Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Trying to get my brother a decent HU with at least 4 volt preouts, ipod combatibility that works and with connector included preferably, and a decent user interface. Needs to be under $160 after shipping. I've looked at just about everything and I'm stuck between these two. A Pioneer Premier DEH-410UB or Clarion CZ500. The only bad thing about the pioneer is it has terrible control reviews (thumbstick very sensitive etc.) which is why I even looked at the clarion. Clarion: CZ500 - Clarion In-Dash CD/MP3/WMA Receiver, Front Panel Aux-In, Bluetooth Pioneer: DEH-P410UB - Pioneer Premier MP3/WMA/WAV/iTunes AAC Reciever ALSO, very open to any suggestions anyone might have! Loo…

What do I need to get XM Radio working with this deck?

I was going through Incriminator Audio's site, and checked out their amplifiers. I noticed that they look awfully similar to the Sundown amps. Just wondering if Sundown makes Incriminator's amps. Tried searching and didn't come up with anything.

does it make a difference using 10 gauge speaker wire and 14, as far as performance goes? running to L7s off a kicker 1500.1

After retihinkin my budget I think Im going to go with one sa8, only problem is I cant seem to find many small amps for 400-600 rms. Anybody have a suggestions? I see kicker has a 600 and so does alpine but there lots of$$$

im running 0 gauge, from redtop, to a kicker 1500. which the battery terminals are 2 i believe. more or less, am i gonna be using power if i use gauge reducers?

Hello SSA! I am selling my Type-R to a friend soon, and getting a Soundstream T5-10 from another friend. I just sold the amp I was using on the R so I could buy a new amp for it, but now this opportunity has presented itself. I am looking for an amp that can do 800-1000 watts at 1 ohm, for around $200. I've been looking around, but all the ones i've found have been Maxxsonics products, which never really do their rated power. Any suggestions from you guys would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Hooking my brother up with my 15" Fi Q (basic) and its being powered by a RD 1000.1D doing 1000 at 1 ohm. Looking to get an amp kit for him and I can't remember whether or not to use 4 gauge power wire or higher? Also, the amp has 30Ax3 fuses for a total of 90 amps so I'm assuming I need a 90 amp fuse for the power cable? Reason I'm asking is because the knukonceptz kit I was looking at comes with a 120 amp fuse. Just a few simple questions.

Alright, read thru the pinned topic for this, seems easy enough..but im doing something wrong.. im usin an old school volt meter but it has "ACV 200 and ACV 500" .. i set it to ACV 200 (AC volts)..the amp is a Sundown SAZ1500D running at 1 ohm so... voltage = sqrt (1500 * 1) voltage = 38.72 ish.. can someone verify that please... so i pop in the 50hz test tone, loud off, bass boost off..volume to 3/4 and I stick the voltmeter to the outputs of the amp.. it tells me 2.8 and up to 5.something at full gain.. something is wrong just not sure what. appreciate any help.

Does Audioque e-mail you or send you any tracking info when you order from them, because I bought my 2200d the same day I bought my wiring kit and the kit is sitting next to me. I have gotten nothing from Audioque at all. I'm calling them tomorrow, but before I do I just want to know what their policy is.

I have a 1997 jeep wrangler, the stock alt makes about 90amps and idles at 14v without amps connected. If I put a h/o alt 200amp, at idle what would my voltage be without amps connected? I'm assuming its going to vary from one vehicle to another, but stock alt 90amps = 14v idle, so 200amps = 14.5v? 15v? Is there any way for me to estimate the voltage at idle?

I have two batteries a yellow top duralast under the hood and kenetik hc1800 with a us md2d on 1 15" fi bl and a pioneer gm-6400 for my highs; stock alt< no battery isolater; i"m putting out 13.2 volts i'm trying to put 14v +. How can i make the that happen? Wrong information: it"s puttin out 14.4v but when the sub comes in its drops to 13v - 12v - 11v; so what can i do to correct this?

Hey guys, I've received good information in my other topic so I thought I'd come back for some more. Got some questions to do with the setting on my sub amp and head unit Currently I'm running a infinity reference 611a amp powering 2 infinity 1050w subs but I'm looking to move up to a single 15". my head unit is a pioneer deh-p80mp and I play all my music off my multi-media player via aux input but the devices output is really quiet so with the way my setup currently is, the maximum I put my head unit to is 55 out of 60. I thought that head units have a point at which they clip but I can't hear any distortion. So I don't know if this is a problem or not. The way the sub a…

I've searched here and there, been to the12volt, etc etc etc. I'm still a little bit confused on how exactly to wire three amps with one remote wire. I've photochopped something from the12volt to illustrate my issue. Not much of a photoshop, but you get the idea. The question is this: Do I splice each remote wire from the three amps into the same single wire coming from the relay? Thanks for any advice.

im looking to get a AudioPipe 3000.1 D, but unfortunately, and for the weirdest reasons, i cant seem to find quality pictures of one. Could someone post a link? or a picture set? i would be extremely greatful!!!!!

Since the recent install of my 18" BTL. When I have the windows more than half way up my deck skips real bad.. its a nice pioneer premier. Ill burn a new cd, go spin around for a few hours and my cd has scratch rings under it from the vibration lol.. anyone ever have this problem? what was your solution? Deck is a Pioneer Premier DEH-P780MP

Ok so I was on my way home from work and my sub stopped hitting so I pulled over immediately got out and looked to see what was wrong. My amp was in protection so I made sure my headunit was completely off and turn my car off and back on again. I went back and checked and the amp wasnt it protection but there was no power light either. I popped the hood and looked at the fuse for my power wire and it was blown. So I changed out that one with a spare one i had. As soon as I turned the car again the inline fuse blew again. Can someone help me? What is making it do this? My gain was set with DMM and I have been driving it for two weeks with no issues. Any help would be aweso…

Im looking for a component set. with the addition of this 18" BTL its damn near impossible to hear high end over the bass this thing outputs.. I went to some stereo shops to see some products up close.. saw a set of the Fosgate power 6.5's.. has the driver, tweeter and crossover network.. price in store is crazy, but found the same set on the internet alot cheaper. Im concerned how they hook up as ive never had a pair of components before. Do you just use 1 channel of your amp per door.. Let me explain what i mean more.. go here My link see how the crossover box has 2 inputs and 2 outputs.. i just got done running all new wire to each door to a 4 ch amp.. will i have to c…

im a little confused.... everyone tells me the AP 3000.1 is stable @ 2 ohms, but the AP catalog says one... gimme some real feedback

I am planning on buying some XS Power batteries to replace my Deka Intimidators. I have a g34 as a starting battery and 2 g31s in the back as of now, so I guess the first question would be if I need to upgrade them at all. I will be running 2 crescendo 3kwds at .5 ohms each, a MB Quart DSC4125 bridged at 4 ohms, and a MB Quart DSC480 bridged at 8 ohms. I am rebuilding an alternator to give me more idling current, so I think it will end up being around 275 or 260 max. I am going to run an extra run of 2/0 gauge through the truck and my big three is done in 0 gauge. If I were need to upgrade and change my batteries what would be a safe amount to maintain my voltage? I…

i am going to be ordering another 18" BTL D2 for a total of 2 BTLS my question is what other electrical upgrades will i need for my next setup i currently have, a stock alternator. that i will be changing to a H/O 300 amp, shuriken BT120 and big 3 done. i am stable at about 14volts to 13.8 at full tilt with my saz-2000D i am planing on selling the Saz-2000D and getting a Stetsom 4K2D amp (open to suggestions on amps also) i am open to any suggestion, i need all the help i can get cuz i dont want anything to go wrong Thanks an advance fellaz

i need a 2 OHM amplifier, obviously kicker makes the best of the bunch. but i need a good lead to a cheaper 2 ohm amplifer, company, or just model

I have a 1992 buick century custom with a 3.3l v6 and it has a delco stock alternator, and it already has the Big 3 installed and my lights dim really badly now that I hooked up the xcon today, my last sub was 1000rms now im doing 1600rms on the amp, and my cars electrical hates it. I can here the bass distort whenever the voltage needle dips. So I was looking for a cheap upgrade since this is only gonna be my car for less than a year. I found a rebuild kit to upgrade a delco cs130 alternator to 180 amps, which the cs130 is what replaces this alternator if i go to autozone, but i'm not sure if thats whats in it now. I know its a delco but I don't know where to look for a …

i need an amp to push my 15" btl fully loaded dual 2ohm. i cant post in the fs/wtb section so i figured i would try to see what my options are this way. i am looking for something that is 2000w+ @1 ohm stable and not too power hungry. i have two yellow tops, 220 amp alt and all 0g wire (including "the big 3") i sit at about 14.4 volts with the truck at an idle and 3 viar compressors runnin. im lookin to spend about 350 shipped. if you think of any that might wok for me please post them up. not sure if i can buy one from anyone on here cause of my lack of post but if i can just send me a pm. thnx.

Just bought a Optima red top for a starter battery and a Shuriken BT100 for the trunk. Never upgraded my electrical before, in fact I will doing big 3 for the first time as well. Which brings me to my confusion. With all the 0 gauge wiring why do all the terminals I see for sale have only one 0 gauge input and then a 2/4 and 8's? I see kukonceptz has a triple 0 gauge terminal that is compatible up to 4 gauge but Im not sure if I will need anything higher for my positive terminal on the hood battery. Also, will I need terminals for the rear battery? Trying to get what I need and get it cheap without being crappy Pretty much what anyone wants to do. Would really appreciate…