Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Is a SAX-125.2 amplifier enought for a FI 18'' 1000w sub. Or i should go bigger. New in this stuff and would like some help to decide.

I have a dc level 4 (with atomic magnet) on an apk 2500.1 amp. When I play songs with high bass notes like Versace-Drake the amp cuts out and protects itself and stays in protect until I restart my car. I was wondering your guys Input on this problem as of right now I'm at a loss for ideas. I've tested all my wires and they all have power I have a extra battery on top of a 20 farad capacitor so power should not be a problem at all

first i need to know if theis post should be in this section. i just need to know what type of speaker wire i need. im getting a FI 12" BL, do i get 16 gauge? or 12? how many feet? the amp will be right next to the box so im thinking something like 3-4 feet. the amp wire im thinking about getting is KLM 1/0 Amplifier Installation Kit by Knukonceptz. i also need to know the fuse type my amp will be a Hifonics BXi 1610D 1600W RMS, Brutus BXi Series Class D Monoblock Amplifier is that a good amp?!?!

I knew this day would come but haven't been preparing for it. My battery has passed away. It has been through a lot being the first battery I've had since I got into car audio. I need something new. I am running a JL JX360 2 channel for my mids and highs along with a Hifonics BRZ1200.1D for my BL 15. Its somewhere around a total of 1500-1800 wrms. (When the voltage is up, which hasn't been in a while) I have a Stinger 180 amp alternator installed as well. The dimensions I have to work with are 11"w 8"d 8"h. I was looking at an XS power D3400 or maybe a Kinetic KHC1800. Would these be enough to run as the only battery in the car?? (which is a better choice between the two?…

So seeing as how I've recently become a victim of theft I'm thinking of what I need to do before I even think about installing the new setup I've been working on.. I had the idea of wiring in a hidden switch that is connected to the lock actuator\circuit to the rear cargo area door..This way if someone does get in through other doors and they try to unlock the back to get in and remove stuff, they won't be able to (unless they find the switch..which will be hidden well.) Does this make sense\sound like a decent approach? Obviously an alarm is going in too.

I have been looking around for some suggestion for electrical upgrade on a budget? I have been told to do a big three for voltage drops and light dimming but i am still getting some mixed reviews about that. I was wondering if running a second battery would help with light dimming and voltage drops. Im not really looking to spend more than around 2-300 at this time. Im running a zeus 3000 watt amp to 2 12 inch pioneers. Car is a 2002 honda accord dx.

I sold my eclipse cd8445, so as of now I'm without a hu. I was gonna get the 780mp but most people say the 880prs has so many more features. The 880 is like 300 give or take a few bucks on ebay I believe...now...I know the carputer will be more money, but I've wanted to have one for a while now, and I'm thinking...why buy a 300 dollar hu, and then in a year or 6 months replace it with a carputer? How would this work with my setup? Would it sound as good as the 880? Basically I want It becuase I have like 30 gigs of songs on my pc, so I can just play them from the hd instead of having multiple cds. What do you guys think I should do? If I do the computer, its not gonna be …

http://www.petitiononline.com/hca00001/petition.html heres the original thread on SMD: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...mp;#entry534741

i was looking into getting another HU for my blazer i now have the 860 but i just wanted to try something new and "cool" http://www.cardomain.com/item/CLADXZ955MC how about this jvc? it looks cool but how is the control on it? im not really in need of all the stuff in my 860 like the 3 way and time alignment and all that stuff but i do like the crossovers for the doorspeakers and sub and the control you have on those, and the layout is real easy to learn http://www.crutchfield.com/S-OKeMj9l8Bf1/c...300&I=257KDAVX1 everyone i know has pioneer and i wanted something different although theirs are the 2 series and 3 series and 1 6 series anyone?

has any body used this amp looking for info like clamped power and if it puts out more then rated

he sent it cause he knows I am a old RF amp nut, but here is the .pdf link >> http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/press/asset...25punchamps.pdf

2 sets= 4 mids, 4 tweets, and 2 crossovers I was looking at the Alpine PDX 100.4, But i want other suggestions. BTW, the amp must be a minimum of 4x100watts. Thanks for the help! Joe

HI! My name is Bosco Ruiz, Iam from Nicaragua and I bought 2 TEAM RF 12" 2000 RMS Each sub.... I have a questions. Can I put 1 T20001 For each sub.?? I can not to put 2 T30001, Cause it is too expensive....I have only 1 T20001 but i could to buy another one for those subs. What do u suggest??

This is the guts of the radio. capacitore blew on the right side this is the small fuse for the power wire constant... this picture is the wiring there are three wire one is power constant, ground and the third wire is one speakerwire(that runs in the dash) hahah only allowed one speaker nonsense. radio back in the dash. comments... will take pictures of the current set up soon.. should have did a build log

Ok. So I put the zcon's and the 2500d in. Now when I set the gain using the dd1 till I can get ahold of my friend with the oscope, the voltage goes down to 12.5. I have a mechman 270, big 3 in 0 gauge, ran the pos and neg from front to rear batt in 0 gauge, installed fuse in front, fuse in rear, soldered all connections. Rear batt is a diehard platinum 31m marine agm with 205 reserve, but yet when I turn volume up to around 30 out of 35, amp goes into protect mode and volts drop to 12.5. (Radio was o scoped at 40hz and 1k hz and had no clipping evident)Even at 1500 rpm. Am I missing something or is the saz2500d drawing that much amperage? Also speaker wire was 14 gauge. A…

Alright, read thru the pinned topic for this, seems easy enough..but im doing something wrong.. im usin an old school volt meter but it has "ACV 200 and ACV 500" .. i set it to ACV 200 (AC volts)..the amp is a Sundown SAZ1500D running at 1 ohm so... voltage = sqrt (1500 * 1) voltage = 38.72 ish.. can someone verify that please... so i pop in the 50hz test tone, loud off, bass boost off..volume to 3/4 and I stick the voltmeter to the outputs of the amp.. it tells me 2.8 and up to 5.something at full gain.. something is wrong just not sure what. appreciate any help.

Does anyone know if it is a true remote gain control or just a bass boost? Also if it is a true gain control, will the actual gain on the amp supersede the remote knob? By this I mean no matter how high I crank the remote knob, it will not go past the gain setting on the amp, correct?

Hey guy's. Just doing some research and was wondering if the deka was comparable in power to the xs? I can get the deka for 225 and the xs for 290. The price difference is great but is the quality and power there aswell? Thanks Matt Cusack

If I have one battery, is a good or bad idea to run the negative cable from the amp to the battery? Did the chasis have more resistance than, let say, 14ft of 4 gauge cable? I'm asking that because I read that grounding the amplifier at the battery minimize voltage drop, don't know if that is true.

UPS showed me some love yesterday before I headed into work. Refurbished and doesnt have a scratch on it. The only thing is it didnt have a birthsheet....so I may take it somewhere this week to get it benched. average birthseets range around 320rms x 2 @ 2ohm which is how I'll be running this on 4-4" Dayton midranges.

what type of fuse should i use for the amp to battery power wire (in an inline fuse holder from knuknoceptz). if this helps...the wire is 1/0 gauge, the amp is an saz 1500d, sub is going to be a bl15.

My 97 EB expedition has 4 gauge wire comming to and from the battery. Double that on the power. I am going to replace the ground wire on the bat with 1/0, but the power side is all so beefy I'm not really sure I need to. My deck has a volt meter built in, and I have been playing with it, and wanted to know if you guys think I may need to upgrade the electrical. I have not installed any amps yet and really just want to get a feel for if you think anything else should be upgraded. When idle I sit at about 13.8 V. I don't know how much drop I should expect, but if I open and close all 4 windows at the same time I drop a few tenths of a volt. When I turn on the lights …

I currently have the Big Three (actually the Big Two) in 4 gauge. I was wondering if it was worth the money and time to buy some 1/0 and redo it. I have an AQ1200d, stock battery, stock 145amp alternator Any input in welcomed.

Does anyone have an opinion/experience with these new Soundstream PCA100d or PCA1500d or PCA2000d? Will they hit their numbers? Are they worth 250-350? Thanks all