US AMPS

Well due to everyone blowing me up here is a sneak preview and pricing just for SSA members. I will be selling these untill they are gone, Everyone of these will have a 1 free recone warranty, but you must pay shipping to and from for the warranty. 12D2 or D4's 219.99 15D2 or D4's 249.99 18D2 or D4's 289.99 These are shipped prices to the continuous 48 states only. D2 or D4's

I have so many US AMPS and I like them a lot. They are loud and shiney and sound great. The plexiglass bottoms are ingenious. They really add to the character of this well built amplifier. Just thought id share. I have been through my fair share of USAMPS. I even have some for sale. Ill be selling them even on this forum after I accumulate 25 posts! What do you guys think of USAMPS? Here are some pics of some of my US AMPS. Beautiful arent they?

Any input on this? Any bench numberson the md3? I can get the MD3 bout $150 cheaper than the Kicker and it would be from an Authorized dealer while the kicker wouldnt be. I plan on running four of either amp each to a 15" hdc3

Consumer came over to pick up his MX15 from repair and wanted to hear the EXPLODER so I gave him the full tilt ride

I recently installed a 1600.2 in a PUG 206 1.6 .Τhe amp was running 8 8" Celestion truvox 8Ω mids. (4 per channel) so the nominal impedance per channel was 2Ω .The amp is a true beast despite the small size.It rocked the mids like hell,but when i turned it off it popped with a quite annoying noise...I checked the wiring,reset the source unit (Alpine CDA 9835) replaced the RCAs, the power/ground cable the speaker cable and retested.Νο improvement .Still the amp kept popping when i turned it off.I raised the impedance to 4Ω/channel and the popping disappeared!Retested again at 2Ω and it came back At one last attempt i swapped the amp with another 1600.2 and it did the sam…

Greetings from europe, We are building the demo car for USAmps and RE for next summer, and we are brainstorming about witch amp's and subs tot put in this car. We where thinking the folloing setups: RE xxx 06 15" X2 RE xxx 06 15" X4 not enough room for a good box RE xxx 06 15" X2 and RE xxx 06 12" X1 SPL and SQ option. Front stage using the AX tube's And the sub's using a couple of AX 2000 or AX 3000DE Wath will rock the show so hard that all heads will turn our way So it has to be loud .....mega loud on music only no pulsing But is also needs to show off some great SQ, so a split system sould be best one QS other SPL (LSQ) sorry for that term but i mean verry…

I hooked them up using the MLT, linked together, and I can not get them to push my 2 AQ HD3's with the same power. I have tried everything I know to tune them but they will not push them with the same authority. I can get them to be working the same on a test tone but whenever I play music the subs do not hit the same frequencies with the same authority. One will hit the low frequencies good and the other will hit the mid to high frequencies better. What is going on? I tried to turn all the gains to the same point but that just makes one sub hit hard and the other one will be lagging. What should I do, I tried to unlink them with the RCA's and have them acting as single a…

I have this amp and it worked well until i let my friend borrow then i got it back and it doesnt produce any sound. The first thing i noticed when i turn it on is that it makes a clicking noise. I know what makes the noise its the black peice in the picture. it powers up but no sound comes out. What is THE piece and has anyone had this problem also is it fixable? I also noticed that if i set the input voltage to 9.6volts it wont make the sound, but when i turn it up above 9.7 it clicks. even at 9.6 volts it won't work. Also it only makes one click like a fuse and makes it when i turn it off. Also the little white thing in between the 2 big black circles, i dont know what…

okay first of all, XT line is available for shipping and the AX line you will have to wait a little bit longer now onto the good stuff, ill let the pictures do the talking: ^^MLT ^^^6 ft amp??? lol --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Has been flawless for over 1.5 yrs till the other day it shut off at low volume level. I only had the car on for 10 min aswell And then the car turned into a BBQ....What in the world happend? Is this fixable? Guess im going to have to talk to Greg I am assuming? These are all the same MOSFET on one side closest to the power imputs This is on the other side halfway on the board

This is the model that has the 3 40 amp blade fuses on it. I was wondering if this amp will do it's rated power of 2000 rms @ a 1 ohm load. Of course I know this is at 14..4 volts just wondering if this amp will do it or not??? I mean the amp does take 1/0 gauge wire and I'm thinking it will draw at least 180 amps em I wrong to think this is true??? Thanks for information in advance and the help... Hawk

lookin fer 70ish x4 @ 4ohms lookin fer 500ish @ 2 ohms and 1000ish @ 1 ohm as small as possible? dunno if thats possible now adays... large power, small foot print, like my rf power series amps... have to be same US Amps series... jeremy... do ur job =D

do the tubes glow when in use? just wondering

I know the I/S line is built in Korea right? And the AX line is US made. I've heard the Merlin line is built in both places(conflicting info) though. Are the Merlins US built or foreign?

I'm trying to find some good photos of recent productions of the XT4000D. Reason being is that I think this guy sold me a counterfeit amp. I'm going to post pictures of this suspect in a few minutes. I was just here hoping to find something that might help me prove this fake. I did at least buy it on my credit card so I'm safe there.

www.myspace.com/us_amps woot! first time doing a myspace...6 freakin hours last night setting it up... i got a blog too check that out.

Are the merlin mono blocks .5 ohm stable?

Anyone know if the RE SX will run 12 - 1500 rms daily?

This place is where im gonna post some up and coming things for USAmps.

well in terms of the class D's....greg just told me that they use the same circuitry as each other. as for the A/B amps, they are totally redesigned, the USacoustics redesign was scrapped, and are now lookin like the old Florida amps. i guess the only difference is the AX line is infinitely strappable. so yea thats GREAT news to hear im thinkin i might go all merlins next.

Does any one know what the real outputs are for the vlx-400 at 1ohms on 14.4 and 16 and can it take 18v? I have one I am either going to use or sale I have had it for sale for sometime but no body buying in this market so I might as well use it. Someone said it needs like 350amps to run good is this also true??

Spy vid. Doing a little over 4K rms I have had it hit 7K but my power supplies are SAGGING and need to have the boss invest in a few more.

Hello guys. Look I am wanting to purchase a Us amp for my Fi BL 15" sub. I need something around 1000-1500 watts rms. i was looking at the xt4000d. Any of you have anymore suggestions?? I will be running the sub at 1 ohm...Please let me know..I want to order the amp today..Thanks

Feeling very proud to use USAMPS ,i just wanted to let everyone know what these amps are capable of...In our SEAT MARBELLA (very much like a Panda)using two USA 6000 and 2 15'' RE AUDIO MTs (2 ohm/coil paralled) driven by one Stinger SP 1700,we hit 158,7 dbs@ 66 HZ, certified in Street max 1-2 class at the 2005 Hellenic Finals.The real crazy thing is that it only took us 2 hours of tuning (we took the first measurement 8 hours before the beginning of the event) to reach that score, so anyone can understand the potential of this setup.... Imagine the score after one month of testing, at the right impedance and at a higher tuning frequency (69 - 71 HZ).......