Automotive and Performance

The car is a 1999 ford contour. I've changed almost the entire front end suspension(outer tie rod ends, sway bars, sway linkages, replaced the strut and springs) and now I think my inner tie rod ends are clunking a bit. I'm just wanting some opinions on if I should try to change them myself or pay a shop to do it. I have the chiltons for my car and all the tools I need, but my dad said he's never changed em so he can't give his honest opinion. Main reason I want to do it my self is the knowledge I'll gain and the money I'll save. The parts about 30 bucks each but to have a shop change them it's gonna run about 200+ each side. Wha do yu guys think

Man the guys over in the VW forums would kill me for spending money on car audio before any performance upgrades, BUT I just got my 10' VW CC R-line and need to break in the engine 1st. HOWEVER this winter when my engine is broken in I am flashing the cars ecu w/a APR Stage 1 flash which will give me 250HP and 294TQ (stock is 200Hp, 207TQ). I will also give the CC a Carbonio Intake which should give me 10+ HP more I believe. Can't wait!

We now have the............yea you know I have no words for this so just check it out. The RIMS J

As ypu guys saw before I wrecked my car. I need to know the quarter panels (outer sheet metal, from door jam along wheel well to bumper) on a 96 Integra, is it welded on, bolted, what? I gotta replace one (maybe both) the these, the hood, the ft. bumper, and quite possibly the raditor, and maybe fan and belts too. Also ALL NEW TIRES Nankang can never be reached and as such i can't get them to pay shit on this. J

Does anybody have any good detailing tips, or products, to get professional results? I detail high end show cars, as well as daily drivers, and I'm always looking for that next best thing to come along. Right now I'm currently using the Greot's Garage, best of show, and boss system, to leave my customers cars with that wet concourse finish. I also use their black shine tire and trim spray to leave all the plastic, and rubber parts, shining better then new. Believe it or not, but you can actually improve a brand new car inside and out with the proper techniques, and products.

I purchased a 8,000k HID kit for my truck off of this site this past saturday. I was emailed a tracking number, but it still just says billing information received. I have sent countless emails without reply, and was also a little worried when my invoice number was ~48 or so. Has anyone had any experience or feedback on this site? I am considering filing a complaint if they don't answer the phone this afternoon. Thanks

Yes, I know CarFax only shows so much, but if anyone has the ability to back check a vin # for historical records, that would be great. Please tell me and I will pm the vin #.

What do you look at and order from? Not brand specific, but ... I imagine most everyone here has a copy of Summit and Jegs sitting around somewhere. Few of you guys are even lucky enough to look at say ... BMW, Corvette, or Mustang specific

Thanks to Xtremekustomz (Other message board) for turning me onto this website. I have to admit I hadn't heard of many of their products other than Mother's and Meguairs when I went there. But I went and got the stuff he recommended to keep the car looking it's best and not causing any swirl marks, scratches, haze, etc during washing, drying and detailing. Well I just finished washing my car today for the first since I got the paint color sanded to remove all the swirl marks, scratches and much of the factory orange peel, with all of the products I ordered. The products left the best finish I have ever had on any car

hey guys, i've been trying to think up all the slang/jargon that has to do with cars, let's see what all you can think of so far, i've got: bump stick = cam shaft blower = supercharger hairdryer = turbocharger (or is it a supercharger? im not sure) slush box = transmission skinnies = tiny front tires juice = hydraulics or nitrous, depending

i was told that to make the alarm louder or to set the shock sensor level i need the manual becuase its all done by button combos from the remote...... its a old alarm.. xt-65 please any help would be awsome!

http://videos.streetfire.net/category/Niss...0E6FFC85226.htm all of these cars are outstanding

Well, I think it's time the Cobra went bye bye. I need some suggestions on what to get. I have to be able to fit my work tools and a stroller in there, and have plenty of room in a back seat for the baby seat without cramping frontseat passengers. I'm thinking along the lines of an extended cab or crew cab pickup, or a large car with a huge trunk. Budget is $10-12K, and no GM or Chrysler junk please. What's everyone else with the kiddies rollin?

I need a backup camera for my car. It need to be infrared or have some sort of night vision. Its primary use is for backing up at night because of dark tint I can't see as well as I should. Would not like to spend a fortune but want good quality so whatever it takes. Also I do not want it to stand out. Something like this is pretty much perfect except i dont know how it will do at night... Amazon.com: BOYO VTL351 Ultraslim Zinc License Plate Camera (Black Metal): Electronics or http://www.crutchfield.com/p_707VTL405/Boyo-VTL-Series-Chrome.html?search=camera&ssi=0 or BOYO VTL300 METAL LICENSE PLATE REAR VIEW CAR CAMERA - eBay (item 390121633219 end time Feb-19-10 15:…

I found the bag kit i will be purchasing for my 1985 S10 Blazer for when i bag and body drop it. Im just waiting for the invoice from the company which will be getting it $50 cheaper directly through them than through ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Air-Ride-Co...80570QQtcZphoto figured i couldnt pass up that kit for $2000 Shipped because it comes with everything but my upper and lower control arms which are going to cost me around another $730 by themselves. i cant wait to start this project. plan on bag and bodydropping it on either 20s or 22's if its possible. also plan on swapping the little 2.8L v6 with a 350 edelbrock crate engine when the time comes…

Thinking of upgrading my battery and adding a run of 4 gauge wire for a sub-system in my 2000 Avalon XLS and its been the most advanced car I've owned technology wise. Obviously to replace it I will have to disconnect the battery and my question is about what will this do to affect the car? Will it reset the odometer and car computer and so on? Thanks and let me know if you guys have had any success!

Like this much better than the K&N CAI, everyone needs one. Especially with the added weight of audio equipment. I'll have to shoot some better looking final photos sometime.

It's about time to replace my front pads on the Jeep and looks like I will need to replace my disks also. There's a company called Vanco which makes a big brake kit. 12" rotor vs 11" rotor stock and Explorer Sport-Trac calipers. I've looked around and it seems like I can use the Sport-trac rotor. Sport-trac calipers come in 2 different sizes, one has 2 48mm pistons, the other has 2 46mm pistons. Stock Jeep caliper has 1 66mm piston. Comparing the surface, 2 48mm pistons have more surface while the 2 46mm have a smaller surface. I can source the smaller Explorer caliper locally for a good price and then it would cost me disks + pads. Is the smaller caliper piston surface (…

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_...&cardist=89 The girl likes this car. It's no ///M series but it'll do for her. Her uncle is fronting her a lot of cash towards a new car for a graduation present. She needs/wants something with high gas mileage that is comfortable, reliable, and relatively cheap to fix when/if needed. Her uncle wants something that is decently quick (compared to her 4cyl '89 Camry) and that is rear wheel drive though he is open to quick FWD cars. I want something with decent miles. This is getting on the high side for me but what can I say, we've been on the hunt for 2 months and this is one of the few that is meeting all criteria. The carf…

This guy has a mad carbon fiber fetish! Very nice car! http://audiogroupforum.com/csforum/showthread.php?t=66958

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alright where is the brake fluid thing located on a jeep grand cherokee? is it under the hood??

Today a dude pulled up next to me at a stoplight and said my brake lights don't work. So I come home and mess around and find out that the sensor that's attached to the brake pedal isn't doing it's job correctly. It seems like when I push the brake pedal it doesn't trip the sensor. I can push up the sensor and it turns my brake lights on. So do I need a new one or can this one just be adjusted somehow? and what's it exactly called anyways, since I've been trying to look it up online and can't find the part?

well my brakes went out and have been out for a while, but the brake fluid things are full of fluid so i know its not a leak in that, so i was told maybe its the master cyclinder or, just bleed the brakes maybe theres an air bubble or air in the lines, its gonna cost alot to fix but i would like to know if any way at possible to check to know for sure whats wrong with it, like how to check for the leaks etc, i cant move the car unless i want to pull the Ebreak the whole time i was wonderin if i should bleed the brakes and then go get a free check up? Or would that be just stupid? idk i just really would like to know yalls opinions Thanks!

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