SoundSplinter

I had only tried one RL-p 12 in my truck, due to enclosure size limitations, so the second one has been sitting on a shelf calling my name since the group buy last year. I finally decided to build a box for both of them which is 1.60 CF net with 1.5 pounds of polyfill and downfired. That is the largest enclosure that will fit. While 0.80 net per sub is well under the optimum size, the subs still sound surprisingly good. To test the box I used my usual selection of the IASCA test disk, test tones off EMNB, some Dave Matthews Band and a little Van Morrison. I am incredibly impressed with the RL-p and find it to be one of the best sounding subs before you even begin the…

Hey guys, I don't like my current box so i'm thinking about making another one. My current one is about 2.6ft^3 @ ~32, and the one I want to make is 2ft^3 @ 29 ^^ Thats the one I'd be building. From the free box plans at Caraudio.com . Would it be worth enough of my time to make a new box? The one I have is too big I think.

I am currently runnign 2 13kv2's sealed with about 450 per sub. I metered it at about 132 in the trunk of my Altima. i am wanting more output and am lookign at goign with 2 12RL-ps in a ported box with about 700 per sub. Will I see a noticable difference in output? Just wondering if spending the $450 bucks for new subs will be worth it.

Hey guys, I'm new to this site. I'm about to buy an RL-P 12, but I'm not sure whether to get the D4 or the D2. What's the difference? Does my car have anything to do with it? If it does, I drive a 2000 Toyota Camry. Also, the amplifier that was recommended to me is this one = Audiobahn A8000T, is that a good choice? Also, I need a box for it, what would be a good box to get? Is it hard to build one? Thanks a lot guys, Chris

what is rl-p short for?

Mike, whats the possibility of an RL-p 8? I imagine its been discussed before. Probably not enough demand for 8s to warrant having two lines competing with each other. On another OT note to save topic space...anyone actually running the RL-p 18s in car yet? I loved my 15s to death, 2.75 ported was incredible -- just amazing for a 15 to work so well in that size box.

is that to much for the 8's 2 cubic ft at 34 hz. if not which amp would you guys recommend http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/ported...mp;Fs=&CE=0

Hey guys, new here. I've been looking to buy a subwoofer for my vehicle (a subaru Forester), and I thought I had decided on a JL 10w6v2, but I don't really want to spend that much on a driver, and I wasn't sure it was the best bang for the buck. I stumbled accross soundsplinter while browsing a few audio forums, and I noticed their generally favorable reviews. I did some research on the site, and saw that these drivers were supplied (or at least the motors) by TC-Sounds. Owning and SVS 25-31 PCi myself, and having a friend who owns a PC PLUS with a TC-Sounds driver, I am well aware of the quality of these drivers. Here's my question. I was wondering if the RL-i 10 wou…

I CUT PASTE THIS FROM ANOTHER FORUM, is1pimp is the reviewer? look like he got what he wanted? Amp is a Nine.1 and the box is a 1.0 cubic ft sealed enclosure. I had the RL-P in it for about a week, and the XXX just got put in today, and here are my findings. These two subwoofers are completely not in the same league as eachother, maybe in SQ they are, but thats about it. The guy that wrote the other writeup comparing the RL-P to the XXX and saying the RL-P almost got as loud, and was the better choice has to be completely insane (no offense to whoever wrote that review ). Or the only explanation is he used 750 watt, and i am using 1200 watts, so i guess before 750 watts,…

I want to use 2 RLi 10s in a 1.5 cubic foot net sealed box with 1800 watts RMS power on them @ 1 ohm. Will the subs handle that kind of power being that are only rated at 500 watts RMS? Also, what size voice coil do these subs have? Thanks, Bill

I'm making this thread so that all who bought the rl-s sub(s) and made vids of it can post it here...i'm not sure if i can do this but i'm going to...hopefully this gets pinned somewhere first up is my boy shon over at roe made these vids of the rl-s 15 he recently bought heres the vids the rl-s 15 is in a 5cube sealed box http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/Sou...ter/rls15.2.wmv http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/Sou...ter/rls15.1.wmv Heres jellyfish vids of his rl-s12 in a 6cube ported box tuned@37hz http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/Sou...ter/rls12.2.wmv http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/Sou...ter/rls12.3.wmv And who can 4get mrray who brought us the …

but I am not at liberty to say yet, I would rather Mike release the news himself, its top secret but the inside word is great, def a nice improvement on the SS subs

I've owned my 2 RL-P 12's for over a year now. Although the subs were used when I got them. I've had them in 3 separate cars and in 4 different enclosures. Its hard to describe how much I love these subs, they have a unique sound to them that I just don't want to give up. Right now I have them in a blowthrough style enclosure in a 00 S10 regular cab. The box is 5.1cu ft. tuned to 30hz using 2 aeroports. I'm still using that Hifonics 1600 watt amp, it seems to be about a perfect match in my opinion. My upper stage consists of 2003 era Rockford Fosgate, Fanatic X components. With a RF 300.2 amp. I listen to mostly Metal and Rock. With Rap thrown in when I want to poun…

So I got an RL-p 18 off a guy on ROE. Decided to try my hand at building a box myself this time. The box is Approximately 6.2 cubic feet net ported to about 27 hertz. I say approximate because it has curved boards and I didn't bother busting out those formulas... So here's some pics. The funny part is, what I thought is/was the toughest part, the curved flares, came out way better than I had hoped they would let alone thought they would. I did the math, drew out where they should end up, then had a friend help me bend them (2 hands simply wasn't enough) and they ended up spot on. All my other easy cuts? Typically a blade's width off.. made for some interesting clamping …

I was just looking at the specs on the rl-i 10 on the SS website, and was wondering if was a typo on the rec. enclosure. Website says .45 vented and .65 sealed? and also the rl-i 8 vented is smaller than the sealed... is that right or what? or what are some boxes yall have used for either driver in any application?

Is the RL-P a good speaker to use in a SPL competition? I need some information about what size box and port area I need to use. Thanks alot

This by far is will the biggest cabinet I have ever designed and to be built. The customer is using a RL-s 15 for Home Audio. The cabinet is 29" w x 29" h x 38" d and the entire beast is 1" MDF - Triple Baffled w/ the subwoofer recessed and braced like a solid brick sh!t house. The back of the cabinet is within the interior of the cabinet with a 6" space to the exterior back for mounting an plate amp. The space isolates the plate amp for the enclosure interior. The customer requested the bracing to be pure overkill to deaden the enclosure. A custom grill cover will be done that slips within the recess cutout which the front part of the grill cover will protrude beyond …

Saw a post somewhere saying that RL-i8's were available, or soon to be available. Whats the story?

Going to be building my enclosure soon for my babys and was wondering should I use 3/4 MDF wood or 1" MDF? They will be sealed 1.5 cubes each powered by a US Amps MD2...

i know rl-ps are not for getting loud, but i was curious as to what some of u guys are hitting on the meter with a rl-p 15?

Took a few hours tonight and threw this new box together for my pair of RL-i8s. I think it came together well, won't be able to test it out until the morning. Might run a roundover on the edges, what do you think?

Hey, What are some numbers you guys have been hitting with you Rl-p's.... whether it may be for straight SPL use or just a daily driver and got it metered. I didn't really find any numbers of the Rl-p's and searching didnt help really. If you could, name Car it was in, power, box, and size of Rl-p's.

I bought 2 15" RLP D4's a couple months ago and finished installing them in my Nissan Titan last weekend. The subs and ports are both firing upward in the cab. I have them hooked up to an elemental designs ed 9.1 amp at 1 ohm. I set the gains using a -3dB 50hz sine wave and set the output to 34.64 VAC which equates to 1200watts. The subs are in separate 2.75ft ported boxes tuned to 29Hz with 30 square inches of port area. The problem I am having is the subs dont get loud at all even though they have alot of excursion. My brothers system (in an S-10) which is 2 old sounstream spl 12's in sealed enlosures running off of a kicker kx350 blows mine away. I have an Alpi…

I have a 98 GMC extended cab sierra and Just ordered some new components and will be buying a sub in the next month or 2. I was thinking about the RL-i8 or maybe a 10, I want to go with a sealed box under the rear seat and have a 600w mono amp to run it. Do these subs sound good sealed or should I go a different route? Thanks for any help guys.

I am currently in the mood to upgrade my system. Partly because i blew my amp and partly cuz i have add and i've had my current setup for over a year now. but anyways i was thinking of gettin a Rl-p 15 and an nine.1 to push it and droppin it in a 2.5 cuft box after displacement tuned to 25 hertz. what do you guys think. Or schould i wait and look at the lmt drivers?