SoundSplinter

Granted I've ran a lot of tc based product over the years so I'm pretty sure that the P's should handle the power but just wondering a couple of things. First whats the coil in it like winding length and layers if you don't mind and is that the tall profile surround on it? Just wondering because I may be picking up a pair in a couple of months.

I'm thinking about replicating the sub enclosure created by Jmelan over at DIY mobile audio for my 2002 4Runner. Does anyone foresee any difficulties or performance issues for the RL-i8 with this type of enclosure in a side-firing alignment? I wonder if a larger driver (Fi Q 10/12, ICON 10/12, RL-i10) wouldn't be in my best interests.

Okay..i've read alot of the posts concerning the SS RL-i8's...i love them...i want 8 of them in my 07 ranger....questions are What material is the Magnet Made of...What is the Voice Coil made of...What is the best sealed size for max SPL output, and can they handle the power from two RF T15001 amps at one ohm......also when/where can i buy them...the site says there out of stock....

I am buying 2 RL-i 8's in the next few days and I'm trying to come up with designs for the new box. I have a 2004 silverado regular cab, with a center console that houses a Fi/SX hybrid right now. Im thinking of the same concept but build the box downfiring and ported. The console would be much bigger than the actual speaker box, I would just have the box built into the bottom part of the console and maybe glass the top following the contour of the seats. The box size would be 25*14.5*10 with a regular L-port. The total cubic foot after port and speaker displacement should be roughly 1.2 ft^3 tuned to 35 Hz. Is that too big for these subs? Any ideas for a box design …

Does anyone know how to clean the cones on the new RLP-15's without tarnishing the logo? I've just received a couple of new drivers from Mike and after touching the cones, I'm leaving marks on them. I tried wiping with a dry cloth but it seems to make them worse. I'm leaving a dust trail where I wipe. Thanks in advance..... Mike I just heard from Mike @ SoundSplinter and thought some of you may benefit from his reply: On cleaning the cone, I would suggest dampening a cloth with a bit of water and wiping in a spiral motion around the entire cone to clean it. For stubborn stains, you could first dampen the cloth with armor-all and wipe in a circular motion, followed…

Here's what it says on the site....... Optimal Car: 0.5 cu ft net volume sealed 0.3 cu ft net volume vented, Fb = 35 Hz Is this right, or should it be the other way around? I thought more space was needed per sub when doing a vented box? I may be wrong, but I thought I would ask. Since my wife sub box is 1.3 sealed currently, I could just use a 3" flared port with that same box, and be fine right?

Well I talked her into going with me, and entering her first comp today. Her setup is 2 RL-i 8" sealed (1.3cubes) with a Directed 1500D. A TL mic was used, sealed at the dash she put up a 135.8. She's now decided that she wants a ported box, lol.

Any idea when the dual 4 ohm 8's will be available for sale again??

Hey guys. The unusual T/S parameters and technology in the RL-S woofers have really peaked my interest in them. I've done a bit of research and I'm really considering them for use in car. The high QTS and high FS (especially of the 12 inch version) makes it look like these woofers would start to roll off right around where a cars transfer function would start to kick in. The tiny vas also makes achieving "true" IB easier than some woofers with vas ratings in the hundreds. Along with IB, I'm considering a sealed alignment because woofer performance wouldn't be affected by whats in my trunk. The problem with this is the box requirements are so huge (as per them T/S pa…

Don't tell the Fi folks I am thinking of moving away from my 15" BL...lol I've been doing my research on 8" subs, and I think I kinda settled on the RL-i8s. I am thinking of a pair of 8s dual 4ohm, wired for a final load of 4ohm for daily driving so the amp will put out about 750watts at 4ohm. The amp is a RFT10001BD. Do you think both of those subs can handle a total of 1500watts@1ohm? I guess for burps and bass race? How would the subs like it in a ported box at lets say 1.6cuft tuned to 32-35hz? I want to choose this sub over the Kicker L7 8", just because I don't like mainstream subwoofers. And this way I can gain my trunk space back and spare tire!!! That …

hey guys! My job is being great and allowing me to use the shop to build a box this saturday! I plan to finally FINISH my trunk! As in finish, i mean, 2 amps, a battery, anbd my current sub box are free floating in my trunk X_X So with this opportunity i can build a box to specifications. Right now its(rl-p 15 btw) in a sealed box somewhere under 2 cu ft, not sure exactly. The site says optimal 3 cu ft. Now here is the question, should i stay sealed and build a box to specs, or should i go ported? I enjoy the balance my subwoofer gives me now, hits the lows, and also extends a bit into the top end to help out my AA mids (80-100). So i would like all the SS fans opinions o…

I'm keeping my 18", and starting on another box for it this weekend. My max dementions are 17" tall-38"wide-25" deep. That gives me just over 7.5cubes to play with. I'm going ported, and I was just trying to figure out what would be best; flaired or slotted?

I can't seem to track down the "PE grille" that I've seen in a few posts. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks, -J.

I discovered by accident that Fast Reducer (painting supply) will remove the Logo from the subs very easy. I was using it to clean one since I got some overspray on it. The logo just wiped right off! Thats good for me, since one of mine has a logo and the other don't. Now they both don't LOL

Just wondering if you guys sell recone kits for this woofer? I have a chance to pick up one pretty cheap that needs a recone and thought it would be a good sub to have.

i am looking for an amp to power my rl-s 12. i had the kicker sx900.1 bridged but it ain't working out for me. so i moved that amp to my components and i borrowed my friend's jl 1000/1 for now. it hits nice and clean. but i want a little more power. here are some amps i was thinking of........ mmats 2100.2 1550wrms @ 2ohms kicker zx1500 1500wrms @ 2ohms jl 1000/1 1000wrms @ 1.5-4ohms kicker zx2500.1 2500wrms @ 2ohms (not sure if i want to run that much power) are their any other amps that will work perfectly with this sub?

Hey, Ok RL-i8 Sealed In My 97 Reg Cab Dakota I was going to go ported but Im going to be adding more amps & doing an active setup I was going to put 360x1 to the RL-i8 ported 1.2^ @35Hz Here's the deal.. Im going to move from one shop to a new shop the new one dose not sell Arc So I will be running Zapco I like'em better anyway.. Zapco Refrence 350.2 on the Sub(350x1@4Ohms) Zapco Refrence 350.2 On The Mids (100x2@4Ohms) Zapco 200.2 On the tweeters (50x2) But now Im looking at 350w sealed.. what do you think will it be good, great or outstanding? Or is it a Bad idea.. Lookin at just under 1^ The pic is from the drivers seat.. Here's the deal.. Im going to move …

I am about to get ahold of a Rockford 1501bd which puts out 1500 watts @ 2 ohms...I was just wondering if this would be too much power for the 18" RL-P? I have heard the rating of 1,000 watts is very conservative..

First off, does such a thing exist? I've been out of car audio for ~15 years and am just now getting interested again thanks to my recently purchased 2002 Toyota 4Runner. The stock stereo is such a flake, particularly with the sunroof and windows open. I've been scouring the internet trying to get up to speed on the current technologies and find out which products would be the best value for a modest SQ system. I originally purchased a set of Polk components but am about to return them after hearing a set of Focals. Although I have plenty of space for something monstrous, this is my daily driver which doubles as a two-child-car-seat chaeuffeur. Keeping the cargo ar…

According to the website: Optimal Car: 0.65 cu ft net volume sealed 0.55 cu ft net volume vented, Fb = 32 Hz Is this right? This is the first time I see a vented box with a smaller net volume then a sealed box. If I end up with a RLi-10 and go with a ported box tuned to 32 Hz, the net volume would be about 0.8 ft^3. How would having a larger net volume effect the sound of the sub? And one more question to the actual Sound Splinter guys. Can you tell me what the shipping cost of a RLi-10 to zip code 96819 (Honolulu, Hawaii). EDIT: I just notice this on the same page: Acceptable: 0.4 -…

I'm going to be purchasing Sound Splinter RLP's here soon, to upgrade from my current 2 12" Kicker CVR's (03 model) and this time around, I'm looking for 100% more SQ while still getting fairly loud. I heard great things about these subs and how great their SQ is, which got me wanting to check these out. My amp is a JBL GTO1201.1, 787rms @ 4ohms and 1114rms @ 2ohms. If I went with 2 12's, I wouldn't be able to power them properly, but if I got a single 15" I think 1114rms would be perfect. I'm going for a sealed enclosure for either sub (I don't mind ported, I'm just a bigger fan of sealed) Now, after switching from 2 SPL subs, I'm afraid I'd be disappointed in output wit…

Well the topic pretty much sums it up. After having (2) RL-P 12" in a car for several years I have decided to put the subs inside the house. This frees up the space restrictions, and I have been enticed to build a ported box. So with all the experience most of you guys have on this board, I would appreciate some feedback or advice on building a ported box. Here is some info about what i got/need -I listen to mainly rap/R&B -Would like a strong balance between Home Theatre Use and Music listening -I will be using a EP2500 Amplifier (This gives me 500 watts if I run it at 8 ohms or 1200 watts if i choose to run it at 2 ohm) I would prefer to run it off 8 ohms and r…

i want to know how everyone that has a rl-s is running their subs. like what are your box specs and how much power are you giving it or them? i just ordered the rl-s 12 and i will be using a kicker sx900.1 to power the sub. not sure on the box specs yet. it will be sealed for sure though. before i start on my box build, i just want to know what kinda box everyone with the rl-s is using.

whats the max box size for the 10? i was thinking 1-1.5@30 is it the same for the 8?

Hey, i currently have my box in about 1.6 cubes to low 30's, and Mike told me that 2cubes net at 34 would give me more output. I want to make sure i won't lose SQ, but i might give this a try. Will i gain much output with this change? Will i still have excellent SQ? I searched a ton on here and caraudio.com and read up on ports, square inches of port area, etc, and i used various calculators. I used the calc on maximacar.com, which is the best i have seen. The box dimensions are: 24x14.5x15 with a 4 inch by 11" port. The calculator takes into account woofer displacement and displacement of the port, and it comes out to 2.29gross, and 2.06 net. With the box being 1…