Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I'm wanting to run my sundown 3000 at .5 ohms and was wondering what I need to add to my electrical or what could help. Right now I have 2 c&d 77 ah in the back, factory batt up front, 220 amp alt, 2 runs of 1awg. Thanks in advance.

Hi. I'm looking into head units and came across a Pioneer MVH-P8200...I noticed in the specs it states 2v output, is this too low? I'm planning on running a sax-125.2 and 1 or 2 sae-1200dv2 (eventually just one more powerful amp). How would this affect power output at the amps and gain settings? Thanks.

I was just given an orion d2400 its powers on but goes into protect then esp then protect again. I opened it up and i dont see anything wrong no fried mosfets in fact i dont see anything fried. Still smells new im gonna have a diagnostic done on it but what do you all think is wrong

hi, i am thinking about getting a jl audio xd600/6 and going 2 way active using my 9887 for the processing. and i plan on using channels 1 and 2 for the tweeters. and 3 and 4 bridged for 1 midbass and channels 5 and 6 for the other midbass. now i am wondering by doing that. will i lose some features such as time alignment? or should it be ok as long as i have the rca's matched up right, thank you. and also i plan on doing the 2 way active this way with that amp because it is going in a truck so space is limited and this is only option that i can think of that can give me the power i want and still keep me within budget. thank you.

alright i found some battery terminals from KnuKonceptz and they hold 1/0 gauge wire. im planning on using them for the big 3 and for my amp install, my question is will they hold a 0 gauge wire? or will i have to just not get a positive terminal? here is the link to the battery terminal

O.k. I will be hooking up my amp (soundstream 2000w monoblock) to my factory h/u via a PAC audio plug-n-play (c2a-chy) harness. The rca voltage isn't fixed and will be adjusted as the radio vol. is increased up to 5 volts. My question is, in order to set the gains on my amp, do I just set by ear with a test tone or get a line driver and have that fixed voltage to set my gain with a dmm. My amp has a range of 300mV-5V max. Thanks guys !

I have a Ford Expedition 2007 I want to apply the Big 3 to my car. I would like to know how many Ft of 1/0 Knukoncepts power wire will I need. Maybe 10ft? Dont really want to have much left overs...

Hey guys i was looking around on ebay and i saw this little gem MKll Version Tripath TA2020 PCB 25w CLass-T amplifier - eBay (item 250628158856 end time Jun-05-10 08:20:12 PDT) What i wondering is that this set doesn't come with any instructions and it doesn't specify exactly what cables it comes with. i want to know what will i need to be able to run this setup. i have a pc power supply that i use to power a pioneer cd player, i was hoping that could work? and if anything that i need , please let me know thank you Brandon. Read more: TA2020 chip amp - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

Like the title suggests, would it be practical to build a tube amplifier from scratch for a subwoofer? i need between 20-40w power @ 25hz 20w is acceptable but the more the better. Looks and size don't matter. Budget is $150

I have been looking at upgrading my electrical system to support my future audio system. I am looking at either XS Power D1200 or Kinetik HC1200 for my main battery replacement. As they are the largest that will fit my factory battery location (as near as I can tell). Upon pricing I found a link to Batteryspec.com which sells Kinetik knockoff batteries named Tempest. Have anyone ever heard of or tried any of those batteries? And are they worth even putting in a vehicle? $124 Tempest or $248 Kinetik (shipped prices). big difference. But is the lower price worth it, that's the question?

Aight i just pick this kenwood kac-9104D off my friend for free and i hooked it up in my car and it goes straight into protection mode with out any subs hooked up any thoughts on what i could be? ImageShack Album - 5 images

Is trading a memphis mclass 1100x1 for a massive n4 2000rms plus $150 a good deal?

Ordered my amp! It's an old school Soundstream Tarantula monoblock. Specs are as follows: Continuously Variable Low-Pass Crossover Three Stage Level Input Indicators Output Clipping Indicators Phase Inversion Switch (0 - 180ﾺ) Selectable Differentially Balanced Line Inputs Fully Balanced PS-2 Input Line Output Gold-Plated 1/ ? Power Connectors Discrete Balanced Class A Drive Boards maximize linearity on low impedance loads Drive Delay 2? eliminates "turn-on" and "turn-off" pops and noises Chassisink? Semiconductors are situated between the circuit board and heat sink for optimal thermal transfer Power Grid? design optimizes current delivery to and from the power supply T…

I own a 2003 sunfire which currently has a 105amp alternator. I was looking to run about 1300rms off it, but I know the alternator isn't big enough. The problem I'm having is that I can't find anyone who builds a high output alternator for my car, and I looked into getting it rebuilt, but I can't do that either. I don't know what to do. Are there any specialists for problems like this, or am I screwed?

Found this PioneerGM-X524 amp with two 12"jbl subs (look like pieces of crap) on craigslist for only $100. i don't really care about the subs, but i was wondering if anyone has ever used this amp and what they have experienced with it? How does it handle heat dissipation after long periods of playing? Is it low quality? Just wondering what people have experienced with it. thanks!

so as stated, i'm still trying to figure out the best amp to get for my subs. i am in search of an amp that will push 1500 rms at 1.5 ohms. ignoring price, just curious as to what amps out there will push that power at that resistance. thanks

Ok so I'm planning on getting a SAZ-1000D amp and I just wanted to know if I'm going to need a new battery or new alternator. I think the alternator in the 2007 Jetta is a 140 amp alt. I did some calculations and I think that is more than enough but I don't know shit (the true :'( ). If I don't I was thinking about getting a XS 5200 ( I think that's the battery) And will I need to upgrade my big 3?

I have a AQ1200d with the clipping indicator on the gain knob, and I noticed that the light blinks earlier than it did before. For example, on a certain song the volume on the HU would be 22 without any clipping. Now at 22 on the same song, it blinks, so I bring it down to 21 and no blinks. I noticed this happened a couple months before also, and it feels like the power of the system is depleting. Is this a sign the electrical is giving out? Right now, I'm running a 150a alternator, big 3, d34 yellowtop for the front only, and 1400rms for the total of the amps.

got a sae1200v2 wired to 1.33 and my mids and lows running off a mb quart pushing 125x4 at 4 ohms will one run on 1/0 awg be enough and just split it inside the car or do i need more than that thanks trying to order wire during 5 dollar shipping from knu

I currently have a 2010 Fi Q12 in a sealed box powered off of a JL 500/1v2. It sounds great, but I want to unleash the sub's full potential by giving it all of it's 1000rms rating. I plan on putting in a high output alternator, so suppling power isn't an issue. The sub is dual 2 ohm, so I can wire it to either 1 or 4 ohm. My question is: Is there a noticeable difference in sound quality if I push an amp at 1 ohm (if stable) vs 4 ohm? The reason I ask is because I was looking at Rockford Fosgate Power amps and the T1000 Constant Power was stable at 1 ohm to 1000rms, while the T1500 Constant Power was capable of 1000rms at 4 ohm. While money isn't a big concern I woul…

I just got my new amp (hifonics bxi 2010d) and wired up, but yet Im getting no sound out put to my subs? :S I know the amp's getting power because the amp power light is on and the amp lights up blue. The thing that confuses me is that my old amp worked just fine and I go to swap amps hook everything up and yet no sound out put. I have no idea what couldcause this. Anyone know whats going on?

Currently I'm running off ALL stock electrical in my 99 Grand Am. I found an extra car battery in the garage the other day, and got to wondering. I know that deep cell batteries such as the optimas and kinetics are optimal, but would a regular crank battery help my electrical system out at all? It's not reccommended I know, but I have it and if it would help then I don't see why not until I do get a deep cell. Additional Info: Big 3 is NOT done yet. Running a 1000w Memphis Class D @ 1ohm 1 run of 1/0 power to a dist. block in the trunk with a run of 4g to the sub amp and a run of 8g to the mid/highs amp. Got the 1/0 ground from the amp to chassis Stock batt and alt

so... i'm sitting in my house for hours, its getting late so i open my garage and too pull my truck in and i notice my amp was still on.. but there was no key in the ignition or anything.. so i'm like what the fuck? i pop my key in and click it over.. head unit doesn't turn on but my amp is still on.. so i pop my hood and unhook my neg on my batt, amp stays on, unhook the pos, amp goes off. Why did this happen?

If I wanted to run say.. 3k at 1ohm would a 170amp alt and a yellow top in the back be sufficient? With the stock battery up front and the big 3 done obviously.

okay i have a boss 1600 watt amp hook up to 2 10" CVT kickers, sealed box, in a 2007 Ford F-150 i know that there is a lot of forums disusing this same topic but i don't seam to understand. What should my Input Lever, bass boost, and Frequency