Advanced Discussion

So does anyone wish to share thier secrets? Only thing i've heard is use iron rod instead of wood for bracing.

I remember reading about this somewhere, but I can no longer find the information. I'm wondering if any of the EEs we have can give me some insight as to the benefits other than cost and how to implement them into my system. This will mainly be used for control of alarm accessory channels. Thanks!

I am thinking about buying some off E-bay and they have good feedback and all but is this brand name any good? Havent heard too much as far as quality and who's line of Dynamat/Sound suppressing material to know which to get? All I know is I need something because my car rattles everywhere inside and the trunk is falling apart. Need advice!! The listing on e-bay is {http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5828796442&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1} That seems either kinda cheap or just a good deal! They always have a list of bidders so it might be good but I don't know.50 Sq.Ft for #49.99 + 19.99 to ship. What ya'll think? Thanks

Alright all you smart folk, here's what I am wanting: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=180-960 I want to be able to run that directly off of my car's electrical system. You can see from the description that it runs off of 6VDC from the included power supply. So, what would be needed is a power supply to convert the 12VDC from my electrical system to 6VDC. I've also had something about Zener Diodes mentioned to me....but I'm not really sure what those are all about. Anybody want to give me a quick run down of the best way to go, and how each is accomplished (i.e. what a simple yet effective PS design would consist of, what Zener diodes do and if they …

just something i was looking at today. The basic highpass filter will allow for higher peak voltages then the input has. basically -- if you put in a 1V peak square wave, you can get peaks of 2V from a highpass filter. this is easy to show with RC circuits such as a simple cap inline with the speaker. Square wave goes to 1V. cap charges to 1V. square wave goes to -1V, cap is still charged to 1V. voltage across speaker is now -2V. cap will charge to -1V, square wave chages to +1V, speaker sees +2V. note that RMS power is lower, but peak power is higher. ----------------------------------------------------------------- This brings up two issues: 1.) the peak values c…

just a small topic that always seems to be explained without being explained. --------------------------------------------- amplifier Gain and DMMs. Most guides that talk about gains and DMMs are a bit simplified. you may want a higher or lower gain. Obviously to set the gain you would need to ask yourself what you are trying to accomplish by setting the gain! but this is overlooked in most guides. --------------------------------------------- ** most guides assume you want maximum undistorted power output from the amp ** Q -- What's wrong with that??? A -- you may not want maximum power. ---------------------------------------------- When you wouldn't want maximum powe…

I drive a reg cab truck. After hearing a friends Xterra and the relativly good imagining and sound stage I have decided to re work my set up. I will be keeping the CDT HD set, I am still very happy with them. Now, I need some Ideas for staging. Kicks are out of the question unfortunatly, atleast for now. I have been reading many, man sites about the topics of phase, Imaging, and sound stage. Most have stated the obvious of rear fill cancellation(doenst apply to me), phasing expecally in the upper freq. ranges, and the best locations for your sound stage. This has led me to think that If I could angle my comp set more that the sound would be better. I see the glassed …

I guess I'm being really optmistic here, but are there any pieces of software (free, would be nice ) that accurately model horn-loaded speakers in room? I'm trying to model efficiency gains from different types of enclosures, and most modeling software comes painfully short... All the research I've done on horns doesn't give actual numbers for efficiency gains; of course, most of that is room/placement dependent, but some general guidelines would be nice to go on...

im building a sealed box for the well of my 87 trans am for 2 rl-p 12s. i'm having a bit of trouble getting 1.25 cubic feet for each speaker but i think i've found a way. however, im not sure if it will screw the sound up. im using a single chamber, not one for each speaker. does if matter if i have a bit more of the airspace on one side of the box? http://thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php...threadid=306257 here is the link to the plans. what i want to do is extend the bottom section so that it comes over further at the bottom, where it sits way down in the well. the dimension on there that says 22 1/2 i want to extend to the left side of the box about 2.5 or 3 inches.…

hey guys i have a quick question. what is the benifit of tuning your box closer to the res. freq of the car instead of to the sub? in spl competitions?

I am burping my loudest freq below the tuning of the port. My only question is, how much lower should I tune the port to? I burp the loudest at 47, port is tuned to 52 Would tuning it at 45 be okay?

well my budget is almost together to rebuild my system I have a alpine 7998 deck. I don't listen to my music very loud usally but I still want good clean sound. I need new amps (and subs but they can wait). Should I go with a higher power amp 100-150+ watt per channel and use the passive crossovers or sould I get a 40-60+ 4 channel and bi amp them with the deck 3way Xover. I have MB Quart 6.5 comp. rated @50-120. If there is a better option I am open to suggestions. I have 50 watts going to the passives and it is close to loud enough but I want more bass and more head room for when I get new subs.

would someone like to try to explain the effects that I am starting to notice with the serious increase in humidity and temperature? I have a faint Idea, but I was curious to hear from more experienced SPL'ers

My box is 36w x 19 d x 15.5h Port is 5.5x14 and 13.75" long I burp at 49hz, which I have found is the loudest in testing. Initially, I had the subs wired to 1 ohm, and the total rise came to about 3 ohms. I then strapped the amps, and wired the subs together, to get a load of .25 to each amp. I went up about a db and a half from doing this. I want to get my rise lower, but have no idea where to start. If you guys have any ideas to help me, any would be appreciated.

This passed weekends comp got me thinking. In BBP6 and WinISD the F3 for my NAR (Amplitude Responce) is 50.8hz, so at the comp I expected somewhere over that to be my "loudest" tone. When I did the sweep, why was 37hz? Could it have to do with the cabin of my truck? Next question, the New SI's F3 per BBP6 is [email protected] cu.ft. Wouls the "loudest be even lower then before or again does the "resonant frequency" set around 37 for the "loudest" tone. I am at a loss. My knowledge of these things is very limited and I always want to learn more

I am working on my enclosure, and am wondering which way to face the sub. I have 2 options with my limited space, either face the back side of the back seats, or face the rear hatch glass. If I go towards the rear hatch, I cant get much of an angle towards the glass, it would be about 3" below the horizontal line. Sub in question will be a 12" RL-p. MattB

ok..i've used the caluclators and figured out what the values are..but i have no idea on what to buy to achieve those values.. what i'm building.. a third order 18db octave @ 4ohm low pass passive x-over. the values for which are.. 7.9mH coil 441uF capacitor 2.65mH coil so, what do i need to achieve these values (other then the obvious..duh) i went to PE, and listed some stuff, but evidently it's incorrect. yeah, i'm being a touch lazy, but i need somone to list the part numbers and where they got them. i'd also like an explaination as to how they achieved those values (not the ones above, i'm still reading the12volt.com on that) but how they achieved getting the values i…

which do you guys prefer, facing the driver seat facing the roof facing the rear or lifted and downward pointing...

Lil while back I'd tried a TL in my grand am. Kind of just to do it... I don't recall the exact specs on it, though it is still in the garage, so I could measure as need be. It twas not very large. I ran it with a Vega Vega 12" at the time. Very clean nice sound, not so much extension... but I believe the line was too short. The reason I stopped running it was that with higher musical notes (low 40's - upper 50's), the woofer would bottom out. Only in this enclosure had I ever had this thing bottom out. I tried a Visonik 126S4 that I'd had laying around, similar wattage (250rms actual), and very similar results. Point of the thread: What kind of EBP or mechanical propert…

Welp guys.... The install im doing i would like to incorporate the sub between the amps [amp][amp] If I make the enclosure 14x14x14 i have the perfect amount of space. Just enough for the sub and just enough to fit between both amps. The box will be polyfilled, but should I do the 14x14x14 cube ? Its not like the kid needs as much SPL as he can get, just something with a lil umph.

I've grown concerned about something that I see all over the audio forums: People stating that tuning a ported enclosure has nothing to do with the woofer. Couple of quetions / points to discuss: How many here believe this? For those that do, why? By that, I mean, because someone else told you so or because you've done some reading somewhere? If so, where... Wouldn't it make sense that the woofer acts upon the port by nature? Considering displacement, excusrion, fs, & emf properties... I'm under the impression that a woofer will interact with the port design, not act independantly. For reasonable / average installations this isn't a big concern I suppose... as the mec…

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I am curious, alot of infinity subs and solobarics and such call for a pretty small ported enclosure volume (less than 1.5 cuft for a 10) If a sub has a recommended enclosure volume for a vented box of 1 cuft, what would happen if you put that sub in a 1.75 cuft enclosure?

check the linky>>> db calculator

Now we will start with : Sealed enclosures : A SEALED enclosure will be the smallest,and is the simplest of enclosures and will have good low frequency extension, but might not have the best low frequency extension. If space is limited. and its a good choice for SQ fans (Sound Quality). PORTED enclosures (Bass Reflex) : A PORTED enclosure will generally have a better low frequency extension for a given response shape,but would require a larger enclosure. If you made the enclosure as small as the sealed enclosure, but ported it to gain the low frequency response, the output would deviate from the desired flat response. Ported enclosures are slightly more difficult to desi…