Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Current set up: PSI P2 15" Hifonics Zeus 3200.1d Wired:2 Ohm While listening to the music yesterday the bass suddenly cut off. Check the wires for amp everything looks secure. Check the subwoofer everything looks good. Amp turns on but sends no music. Is the amp blown?

tested my new spl meter and got my 155 (155.7) and then click nothing, one amp is lit blue and the other is red, is there a way to reset it, i wired them down to .5 ohms strapped, should i rewire them back to 2 ohms or what can i do to get my bass back. Its the master amp that went into protect. PLEASE HELP.............

I just got my new amp (hifonics bxi 2010d) and wired up, but yet Im getting no sound out put to my subs? :S I know the amp's getting power because the amp power light is on and the amp lights up blue. The thing that confuses me is that my old amp worked just fine and I go to swap amps hook everything up and yet no sound out put. I have no idea what couldcause this. Anyone know whats going on?

My lights don't dim or anything, maybe slightly if i crank it up. but its an 05 Civic, stock alt and battery...is there still any concerns i should be aware of? my amps: JLA 400/4 (using 75x2 currently) class a/b MTX 1501d (using about 1400 watts, 1.33ohm load) class d 4 guage power. Overall, system seems fine, nothing cutting out..etc. The OEM alt is a Mitsubishi, no idea how many amps it pushes but i'd be suprised if its over 100a. if lights don't dim, is it ok?

Hi guys, i have 4AWG power and group wire which i need to get in to my SAZ-1000-d amp? cant seem to find a connector that will go over the cable and into the amp side! Thanks Pez

so i got an offer ona kinetic hc2400 for 200. sounds like a good deal to me.... but i heard if you plan on running a H.O. alternator it will kill the kinetic batteries. Is this true? I wont know if i even need an alt untill i get the battery installed.

ive been into car audio for three years mostly kicker but i decided to upgrade i have a rd1750.1 and a sundown nightshade v1 d1 15 i am new to hi end car audio so can someone tell me what voltage my output should be to have my gain set correctly at 2 ohms which is 840 watts and at point five which is 2225 watts please would appreciate the help dont wanna clip my new set up

Looking towards buying a new amplifier for my Fi BTL N2 sometime this summer and looking at my options. I can obviously do as much research on my own as possible but numbers are just numbers, Id like to ask people who have experience with these amplifiers and your opinions on what I should get. I have around 4 different amplifiers that Im currently looking at, all around the same prices. Dont really want to spend over $700 and will buy used if need be. 1. Sundown SAZ-2500D (used) or SAZ-3500D (Refurbished) 2. DD M3a (new) 3. Orion 2500D (Found one locally used) 4. Crescendo BC3500D (new) Any input much appreciated and also FYI, Im running a stock battery upfront, big 3…

I am going to use a memphis 16 PRD 1000.1 amp to power a Fi Q12, I really want this sytem to sound nice so how would this amp work? If there are any better for the same price range please let me know. thanks C memphis Prd 1000.1

will the sundown 3000d run 1 ohm stable, and not get hot. im interested in buying it when they restock it. if i can run 2 fi bl's at 1 ohm. and if so will this be to much power.

I want to buy and install an amplifier for a new sound system for a car. I'd like the amplifier to not clip, and I'm willing to sacrifice a little bit of dynamics for extra loudness when I want it. In the world of music production we regularly obtain these goals with an effect called a brickwall limiter. It's basically a special type of compressor that guarantees that the sound never passes a certain threshold. Do they make car audio amplifiers with brickwall limiters (or at least compressors) inside them?

So I need some more power, I did my research and decided to go with Mechman, Called him up and can start by saying his customer service was top notch, hes very friendly and easy to talk to, answered every question I had for him. Heres some photos of the install. It was very straight forward and easy to install, I give the service and product a A+ and would reccomend it to anyone. Yes I know its dirty under the hood but I had no time to clean it so on with the photos =] Stock Alt removed the plastic engine cover Pulled the OEM Alt moved a couple things and the re-install starts another shot all back together and the test Once again I couldent be happier with the eas…

So I'm about to purchase a second battery for my car. My questions are the following. Only one fuse is needed (just like in my current setup, same one I currently have)? and it still goes between the last battery and the amplifier, no more than 12" away from amp, correct? The batteries are very close to each other (trunk), do they need to have their black (ground) terminals connected to each other or can each battery have their own ground? (I know for the red (positive) they must be connected to each other or else this wouldn't work). No problems if my main battery is a D2400 and my second is a D3100? After plugging in the second battery, should I let the car ac…

So my amp is 3500watts and my alt only puts out 90amps....so if i hook those up is my amp gonna draw as much power as it can, or does it only draw a certain amount of power depending on how much i turn up my subwoofer?......................................Actually i just took a look at my amp and their is a level control im guessing for the power of the amp,,,,,,,,,,,,so ill just adjust that,,,,but can anyone tell me what the max rms i should put out ????

I'm currently in the process of designing/setting up my first system. I currently have a pioneer deh-p690ub head unit but haven't been able to figure out all of its features yet. Can i have an active front stage with this headunit? I have a set of focal 6.5 V2 polyglass components, not installed, but i'm thinking about returning them to tweeter because after browsing through the threads here I'm sure i can get a better front stage for the money. Any input would be helpful, thanks.

Just got my system hooked up today but I have a very annoying whine or hum in the speakers. Its there with the truck running or not, but worse when it is running. I think from reading that this is a ground problem, but I have moved the amplifier ground to a few different places inside the cab of the truck, seat belt, seat mount bolt, I cant get rid of it. Can anyone help?

Just ordered my crescendo 5500... Great customer service .... Real customer friendly people.... Now i can sit and wait for my Early Birthday gift to myself.....

first i need to know if theis post should be in this section. i just need to know what type of speaker wire i need. im getting a FI 12" BL, do i get 16 gauge? or 12? how many feet? the amp will be right next to the box so im thinking something like 3-4 feet. the amp wire im thinking about getting is KLM 1/0 Amplifier Installation Kit by Knukonceptz. i also need to know the fuse type my amp will be a Hifonics BXi 1610D 1600W RMS, Brutus BXi Series Class D Monoblock Amplifier is that a good amp?!?!

i was looking at epicenters and crossovers and i ran across this model which i think may be what im looking for..it give me the capabilities of a crossover and it also gives me the bass control knob where i can raise and lower the bass from the drivers seat which is what i was wanting from the epicenter..what do you guys think? http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=1254

I need some info on these things..I've ALWAYS added an after market head unit to all my vehicles in the past. I've always though that is the best way if you want a good system. Well, I have the chance to uby an 08 Cadillac cts. Clean as hell and would be by far the nicest vehicle I've ever owned...but I'm a bass head. So questions would be.. If a clean sounding, hard hitting system is my goal will the LOC be the wrong purchase? Maybe I have the wrong idea about these things? If an after market setup was available I wouldn't even be typing this but as far as I can tell it doesn't exist. Appreciate anything you guys can add to this, its killing me that not being able to pu…

Hey I'm gonna try and not make this a versus thread. I'm selling my profile cl1200 (shut up) and am looking for an upgrade. It's going to power 2 10" L5's (ported) so I'm basically looking for a solid 800~1kW dclass @ 1 or 4 ohm. My price range is anywhere from 200-300. Right now my current choices are an Autotek SX-900X. http://www.thezeb.com/p-Autotek-SX-900X-Mo...fier-106630.htm soundstream ega 900d http://www.cardomain.com/item/SSTEGA900D those both do 900w rms at 1ohm or.... an infinity 1210a, 854w (or something) CEA rated at 4ohm...2ohm stable (i think it does 1300 or something). anyhow, they're all relatively the same price. I need some VALID opinions here. …

I currently have the Big Three (actually the Big Two) in 4 gauge. I was wondering if it was worth the money and time to buy some 1/0 and redo it. I have an AQ1200d, stock battery, stock 145amp alternator Any input in welcomed.

I have a dual 1 ohm BL (.75dcr) with no options and need a amp for it. I will do the big 3 and have the stock 130a alternator and battery so it needs to be fairly efficienct. I may add a battery or two in the future but not immediately. Right now im looking at a sundown 1500 (run at .375 ohms), gp3000d (rated 1500@2), crossfire vr2000d (.5 ohm stable, 2000 watts), and zx1500.1 If i did the crossfire i could add another battery right away because of the price. I like the sundown just because its sexy and can tolerate low voltage, i like the gp3000d because it can do 3000@1 if i ever decide to upgrade (though i havent found out how efficient it is), the crossfire is just ch…

ok so i was bumpin' and after a while(10-15min), my fuse popped so i park/turn off the car, go to the back and change my 50amp fuse(got a couple for backup in the car) so then i turn on the car, i start turning up the volume VERY slowly... then I hear and see a BIG spark as if a thunder was in my trunk(the amp is naked)... and electrical smell and smoke went off, but not alot..., so i turn off the car straight up and go take off my rear battery's negative connections... so now idk what to do? what did cause this? and why my fuse popped in the first place(does that sometimes, not the first time)... is it safe to plug things bak? the reason i dindt is because I dont want …

Has anyone ever heard of this brand? SounDigital (amps) They are pretty good !