Advanced Discussion

I've been having some issues with the voltage in my truck. When i start it it will be around 14.0v-14.5v but after about a minute without playing any music it will drop to about 12.2v and roam between 12v-13v. I dont get any voltage drop when playing music either(maybe .1v-.2v drop but thats normal) if anything it will go back up just a little. Any insight/advice would be greatly appreciated.

My HU it a JVC AVX830. I have the option to change the q on my lows and mids in the eq. Now I've noticed when I change the q to a lower setting the speakers seem to play "louder". What does this do? Is this based off the qts of the driver? How should it be adjusted. Right now I can't seem to get the tuning right. It either sounds hollow and muffled or the highs drown out the words. Could someone enlighten me?

Our team is looking to purchase a clamp meter/dmm setup for competition this year, some guys are running 1000rms, others will be above 7500rms. So I've been looking at the fluke 376 clamp meter. But when I get to looking at DMM/s, I'm lost as to what we really need. I'd really like to get some and seriously need help. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd be very appreciative. Basic goals are to find out exactly what our box rise is, and how much power we are actually drawing so we can fuse properly. I'm looking at a clamp meter that will read up to 1000A so we have some overhead. Also looked at the iFlex cable for the Fluke, would that be worth while? Thanks…

I am going to be moving from my current 2 way passive system(JL ZR650s) to a 3 way active system. I originally planned to go full Beyma mids and highs, but ever since my ZR woofers broke in, I have fallen in love with their sound and I have decided to keep them as my mid range and add the ZR800s as my mid bass drivers; I also will be using the Beyma AST09 3 inch super tweeter. I have a 08 Tahoe. My current setup has the woofer in the stock location and the tweeter in the stock A pillar location. I plan to build an enclosure in my center console for my 8's(one firing to both the driver and passenger side/not in between the seats) and glass my doors to fit the tweeter, but…

I have a pair of 8 ohm MJ18s. I am designing a Zobel for them at the moment and cannot find the published Le of these anywhere. I also don't have access to my Suncor LCR meter at the moment.... Does anyone know off-hand what it is?

First, I'm going to go through and list the equipment I have then example and ask the questions. Ride- 01 Ford F-250 CrewCab Headunit-Kenwood X789 Sub Amp-ZX1500 Sub-12" Fi Q Box- 2.3cuft Net with two 4" Aeros tuned to ~30hz Ok, so I bought the amp off Craigslist for $50, and only thing it needed was sent off for warranty repair. And had the original receipt, so I got a basically refurb ZX1500 for $65($15 to ship). So when I got it back from Kicker, I wanted to test it, so I through my box in the back seat. The sub was wired in series, so 2.8ohms. Played it for a good little while, the sub showed no sign of stress, and was quiet loud. Not 150dB, but you get the picture. S…

I cant seem to find a straight answer on this. Im wanting to know if i can/should mount 2 yellow tops on their "backs" stacked on top of each other. Anyone have experience with this?

Hey guys this is going to be a long question lol i am tearing everything out of my truck and starting over even though everything is mostly out. so where do i start i have a 01 GMC sierra single cab dropped on 20s will upgrade to 24s lol and i am looking at putting in two 10s for now possibly DC or FI audio depends the mounting depth on them are around 6 inches i believe ether Level 2 or 3 DC subs the 10s depending on price and the SSD FI 10s what do you guys think? so it should fit i will build a custom box sealed possibly ported if anyone can give me some ideas it would be great i am looking for any feed back. so that gets to the wiring.... Big 3 upgrade or extra batt…

I was reading a port area article on here. Port Area - SSA Car Audio Forum Utilizing the recommendations from other in that article and going back and looking at white papers from various manufacturers from the likes of JL, JBL, and Boston Acoustics etc,,, I notice that their port size recommendations are in the 3-4" area. Even on woofs that are known to be seeing 500+ watts. Why? After looking at those enclosure recommendations it is very apparent that the port noise is going to be horrendous let alone compression. Also utilizing the port area calculators in the above listed topic, I noticed that port resonance frequencies drop in frequency the larger the port diamete…

I usually don't do this, and I hate to give this idiot more views but this was just to good. http://youtu.be/O2hraSZ55cE This is the first I've heard of this, and I didn't know you could see wiring move when current passes through it. I guess you learn something new everyday. This guy blocked me a while back for informing his XS Power batteries wasn't 6+ years old, as he stated.(Even though I don't know why he was making that excuse to begin with) so I can't comment to find out more on this wonderful knowledge he's giving out.

I was wondering if the box would sound better ported facing towards the cabin ,up against the back seats or closer towards the trunk opening ? And would it make a difference to completely seal off the trunk ?

Ok so I have basic knowledge of rear/front waves and all that mess. My basic question is this: I have a subwoofer enclosure with the port firing to the side and the sub firing upward. Theoretically, which way should I "point" the port to get the loudest result? I can fire it in four different ways You can look at this vid to get a good idea of how much room it has etc. So to get the least amount of canceling or whatever, what do y'all think? I will probably test all four different ways on the TL, but I am just wondering what your theories are... Thanks! PS - pic is as though you were looking down on the car. The red square is the TL mic.

Alright, I've been trying to figure this out since I finished the new install. The Q's and Sundown amps sound amazing, they really do. I've never had anything that sounds like they do, so deep, so accurate and SO forceful, they're really quite amazing. However, I noticed a strange phenomenon right after installation that I kind of chocked up to the fact they were still very tight. After several months of playing it got worse instead of better, and at the car show last November I discovered something interesting about the phenomenon and have been studying and working on the how and why of it since. Problem is, I can't find any good information on it. So at this point…

http://ampguts.com/forum/atomic-36/atomic-5000-1d-1901/ Same board as a couple other amps, RD, Cactus blew a fet or 2 or 3 lol. Got all the screws out and cant pull this board out, its like wedged in or something. and the heatsinks look like they have to be bent up, but if i bend them up not sure if they are going to be able to bend back down.

I've been looking around at some different subs, trying to decide what I want to do for a summer project. I want to do my own work, i.e., build my own box, replace door speakers, etc. I've been looking at subs on Parts Express, like Dayton and Tang Band. I've been all over their websites, but can't find any recommendations for box sizes or types (ported, sealed, etc). So, my two questions are: 1) How do you calculate box size requirements using the specs that are provided? 2) How can you tell what type of enclosure a sub will work best in? I'm specifically interested in very small applications, as I'd like to try and run multiple subs (three or more) and try to retain s…

So Ive been looking at numbers, maybe im way off. its .078ohms/1000ft ohms/1ft ------------ 12v 14v------------ 12v Amps--- 14v Amps 1-/0 0.00078 ------------ 12v 14v------------ 15384.61538--- 17948.71795------------ 205.1282051 205A is at 75ft which is close to 250likemost charts say with the 1ft values are high as hell though. This looks more reasonable. 1/-0 ------------ Ohms ------------ ------------ Amps 350A ------------ 12-- 14 ------------ ------------ 12-- 14 50ft ------------ 0.034285714---- 0.04 ------------ 350-- 350 25ft ------------ 0.017142857---- 0.02 ------------ 700-- 700 12.5f…

I am trying to fit this 10" under my seat in my 08 silverado ext cab, But this seems like an impossible task because its so much bigger than most 10s, i havent read or seen anyone do anything about this and im wondering if i even can and if anyones done it short of taking out a seat?

Alright, so im working on a design for a new box for my NS 18. i am running a saz1500d on stock alternator and soon to be (hopefully) a new xs power battery(probably d5100) im gonna do it right at 5 cubes tuned to 35hz, so it will still be good for daily, and get me a little more spl for when i compete. so since i plan on competing as much as possible i was wondering how much port area to have. ik everybody says 12-16 but i was wondering if i should go more or less or just stick within that range. ik there are some people on here that are really smart when it comes to this subject so thanx in advance. also, is 35hz a good tuning for daily and a little bit of competing or …

I'm looking for anyone near Sioux Falls with a Term Lab. I won't be going back to Dashboard by Karl's, so I'll need to travel.

I'm curious on what type of aluminum people use for bus bars and such? I will be making some to fit my post batteries because I can't find any terminals I like. Plus making my own will cost less, because I need four.

Ok to start this thread off. Please do NOT post information you read from the internet where the original writer could of pulled out there ass. Just don't do it. Facts only here please. No He said she said bullshit. To get started, I was reading and come across some info. No need to get into what it was, but it lead me to really find the truth about wiring. I think there is so much bullshit being passed around as the truth its not funny anymore. WeLl I finally want to inform people of what's really being advertised, and how to draw a conclusion from that. Ok so you have 4 major types of wire talked about in the audio world. OFC Silver Tinned OFC Copper Tinned OFC CCA Bas…

I have saved a little money for some wood, and still have glue, clamps and screws from my other box. I wanted to give building a T-line a try since i have heard fairly good things about them. It's just a for fun box, for my 12" visonik i got a while back. Amp and power and all that is covered, it's going in the house for now (no car til who knows when >.<). it's for music, primarily low notes in rap music. i was gonna try for a tuning of ~27-29hz. Now on to the hard part. I havent had alot of computer time recently, but in the time i have had, i couldnt find a calculator for a 1/4th wave transmission line. The specs i can give you for my sub: 250rms rated (takes dou…

hey whats up, I am learning about enclosure design and tuning and was wondering about two terms "imp rise" and "unloading". I breezed through a thread on imp rise and got some very good information. Its the unloading part that im not to clear on. I have a 15" Fi BL Loaded and think that I have damaged it due to unloading (I think). My question is how does it affect the subwoofer, what kind of damage can this do, can a recone kit fix the sub if broken due to unloading. I was having problems where my sub would cut out then cut back in for some reason as I was playing low frequencies. The amp was not clipping or going into protect as I could see all the LED's while this…

Ok so i have two motors that need reconed,i had Rusty(DC) do one for me and the coil rubbed. How do i get the measurements i need for the right coil? I do not have either coil that originally were in either sub,i do have a set of digital calipers. So what do i measure to get the correct coil? Thanks.

please people, i am working on an assignment that require that i compare two amplifiers( Velleman K4004 amplifier vs Amplimo A120amplifier) the task is to determine between the two amplifiers the one with better SOUND OUTPUT.i hav the following equipments to work with, true RMS multimeter,oscilloscope,function generator,variable resistor,the two model of amplifiers mentioned above i have chosen the following specs from a range of online research i have conducted as a means of determining which is better btw the two 1. gain 2. frequency 3. linearity 4. noise 5. bandwidth 6. output dynamic range 7. input and out impedance 8. damping factor please my problem now is how to us…