Advanced Discussion

I have a Soundstream Rubicon RUB1.2500D, and would like to either remove/disable the SSF circuit, or modify the SSF pot so that I can simply turn it off that way. I haven't looked at the resistance of the SSF pot yet, but could I change it out with a different value of pot to make it so that it is disabled at its lowest setting, instead of the standard 10-40 hertz? I have some experience in repairing and modifying amps, and power supplies and such, but I never have encountered something like this, yet.

Okay so the other day i noticed my system was not playing the same. It seems to be playing at half of its potential! So i waited and didn't listen to it for one day.. didn't even drive the truck. I just now took it for a ride and its true... something is wrong! I pulled into an empty parking lot and played it at full tilt with the truck running in park, i was steady at 14v.. MY system is not suppose to be steady at 14v, i hit 151.8 dBs parked and the voltage dropped to low mid 12s and it was at the same volume as it was when i hit 151.8 It seems like the subs are only getting a couple thousand watts of power. No i am not getting use to it.. I checked all 0gauge connect…

Active 2-way with Full Range driver for the top end? This is not meant to be a pick my driver for me topic. My new dilemma is because of Adrian, he put the full range bug in my ear and I am starting to question my plans. I am not as versed in full range drivers as many others are on this board, so why not use the knowledge base. Setting: car - Mazda Protege5 wagon original front stage plans - Bravox CF603CF's power - many to choose from, so not an issue mounting location - FR's or mid/tweet would have to be at the base of the A-pillars (small manual car with no real room in the foot wells) Now where I am questioning my plans is that I have not had a passive set up in y…

someone should do this with a voice coil and make the sub-woofer super efficient!!!

Hi guys, my sub amp (Soundstream 2000 monobock) is acting weird. You will hear the subs pop out and then the amp goes into protect. Any time of day, any volume level, music/no music. It's totally random. Just wondering if any of you would have any ideas. I have 165A alternator (stock), 1/0Ga wire to amp. The batt meter on the car stays at 14 volts. The gain on the amp is all the way down. No bass boost. It also seems random when the amp resets itself so I can begin to use it again. Let me know if you need any more info. I'm also wondering if my subs could be the problem. They are dual 3 ohm wired in series to 6 ohm per speaker input (there are 2 on amp). The speakers wire…

http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2007/06/070603225026.htm we can we expect to see these in amplifiers? and how much more efficient would they be if 30% or more of the heat was turned into electricity? what about lining sub boxes with piezoelectric crystals to make electiricity from the sound subwoofers produce. and have that electricity go back to the amplifier/capacitor.

I'm thinking of purchasing a cheap broken amplifier off ebay just to try to learn to repair it. I'm a fairly fast learner and am good at learning new things, so it seems like it might be a fun challenge... What's exactly involved? I know I would need a test power supply (computer psu?), dmm, soldering kit... Is the basic technique to just look for components that are burnt or have failed and replace them?

hey i have a problem that i cannot figure out my btl will run loud like it should but sometimes in mid beat it's like some one turned the dimmer switch down half way ?? i checked my preouts they range from .5 to 4.6 when bumping hard but as var as voltage being put out to the sub at full tilt it's only registering 20-26 at the most i an running a btl 12" duel 2 ohm wired to 1 ohm on a saz 2000d now should the volts match to somewheres around 44v at full tilt or i'm i doing somthing wrong while mesuring the volts for the out put i put the positive on the red and negative on the black for the speaker outputs right? could i be a loose conection in the box causing one voice…

Okay, so i think i fucked something up in my 86 GMC S-15 that deals with electrical, go figure right.. Everything was working perfectly, then.. i connected my (2) D3100 XS Power batts with (2) runs of 0AWG wire (pos n neg) and something (idk what) happened and this is the results... I started my truck (got low voltage) and my Head Unit didn't turn on, along with amps. I put a test light on my 15amp Radio fuse in my fuse box by my kick panel and no power, so i pulled it and it wasn't blown but i replaced it anyway. Then put a test light on it and still no power. I pulled my Head Unit to check the factory 10amp fuse and i got the same issue, no power but not blown. On my f…

Bl/Mms is constantly turning up everywhere to describe the "acceleration factor" of a driver. This is totally wrong! The "acceleration factor" or "speed" of a driver is determined only by the bandwidth of the driver and nothing else. In reality the "fastest" driver or the one with the quickest rise time is one that can play the highest frequencies! Here we will use a picture to help explain the situation. In the following we show time from left to right, and amplitude from top to bottom. - Picture courtesy of Cool Edit 96 - www.syntrillium.com We have 3 complete sine wave cycles showing with a period of silence between each. The first one we shall say is 20hz, t…

Here is a test we did a few years back... Always surprises people... http://forum.carstereos.org/clipping-test-...41.html?t=47441 -Mike

Got my hands on a FLUKE TiR thermal imager for the day so I figured I do a little testing on the heating and cooling of my subs/amps. So Playing my system full blast for about 4 1/2 minutes (usher-daddys home off decaf's zip 14) The main frequencies peak at 39hz, 38hz, and 26hz. Subs just starting to get stinky(clipping a tad to see how hot I can get them) Subs are in a 17C.F C-pillar wall after displacement, tuned to roughly 28hz. Subs are (2)18" AA Mayhem D1, amps are (2)Colossus XXV clamped at 2,800 RMS each. First image was taken within seconds after turning down the volume to 0. Shows the center(dustcap area) of the sub being roughly 132 degrees, and just next to…

Ok before I get flamed I know I'm retarded for what I did to this amp.. Ok here is the deal I tried using another brand of bass knob so I had a clipping light.Well long story short it worked for about 5 seconds and blew the inline fuse. I tried reconnecting the AP knob and a new fuse it blew right away as soon as it powered up. Then same thing With no knob connected I checked inside the amp everything looks and smells ok did a few more test with a small fuses and used speaker wire as a jumper i can't get the power light to even come on for a secondbut the amp is turned on by the remote.. the top lights up just not the power or protect led's The amp is **** near new just w…

I'm looking into buying a 15" BTL fully loaded. My question is, can I tune my box lower than the recommended fs frequency? If I did, would it affect the sub in a bad way? Poor sound quality? Just wondering if there would be a negative effect on the sub. I think the fs frequency on the 15" BTL is 37.9. I like low frequency hip hop and want to tune my box low like 30 hz (at the lowest 25 hz). Is this not a good idea, what would be the result?

I'd like some knowledgeable input on this topic. I have been told to o-scope amps with no load but am wanting to know if any of the following i've been told is true or not. Do not have a load as the amp output from the amp could fry the oscope. Do not have a load as the reading may be off. Well, i've always o-scoped amps with no load. I've o-scoped class d and class ab amps like that with no problems. Today, i attempted to o-scope this class d amp and it got damaged immediately. I contacted the manufacturer and was told it MUST have a load on it or it will do what it did. I ask why and it is due to the amp seeing 0 ohms... Wouldnt the amp go into protect? I dont understa…

I need some help with the best way to hook up my subs. Right now I have one of my Punch P2D210 sub hooked to the B side and the + to the + and - to - like the manual said to do. Would I be better hooking the Sub1+ to the A+ and Sub1- to the B- ? With two subs Punch (P2D210 x 2) am I better off hooking Sub1 + to A+ and Sub1 - to A- / Sub2 + to B+ and Sub2 - to B- OR Amp A+ to Sub1 + / Sub1 - to Sub2 + / Sub2 - to Amp B- ? OR if none of these are are the best way then just let me know the best way. Thanks for the help. Picture of current single sub ( + and - are on B posts)

Hey guys, I am having the following issue with my amp: The protection light comes on as soon as it powers up and it stays on. If I leave the amp on for a minute or so I can feel it getting really hot on the corner where the fuses are located on the bottom. The side of the amp is where it is getting hot and it looks like maybe a transistor over there (you can see if by looking in past the fuses). I have a Kicker amp that works just fine using the same power, ground, and remote wires. Memphis quoted $175 to fix it. I think it could be an easy fix if its just a bad transistor. I know how to solder and I've taken an amp out of its heatsink before to work on it but ended u…

I have not put to much though into this but I was just wondering if this would be a great charging system for car audio. The way a hybrid vehicle works is it runs off battery power at low speeds and at idle. The only way gas is used is when the voltage drops past a certain level to charge the batteries. This would be ideal for competition use as the charging system is geared toward the idle to low rpm range. There are multiple batteries in a hybrid setup and I am sure that the charging system would have to be pretty beefed up to charge a hybrid vehicle. A regulator could be used to change the voltage at which the charging system kicks in. If you were to have a high power…

i talked to a rep. at DC and he said i need 17inches of port area per cubic foot of airspace. how can i tell the port area of a round port? im going to be building 4, 4" in diameter ports, that will be tuned to 33HZ. the box is going to be 5cubes when its all done. i just dont know if i i will have enough port area to keep the port noise to a minimum. any help?

What aluminum alloy is best for electrical? Im asking because im using very thick and wide aluminum buss bars on my next build.

pretty much my truck is telling me no to this system. I installed my box, wired my subs, wired the amp, fired it up... nothing amp comes on, zero output to subs. I do hear a whine through the door speakers if I rev the engine. -installed new RCA's -I have a 1/0 copper wire running to the frame as my ground. and after no sound I grinded the frame down to bare shiny metal. -checked all the fuses. -checked all the wires. -Rechecked all fuses and wires. -moved and jiggled the whole length of RCA -took the remote wire out and jumped a wire from the power to the rem When I turn the volume up on the HU as soon as a hard not comes through, the amp hits the subs once then goes int…

I'm not sure if this is in the correct forum or not, because this isn't quite as technical as the other topics I searched through, but hopefully this one will do. I've got a friend from work who's son has an amp that is not working. I don't know a whole lot about amp repair, but I know how to check diodes, transistors, and simple stuff with a meter (no oscilloscope at my disposal unfortunately), so I am just taking a look at it for him. I dont have a whole lot of description about what the amp is doing, but from what he tells me, the amp will come on, won't go into protect or anything, but the subs will pop and them hum continuously. The first thing that came to my mind i…

I need to know exactly what mechanical failure is to a sub woofer. I know this is a rookie question, but I need some technica answers as I think it's the reason for my sub's death. Or can a sub even break due to this. I am 110% sure it wasn't because of thermal failure. The voice coils look brand new when I took it apart. Yes I took it apart and ordered a recone before asking. I know part of it was due to playing freq. lower than box tuning and using bass boost. What part of the sub breaks or what does the coil look like when it dies mechanicaly + 1,000,000 other questions I have but i'll start w/these. Thank's.

Hey all, I've built plenty of enclosures and done 1 wall that I was able to build outside and slide in through the hatch but my next build I need to go as large as possible so build inside, and thats quite a change from slapping screws in, flip the box, drop more in. Can I get some links to build logs that have good pics of this please... I have been searching and found almost none that really help. Thanks! Krypto

Hi guys, i am writing a paper about the behavior of woofers tied in with resonance, tuning and such, the behavior of a woofer under stress (i.e. during use) and a detailed diagram of all the parts of the average woofer. i am focusing on these main topics: A) resonance/tuning 1) movement at and around the tuning frequency 2) the uses and benefits of diferent tunings, uses; musical and competitions B) Behavior under stress 1) impedance rise 2) thermal compression 3) box rise + the effect of tuning on it C) mechanical parts 1) Moving parts 2) suspension/soft parts, and effects of different styles of suspension materials 3) cooling technologies Thanks for taking the time to r…