub box is 22" long(front to back), 8"tall and 13" wide, it has a "hole in the bottom for a 12" sub, now my plan is to seal he bottom hole for the 12"sub and make an opening for a RL-i8 sub on the top …

Hey, i am thinking about getting an RL-P 15, and i don't want to lose too much trunk, so i am looking at 2.5 net ported around 32Hz. Since the port only has to be around 12in long, could i get by with one 4" flared precision port in a trunk car? If port noise is the only issue, my trunk is sealed off pretty well (dodge intrepid). Thanks!

I was just wondering if anyone has installed a RL-p 15 in a dodge quad cab? if not what others have worked for you? I am thinking of installing a Dvc 2 RL-p 15 under the back seat in a 2.2ft^3 sealed enclosure running off a Phoenix gold tantrum 1200.1 I have also tossed around the idea of installing a Dvc 4 Ri8 in a custom made .65ft^3 ported center seat console running of a phoenix gold tantrum 400.4. The 8 would be for everyday and the 15 would be for shows I would app. any input you may have. Thanks Chad

Mike, I want to thank you for the two new replacement drivers you sent me. Here is the update on the rebuilds.... BTW for those who don't know what happened. My wife blew out my last two drivers due to switiching to a Jurassic Park movie with the gains still set at full. She doesn't mess with the settings on the equipment. I am running a QSC 1450 amp to each driver. A 1450 watt amp is too much power for these drivers if not monitored by you! I over amp for low bass at low volumes for my music. I divided the cabinet with heavy partitioning and made two cabinets in one reducing the cubes down to about 2.2 per cabinet, each having their own driver and two passives. Eac…

Just wondering where is SoundSplinter located and if it is possible to pick up a sub in person to save on shipping costs. Also, I have an '01 Accord sedan and I'm thinking of going with a single RL-p 18" driver. It will be pushed by a DLS A6 at 1 ohm (1200w). Is it better to go sealed or ported? I just took out my DD 9515 and the enclosure for that is 5.5 cubes net I believe. I really want to get loud when needed. I did a 140.4 recently with a Kicker ZX 2500.1 so I'm looking to get into the 140's with the RL-p on the A6. Is it possible? Comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'm either gonna use the RL-p 18 or a 12" Brahma MKI. Brahma will be gettin same power …

need some box help gonna be building my first ported box i listen to mostly rap and from what ive read i should go for like 8 cubes tuned to 32 does this sound right

hey guys iam looking for the gasket that goes around the sub by the mounting holes. If anybody has 1 let me know I will buy it off you. Thanks for looking

The box is a 1.25 cu ft ported to 30Hz with some 2.5" PVC. Just playing around with box sizes and sealed vs. ported. These lil things really get to moving. Sorry the sound quality of the video isnt very good, I was using my lil sis' cheap digital camera. vid

The thread title asks the question. How accurate are they? Are there manufacturing allowances/tolerances? I have heard that most published T/S specs can be off by as much as +/- 20%, is this so for Soundsplinter? I want to know mainly because I want to make a maximally flat (.707 Q) sealed enclosure for my RL-p15 d2 and no matter how I run the numbers, I end up with ~1.75 cubes (I am excited about being able to use such a small box). I know the website says 3 cubes, but is this a low Q design by intention?

Okay..i've read alot of the posts concerning the SS RL-i8's...i love them...i want 8 of them in my 07 ranger....questions are What material is the Magnet Made of...What is the Voice Coil made of...What is the best sealed size for max SPL output, and can they handle the power from two RF T15001 amps at one ohm......also when/where can i buy them...the site says there out of stock....

Does anyone have a working design for dual RL-i8's in a ported enclosure? I'm clueless when it comes to designing ported boxes, and the calculators over at CS.com have me baffled (excuse the pun). I'm looking for flat SQ output but with a deeper range than sealed. I love the T-Box, but I'd like to compare against something that doesn't take up half of my cargo space. Thanks, -J.