SoundSplinter

Click the image below for the VIDEO!!! Enjoy.

i'm getting my car in a coulpe a months and i'm getting 2 rlp12" and will a Lanzar Max Pro 2400 watts amp be good or should i get a better amp and will the speakers handle a lanzar max pro 4000 watt amp need help

Well i decided on getting soundsplinter subs. I am either going to be buying a kicker zx750 amp or an alpine pdx 600.1. Would these amps be sufficent? I am leaning towards the kicker since it has more power but i wanted to get some suggestions from mike(i think thats the owner of soundsplinter). I was going to go with a sundown sae-1000 but thats just too much power for me and my stock maxima.

Here's what it says on the site....... Optimal Car: 0.5 cu ft net volume sealed 0.3 cu ft net volume vented, Fb = 35 Hz Is this right, or should it be the other way around? I thought more space was needed per sub when doing a vented box? I may be wrong, but I thought I would ask. Since my wife sub box is 1.3 sealed currently, I could just use a 3" flared port with that same box, and be fine right?

Granted I've ran a lot of tc based product over the years so I'm pretty sure that the P's should handle the power but just wondering a couple of things. First whats the coil in it like winding length and layers if you don't mind and is that the tall profile surround on it? Just wondering because I may be picking up a pair in a couple of months.

I am buying 2 RL-i 8's in the next few days and I'm trying to come up with designs for the new box. I have a 2004 silverado regular cab, with a center console that houses a Fi/SX hybrid right now. Im thinking of the same concept but build the box downfiring and ported. The console would be much bigger than the actual speaker box, I would just have the box built into the bottom part of the console and maybe glass the top following the contour of the seats. The box size would be 25*14.5*10 with a regular L-port. The total cubic foot after port and speaker displacement should be roughly 1.2 ft^3 tuned to 35 Hz. Is that too big for these subs? Any ideas for a box design …

Any idea when the dual 4 ohm 8's will be available for sale again??

I'm thinking about replicating the sub enclosure created by Jmelan over at DIY mobile audio for my 2002 4Runner. Does anyone foresee any difficulties or performance issues for the RL-i8 with this type of enclosure in a side-firing alignment? I wonder if a larger driver (Fi Q 10/12, ICON 10/12, RL-i10) wouldn't be in my best interests.

I was looking at the enclosure recommendations for the Rlp-18 and I was wondering, If I had enough room for an enclosure that was 26'^3 for a pair of rlp-18's would it be to big for the subs? What would the response be like I want it loud, with an 18 I know it will get low. with an enclosure that large where should it be tuned, around 30hz or lower?

I was just looking at the specs on the rl-i 10 on the SS website, and was wondering if was a typo on the rec. enclosure. Website says .45 vented and .65 sealed? and also the rl-i 8 vented is smaller than the sealed... is that right or what? or what are some boxes yall have used for either driver in any application?

They will be in a sealed box with .65 cu ft net vol. What amps will do these bad boys justice??? I am a noob and I am just learning... Thanks

I ported the box, and headed out to a local show today. First run was a 137.2. After that I tweaked the amp, and moved the box around for the second run. We came in second place with a 139.6. Keep in mind, this is with 2 Sound Splinters 8" & a Directed 1500D. Here's a pic (Amy Cano). I took this cause I couldn't stay for the cirts to be handed out.

Does anyone know how to clean the cones on the new RLP-15's without tarnishing the logo? I've just received a couple of new drivers from Mike and after touching the cones, I'm leaving marks on them. I tried wiping with a dry cloth but it seems to make them worse. I'm leaving a dust trail where I wipe. Thanks in advance..... Mike I just heard from Mike @ SoundSplinter and thought some of you may benefit from his reply: On cleaning the cone, I would suggest dampening a cloth with a bit of water and wiping in a spiral motion around the entire cone to clean it. For stubborn stains, you could first dampen the cloth with armor-all and wipe in a circular motion, followed…

OK whipped up an idea for my regular cab truck... I have a sealed box right now but I'm contemplating going ported. Specs: 16.25 in^2 of port area.. 60in. port length .67 ft^3 for the woofer That should put it tuned at 32hz, according to the calculator I used online. The port is facing the passenger side of the cab, sub firing forward. Lemme know what you think. Too many bends in the tube? Too high of tuning for good sq? Not enough port surface area? Would I get alot of port noise? I seem to remember talking to Mike in an email and he said 14 in^2 was all I needed for port area. I really dont know how its possible to tune a ported enclosure to the specs that are on SS's …

I am about to get ahold of a Rockford 1501bd which puts out 1500 watts @ 2 ohms...I was just wondering if this would be too much power for the 18" RL-P? I have heard the rating of 1,000 watts is very conservative..

Hey guys. The unusual T/S parameters and technology in the RL-S woofers have really peaked my interest in them. I've done a bit of research and I'm really considering them for use in car. The high QTS and high FS (especially of the 12 inch version) makes it look like these woofers would start to roll off right around where a cars transfer function would start to kick in. The tiny vas also makes achieving "true" IB easier than some woofers with vas ratings in the hundreds. Along with IB, I'm considering a sealed alignment because woofer performance wouldn't be affected by whats in my trunk. The problem with this is the box requirements are so huge (as per them T/S pa…

Has anyone gotten their rlp18s metered yet?

hey guys! My job is being great and allowing me to use the shop to build a box this saturday! I plan to finally FINISH my trunk! As in finish, i mean, 2 amps, a battery, anbd my current sub box are free floating in my trunk X_X So with this opportunity i can build a box to specifications. Right now its(rl-p 15 btw) in a sealed box somewhere under 2 cu ft, not sure exactly. The site says optimal 3 cu ft. Now here is the question, should i stay sealed and build a box to specs, or should i go ported? I enjoy the balance my subwoofer gives me now, hits the lows, and also extends a bit into the top end to help out my AA mids (80-100). So i would like all the SS fans opinions o…

I'm keeping my 18", and starting on another box for it this weekend. My max dementions are 17" tall-38"wide-25" deep. That gives me just over 7.5cubes to play with. I'm going ported, and I was just trying to figure out what would be best; flaired or slotted?

Don't tell the Fi folks I am thinking of moving away from my 15" BL...lol I've been doing my research on 8" subs, and I think I kinda settled on the RL-i8s. I am thinking of a pair of 8s dual 4ohm, wired for a final load of 4ohm for daily driving so the amp will put out about 750watts at 4ohm. The amp is a RFT10001BD. Do you think both of those subs can handle a total of 1500watts@1ohm? I guess for burps and bass race? How would the subs like it in a ported box at lets say 1.6cuft tuned to 32-35hz? I want to choose this sub over the Kicker L7 8", just because I don't like mainstream subwoofers. And this way I can gain my trunk space back and spare tire!!! That …

I can't seem to track down the "PE grille" that I've seen in a few posts. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks, -J.

Just wondering if you guys sell recone kits for this woofer? I have a chance to pick up one pretty cheap that needs a recone and thought it would be a good sub to have.

I discovered by accident that Fast Reducer (painting supply) will remove the Logo from the subs very easy. I was using it to clean one since I got some overspray on it. The logo just wiped right off! Thats good for me, since one of mine has a logo and the other don't. Now they both don't LOL

First off, does such a thing exist? I've been out of car audio for ~15 years and am just now getting interested again thanks to my recently purchased 2002 Toyota 4Runner. The stock stereo is such a flake, particularly with the sunroof and windows open. I've been scouring the internet trying to get up to speed on the current technologies and find out which products would be the best value for a modest SQ system. I originally purchased a set of Polk components but am about to return them after hearing a set of Focals. Although I have plenty of space for something monstrous, this is my daily driver which doubles as a two-child-car-seat chaeuffeur. Keeping the cargo ar…

i am looking for an amp to power my rl-s 12. i had the kicker sx900.1 bridged but it ain't working out for me. so i moved that amp to my components and i borrowed my friend's jl 1000/1 for now. it hits nice and clean. but i want a little more power. here are some amps i was thinking of........ mmats 2100.2 1550wrms @ 2ohms kicker zx1500 1500wrms @ 2ohms jl 1000/1 1000wrms @ 1.5-4ohms kicker zx2500.1 2500wrms @ 2ohms (not sure if i want to run that much power) are their any other amps that will work perfectly with this sub?