Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Here is my set up HU - 880PRS Sub - IDQ12 (DVC) Front - HAT "L" 2 way (coming soon) I was thinking of running the 125.2 bridged 4-ohm to the IDQ (350w) 100.4 Channel 1 and 2 to run the tweeters in normal 4-ohm (90w) Channel 3 and 4 bridged 4-ohm into the 6.5" mids (320w) Can I run the 100.4 in regular and bridged mode at the same time? Does this set-up make sence?

Just got my system hooked up today but I have a very annoying whine or hum in the speakers. Its there with the truck running or not, but worse when it is running. I think from reading that this is a ground problem, but I have moved the amplifier ground to a few different places inside the cab of the truck, seat belt, seat mount bolt, I cant get rid of it. Can anyone help?

ive been into car audio for three years mostly kicker but i decided to upgrade i have a rd1750.1 and a sundown nightshade v1 d1 15 i am new to hi end car audio so can someone tell me what voltage my output should be to have my gain set correctly at 2 ohms which is 840 watts and at point five which is 2225 watts please would appreciate the help dont wanna clip my new set up

ok so i figured id give em a try and ordered a h/o alt from db electrical. suppose to be 200a at 1200 rpm n 105a at idle, but wats idle to them? im running a sundown sae 1200 v2 at 1 ohm so around 1500w rms. when im driving down the road the most ive seen voltage drop is about .5 volts on very low hard hitting songs. that part is wat i do like. wat i dont like is when i pull up to a stoplight or stop sign voltage sits at 13.1 with nothing on, 12.6-9 with my lights on. if im in park at idle voltage will sit around 13.9 but if i do anything, roll down a window, turn on the air or heat it drops dramatically, windows pull it down to low 13s(thats one window at a time, rolling…

well just like the topic title suggests i have a problem with my amp. i have 2 2400's and i strapped them to my FI BTL 18. one amp per coil. amps are stable to 2 ohms i have dual 2 ohm coils. now im pretty sure the amps dont truley strap together but they have the slave copy master switch to match gains and xovers well i set them up how the book said and it was workin but just didnt sound like i had 2 amps on the sub. so i started foolin with the switches. well needless to say i messed up onw of the amps and also blew my sub, both coils. now one amp is fine and works perfectly it was the master amp. the slave amp still works but when i turn the LPF up it makes a buzzi…

will the sundown 3000d run 1 ohm stable, and not get hot. im interested in buying it when they restock it. if i can run 2 fi bl's at 1 ohm. and if so will this be to much power.

i was browsing the forums and i noticed that someone used what appeared to be regular steel nuts, bolts and washers as a wire terminal to pass wires from the sub through its enclosure (saw it in the pictures of the guy doing a review on a Fi Q 18" sub). i was wondering if anyone could confirm this as being a good method to pass wires through a sub enclosure, or should i just stop being lazy and cut out a small square in my box and put a factory made terminal to pass wires through. im guessing as long as it's a nice thick bolt with zero resistance there should be no drop in wattage. i was just hoping i could get some feedback on using this method. thanks-phil

Have been looking at the Crescendo 1100.4 & the DC175.4 & somewhat at the new Incriminator Audio's new 4 channel..after reading a few problems with the Crescendos amp's having problems it made me steer away..but I also read quite a bit of positive feedback also, and price is $420 shipped, While DC is ~$600 for a little bit more power.. I have (4) Audiopipe ATX 4060 ST & (4) PWX 6.5 Crescendos. Plan to wire them 2 speakers on each channel.. putting it at 2 ohms output. I wanted to go with the Crescendo Amp, because I read quite a bit of positive feedback about it, and it is in my price range, but if there is quite a bit of problems going on with them I'd …

i need to find 2 amps that will make my 15" solarbarics pound like no other. they hold a max of 2000w and run at 1000w rms. give me suggestions- i wnt to run 1 of the same amp to each.

he sent it cause he knows I am a old RF amp nut, but here is the .pdf link >> http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/press/asset...25punchamps.pdf

a spanish newspaper with chicks wrestling. haha not really but keep reading. First wanna say a BIG thanks to Danssoslow for just sending this to me for nothing. Thanks. now onto pics. its a vulcan VI by hifonics. pretty old school amp. now from what i understand its a 2 channel amp. so im assuming that the red/black are power and ground and the one set of wires are marked - and + so im assumeing the orange is remote and the other set is the other channel? if so which is positive and which is negative? anyway thanks to danssoslow im sure ill put it to use. ohh haven't had a chance to hook it up but will tommorrow for sure. thanks Dustin.

Wanna make a work station radio with a car audio head unit! What do I need to make it work in my basement?

I've got a 2002 Cummins and it has two sets of batterys under the hood and I was wondering could I just run two of the biggest kinetics up front and run my power wire from one of them back to my amp for about 5k I havemt decided yet but is that an option?

I guess the title should be schock sensor but the one i have no has an integrated one. I'm getting ready to put in a PYTHON881XP in the next couple weeks... my alarm I have in right now is a directed automate am5... i have it ziptied to my steering column(I know its a no no)... so where do you guys mount yours?

hi i have been looking at tons of videos all day about how to set gains on a sub amp. i have tried and am completely lost. when i touch the speaker terminals with the DMM it says 0 volts... wtf... super annoying so i cant even get passed the first part in this battle in hell... if anyone can help me out with a easy way to set it let me know asap. also with the subs and everything plugged in and all knobs down i hear no sound from the subs at all as if they are getting no power. AHH!! please help!

ok so my system is almost ready to install just waiting on my ethos to come and i just paid to have my box made which should be done by the first week of oct .. im trying to do the big 3 with a friend me a me and him have never done one b4.. he knos more them me about car audio stuffs so we should be good.. i just went and got some battery terminals at the car audio place in town.. each terminal has two 0 gauge inputs and two 8 gauge inputs it looks like..my battery is a die hard platinum.. it has reg posts like my stock battery had.. my termeinals go rite over the posts.. so what do i do with the stock wires that have that rings on the end? do i cut off that metal ring a…

I have been looking for differant deals to pop up for an amplifier for my next build. For power, I am looking for something close to 1kw at 2 ohm, doesn't have to be exact. The sundown sax-1200d has been an option for me from the beginning. Recently, I noticed that the Stetsom V 1K5 is on sale for pretty close to the same price as the sax-1200d. After alot of research, it appears to me that stetsom amplifiers are pretty good, reliable etc... As far as customer service, I'm sure that sundown would win that category. Either of these two amplifiers would be at the top of my budget. Would I lose anything by going with the Stetsom V 1K5? I know it is capable of a little …

I purchased a used Kicker ZX 750.1 for really cheap that was advertised as working condition but only after the engine is turned on. I figured this problem had to be unique to to the previous owner's car but it isn't. I tested this thing in two vehicles and it turns on with the ignition but only amplifies a signal after the vehicle itself has been turned on. Furthermore, if the car is turned off without completely turning the key it will continue to work as expected. I'm here to see if anybody knows anything about this. If it's a super cheap/easy fix I'm all over it, but more than that I'm just curious as to what's up. Besides this, the amp works exactly as it should…

Hey all, I'm going to buy myself a new headunit my budget is around 250$. So far the ones that catch my eye are the Pioneer premier DEH-p600ub and the Ecipse CD3200. I don't know much about head-units...the pioneer caught my eye because it has a 7 band equalizer while the eclipse only has 3 band. The eclipse caught my eye because it has 5 volt pre-out compared to the pioneers' 4 volt (apparently more volts is better). Visually I like the Eclipse better cause people in Montreal don't seem to have them and looks more classy compared to pioneers blue leds all over the place. I'm hoping someone who knows about hu's can help me out, please help! These are the ebay auctions i w…

I don't want to use any of the wiring that comes from my truck. How would I run new wire and what wires would I have to include? I don't need speaker wires because my amp powers my speakers Head Unit is http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/In-Dash_CD_n_DVD_Receivers/1-DIN_CD_Receiver/KDC-MP342U Truck in sig.

I picked up a 2nd battery today. Wired it + from the front battery to positive on the back battery, Then positive from the back battery to + on the amp. Then with the front battery negative disconnected I connected negative from the back battery to ground on the amp. So with the car being shut off and the front battery negative disconnected my amp is on, I basically have constant power? What am I doing wrong? Do I have to connect both front and back grounds to complete a loop or what? Is there any chance of blowing my amp or anything else by trying it? My remote wire for the amp is hooked up to the deck n I jus don't get why my amp is constantly on when the front isn't ho…

so i was sayin how the sub was making a knocking sound(bottoming out). so i decided to perform an experiment. i setup a -6db 50hz test tone put my radio at volume 35(70%) and i tuned the gain to put out 31.62 volts, which is 1000 watts. next i put in the removed the test tone cd and put the song that made the knocking sound in. looking at the volt meter some parts of the song would jump to over 40volts thats like 1600 watts, now i see why the sub was knocking, obviously that is a clipped signal. why is this happening? if i set my amp with a DMM with a test tone why am i getting a huge signal when i play a song. doesnt make sense and also makes the DMM method for setting g…

i have my Viper 2500.1D on 13' of 1/0 (OFC) power wire and 2' of ground (CCA). I have a 2500W inverter that I am going to install and need to run more wires for. I have a group 49AGM directly under the truck where the amps are. I have some pure copper 2/0ga wiring that im going to use for power and ground. the power inverter and the viper both have dual 4ga inputs for both power and ground instead of single 0ga. what connectors would you recommend for the dual 4 to 2/0 connections? would it be preferred to run the current 0ga to the power inverter and then run new 2/0ga to the battery under the truck? so as im typing this im thinking: it would be best to just use a…

'06 Alpine HUs better than '05? Spec wise they look a lot worse.

ok so i installed my optima up front... what kindda battery do you think i should get to back up the amp i have? (kicker zx2500.1) I was looking at at a powermaster D3100 but idk if that would be overkill or not =(