SoundSplinter

Hey guys, I don't like my current box so i'm thinking about making another one. My current one is about 2.6ft^3 @ ~32, and the one I want to make is 2ft^3 @ 29 ^^ Thats the one I'd be building. From the free box plans at Caraudio.com . Would it be worth enough of my time to make a new box? The one I have is too big I think.

Greetings all! After a couple of weeks wading through our terribly disjointed website code to refresh our look and improve the ability to add future content, the streamlined design is finally back online. A week of jury duty in between didn't help matters progress on my intended time table, but things are finally stackin' up and business is back on track. Check out the new WebSite (feedback appreciated!) RL-p18 now available in both dual 4 and dual 2 ohm Price reduced on our RL-s12 from $499 to $449 ($409 per unit when ordering two or more) TeamToxicBass is using our RL-i8 drivers for ongoing promotion: Check out Project Hellboy Just wanted to keep the loyal fans (a…

hi i am interested about RL_p18subwoofer. i use from earthquake ph5000 amplifire. is rl p18 compatible with 2000w in a minute? is rl p18 tolerate high power in a minute? how much watt is tolerable for rl p18 at a time? this is image of my system for now : My link

is that to much for the 8's 2 cubic ft at 34 hz. if not which amp would you guys recommend http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/ported...mp;Fs=&CE=0

Hey guys, I'm new to this site. I'm about to buy an RL-P 12, but I'm not sure whether to get the D4 or the D2. What's the difference? Does my car have anything to do with it? If it does, I drive a 2000 Toyota Camry. Also, the amplifier that was recommended to me is this one = Audiobahn A8000T, is that a good choice? Also, I need a box for it, what would be a good box to get? Is it hard to build one? Thanks a lot guys, Chris

I bought 2 15" RLP D4's a couple months ago and finished installing them in my Nissan Titan last weekend. The subs and ports are both firing upward in the cab. I have them hooked up to an elemental designs ed 9.1 amp at 1 ohm. I set the gains using a -3dB 50hz sine wave and set the output to 34.64 VAC which equates to 1200watts. The subs are in separate 2.75ft ported boxes tuned to 29Hz with 30 square inches of port area. The problem I am having is the subs dont get loud at all even though they have alot of excursion. My brothers system (in an S-10) which is 2 old sounstream spl 12's in sealed enlosures running off of a kicker kx350 blows mine away. I have an Alpi…

I CUT PASTE THIS FROM ANOTHER FORUM, is1pimp is the reviewer? look like he got what he wanted? Amp is a Nine.1 and the box is a 1.0 cubic ft sealed enclosure. I had the RL-P in it for about a week, and the XXX just got put in today, and here are my findings. These two subwoofers are completely not in the same league as eachother, maybe in SQ they are, but thats about it. The guy that wrote the other writeup comparing the RL-P to the XXX and saying the RL-P almost got as loud, and was the better choice has to be completely insane (no offense to whoever wrote that review ). Or the only explanation is he used 750 watt, and i am using 1200 watts, so i guess before 750 watts,…

Is the RL-P a good speaker to use in a SPL competition? I need some information about what size box and port area I need to use. Thanks alot

I had only tried one RL-p 12 in my truck, due to enclosure size limitations, so the second one has been sitting on a shelf calling my name since the group buy last year. I finally decided to build a box for both of them which is 1.60 CF net with 1.5 pounds of polyfill and downfired. That is the largest enclosure that will fit. While 0.80 net per sub is well under the optimum size, the subs still sound surprisingly good. To test the box I used my usual selection of the IASCA test disk, test tones off EMNB, some Dave Matthews Band and a little Van Morrison. I am incredibly impressed with the RL-p and find it to be one of the best sounding subs before you even begin the…

Going to be building my enclosure soon for my babys and was wondering should I use 3/4 MDF wood or 1" MDF? They will be sealed 1.5 cubes each powered by a US Amps MD2...

I was just looking at the specs on the rl-i 10 on the SS website, and was wondering if was a typo on the rec. enclosure. Website says .45 vented and .65 sealed? and also the rl-i 8 vented is smaller than the sealed... is that right or what? or what are some boxes yall have used for either driver in any application?

Hello, First off I really like this product line it basically is an improvement on my favorite subs off all time the Audiomobile EVO-R 15. Anyways I was just wondering if you are still sourcing product from tc sounds some how of if you have your own tooling etc. Just wondering hope this isn't against any rules or anything

2 ft^3 tuned to 28Hz with 30 in^2 of port area. Never took any pics of the build though Click on the pic for a bigger one. Still needs to be sanded off and finished. Used a mixture of glue and MDF dust to seal it up, works great, and so easy to sand. Need to fill the screw holes, and cover. This might turn into just a test mule box, not sure yet what I want to do yet. Here is the box design (Excel spreadsheet): Click Here Pr0n available soon.

I am currently in the mood to upgrade my system. Partly because i blew my amp and partly cuz i have add and i've had my current setup for over a year now. but anyways i was thinking of gettin a Rl-p 15 and an nine.1 to push it and droppin it in a 2.5 cuft box after displacement tuned to 25 hertz. what do you guys think. Or schould i wait and look at the lmt drivers?

OK, I finally had the new 12" RL-p installed into the Audi A6 wagon last week...and I was very disappointed (and mad) when I listened to it. I took it to a decent shop and had a 4 gauge amp kit run to the back of the wagon. I built the box myself, and it turned out very nice. I posted pictures a week or two ago. It is a sealed 1.4 cu ft box. The amp is a cadence 600x1 at 2 ohm (model A5+HC). I bought a Navone Engineering NE-7V LOC, which is supposed to be the best available. When I entered the car for the first time, I was shocked at how bad and quiet the sub sounded. From reading posts here, my hopes were through the roof. However, I was really let down. I am p…

I have asked about TL's in the past with little success, I would love to try the 8 in a TL or Snail Shell box, a sub that beefy in a really nice box could work some magic, and since it needs a larger box the 8 would be the best choice for me to start with unless I could try a rl-i 10 with that design (note: my initial attempt was to put eclipse alum 10's in a double shot style box but never could nail down plans)

but I am not at liberty to say yet, I would rather Mike release the news himself, its top secret but the inside word is great, def a nice improvement on the SS subs

Mike, whats the possibility of an RL-p 8? I imagine its been discussed before. Probably not enough demand for 8s to warrant having two lines competing with each other. On another OT note to save topic space...anyone actually running the RL-p 18s in car yet? I loved my 15s to death, 2.75 ported was incredible -- just amazing for a 15 to work so well in that size box.

Someone on another forum is building me a box for 90 shipped and I was wondering if the specs he gave me will be alright? Thanks!! 38" width and 16" height so that your box fits flush with the sides and top of your trunk... The depth comes out to 17"... which makes your net volume 3 cubic feet after driver and port displacements. your port is 3" wide, 14.4" high (making port area 43.5") and 43" long (this is VERY long but makes your tuning 28, which will sound amazing)

So I got an RL-p 18 off a guy on ROE. Decided to try my hand at building a box myself this time. The box is Approximately 6.2 cubic feet net ported to about 27 hertz. I say approximate because it has curved boards and I didn't bother busting out those formulas... So here's some pics. The funny part is, what I thought is/was the toughest part, the curved flares, came out way better than I had hoped they would let alone thought they would. I did the math, drew out where they should end up, then had a friend help me bend them (2 hands simply wasn't enough) and they ended up spot on. All my other easy cuts? Typically a blade's width off.. made for some interesting clamping …

just wanna say nioce, im diggin the whole new cone look. the graphic looks great on the annondized(spelling) cone. havent been here in quite a while. anyways i was just curious how the site was doing im still a loyal SS fan! might pick another one up this summer =D anyways glad to still see the forums alive!

i recently bought another sound splinter rl-s. i have both of them in a 4 cuft sealed box powered by a mmats d3500.1. they sound awesome. what else is awesome is that i asked mike if he could personally delivered the sub to me and he did. when he brought the sub i was like damn i got my sub delivered by the owner of the company. how awesome is that. lol. anyways my car sounds awesome and i will have vids soon.

Okay..i've read alot of the posts concerning the SS RL-i8's...i love them...i want 8 of them in my 07 ranger....questions are What material is the Magnet Made of...What is the Voice Coil made of...What is the best sealed size for max SPL output, and can they handle the power from two RF T15001 amps at one ohm......also when/where can i buy them...the site says there out of stock....

I've decided if I can keep from having to make a wall to fit them both I would rather go that route. I should be getting my truck back here shortly. Then I can start on the box for the 2 18"s. They'll be pushed by an Orion 2500D. I had a plan made up to do a 4th order box in a wall, but I would rather not do a wall if I can get away with it. What would be the smallest sealed box I could do per sub?

I just recently purchased 4 RLP 15's. This is my first SoundSplinter purchase. I bought the dual 4 ohm version. I have a enclosure built that is 13.14 cubic feet NET volume.All 4 subs share the same 13.14 cubic foot chamber. The port is 6x 24 with a length of 18" tuning it to roughly 31.5 hz. These will be fed by a hifonics colossus. My options are to give each sub 750 watts each or 600 watts each. With each sub seeing 3.2 feet will I be over powering them?? Any suggestions would be helpful. I can easily slug the box if needed. Also, any thoughts on all 4 subs all sharing the same air space? This is for a LSQ daily driver with a emphasis on lower octaves. "I mainly listen…