SoundSplinter

just thought some of you, maybe even mike would like to respond to the 3rd post in this thread? http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showthread....threadid=123575

At first i only want to clean it, but i got overboard and here's what it come out to be, one shiny backplate (for some reason the flat bottom won't go shine), only use my hand and some polishing product . The beast just get sexier. As i'm mounting the sub inverted, i think this is a good outcome PS: Mike can u make the Terminal hole bigger??!!!, it's a PITA when u trying to insert two 12ga wire (paralel wiring), i like to hide my wire as much as possible .

Basically, I just wanted to know if you would have to supply the same amount of power to a subwoofer to recieve the same performance from it whether it is in a Home Theatre (HT) setup or a car audio (CA) setup. Lets take the RL-S for example (seems to be the popular sub out right now which could be used in both applications), If we supplied the RL-S with 1500 watts of power with a caraudio amp such as one from MTX, and then we took the same RL-S and powered it with 1500 watts from a HT type amp such as one from the QSC PLX series, would the RL-S perform the same, assuming all other variables are the same. Or could you use a lesser powered HT amp and have an identical perf…

Yesterday I drove my car through one of those touch free car washes cuz I was lazy. Well today I opened up my trunk and saw grey spots splattered all over my box. Somehow the water from the car wash got in my trunk. I look at my sub and the cone is discolored from whatever was used to wash my car. The middle of the cone where the water was sitting is very faded and when the sub hit, the water splattered all over the cone. Does anyone know a way that I could take all the color out of the cone so the whole cone will be the same color? The cone looks horrible right now. Any ideas would be great. Thanks, Matt

I was just wondering if anyone has installed a RL-p 15 in a dodge quad cab? if not what others have worked for you? I am thinking of installing a Dvc 2 RL-p 15 under the back seat in a 2.2ft^3 sealed enclosure running off a Phoenix gold tantrum 1200.1 I have also tossed around the idea of installing a Dvc 4 Ri8 in a custom made .65ft^3 ported center seat console running of a phoenix gold tantrum 400.4. The 8 would be for everyday and the 15 would be for shows I would app. any input you may have. Thanks Chad

Hey, i currently have my box in about 1.6 cubes to low 30's, and Mike told me that 2cubes net at 34 would give me more output. I want to make sure i won't lose SQ, but i might give this a try. Will i gain much output with this change? Will i still have excellent SQ? I searched a ton on here and caraudio.com and read up on ports, square inches of port area, etc, and i used various calculators. I used the calc on maximacar.com, which is the best i have seen. The box dimensions are: 24x14.5x15 with a 4 inch by 11" port. The calculator takes into account woofer displacement and displacement of the port, and it comes out to 2.29gross, and 2.06 net. With the box being 1…

i'm using a 1.5" baffle on the sealed box i built for my rl-i10. but there's not a lot of room for the air to pass between the basket and the cutout. should i worry about it ? i've been thinking about using a plexi panel (12" / 12"). i've never used it before. what thickness would be good to replace 3/4" mdf ?

Hi guys! I am about to build my first box. The sub is a rli-10 DVC. The sealed box will be about 11 x 11 x 13.6. I was going to use MDF 3/4. Inside volume then equals ~ 0.64^3, which is just shy of the recommended size for this sub in a sealed box. (recommended size = 0.65) I was reading on Crutchfield that they recommend a double layer of MDF on the side where you mount the sub. That would really cut into my box volume. It's a tight squeeze as it is and I can't really make the box any bigger. My question is if you think a double layer is needed on such a small box. Also.. I would really like to make the box even smaller. Say like cut the depth of it by another inch. That…

I cant really see any downsides of having my boy draw me a sweet ass picture on the cone. Im just not sure what it should be done with. I was thinking a black sharpie, but I was also thinking paint. What kind of paint would work for an aluminum cone that wont melt when the cone gets hot?

Hey Mike, you should look into submitting the driver info for people to look up if they want http://www.thielesmall.com/database.asp

Hey everybody, since I haven't had time to completely revamp our product pages as I am planning on doing soon, I figured I'd post some images of our new cosmetics since we have started shipping our fully black annodized aluminum coned woofers. We will henceforth be producing our entire inventory with these entirely black annodized aluminum cones, with the exception of the new RL-i8's, which will continue using painted aluminum cones (black on the front, silver on the back). Enjoy!

decided to get the ball rolling on this ported box, so i ordered the ports, bought the mdf, finished the plans and got cracking. started building today, thought i'd share a few pics. im planning on having 2 4 inch flared ports firing at the driver and passengers heads. just test fitting here, actually wont block my rear glass at all with the hatch shut. basically all i got done today after i finished the plans. i did 2 of the smaller side pieces, but only attached one. this gives you an idea of the size of the ports i have to accommodate. 4 inch port my ass, its almost 7" at the widest point of the flare. this is without the box in. going to see where it sits with i…

Well, it's been a while since I've posted on this site and need to update my success with the RLP/passive design. For those of you who have read the following thread, a lot has changed. (about 2,400 visits to the thread) http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...shmike&st=0 By hitting each of those drivers in the sub cabinet with 1450 watts each, my wife blew the speakers while changing movies to a hard hitting Jurassic Park scene via Direct TV. I couldn't get to the living room in time to shut it down. I had to order two more drivers from Mike and received them promptly. Being dual 2 ohm, I wired all 4 coils on both drivers in series and am now presenting an 8 …

I have read that some folks have installed dynamat on the inside walls of their sub enclosures. Would this improve output? Thanks JJ

I discovered by accident that Fast Reducer (painting supply) will remove the Logo from the subs very easy. I was using it to clean one since I got some overspray on it. The logo just wiped right off! Thats good for me, since one of mine has a logo and the other don't. Now they both don't LOL

I know that airspace is airspace for the most part, but how far can you go with box shape before it starts to affect sound? I have an area that's too short for 15's so will be using 2 diff heights on box plus shallow wedge in back. Are cubes cubes or will this affect any other factors such as tuning etc.? This is for dual 15's, open box with a single (maybe 2 but haven't decided) slot port of about 75 sq". My main concern is waves getting 'jammed' up in the 4"H, 9"D, 39"W rise in the front of the box. Or maybe that would be a good place for the slot lengthwise? BTW not written on it but width is 39" all the way.

as i see mike floating around , i wanna try to hurry this up, first, the rl-i 8's are in hand!! yep, boots and all! (and urs truely gets number 1!! ) get ahold of mike and get ur's ordered today!!! second, the group buy as listed by squeak. there is a thread already here, check into it. third and most importantly...the LMT enabled drivers will be a reality. mike and thilo are still working out details, and mike will be posting more indepth info later, but know this...they are coming!! so if u wnat an 8...email mike! if u want a D2 rl-p, email squeak and vote in his thread and if u want an LMT..hang around a bit....they are on their way sorry mike..i just couldn't h…

what are the excursion limits on my rl-p 15? i wouldnt mind knowing for when im letting it wang to keep it on the safe side.

NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! well what did you expect?

if you can figure a way to get one of these monster 8s 'sealed' between the drivers seat and the pedals, let me know.....i cant do it! i tried hard but i was defeated by the dark side.

Next to my RE6.5 Me Thx Mike

Alright my RL-p 12 is on its way and now I'm trying to sort out the rest of the things I need. Because of money I am going to get either a Pheonix Gold Xenon 600.1 or a Kicker kx600.1 off ebay for an amp. Any suggestings? Also how and what do I need to wire my sub to my amp? I decided to build a box myself, so for 1 rlp with 600-700 watts at 2 ohms a sealed box should be around 1ft^3? What would be some common dimensions? Finally where is a site that could direct me in going about building a box. Thanks

The box is 1.4cubes sealed. It's powered by a Directed 1500d. Let me know what you think.

i've looked at the new poles that everyone's been submiting, and it seems to be getting more about "vs." and i know everyone hates those poles, but since i'm really looking into these subs, i just really want to know what to expect and no b.s.... I used to have a 12" punch hx2 (the old ones), i've had solo-baric 12's, and kicker comp 12's, and as far as i know, none of these subs compare to the sq from ss, but i'm wondering if theres a box tuned or built to make these subwoofers absolutely PUND! i know they have good sq, but i'm thinking w/ a 3" voice coil, these things should be louder than any of the speakers listed above my favorite subwoofer owned was that punch 12. i…