Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have an upgraded alt. to 180A (i know not much, but all I could get with my car) BIG 3 are done... 2 extra batts. in the trunk.... I wake up yesterday, and for the first time ever my battery light AND brake light are on, so I'm like wtf.... to coincidental, must be something stupid that needs to be re-set... I just went out there and tested my battery.. With car ON, it reads 12.35, car OFF 12.45....... I reved the engine with the car on and it went up like .2-.3 ANybody know what this indicates...whether it means bad battery, or bad Alt.....???? Battery is only 2 months old PLEASE HELP! Just spent like 600 on electrical upgrades not to long ago

Ok I am trying to set my car up as SQ so I am lookin into another Nine.1 and another 2 ch so I can go 3-way active....only one lil problem my car has 100% stock Electrical. I found a few places to get an alt for about $350 for a 200 amp unit, here is the kicker tho.... I was looking at the do it yourself manuals at autozone (Haynes I think) and its telling me I have to pull both axles and pull the K member, then drop the motor 6 inches or so to get it out!!! F*$& that I am a welder and I have access to a water jet. So will adding another alt not of the same make or model cause me any problems. I was just going to get a one wire unit and a longer belt, make some mounti…

Well I decided to pull all my "big boys" outta the closet... time for some pics and testing... I'm really doing this to find out which amp will be the most efficient for my next install. The competitors Sundown SAZ3000D, Massive Audio P3000D, Swiss Audio SDX2000A, Clif Designs CD4800LX(amp is sold,pics only) , Visonik 4000

Looking for a cheap amp for a friends car, he'll be buying my SA12s. Needs 1200 at two ohms. Are the Hifonics BRZ amps good? I found one for 200$ new.

i'm looking for the best quality. sound and build.

I put my mechman 240a alt on and have a group 65 diehard platinum under hood and small stinger in back. when playing full tilt on heavy bass im seeing low 12s. If i add another big plat in the back will this keep my voltage in the 13s or will it still drop to 12s as that's what the batteries rest at? this may be stupid question but none the less i am curious.

I current have a 250a DB Electrical alt installed with a Deka 9a78DT as my front battery running 1500 watts. At idle I drop to around 13.9 and when cruising I stay right at 14.5 volts. Now I want to run 4300 in the near future and need to know how many batteries and what batteries would be best. I'm kinda thinking three Deka 9a31's but am open to other things and am willing to buy used. I want to try and stay around 600 for all of them so gimme an idea for how many and what I should get.

Hey fellas I've been researching this and would love some input. It's a 2002 Mercedes C230K 2.3L with one stock H-8 type batt under the hood and soon to be an XS Power XP3000 in the back. Wasn't able to find anything XS made for under the hood but if I could find one or another of similar quality, I'd go for it. Otherwise it's a stock batt but it is brand new. I'd like to use the Synergy Audio 35.1D as well as 1-2 more amps for the front stage. Call it 4k watts total guesstimate. Now looking at conversion tables, 4k watts is a 278 amp draw in a 14.4 voltage system. No, I don't believe I would be pulling that much power continually but more of a ceiling. I'm no…

I have two batteries a yellow top duralast under the hood and kenetik hc1800 with a us md2d on 1 15" fi bl and a pioneer gm-6400 for my highs; stock alt< no battery isolater; i"m putting out 13.2 volts i'm trying to put 14v +. How can i make the that happen? Wrong information: it"s puttin out 14.4v but when the sub comes in its drops to 13v - 12v - 11v; so what can i do to correct this?

Hi someone locally is selling a 300amp alternator for my car, which is a 2003 4.0L Explorer. I know the guy and he said he never used it because he just sold his explorer but he bought it from a place in cali. What should I be looking for to see if the alternator is legit? what tests can I do? Or should I just get a 240amp iraggi alternator? Any input would be greatly appreciated Thanks!!

Couple weekends ago I was at a car show and a hertz sales rep was talking massive trash about sundown amps (and other non-mainstream companies). He stated that it is impossible for sundown amps and other amps of similar build to do rated power on strictly pcb board. he said hertz amps had a solid copper plate underneath the circuitry to deal with producing high current (1000watts+ or whatever). So my question is, do sundown amps (and others) have any plating underneath the boards? If not, then how do they handle all the current without frying? I'm not in any way, shape or form questioning sundown quality (as I have a saz-1500d myself , but just interested in how all this …

if im wrong feel free to help in anyway. i assume i would need to upgrade my alternator, just a givin. then add about 3-4 batteries that output that voltage while using a device that seperates the batteries in the back from the one under the hood, but also charges the batteries in the rear. of course whole car can not be ran anything more than 14 volts on a 12 volt system(14.4 was the most i seen but i could be wrong) so the battery under the hood would be different than the one's in the rear. and could anyone fill me in about the missing link module, i know its not good to charge the batteries on 15.4 volts but i think it has a button to switch between from 15.4 to 14.4,…

I looked in the fourms on how to do it but couldent find exactly what is needed. I have 2 xsd3400 batts. One underhood and other in the trunk. What would be my best option in charging them?

Hey guys could someone help me as to how to go about setting the bass boost on my amplifer? Is it bad to use it? SAZ-3000D

welp finally got my hands on a second aq2200 now the only thing is i hyave no idea how to strap them together!!! lol iv never done any kind of strapping what so ever so help is appreciated! subs are d2's by the way. i have 2 sets of power and grounds in back as well. sexynesssssssss

ok noob here and i was thinking i should get a yellow top under the hood, do the big 3, and get a kinetic hc2000. now my question is do i neeed the second batt? i heard that a second batt isnt neccesary if you wont play music with your car off. the yellow top under the hood and big 3 are going to be done for sure though. oh and one more question how many ft of 1/0 wire would i need to do the big 3. i have a 00' honda accord coupe. alternator will be done soon need help on that too but dont want to spend more than 400 on one?

Do I fit the power and negative cables in and take my voltage meter to the speaker out lets? I cant remember I want to test it with the stock alt wire and ground and see if I can get more power from doing the Big 3. Im sure you will suggest to use it but I want to know how much a difference it made on my truck and post up the results. Mine is a 2500hd duramax so I know I have a higher amp Alt. Plus 2 batteries already

never dealt with EQ's and stuff before.... i originally planned to run an EQ and an external active xover, but lo and behold, the amp i am planning to run, the Usamps AX5600 has a built in 3-way xover. SOOO instead of spending another 50 dollars or so, and adding more stuff to wire, i can just run everything from the amp and the EQ. i purchased a PG TiEQ15 a few weeks ago and it only has one set of RCA inputs, and 1 set of outputs while the amp has 3 sets of inputs. i know i have to run another set of speaker wire/side as well as a set of RCA's from my HU but how do i handle the EQ? just run the eq off of the front RCA's? or am i out of luck and get a new eq with 3 …

I just bought the hifonics brz1700.1d and the Shuriken SK-BT60, do I conected like this and ground the second battery to the chassis. I have a 95 honda accord

I see people saying their rms "clamped" all the time, I'm curious to know what my Memphis is actually putting out. I have an amp probe and a dmm. How would I go about clamping my amp to see the power it is putting out?

Just as the topic states. For example, what would be the 4 ohm rating for a AB 1100.1 be? I know on their Website it says or shows what it does at 1 Ohm, but what would it do at 4 Ohms? Is there a Formula to this Madness or do you simply divide the RMS of the Amp by 4 to get the 4 Ohm Rating? I know I am going to get some Stupid answers, BUT I would really like to hear Educated and Smart Answers. Thank you in Advance my Fellow Bass Heads. Also if you know the 4 Ohm Ratings for your Amps for you Sub Stage, would you kindly list your info in this Format. Make: Model: 1 Ohm or whatever Ohm Load your Amp's RMS is rated at: The Amp's 4 Ohm RMS Rating: Again Thank you in Advanc…

could i possibly get a description and maybe a diagram of how to run the big three ? thank you !!!!!

I've been searching and not finding exactly what I wanted.... Im trying to figure out how to find a good ground in my car for my rear batts and I know people use DMM's to test spots but I wasn't sure how? like which setting on the dmm and what do you touch the probes to?.. I dont understand rofl. I tried a bunch of different things but wasn't really sure what I was doing.

I have a friend (yeah, that's how it always starts) that says when he tunes his EQ on his head unit, he just leaves it flat across the spectrum. The only thing he ever adjusts is the crossovers on the amp(s). This is the first time I've heard of this. He says the head unit's crossover points are usually set in the wrong place so it won't get the most out of it something like that. I have a DEH-P600UB with the 7-band EQ, should I follow his advice or just tune it to what I think sounds good (no distortion, etc.)