Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
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5,712 topics in this forum
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never dealt with EQ's and stuff before.... i originally planned to run an EQ and an external active xover, but lo and behold, the amp i am planning to run, the Usamps AX5600 has a built in 3-way xover. SOOO instead of spending another 50 dollars or so, and adding more stuff to wire, i can just run everything from the amp and the EQ. i purchased a PG TiEQ15 a few weeks ago and it only has one set of RCA inputs, and 1 set of outputs while the amp has 3 sets of inputs. i know i have to run another set of speaker wire/side as well as a set of RCA's from my HU but how do i handle the EQ? just run the eq off of the front RCA's? or am i out of luck and get a new eq with 3 …
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Ok. So now im looking for a new battery. My current battery ratings are CA: 650 Amps CCA: 525 Amps. The battery (EverStart) is bad tho. I dont know If I want a battery that replaces the existing one, or if I shold just get one and put it in my trunk. The battery I have now still starts my car, but in the cold its very close to not starting it. I want a battery that will start my car fine in the cold, and that will eliminate my voltage drops (Down to 13v from 14.5v voltage drops now when I bump my system) to go with my HO alt (160 Amp). After thinking about it after writing the majority of this thread, I should get an additional battery, and keep the stock right where i…
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I want a cheap but decent head unit with an aux jack in the front... I went to several shops; they kept showing me Sony's. They were Xplodes; one had a USB jack in the front. For a second, I wanted one; I started to freak out. I don't like Sony; please help me.
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i think my alternator is dyin cause the voltage drops when im stopped...i need help on choosing a H/O alternator....how many amps also??
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Well, im looking into this amp casue its pretty cheap where i found it. I heard good and bad about it. I hear it will do 1/2ohm daily and over 3000watts? Are their amps any good? The model im looking at is the Concept CC-D2400, its an older model I think. Thaks for the help...
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Greetings Folks, I was in to mobile audio around year 2000. Back then the Big Box Brands like you found at Best Buy were OK but the high end companies had a significant boost in performance. Lower noise floors, met rated power output, better thermal management, and cleaner sound. Today I see that the mainstream companies products pricing has DROPPED dramatically. I wonder if quality has suffered as well. Let me give an example... Sounstream 15 years ago was a high end company that made top shelf products. Today they are owned my the corporate overlords and have mainstream products. This amp caught my attention for price, performance, and looks. …
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ok so i was bumpin' and after a while(10-15min), my fuse popped so i park/turn off the car, go to the back and change my 50amp fuse(got a couple for backup in the car) so then i turn on the car, i start turning up the volume VERY slowly... then I hear and see a BIG spark as if a thunder was in my trunk(the amp is naked)... and electrical smell and smoke went off, but not alot..., so i turn off the car straight up and go take off my rear battery's negative connections... so now idk what to do? what did cause this? and why my fuse popped in the first place(does that sometimes, not the first time)... is it safe to plug things bak? the reason i dindt is because I dont want …
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Has anyone here had any experience with them. I was able to purchase one for $200 planning running a 10 z v.4 at .5ohm with it.
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Heres the scoop: I went to put my sub and amp in my car, and was having a hard time getting the box to fit, so I thought I better check everything out to make sure it worked, and the amp keeps going into a protection mode or something. Its a Memphis PR1000.1 I tried to contact the seller because he guaranteed not to be DOA but won't get a return. I guess thats what I get for buying off of ebay But anyways, I was wondering if people could give me some input on which would be a better amp for my Fi Q in a LSQ installation. Kicker ZX1000.1 Sundown SAE-1000D I can get them for about the same price. Any help? Thanks.
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ok, the problem is there is a noticable humming noise comming from my t1500-1bd, and its from the amp, not speakers nor subs it is a high pitch noise, and the worst is that when i turn the bass knob, the bass is louders, but then suddenly you start hearing the pitch noice more, and distorts, thats when i need to lower the bass knobs any suggestions thanks
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he sent it cause he knows I am a old RF amp nut, but here is the .pdf link >> http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/press/asset...25punchamps.pdf
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Okay, my buddy just received his fi bl 18's. he has 2 of them running off an audiopipe 3000. They are both D1 ohm. Would i wire them in a series for them to be running @ 1 ohm from the amp or would i wire them parallel. AND after i figure that out how would i wire them in series and how would i wire them in parallel.
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Chassis reminds me a little of the old ones.
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Hello all, well as I stated in my opening post I competed years ago in SPL and as I am building a new setup running four identical amps for my subs, I was curious what else there is to link them for good synchronization? Please do not debate with me or anyone about syncing either my post is only for the purposes of finding out what people are running to link there amps whether it be custom or store bought, I have used both. I have seen people using the maxx link from hifonics but I can't seem to find them as they must be discontinued??? Thanks for all your answers and if you would like to debate this please start another post
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So in my next build I'm going to be running around 3500 watts probably a bc3500. For my current electrical setup i have a dc 270xp alt the big 3 and a d5100r in the front. Voltage @ idle is 15.2v. If i run 2 runs of ofc 0ga to a deka 9a31 in the back then one 2ft run of 0ga from the batt to amp is it going to be enough to to keep me above 13v for the most part or will i need a second 9a31 in the back. I plan on getting a second one later on anyway but would it be necessary? Thanks.
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SImple question. I need a suggestion for an amp to power 2 fi q 10's. Car: 2006 Pontiac G6 Budget: $500-$600 thanks in advance ~MadroX
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So i bought a 1male to 2 female rca adapter from monster because this hu only has one output for subs...but for some reason i cant access the subwoofer controls or the dolby 4.1 settings on this thing...it appears only in ghost writting not in white...whats is wrong?
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Has anyone tried there high output alternators or have opinions about them?
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Hey guys. I have 4 D1 coil subs and I want to wire to a final load of 2 ohm. Here is that: What a mess!!! My question is can I wire 2 pair like so at 4 ohm and run each to the amps bringing the final load to 2 ohm final? This option would allow me to run heaver ga wire and make wiring much easier. My amps manual says to run master positive to sub positive and slave positive to sub negative with a jumper wire running from master negative to slave negative. My 2 D1 subs are currently wired like so using all 4 speaker inputs on the amp to bring the load to 1 ohm. Let me know if I am not being clear about something and Thanks in advance for any help!
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Hey everyone, I was at the USACI/Second Skin show this last weekend, and I won a couple SSA subs, the 12'' DCONs. Anywho, I wanted some input from you guys as to what I should use to power it. A guy I know that works for Diamond Audio suggested this: Diamond Audio D3 600.1 Someone else said that amp isn't going to push enough power. So, what do you guys think. Any suggestions?
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Alright guys, I'm looking for a good In-Dash 7" TFT-LCD Touchscreen, Single Din. I'm looking for something that has a responsive touch screen, looks good, has Iphone 3gs support, Aux inputs are always nice, Navigation is not needed as for Multimedia options i would like the ability to play DivX files, DVD's, and DVD Music C.D.s . I would like the ability to run 2 way active, then in the future to run 3 way active, So it must have Subwoofer + Rear+ Front outputs. My budget is around 400 probably no more than 425, I'm open to all brands, so Pioneer, Alpine, Clairion, etc would be all acceptiable.
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So in my electrical class my group and I are doing a project on MOSFET's and I will be bringing in some MOSFETS (blown and new) for some show and tell, then I wanted to bring in my amp (saz2000) and show that off but then I looked at the board and I was like umm maybe I should learn all the parts and how the amp works! so here is my amp's guts (i got the pic from another forum the saz2000 pre-sale one!) so here is what I understand (i hope i am not 100% wrong) on the far left and right sides those are the MOSFETS, the power supply are the 4 red coils, the caps are on the bottom center and top, the teal things I don't know (top center) the pre-amp is all that stuff at …
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Ok so I have an Adassa Audio The Warlord amp and I was setting the gains with a 50hz test tone and a dmm and right when I got it at 70 volts it started to fluctuate. It went down to 66v then 60v then 50 and so on. It got to the point where I turned up the gain 100% and it was only giving out 51v!! I shut everything down and waited a while because the amp was hot and when I tried to set the gains again it worked for a while (stayed at 70v) but then dropped back to 60v. I now think something is wrong with the amp. Has anyone heard of this problem? I am thinking about sending it to Chris at db-r.... opinions? Thanks!
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