Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Here's what i have Excessive Amperage 180 amp alt. 110 at idle big three plus more doen in 1/0 ga optima yellow 19 feet 1/0 ga to the trunk 5 inches of 1/0 from amp to ground MTX thunder elite 1501d during testing yesterday i found that on the voltmeter mounted in the dash (aftermarket) it would drop down to 12.3 and lower during a romp on the new xcon. i haven't tested at the amp yet but shouldn't the volt meter be a good indication of the drop in the rear? the alt tested out good the last time we had it benchtested by excessive. any clues or ideas?

Simple question really. I know setting your gain with HU at around 75% is going to give you the best voltage output without distortion from your HU to your amp. That being said, with my current Grand Cherokee Limited infinity stock speakers 75% sounds like ass. (stock speakers get too loud) Btw, I'm setting the gain for my sub amp a RD 1750.1 at .5 ohms to a Treo SSX 12 with a Shuriken BT100 in the back. All 0 gauge and big 3 is done. HU is Alpine CDA-9886 with Subwoofer level and Bass/Treble. Also has a HPF which I'm not too sure actually does anything. I thought it would keep bass from going to my stock speakers? That's besides the point. Basically, my question is if …

I have a Dual 2 ohm sub 1500 wRMS.. so it can be wired at 1 ohm or 4 ohms. I have two 1 ohm stable Autotek 1400s.. They can be linked using the MXL-100 but then I can only put a 2 ohm load on the "strapped" amp set up.. so if I run the sub on the strapped setup at with the sub at 4 ohms ill only be getting 1400 watts. Which is what I would get if I run a single amp on the sub at . Think I could run a amp to each coil if I set the outputs of the amps with a DMM? Would this cause problems? Thus giving me 1000 watts per coil and 2000 watts for the sub all together..

i added a yellow top in the rear today and did the big three. i wired the second batt in parallel + to + and - to - then ran my power to the amp off the rear positive. after i hooked everything up i noticed the the red batt light on the dash below the check engine like was glowing red and the emergency brake light stays on even when its off and these didn't do it before i installed everything... and on top of that my power steering when out (i know it doesnt have anything to do with the batts but just wanted to add that too...lol) any suggestions why the light would still be on?? Oh and my check engine light is on too but that was already on before i installed everyt…

I have a Autotek MM1400.1D and Autotek MM75.4 in my truck. I leave my truck parked for a few days at a time at school. The 1400 goes into protect mode when I turn my truck on after its been sitting for a few days (I leave the radio on all the time), but when I turn my radio off then on again everything is okay. I can turn the truck off and on after the amplifier is off of protect, and it turns on like normal. What could be the cause of this?

Anyone have experience or opinions on Memphis amps? I'm considering a 5 channel to run some comps and a sub. What are Memphis comparable to? Thanks

i want to have a test bench that i can test subs and amps and speakers on maybe even one that i can test how many true rms watts an amps is i have an extra head unit and some speakers i can hook up and a couple amps that need testing i just dont want to pull out my system to test them. how would i go about setting up a test bench? what do i need to set it up if someone has one can you take a video of it and show how you hooked yours up? please and thank you

Hi, I just received a new sundown sae-1200dv2..Hooked it up, runs fine however the crossover is not working properly. My current setup consists of the stock head unit ('06 tahoe) with a Scosche LOC-80 line out converter with the gains set around 85%. I was running a directed 1200/5 before and the setup worked fine. However now using the sae when I turn the LPF all the way down I still hear vocals coming out of my subs. I was told this is because my old amp used a 24dB slope, and the sundown amp uses 12dB. I have no idea where to go from here. Any suggestions please?

my friend has a 92 ford taurus with a 130 amp alternator and wants to upgrade his system to a audiopipe 15001d is his electrical sufficient enough for that amp or would he need a second battery in the trunk

Everything was working perfectly til yesturday when I took out my batterys ground and added another ground wire, when I turned the car back on my voltage gauge and both amps powered up but the HU didn't light up at all and started beeping really fast for the first few seconds then stopped, I hit the reset button on the HU and now nothing powers up (HU, amps, voltage gauge)...I checked both fuses on the amp (1 fuse on red power wire, 1 glass fuse on yellow "back up" wire) both were replaced and I've checked the necessary fuses in the interior fuse box with no luck... I've already emailed eclipse with no response in 3 days Im guessing that because they shut down all US oper…

I'm wondering why when I changed from 300w @ 4 ohms on my amp, to 600w @ 2 ohms I havn't noticed an increase in current draw. I just picked up a couple Z15s off a seller on here that listed them as DVC4 ohm, and I'm only running one of them due to lack of power/trunk space. I have it wired up to my sae1000d in parallel to get a 2 ohm load. I just pulled a 2 12s out that were wired @ a 4 ohm load on the amp, so I'm going from the 300w @ 4ohm to 600w @ 2ohm. I didn't adjust the gain because the voltage is the same at about 35 volts. But since I'm doubling the amount of wattage being used, shouldnt it be pulling 2 times as much current? The output is about the same as the 2 …

Im looking for a good reliable amp with will do at least 1500 RMS at 1 ohm at 12v and be as efficiant as possible. No more than 2000 RMS at 1 ohm. I have my mind set on a RF T1500.1BD but Im open to new ideas.

ok o i know how to wire an second batt but my question is about the fusing part... this is what i was planning on doing and please somebody correct me if im wrong or if i need to add another fuseor fuses + from starter batt to + rear batt - from start batt to - rear batt (thats all 0 gauge) then + from rear batt with 0 gauge wire, fuse holder,and fuse to my sub amp then + from rear batt with 4 gauge wire with 4 gauge fuse holder to my front stage speaker amp that mean no fuse under the hood and no fuse b/w batts would that be ok??

Hey guys I am looking into buying the above listed amp (orion cobalt cs 500.5) but for some reason I can't find the specs for this amp. So far the ONLY specs I have found but NOT confirmed are RMS Power at 2 Ohms: -1 W x 50 Epinions.com - Search Results: Orion Cobalt $ 500 _5_Amplifier___Cobalt_CS_500_5 (whatever that means) and 50x4@4ohm and 200x1@ xxOHM basically if it is 50x4@4ohm that is good but if it is 200x1@4ohm that isn't good lol. so if ANYONE has better Google skills then me please help me out or if anyone can verify with past experiences or a manual that would be awesome! and here is a pic of it! thanks Kenneth

Just installed my cda-9886 and it plays the radio but on cd's it shows that its playing but no sound. Same with ipod. I'm thinking it has to do with it possibly beig a faulty cd player... which is ganna piss me off. Any ideas?

...a 4 channel amp w/ all 4 channels being used? http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/In-Dash_CD_n_DVD_Receivers/1-DIN_CD_Receiver/KDC-MP342U

Hi all, My question is a daily/Competing question. it has to do with the Street classes in DB drag. in street A they only allow One (1) battery in the stock location. which is fine, for competing and doing the whole burp it and go thing. but with an saz-3000 i feel i will need more than one battery for daily driving and for the other organization im competing in Midwest SPL (no battery restrictions). so my question is what is the best way to do this? safely of course. My initial thought was to have a sort of buss bar for positive and negative (this may get complicated so bear with me). I will run one 2/0 welding cable from the front battery to the trunk Buss bars …

i just ordered a stinger digital volt meter and my question is ... where would be the best place to wire it to? the starter batt, the amp, the radio? im just not sure. any help would be appreciated

Anybody have any experience with these VMAX Charge Tanks - Audio ? Local audio shop said they have been approached to carry the line.

I finally got my system bought and all put together today!! 2 2 0hm 12 inch L7s Kicker zx 1500 streetwires powerstream 0/1 300A anl fuse optima redtop so the problem is... i turn my truck on, system turns on fine, as i turn the bass up, it shuts off, i turn it down, it gradually comes back on after a few seconds. And does the same thing each time. i grounded it to the seatpost bolt ( which i found out briefly agok, IS NOT ATTACHED TO THE FRAME) i Wired the subs down to 1 ohm each, equalling a 2 ohm load, but the weird thing is, is that the12volt.com said to wire it one way (for 2 ohm load) and kicker said to wire another way?????? so i went with this way- as oppossed to …

I have just got a btl 18 fully loaded and am now looking for a amp and was wondering witch would be better one? I will be running all Knukonceptz 1/0 awg fleks wire with a big 3 upgrade with a new xs batt onder the hood so what amp would be the best thank you very much !

I have a friend that's willing to work on a damaged eclipse 3242 that I have. He needs parts and can't find what he needs in the US. Here's the email I got from him, which is all Greek to me. If you know of a place to get these in the US let me know. Or if you know of an equivalent part I can use instead, that would be great. Hey Mospec is the company name. From what I found its a russian company that might not be arround anymore. I found a company that has F20C10A and F20C10C and the spec's say they are the same. but im not fully sure....both are SwitchMode Dual Fast Recovery Power Rectifier, 200V ,12A, 65c -150c, 3pin TO-220AB I.C's. You need 2 of each just to make sur…

I have a PDX 4.100 and (2) 6.5 Alpine Type R component sets, what do i set the input channel too? I think 1+3/2+4 but the way Alpine worded this shit on the manual has me lost. I just want it so each 6.5 gets 100wrms. "Setting this switch to 1 + 3/2 + 4 will sum the CH-1 and CH-3 input and send it to CH-3 while the CH-2 and CH-4 inputs are summed and sent to CH-4" Thanks guys.

Hi everyone, I need some help tweaking my humble system lol. I have a JVC KW AVX820 http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q311/macuser74/The%20Bitch/DSC09965.jpg?t=1271260441 kicker 08ks6502 Component system with two woofers, two tweeters, and two crossover networks Symmetrical 12dB/octave high-pass-12dB/octave low-pass crossover/protection network with 3-position tweeter attenuation 75 Watts RMS (150 Watts peak) power handling with 4-ohm impedance 35 Hz-21kHz frequency response 2 Kicker 07cvr124: 12-inch CompVR Subwoofer with 4-ohm impedance Injection-molded cone with 360-degree back bracing and aluminized coating; ribbed Santoprene surround 400 Watts RMS (800 Watts peak) …

I've got a P3002 that was missing the chrome cover when I bought it. I've searched all over, RFs site, watched ebay for about a month and never seen one. Anyone know where I could find one, or maybe point me in the right direction? Obviously its just cosmetic, but I'm in the process of a major rebuild, and am going to have my amps showcased, so it would be nice to have the chrome cover for it. Thanks for the help.