Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have a dc level 4 (with atomic magnet) on an apk 2500.1 amp. When I play songs with high bass notes like Versace-Drake the amp cuts out and protects itself and stays in protect until I restart my car. I was wondering your guys Input on this problem as of right now I'm at a loss for ideas. I've tested all my wires and they all have power I have a extra battery on top of a 20 farad capacitor so power should not be a problem at all

how are they? do they have good SQ they throw their rated power? do they sound accurate? is it worth to pay the expensive they are?

A carry over from Fordexplorer.net Charging System Basics: The electrical system in an automobile is said to be a 12 volt system, but this is slightly misleading. The charging system in most cars will generally produce a voltage between 13.5 and 14.4 volts while the engine is running. It has to generate more voltage than the battery's rated voltage to overcome the internal resistance of the battery. This may seem strange, but the current needed to recharge the battery would not flow at all if the charging system's output voltage was the same as the battery voltage. A greater difference of potential (voltage) between the battery's voltage and the alternator's output volt…

This is the guts of the radio. capacitore blew on the right side this is the small fuse for the power wire constant... this picture is the wiring there are three wire one is power constant, ground and the third wire is one speakerwire(that runs in the dash) hahah only allowed one speaker nonsense. radio back in the dash. comments... will take pictures of the current set up soon.. should have did a build log

Any recommendations on a trunk mount EQ to get my feet wet with??? I don't need 30 bands; maybe, something with 10 bands to play with. Something with a small footprint...

Wanna make a work station radio with a car audio head unit! What do I need to make it work in my basement?

well just like the topic title suggests i have a problem with my amp. i have 2 2400's and i strapped them to my FI BTL 18. one amp per coil. amps are stable to 2 ohms i have dual 2 ohm coils. now im pretty sure the amps dont truley strap together but they have the slave copy master switch to match gains and xovers well i set them up how the book said and it was workin but just didnt sound like i had 2 amps on the sub. so i started foolin with the switches. well needless to say i messed up onw of the amps and also blew my sub, both coils. now one amp is fine and works perfectly it was the master amp. the slave amp still works but when i turn the LPF up it makes a buzzi…

So my amp is 3500watts and my alt only puts out 90amps....so if i hook those up is my amp gonna draw as much power as it can, or does it only draw a certain amount of power depending on how much i turn up my subwoofer?......................................Actually i just took a look at my amp and their is a level control im guessing for the power of the amp,,,,,,,,,,,,so ill just adjust that,,,,but can anyone tell me what the max rms i should put out ????

checking online i have picked 3 choices... 1. PPI D2000/1 + PPI A600/4 2. Soundstream Tarantula TRX2000.1 and TRX880.4 3. Boston Acoustics GT 28 + GT 42 Which combo would be best? setup would be a so called LOUD SOUND QUALITY type, a good set of fronts, might be 3 ways but with a good sounding loud sub from behind... Thanks for any inputs and experiences shared...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B000E3ZDP0/ref=dp_image_z_0?ie=UTF8&n=172282&s=electronics

i was browsing the forums and i noticed that someone used what appeared to be regular steel nuts, bolts and washers as a wire terminal to pass wires from the sub through its enclosure (saw it in the pictures of the guy doing a review on a Fi Q 18" sub). i was wondering if anyone could confirm this as being a good method to pass wires through a sub enclosure, or should i just stop being lazy and cut out a small square in my box and put a factory made terminal to pass wires through. im guessing as long as it's a nice thick bolt with zero resistance there should be no drop in wattage. i was just hoping i could get some feedback on using this method. thanks-phil

Say I have an amp that has 2 power and ground inputs. Say if I just use one with twice the size power wire is that ok? Or is there some important reason that they are split up to begin with? Fast advice is appreciated.

Man ole Man... i love my new Memphis Mojo Amp... Its so prudy. Heres a pic of it, im gonna be running it at .5ohms so about 3kw. Here it Is.

I have an fi q 12 in a ported enclosure tuned to 32 Hz. Where on the dial is 28-29 Hz so I can set it properly. Also where should I put the lpf? Thanks a lot for the help

so i have 2 18" fully loaded BTLs waiting to be put in with 2 2400 watt rms hifonics amps....1 amp for each sub... but i need to know how many batteries do i need ?? also what brand / model ?? i know XS Power Batteries but which model ..im thinking the HC2400 for each amp ??. i wanna get 1 battery for each amp ... and then 1 battery for my cars electrical... also how many amps does the alternator need to be ... i know i need to upgrade the alternator.... im pretty sure i wanna go with DC Power alternator ive heard nothing but good things about them... what brand ?? where can i get the alternator ?? also what gauge does the speaker wire need to be ?? 12 gauge fine ?? im no…

I don't want to use any of the wiring that comes from my truck. How would I run new wire and what wires would I have to include? I don't need speaker wires because my amp powers my speakers Head Unit is http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/In-Dash_CD_n_DVD_Receivers/1-DIN_CD_Receiver/KDC-MP342U Truck in sig.

Bought an aftermarket alternator from DC power, I put it in and the top OEM braket wold fit the new one. Will the alt be ok with just the bottom screws holding it in?

Alright so I have been waiting to get money for 1/0 wiring and then my friend who is in an automotive electrical class in a local college here messaged me and said that he thinks 4 awg would be big enough for my big 3 Since my alt is only a 70 amp alt and He read that 4 awg should carry up to 150 amps.. At least in that short of a run (1ft-5ft runs) Just wanna make sure if this will work before I buy it in about 45mins. I dont have enough yet for all the 1/0 but I have enough to afford 4 awg if it is good enough now. After he said that i figured well 1/0 can carry more current at a time and quicker.. but.. If my alt only puts out 70 and 4 awg can carry 150.. Is there…

I have been looking for differant deals to pop up for an amplifier for my next build. For power, I am looking for something close to 1kw at 2 ohm, doesn't have to be exact. The sundown sax-1200d has been an option for me from the beginning. Recently, I noticed that the Stetsom V 1K5 is on sale for pretty close to the same price as the sax-1200d. After alot of research, it appears to me that stetsom amplifiers are pretty good, reliable etc... As far as customer service, I'm sure that sundown would win that category. Either of these two amplifiers would be at the top of my budget. Would I lose anything by going with the Stetsom V 1K5? I know it is capable of a little …

the 2500 has two ground and two power inputs that both need to be filled.. how do i do this? getting a second ground is obviously easy, but how can i run a second power wire? do i just get a distrib block? i have a grand cherokee with a stock 160 amp alt. im gonna run 0 ga instead of the 4 i have now.. how do you think i will do as far as power is concerned? electrical risk? i was thinking about just getting a new battery, is it possible to just hook it up as my start up battery or am i better off to run it to the back.. im trying to save money so i would rather not run it back.

So i recently bought a pioneer avic n4 and i hooked it all up and all the unit does is open up with a black screen and when car is the screen will go down...there is no illumination or nothing...although i do here the headunit making some noises....so i know its working...and i have tried a new 30 pin plug and that didnt help.

a spanish newspaper with chicks wrestling. haha not really but keep reading. First wanna say a BIG thanks to Danssoslow for just sending this to me for nothing. Thanks. now onto pics. its a vulcan VI by hifonics. pretty old school amp. now from what i understand its a 2 channel amp. so im assuming that the red/black are power and ground and the one set of wires are marked - and + so im assumeing the orange is remote and the other set is the other channel? if so which is positive and which is negative? anyway thanks to danssoslow im sure ill put it to use. ohh haven't had a chance to hook it up but will tommorrow for sure. thanks Dustin.

I have 2 15" dual Voice Coil Subs. The Subs Are each 2 ohms. Im wondering how can I get a 1 ohm load by wiring them then also how can I get a 2 ohm load. Pictures would help. Thank You

So we finally got some decent weather and have started with my install. I had ordered some knuconcepts 1/0 gauge and it arrived it mail today. I had installed all the sound deadener I had which wasn't enough. I decided to make the positive run with my wire that just so happen to arrive. I was able to complete run so it’s ready for next step. Now I am looking at the rest of my electrical and what I will need. I have 2 XS D3400 on their way. One of which I am thinking of using as my main car battery. (This was the battery recommended off of XS website for my vehicle.) the second will be for my audio system. I want to ensure I use the correct fusing for this install. I b…

I guess the title should be schock sensor but the one i have no has an integrated one. I'm getting ready to put in a PYTHON881XP in the next couple weeks... my alarm I have in right now is a directed automate am5... i have it ziptied to my steering column(I know its a no no)... so where do you guys mount yours?