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Feel free to post links on how to fiberglass.....stay on topic please....below are a compilation from various members from caraudio.com http://web.njit.edu/%7Ecas1383/proj/main/ http://www.sounddomain.com/id/the1wagsjlguy http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/ http://www.caraudioresources.net/technical.html http://www.sounddomain.com/member_p...?page_id=338498 http://www.sounddomain.com/id/jeep98 http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/glassing/ http://www.geocities.com/stevebang2000/car-audio.html http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/fibrglas.htm http://www.sounddomain.com/id/goddyd4me http://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/ubb...int=;DaysPrune= http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/ http://www…

I have done my reading but I still do not know enough, I want to learn how to design them and the strengths and weakness of each. I hope to design and build one of these for an RL-i 8

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which do you guys prefer, facing the driver seat facing the roof facing the rear or lifted and downward pointing...

Ok so i have two motors that need reconed,i had Rusty(DC) do one for me and the coil rubbed. How do i get the measurements i need for the right coil? I do not have either coil that originally were in either sub,i do have a set of digital calipers. So what do i measure to get the correct coil? Thanks.

JL HD 600/4 - Channel 1 does NOT work!! i had all the connections checked and everything, but it's defective somehow. i got it to play after switching back the slope switch a couple of times, and then it would play for a little bit. then there would be some cackling, then the signal would just completely die in Channel 1. i can get it to play for a few minutes if i play with the switches on the amp, but that's about it. has anyone ever heard of this? i had my entire stereo installed by a JL dealer near me

So within a few months I will be getting the '13 Fusion and I want to do an active setup. I really don't know much about the speaker choices, best crossover points, processing so I'm relying on you guys to help me get a good front stage. Right now I want to start planning; don't want to rush it when the time comes. So what will I need? amp, speakers (2 6.5 mids and 2 tweeters), minidsp? I will keep the stock hu and use a LC2i. My budget as of right now is undetermined as I want to see prices of everything then see what I should spend. My goals really are simple. I want it to be loud enough to hear vocals over the bass when the subs are high and I want the mid bass t…

This topic is to discuss test box alignments and tuning for a 6.5"-7" midbass. I am planning on testing quite a few mids in different alignments. MY GOAL IS TO achieve tight accurate dynamic midbass down to 63Hz, with overhead in the output. I am after a very open natural crystal clear sound. I am NOT after punchy colored thick sluggish midbass. My current set up is the Seas U18 in an IB (deadened doors). They are crossed @63hz 24db slope presently. I am running two 15" Icons sealed, crossed @50hz 24db slope. The U in its current alignment handles these frequencys, but has what I believe to be cone edge resonance once at reference level. Plus has no overhead…

so many of you get that you need a pretty big amp for a pretty big woofer, but intuitively this makes little sense right? a big motor should in fact be more efficient! bob explains this pretty well why this is not true... http://www.sunfire.com/pdf/woofwhiteall.pdf

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alternative-lizard-skin-103610.html Micro ballons http://www.heatshield-r20.com Anyone had experience with it? It looks interesting.

I've been toying with the idea of using a horn in a spl application (one note wonder, as efficient as possible) for a few weeks now.. Instead of a regular wall, with the woofers and port on the wall, me and a friend had the idea of using a horn, with the opening as the whole front of the wall. It would be a front loaded horn, exponential, loaded with some sort of efficient pro-audio woofer, not the "horns" that have popped up in the car audio scene. Apart from the difficulty of fitting a horn (around 22ft long for the woofer I'm thinking about, should be shorter for a very narrow bandwidth), any problem with using it in such a small space ? Or any sort of other problem…

Hey, I just bought a Velleman HPS10 oscope a couple days ago. Im trying to configure it, but am stuck on one step. I cant set up the x10 measuring probe. I set the scope and probe to the 10x position. I also set the voltage/division to 1v and time/division to .1ms I think I set it to AC mode too. Does the "~" sign symbolize AC mode? When I touch the "Probe Test" point on the back of the scope, the screen of the oscope doesnt appear to show a signal because its blank. The directions say to adjust the trimmer. What exactly is the trimmer? Also, should the negative probe be grounded in this step? If so, what should it be grounded to? Thanks in advance for the help.

I see all these vids of people playing 10 or even 5 hz test tones, and i dont really understand how. If you have it tuned to 35, you set the SS at 30 give or take. Then how is it that the sub can play a 10hz tone. Doesn't the box constrict it, and wouldnt it be unable to control the sub below 30 hz or so if tuned to 35? This may sound noob as hell, i dont care lol. Thanks for reading, Mitch

Hi all , I´d like to know if it matters at what voltage an amplifier makes their wattage .. is it more difficult to make an amplifier that has an higher voltage output , say 100Volts vs. 200Volts to keep amperage lower ,and why ? are the coils of drivers calulated to take a certain ratio of watts and amps ? do amplifiers of different brands but but same output have about the same voltage and amp output or are there big differences ? writing this I realize these questions sound pretty nooby , but I´ve never heard anybody talk about this ,while I´d think that it would matter , or at least on the high power amplifiers .... or are the amperages still so low it just doesn´t ma…

So Ive been looking at numbers, maybe im way off. its .078ohms/1000ft ohms/1ft ------------ 12v 14v------------ 12v Amps--- 14v Amps 1-/0 0.00078 ------------ 12v 14v------------ 15384.61538--- 17948.71795------------ 205.1282051 205A is at 75ft which is close to 250likemost charts say with the 1ft values are high as hell though. This looks more reasonable. 1/-0 ------------ Ohms ------------ ------------ Amps 350A ------------ 12-- 14 ------------ ------------ 12-- 14 50ft ------------ 0.034285714---- 0.04 ------------ 350-- 350 25ft ------------ 0.017142857---- 0.02 ------------ 700-- 700 12.5f…

Hey, I was wondering how you would go about hooking up two different alternators? I have a 180 amp alternator installed on my car right now, and I was wondering if it would be possible to hook up my stock alternator also. I'm trying to do this because I have a 2500D and I have read it sucks a lot of juice. I'm guessing I would need some kind of regulator, just trying to make it where my 180 would be for my audio. Then the 80 amp would be solely for my car's electronics. Any kind of past experiences or info would be awesome. Thanks Taylor

Brad and Sean, I imagine you guys will be the most help here but I'm looking for anyone's input with insight here. I have noticed a bit of an acoustic phenomenon in both my vehicles that I'm sure exists in others but I'd love to figure out how to adapt or harness it to be put to real use. I'm also looking for the exact reason the acoustics work this way. In my Jimmy, for example, I have the doors deadened with CLD and CCF (MLV is in the works) and the Bravox components are mounted in good heavy MDF baffles. They sound great with good strong midbass and can even extend fairly low for their small size and low HU power. My only complaint is that they're a bit "forward" o…

I have not put to much though into this but I was just wondering if this would be a great charging system for car audio. The way a hybrid vehicle works is it runs off battery power at low speeds and at idle. The only way gas is used is when the voltage drops past a certain level to charge the batteries. This would be ideal for competition use as the charging system is geared toward the idle to low rpm range. There are multiple batteries in a hybrid setup and I am sure that the charging system would have to be pretty beefed up to charge a hybrid vehicle. A regulator could be used to change the voltage at which the charging system kicks in. If you were to have a high power…

im gonna try it.. i searched and havent seen anyone else try it yet.. THEORETICALLY the QTS is quite low for an IB application.. but you never know til you try it.. so im gonna throw up a quick baffle, a super quick seal, and throw a very low amount of power to it... like 300- 400 watts... just to get a feel of sound.. i decided to try this because i am stuck on how to build an adequate enclosure for my G35 coupe.. im trying to stuff two 12" iCONs in there.. but i want 3.0 a peice... which is next to impossible without building the enclosure into the trunk. if the IB doesnt work, il have no choice but to put the subs into much smaller enclosures(2.2ish) il keep you updat…

I drive a reg cab truck. After hearing a friends Xterra and the relativly good imagining and sound stage I have decided to re work my set up. I will be keeping the CDT HD set, I am still very happy with them. Now, I need some Ideas for staging. Kicks are out of the question unfortunatly, atleast for now. I have been reading many, man sites about the topics of phase, Imaging, and sound stage. Most have stated the obvious of rear fill cancellation(doenst apply to me), phasing expecally in the upper freq. ranges, and the best locations for your sound stage. This has led me to think that If I could angle my comp set more that the sound would be better. I see the glassed …

Ok I was wondering what is the typical impeadence rise of voice coils? this is why I ask. I have a TC sounds 3000 15 dvc 2 in a 3ft^3 sealed enclosure. I currently am running it in series to get a 4 ohm load on my Phoenix Gold Tantrum 1200.1, This amp is 2 ohm stable. now I have read that at rest most coils are under their rating (please correct me if I am wrong) so does this mean when power is put to them that thay rise to their stated ohm? maybe totally dependent on manufacture? enclosure size? sealed? vented? my main question is is there a better way I should be wiring my sub to my amp? (or is this the best way) if I wired in parallel would I get a 1 ohm load or …

Howdy all. I've got a little time on my hands and have a couple of widgets at my disposal. I'm running Stevens Audio Full Body horns in my ride and have a few compression drivers to try out. The compression drivers I've collected so far are the Stevens Audio Pro Drive, Dayton Audio D250P-8, and the DIY Sound Group DNA-360. I've head them here and there, but not long enough to decide which are the best for me. I've got one of those Dayton Audio DATS thingies, so I decided to test out my compression drivers and see what the impedance curve looks like with and without the horn body. I figure I'd share them and spur some discussion on how important the impedance curve is rega…

Okay, now everything has a resonant frequency. At this point, the most energy will be on the object correct? If this is the case, wouldn't it be wise to find the resonant freqency of a particular meter in your intended application and mounting location, measure it, and then design for your peak to be at that point? Wouldn't that produce the highest reading? I'm sure this has been thought of, but I'd like some input. Sean, Neil. . .

I might mess around with this sometime this week. +.6 v would do me good The second link is for float voltage, no need for it, but hooking it up to a switch wouldn't be bad. for a shtf moment while driving. http://www.smartgaug...uk/alt_mod.html http://www.smartgaug.../alt_float.html ---------------------------------------