SoundSplinter

I've always had 12s sealed. One of my favorite setups I had believe it or not was my old JL Audio W3D4 12s sealed with 500 watts. IMO they got plenty loud for the power and souded good to boot. How would a pair of the RL-i 10s compare vented with 600 watts?

Im doing a research paper for English III and it will probably become my senior project for English IV and my topic and title which i am trying doing this paper on is "Different Driver Motor Technologies/Alignments and Their Affect On BL over X" So far ive asked on SIN under adire's message board to get information on XBL^2, im hoping to somehow get some information on JL's DM, weezle out some info on ascendants new technology, and as a back up i am using LMT along with your basic overhung and underhung. So any information which can be provided on LMT as far as its application in specific drivers and if im luckey flux density, gauss charts, excetera would be most helpful.…

I got this from over at Sound Domain. Ben Milne is getting together a bunch of woofers and testing them. So far SS's RL-P is going to be a part of the lineup. Here's the thread. http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php...43&page=1&pp=10 Honestly, Ben is saying the upper echelon of subwoofers. The driver to fill the space in such a testing environment should be the LMT enabled RL-S. I really hope that the RL-S gets in the testing and not the RL-P. If Ben decides he won't let it fly because it's not out at this very moment he's going to be missing out on testing something that is sure to be well talked about in the future.

Well im pretty much stuck between either the rli-10s or the rlp12s. I was just wondering if the 12s would be too big to put in my ext dime? I want a good mix of SQ and power without having to put in bulletproof glass. I have an amp picked out for the 10s, a pheonix gold x600.1 but I dont know what I would power the 12s with if i decide to go the route. Thanks.

I was in the middle of insulting the spam bot, and a mod deleted the thread. It was going to be epic in a stereotypical white boy way.

Hey guys, new here. I've been looking to buy a subwoofer for my vehicle (a subaru Forester), and I thought I had decided on a JL 10w6v2, but I don't really want to spend that much on a driver, and I wasn't sure it was the best bang for the buck. I stumbled accross soundsplinter while browsing a few audio forums, and I noticed their generally favorable reviews. I did some research on the site, and saw that these drivers were supplied (or at least the motors) by TC-Sounds. Owning and SVS 25-31 PCi myself, and having a friend who owns a PC PLUS with a TC-Sounds driver, I am well aware of the quality of these drivers. Here's my question. I was wondering if the RL-i 10 wou…

What would the Rms rating for the 18 in the optimal box specs be? and is the rating conservative? like could i be putting 1300 into it without worries?

I posted a topic on box suggestions a few months back. Well, it is finally done! Very impressed with soundsplinter!!!!! pics are here: PICS

Hope you have a good birthday. (well tomorrow).

First off, I currently have one in a ported box in my truck. I've never owned a sealed box, so I don't know what to expect. I can get 9.5cubes total (before displacement) for the subs. They will be pushed by 2 Infinity 1211a's (one to each). So my question is............ Will I be happy??? I know this is a silly question, and one that really can't be answered till I build it, lol. But it never hurts to try.

what are the excursion limits on my rl-p 15? i wouldnt mind knowing for when im letting it wang to keep it on the safe side.

I am currently runnign 2 13kv2's sealed with about 450 per sub. I metered it at about 132 in the trunk of my Altima. i am wanting more output and am lookign at goign with 2 12RL-ps in a ported box with about 700 per sub. Will I see a noticable difference in output? Just wondering if spending the $450 bucks for new subs will be worth it.

I bought 2 15" RLP D4's a couple months ago and finished installing them in my Nissan Titan last weekend. The subs and ports are both firing upward in the cab. I have them hooked up to an elemental designs ed 9.1 amp at 1 ohm. I set the gains using a -3dB 50hz sine wave and set the output to 34.64 VAC which equates to 1200watts. The subs are in separate 2.75ft ported boxes tuned to 29Hz with 30 square inches of port area. The problem I am having is the subs dont get loud at all even though they have alot of excursion. My brothers system (in an S-10) which is 2 old sounstream spl 12's in sealed enlosures running off of a kicker kx350 blows mine away. I have an Alpi…

OK, I know ported would be most peoples choice, lol. Here's the thing. I can get 8.5cubes if I keep the box below the window & seat line. That is ideally what I would love to have. That would be enough to go sealed with my 2 RL-p 18"s. My problem is, I know how I am with my bass, and I don't know if I'm going to be satisfied with a sealed box. The only way I could do a ported box is by doing a wall. I can get more than 18cubes if I went that way. My problem with that is, I like looking out my back window, lol. Not to mention that in competitions it puts me in a higher class. I don't want that either, lol. I know I'm being difficult here, but I figured I would ask just…

what is rl-p short for?

I have been learning to use winisd beta, and it is really strange how the rlp models. it suggests like a .4 cube box with a port freq of 38hz. When i punch in 2 cubes at 28, it has an odd peak very low, and is like 2-3db down as the freq increases. Conversely, i also have an ED 13ov.2, and it models quite linearly in similar boxes. ( i have run them both in the same box, and they do sound quite similar) any ideas?

Yes, after an ENTIRE day of waiting it arrived Don't you jsut hate those long waits. I can't wait to get it installed and finally hear what it sounds like. All I know so far is that it is sexy as hell and soundsplinter has the best customer service ever.

I installed the subs tonight and wired them to my MMATS class D amp. I must say these play quite LOW for 8's! I did not have much of a chance to adjust parametric EQ settings or gain. I figure that I was able to only feed 1/3 to 1/2 of total power into the subs tonight. At this level they played quite loud and tight. I was also made aware that the electrical system in my Toyota Matrix is not up to the task as my lights dimmed during the hard hits. I could only imagine what will happen when I set the system up properly! As a recap, I am running a pair of RL-i8's in a sealed enclosure with a total volume of .828 cu^f after sub displacement. I added 1 pound of polyfill to b…

Hey guys, new to the forum. The rl-p 12 looks like a good product and i m interested in running one sub sealed. i have a brutus 1500d, can run it at (1500@1ohm, 1000@2ohms). Any reccomendations on box sizes and what ohm i should run my amp at?

hey, i have asked mike for help multiple times, and his customer service is top notch. I wanted to see what others were doing with their 12 rl-p's as far as box size and tuning. My first box was around 1.6 at 33, and it hit hard, was fairly linear, and went pretty low. It didn't have as much port area as needed, and so i built a new box. New box is 1.9 net ported at 29.5 hz with 26 sq. in. of port area. This box hits very low, and is very clean, but i lost what seems to be a 30-40hz range of any impactful bass from say 80hz down to 50 or so. It isn't hitting many of the notes it used to in the other box, but when it gets low, it shakes the whole car. So, low is grea…

The following clip is of an RL-i12 driver inside a 1.2 cu ft net volume sealed enclosure, driven by a 500watt Bash plate amp. Song being played is a rap run known as "Ain't Nothin' But a G-Thang" by Snoop 'n Dr. Dre. Nearly went deaf recording this video (note to self, wear ear plugs when you're sitting right next to a loud woofer ). Just figured I'd throw this one up here to dissuade the fears of those who might think the RL-p is the only worthy contender from SoundSplinter Broadband .avi Clip with sound: ~9 MB Dialup .wmv Clip with NO sound: ~1 MB *Note: I'd suggest right-clicking the boradband link and 'Saving Target As..' since playing the file directly with Windo…

I'm looking to get a Rl-p 18 by the end of the summer and wanted to know what is the recommended/optimum port area suggested for it...figured I'd go ahead and play with some box designs

I CUT PASTE THIS FROM ANOTHER FORUM, is1pimp is the reviewer? look like he got what he wanted? Amp is a Nine.1 and the box is a 1.0 cubic ft sealed enclosure. I had the RL-P in it for about a week, and the XXX just got put in today, and here are my findings. These two subwoofers are completely not in the same league as eachother, maybe in SQ they are, but thats about it. The guy that wrote the other writeup comparing the RL-P to the XXX and saying the RL-P almost got as loud, and was the better choice has to be completely insane (no offense to whoever wrote that review ). Or the only explanation is he used 750 watt, and i am using 1200 watts, so i guess before 750 watts,…

Greetings all! After a couple of weeks wading through our terribly disjointed website code to refresh our look and improve the ability to add future content, the streamlined design is finally back online. A week of jury duty in between didn't help matters progress on my intended time table, but things are finally stackin' up and business is back on track. Check out the new WebSite (feedback appreciated!) RL-p18 now available in both dual 4 and dual 2 ohm Price reduced on our RL-s12 from $499 to $449 ($409 per unit when ordering two or more) TeamToxicBass is using our RL-i8 drivers for ongoing promotion: Check out Project Hellboy Just wanted to keep the loyal fans (a…

Hey guys, I'm new to this site. I'm about to buy an RL-P 12, but I'm not sure whether to get the D4 or the D2. What's the difference? Does my car have anything to do with it? If it does, I drive a 2000 Toyota Camry. Also, the amplifier that was recommended to me is this one = Audiobahn A8000T, is that a good choice? Also, I need a box for it, what would be a good box to get? Is it hard to build one? Thanks a lot guys, Chris