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well my budget is almost together to rebuild my system I have a alpine 7998 deck. I don't listen to my music very loud usally but I still want good clean sound. I need new amps (and subs but they can wait). Should I go with a higher power amp 100-150+ watt per channel and use the passive crossovers or sould I get a 40-60+ 4 channel and bi amp them with the deck 3way Xover. I have MB Quart 6.5 comp. rated @50-120. If there is a better option I am open to suggestions. I have 50 watts going to the passives and it is close to loud enough but I want more bass and more head room for when I get new subs.

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Well I am having questions about the big 3 upgrade and running into some problems. I will soon be running Two Level 3 DC 10s in my truck on a DC 2k or a crescendo 2k. Okay where to start Here is the list of things i am going to get for the upgrade if you guys know of any better things or better prices please let me know. http://www.amazon.co...=A3J1PF183V710G http://www.amazon.co...4163658&sr=1-16 http://www.amazon.co...4163658&sr=1-16 http://www.amazon.co...cp_ob_e_title_2 And i am missing a few items i will have pictures of them if you guys could tell me where to get them and the size. first off here is a picture i have a question with Can i attach the termina…

Hey guys this is going to be a long question lol i am tearing everything out of my truck and starting over even though everything is mostly out. so where do i start i have a 01 GMC sierra single cab dropped on 20s will upgrade to 24s lol and i am looking at putting in two 10s for now possibly DC or FI audio depends the mounting depth on them are around 6 inches i believe ether Level 2 or 3 DC subs the 10s depending on price and the SSD FI 10s what do you guys think? so it should fit i will build a custom box sealed possibly ported if anyone can give me some ideas it would be great i am looking for any feed back. so that gets to the wiring.... Big 3 upgrade or extra batt…

Bl/Mms is constantly turning up everywhere to describe the "acceleration factor" of a driver. This is totally wrong! The "acceleration factor" or "speed" of a driver is determined only by the bandwidth of the driver and nothing else. In reality the "fastest" driver or the one with the quickest rise time is one that can play the highest frequencies! Here we will use a picture to help explain the situation. In the following we show time from left to right, and amplitude from top to bottom. - Picture courtesy of Cool Edit 96 - www.syntrillium.com We have 3 complete sine wave cycles showing with a period of silence between each. The first one we shall say is 20hz, t…

I need subwoofer box building software......I wanna start designs for my 2 15's NOW!!!1 Anyone got any help?? FREE is really helpful!!!! J

Hey all , I've got this AA mayhem 15 inch dual 2 ohms wired to 1 ohm , now BBpro6 tells me that the minimum impedance under load will be 2,05 ohms in the box its playing in , is this what the amp will see or will the amp still see the Re of 0,7 ? thanks in advance .

if i build a box for a lower tunning, will the music not sound as good as a higher tuned box, or will it just sound better on low frequencies? Thanks Dustin

2007 Honda Accord Pioneer 80PRS Sundown SAZ1500 Fully Loaded 12in FI BL 2.5 cu ft box after displacement tuned to 34 hz All 0g wire and Shruiken 1500 extra batt plus yellowtop up front The FS of the sub is 39.8 and i was wondering if there was any relationship between fs and box tuning? My main goal is SPL but I will use it as a daily driver so i dont want the sound quality to go to shit.

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I am looking for some rough plans on how to make a ported pacman box for 4 15" subs. Anyone with any links or resources would be great.

I have saved a little money for some wood, and still have glue, clamps and screws from my other box. I wanted to give building a T-line a try since i have heard fairly good things about them. It's just a for fun box, for my 12" visonik i got a while back. Amp and power and all that is covered, it's going in the house for now (no car til who knows when >.<). it's for music, primarily low notes in rap music. i was gonna try for a tuning of ~27-29hz. Now on to the hard part. I havent had alot of computer time recently, but in the time i have had, i couldnt find a calculator for a 1/4th wave transmission line. The specs i can give you for my sub: 250rms rated (takes dou…

Hey all, I've built plenty of enclosures and done 1 wall that I was able to build outside and slide in through the hatch but my next build I need to go as large as possible so build inside, and thats quite a change from slapping screws in, flip the box, drop more in. Can I get some links to build logs that have good pics of this please... I have been searching and found almost none that really help. Thanks! Krypto

I am burping my loudest freq below the tuning of the port. My only question is, how much lower should I tune the port to? I burp the loudest at 47, port is tuned to 52 Would tuning it at 45 be okay?

First off I have two alpine pdx 600.1amps each amp is producing over 700 watts I want to buy 2 fi ssd 12s run 1 off each amp anyway here's the questions when ordering I'm asked about flatwind coil yes or no copper coil yes or no and bo power. Could someone explain this to me and what I should do to answer these questions thanks

I want to make sure I calculate this correctly because apparently i am slightly off, either that or other manufacturers are off. When calculating port length, let's say it says to use 26" long and you are, for example, using 12.56sq in of port which is for a 4" diameter port. Radius is 2" I thought to calculate slot port length was to take the 26" depth and subtract from that the sqin radius by converting the sqin value to a circle then finding the radius, which in this case is 2". That would then make the length 24" but when looking at manufacturer's giving you specs like a baby, either their calculations are wrong or i have been told wrong! So, what do i need to know to…

Your site bitpusher has malware? Congress up on many of my checkers... Just a heads up Love the site and wanted to make sure it stays working well

I cant seem to find a straight answer on this. Im wanting to know if i can/should mount 2 yellow tops on their "backs" stacked on top of each other. Anyone have experience with this?

To raise it from 1ohm to 2ohm final load?

Does anybody have any good suggestions on Car Audio Books. More advanced stuff.

So, what is the cause of "moving air"? There are two possibilities in my mind that I think would create this. #1. Air Displacement from the motion of the moving cone of the subwoofer. #2. Actual pressure (sound waves) moving the air inside of the car. In scenario #1 the key to moving the most air would be to have the most cone area, the most excursion of the subwoofers and to have a sealed box (ports have an opening in them so technically a port would help the equalization of air pressure inside of the car) This would also explain why Randy Kubek pretty much has a mobile wind tunnel because he has always ran sealed boxes. ( for reference) In scenario#2, there is much …

I dont compete. My last 3 systems were with the port on the right hand side. But I like the design of the center port and it will also help with loading issues. Will it sound different with the port being in the center since im used to it being on the right. These are the 2 im looking at heres one heres the one i really liked

Our team is looking to purchase a clamp meter/dmm setup for competition this year, some guys are running 1000rms, others will be above 7500rms. So I've been looking at the fluke 376 clamp meter. But when I get to looking at DMM/s, I'm lost as to what we really need. I'd really like to get some and seriously need help. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd be very appreciative. Basic goals are to find out exactly what our box rise is, and how much power we are actually drawing so we can fuse properly. I'm looking at a clamp meter that will read up to 1000A so we have some overhead. Also looked at the iFlex cable for the Fluke, would that be worth while? Thanks…

Thought maybe someone could take this one and explain why use a certain coil over another. Which material and what size fit what needs the best. etc.

I've grown concerned about something that I see all over the audio forums: People stating that tuning a ported enclosure has nothing to do with the woofer. Couple of quetions / points to discuss: How many here believe this? For those that do, why? By that, I mean, because someone else told you so or because you've done some reading somewhere? If so, where... Wouldn't it make sense that the woofer acts upon the port by nature? Considering displacement, excusrion, fs, & emf properties... I'm under the impression that a woofer will interact with the port design, not act independantly. For reasonable / average installations this isn't a big concern I suppose... as the mec…