Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have a Ford Expedition 2007 I want to apply the Big 3 to my car. I would like to know how many Ft of 1/0 Knukoncepts power wire will I need. Maybe 10ft? Dont really want to have much left overs...

Hey guys, I'm buying an Alpine IVA-D310 and I'm hoping to get a nice 3-way active setup going. I found the h/u for a good price lightly used, not really willing to spend the 500+ I have on past h/u's. a I was trying to find an Alpine PXA-H701 but I can't find one so maybe someone could suggest a comparable eq that could be controlled with the touch screen? Also I just want to make sure this is a good unit for my situation. As far as the 3-way active setup, I have an older eclipse ea4000, but I'm willing to sell to get another 4 channel and a 2 channel, or just add another 2 channel. I do want the amps to match though so suggestions would be great. I'm on a budget at the m…

O.k. I will be hooking up my amp (soundstream 2000w monoblock) to my factory h/u via a PAC audio plug-n-play (c2a-chy) harness. The rca voltage isn't fixed and will be adjusted as the radio vol. is increased up to 5 volts. My question is, in order to set the gains on my amp, do I just set by ear with a test tone or get a line driver and have that fixed voltage to set my gain with a dmm. My amp has a range of 300mV-5V max. Thanks guys !

Hey guys i was looking around on ebay and i saw this little gem MKll Version Tripath TA2020 PCB 25w CLass-T amplifier - eBay (item 250628158856 end time Jun-05-10 08:20:12 PDT) What i wondering is that this set doesn't come with any instructions and it doesn't specify exactly what cables it comes with. i want to know what will i need to be able to run this setup. i have a pc power supply that i use to power a pioneer cd player, i was hoping that could work? and if anything that i need , please let me know thank you Brandon. Read more: TA2020 chip amp - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

Aight i just pick this kenwood kac-9104D off my friend for free and i hooked it up in my car and it goes straight into protection mode with out any subs hooked up any thoughts on what i could be? ImageShack Album - 5 images

Ordered my amp! It's an old school Soundstream Tarantula monoblock. Specs are as follows: Continuously Variable Low-Pass Crossover Three Stage Level Input Indicators Output Clipping Indicators Phase Inversion Switch (0 - 180ﾺ) Selectable Differentially Balanced Line Inputs Fully Balanced PS-2 Input Line Output Gold-Plated 1/ ? Power Connectors Discrete Balanced Class A Drive Boards maximize linearity on low impedance loads Drive Delay 2? eliminates "turn-on" and "turn-off" pops and noises Chassisink? Semiconductors are situated between the circuit board and heat sink for optimal thermal transfer Power Grid? design optimizes current delivery to and from the power supply T…

Ok so I'm planning on getting a SAZ-1000D amp and I just wanted to know if I'm going to need a new battery or new alternator. I think the alternator in the 2007 Jetta is a 140 amp alt. I did some calculations and I think that is more than enough but I don't know shit (the true :'( ). If I don't I was thinking about getting a XS 5200 ( I think that's the battery) And will I need to upgrade my big 3?

Is trading a memphis mclass 1100x1 for a massive n4 2000rms plus $150 a good deal?

so as stated, i'm still trying to figure out the best amp to get for my subs. i am in search of an amp that will push 1500 rms at 1.5 ohms. ignoring price, just curious as to what amps out there will push that power at that resistance. thanks

got a sae1200v2 wired to 1.33 and my mids and lows running off a mb quart pushing 125x4 at 4 ohms will one run on 1/0 awg be enough and just split it inside the car or do i need more than that thanks trying to order wire during 5 dollar shipping from knu

i added a yellow top in the rear today and did the big three. i wired the second batt in parallel + to + and - to - then ran my power to the amp off the rear positive. after i hooked everything up i noticed the the red batt light on the dash below the check engine like was glowing red and the emergency brake light stays on even when its off and these didn't do it before i installed everything... and on top of that my power steering when out (i know it doesnt have anything to do with the batts but just wanted to add that too...lol) any suggestions why the light would still be on?? Oh and my check engine light is on too but that was already on before i installed everyt…

Found this PioneerGM-X524 amp with two 12"jbl subs (look like pieces of crap) on craigslist for only $100. i don't really care about the subs, but i was wondering if anyone has ever used this amp and what they have experienced with it? How does it handle heat dissipation after long periods of playing? Is it low quality? Just wondering what people have experienced with it. thanks!

I have a AQ1200d with the clipping indicator on the gain knob, and I noticed that the light blinks earlier than it did before. For example, on a certain song the volume on the HU would be 22 without any clipping. Now at 22 on the same song, it blinks, so I bring it down to 21 and no blinks. I noticed this happened a couple months before also, and it feels like the power of the system is depleting. Is this a sign the electrical is giving out? Right now, I'm running a 150a alternator, big 3, d34 yellowtop for the front only, and 1400rms for the total of the amps.

If I wanted to run say.. 3k at 1ohm would a 170amp alt and a yellow top in the back be sufficient? With the stock battery up front and the big 3 done obviously.

Simple question really. I know setting your gain with HU at around 75% is going to give you the best voltage output without distortion from your HU to your amp. That being said, with my current Grand Cherokee Limited infinity stock speakers 75% sounds like ass. (stock speakers get too loud) Btw, I'm setting the gain for my sub amp a RD 1750.1 at .5 ohms to a Treo SSX 12 with a Shuriken BT100 in the back. All 0 gauge and big 3 is done. HU is Alpine CDA-9886 with Subwoofer level and Bass/Treble. Also has a HPF which I'm not too sure actually does anything. I thought it would keep bass from going to my stock speakers? That's besides the point. Basically, my question is if …

I just got my new amp (hifonics bxi 2010d) and wired up, but yet Im getting no sound out put to my subs? :S I know the amp's getting power because the amp power light is on and the amp lights up blue. The thing that confuses me is that my old amp worked just fine and I go to swap amps hook everything up and yet no sound out put. I have no idea what couldcause this. Anyone know whats going on?

Currently I'm running off ALL stock electrical in my 99 Grand Am. I found an extra car battery in the garage the other day, and got to wondering. I know that deep cell batteries such as the optimas and kinetics are optimal, but would a regular crank battery help my electrical system out at all? It's not reccommended I know, but I have it and if it would help then I don't see why not until I do get a deep cell. Additional Info: Big 3 is NOT done yet. Running a 1000w Memphis Class D @ 1ohm 1 run of 1/0 power to a dist. block in the trunk with a run of 4g to the sub amp and a run of 8g to the mid/highs amp. Got the 1/0 ground from the amp to chassis Stock batt and alt

so... i'm sitting in my house for hours, its getting late so i open my garage and too pull my truck in and i notice my amp was still on.. but there was no key in the ignition or anything.. so i'm like what the fuck? i pop my key in and click it over.. head unit doesn't turn on but my amp is still on.. so i pop my hood and unhook my neg on my batt, amp stays on, unhook the pos, amp goes off. Why did this happen?

I currently have a 2010 Fi Q12 in a sealed box powered off of a JL 500/1v2. It sounds great, but I want to unleash the sub's full potential by giving it all of it's 1000rms rating. I plan on putting in a high output alternator, so suppling power isn't an issue. The sub is dual 2 ohm, so I can wire it to either 1 or 4 ohm. My question is: Is there a noticeable difference in sound quality if I push an amp at 1 ohm (if stable) vs 4 ohm? The reason I ask is because I was looking at Rockford Fosgate Power amps and the T1000 Constant Power was stable at 1 ohm to 1000rms, while the T1500 Constant Power was capable of 1000rms at 4 ohm. While money isn't a big concern I woul…

I have a Autotek MM1400.1D and Autotek MM75.4 in my truck. I leave my truck parked for a few days at a time at school. The 1400 goes into protect mode when I turn my truck on after its been sitting for a few days (I leave the radio on all the time), but when I turn my radio off then on again everything is okay. I can turn the truck off and on after the amplifier is off of protect, and it turns on like normal. What could be the cause of this?

i want to have a test bench that i can test subs and amps and speakers on maybe even one that i can test how many true rms watts an amps is i have an extra head unit and some speakers i can hook up and a couple amps that need testing i just dont want to pull out my system to test them. how would i go about setting up a test bench? what do i need to set it up if someone has one can you take a video of it and show how you hooked yours up? please and thank you

okay i have a boss 1600 watt amp hook up to 2 10" CVT kickers, sealed box, in a 2007 Ford F-150 i know that there is a lot of forums disusing this same topic but i don't seam to understand. What should my Input Lever, bass boost, and Frequency

How do you turn off the demonstration mode???

I have a Dual 2 ohm sub 1500 wRMS.. so it can be wired at 1 ohm or 4 ohms. I have two 1 ohm stable Autotek 1400s.. They can be linked using the MXL-100 but then I can only put a 2 ohm load on the "strapped" amp set up.. so if I run the sub on the strapped setup at with the sub at 4 ohms ill only be getting 1400 watts. Which is what I would get if I run a single amp on the sub at . Think I could run a amp to each coil if I set the outputs of the amps with a DMM? Would this cause problems? Thus giving me 1000 watts per coil and 2000 watts for the sub all together..

i just ordered a stinger digital volt meter and my question is ... where would be the best place to wire it to? the starter batt, the amp, the radio? im just not sure. any help would be appreciated