Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i am looking at getting a jbl 1200 watt amp, i found 1 on sounddomain, but have not found much else. The one i found on SD was the powervalve BP, i found one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5700553298&rd=1 which would be better suited for 2 adire shiva 12's in a ported box

I've heard a lot of people complain about the same problem, but what do I do to solve it? If, I need to reground something, which wire/s go where? I'm not too knowledgeable about this nor did I install this on my own. My truck is an 06 Silverado

So I dont know if I will need an alternator, at least I hope not. However, if I did I dont think it is possible to find an aftermarket one for the 4.2L as it is not a very common engine in the f150...anyone have any ideas (I would not be able to afford an alternator for a long time anyways, might have a new truck by then anyways...)

Current set up: PSI P2 15" Hifonics Zeus 3200.1d Wired:2 Ohm While listening to the music yesterday the bass suddenly cut off. Check the wires for amp everything looks secure. Check the subwoofer everything looks good. Amp turns on but sends no music. Is the amp blown?

i was hoping M5 (or someone else) might know of a place locally that does a mix of electrical work. i had a customer drop off a large LED sign board that runs off 220V mains with seriesed 110V inverters into about 88 separate micro controller boards that run off 24/12/5.6V and control small segments of RGB led's. the panel blows breakers upon power up. its beyond the scope of work that we do at my shop and wanted to give the customer and idea of maybe where to go.

H.U. >>>>>>>>>>>>Eclipse AV8533, installed ~ 2 months ago, new in box before that. I'm the original owner. Mid bass speakers>>>>Peerless sls (830946) 4 of them. Mid bass amp>>>>>> Sundown sax 125.2, installed ~ 2 months ago, I'm the original owner. A couple of days ago I thought I heard my midbass speakers fade out, then come back on in a second or two. I wasn't sure if I heard it or not, so I dismissed it. Today I got in my truck and got on the E-way (I'm 2 min. from the E-way) and my midbass speakers faded out again. I don't think this is a wiring issue, it happens like clockwork, they play for ~6 second…

So i recently bought a pioneer avic n4 and i hooked it all up and all the unit does is open up with a black screen and when car is the screen will go down...there is no illumination or nothing...although i do here the headunit making some noises....so i know its working...and i have tried a new 30 pin plug and that didnt help.

Hi, I want to know how exactly can I measure the exact amount of RMS wattage output my amplifier is delivering to the subwoofer, reason asking is because my amplifier is too powerful for my current subwoofer and I will limit my amplifier to the maximum Rms power handling of my subwoofer, Thank you.

specificly the a3000db, here, and the a520-2hp, here...... what can anyone tell me about them? how are their amps in general? the reason i am asking is becuz a install i am about to start might include these two amps, if they are atleast capable of their rated power and good performers... also, if u can list amps in the same power range, the mono amp needs to be either 1/2 ohm or 2 ohm stable(the subs are dvc 2ohm) for around the same price...plz list....i need them to be a "matching" pair thanks all wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

I've always been against it, because it seems like it would vibrate the living fuck out of the guts and possibly make parts become loose and resulting in the amp being faulty. BUT! I am tight on space, and might have to do so. So i was wondering if everyone who has done this before can tell me if their amp(s) had a problem, if so what problem and/or if the amp was fine. Please include name(s) of equipment! Thank you!

Hey guys. So I am going to be running 2 Crunch GP3000D's here in the near future and I am wondering what the benefit of strapping the amps vs. running one amp to a pair of subs? My subs are/will be dual 1 ohm coils so I can wire each sub to 2ohm and let the amp take it to a 1 ohm final load or I can strap the amps and wire all the subs to 2ohm final load. IMO, It would be easier to wire the subs to 2ohm and then run wire from 2 subs in to one amp and repeat for the other subs and amp. Since I have never strapped amps, I am curious what the benefit would be and would it be worth the extra work to try and multiple wires to the sub terminals.

Ok, yesterday, I rearranged some things behind my head unit, which was working fine. I put everything back and the HU was working fine. After putting my dash back together I was planning on going to my friends apartment, but when I go to turn on the headlights a fuse blows and my dash lights cut out. I try replacing the fuse and when it blows again I check a few things and say screw it and go inside. CD player still works fine. Today I test things out better. I figured out that when the HU was not wired up the problem does not exist. When I plug the HU back in the fuse blows and such. As a matther of fact the voltage at the battery (all wires still connected) I get 56volt…

I recently got a redtop from a friend. It had been sitting up for a good while and was reading 7 volts. So I put my charger on it @ 2amps for 3 days. Now the battery reads 14 volts when I take the charger off. All good right? But when I go to try it out and put it in my car, it wont crank it. So I let it charge some more, and same thing. Battery is fine until you put a load on it. Im assuming its bad, but I wanna make sure, so here this thread is. Hate to waste a battery like that.

Its a 2000 watt volfenhag amp. not sure of the exact model. i had it wired at 1 ohm, and from what i have read online the lowest it should be wired is 2 ohm. It started cutting off after 10 mins, then 5, then 2, then it stopped working. I took the cover off, to look for burnt pieces, but i found nothing. it all looked fine. now, what could cause this? can it be fixed cheaply? if not, could i repair a memphis pr 600 using this amps parts? im uploading pics now and yes, i know this is a POS amp, but currently im saving up to buy a fi btl then a sundown amp. ok, photobucket is being gay so ill get pics tomorrow.

I read around a bit and read a whole thread in here and went out and bought 35 feet of 3/0 for my car. This stuffs freakin huge. It looks like a black garden hose and makes my stinger expert look like a spaghetti noodle :-(

I just bought the hifonics brz1700.1d and the Shuriken SK-BT60, do I conected like this and ground the second battery to the chassis. I have a 95 honda accord

I saw a link that Ryan posted in the ihop for a Directed 1100d5 that does 75x4 at 4 ohms and 600x1 at 1 ohm on the sub channel. It doesn't say anything about bridging the amp, but I was wondering if the amp would work if I wired it to where the left side was on 2 channels of the amp and the right channel was on 2 channels of the amp. This would be kind of like bridging it, but running a wire in all 4 pieces. I think if I bridge it, it would put out too much power. Has anyone ever done this? It is sounding like it won't work or will be bad for the amp, but I am not sure.

it got very cold around here and like many others i just bought two new batteries for my truck, these are just factory but AGM upgraded. now in an audio system lets assume i have enough wiring to transmit power with negligible losses from under hood to back seat. if i have two batteries at 1150CCA up front and put an older battery in back on the amp rack (say a 900CCA agm) will i run into issues with having a less than new battery back there? lets say the battery tests out at 80% of its rated cca (so still a decently good battery i think), when the amps pull power will it have a similar effect as a cap can have in that the alternator is now trying to charge the batter…

Alright guys, I'm looking for a good In-Dash 7" TFT-LCD Touchscreen, Single Din. I'm looking for something that has a responsive touch screen, looks good, has Iphone 3gs support, Aux inputs are always nice, Navigation is not needed as for Multimedia options i would like the ability to play DivX files, DVD's, and DVD Music C.D.s . I would like the ability to run 2 way active, then in the future to run 3 way active, So it must have Subwoofer + Rear+ Front outputs. My budget is around 400 probably no more than 425, I'm open to all brands, so Pioneer, Alpine, Clairion, etc would be all acceptiable.

Doesn anyone have any expeience with these amps? I am currently shopping around for new amps for the possibly near future and was reading a little bit about treo. I know their subs are of good quality but what about their amps?

im thinking about getting 2 zcon 18's next week, but for now i was going to go with Hifonics amps until i can afford a better amp. Was gonna run each Zcon on a Brutus 2400.1...They are supposedly CEA certified. Is anyone running Hifonics amps?? Are they worth a crap?

Hey all.The UPS guy just dropped of my new aq2200 amp.Can't wait to get it hooked up!!!

My neighbor happened upon a xtant 3300 its a big ass chrome amp unlike anything ive seen before. I went over there and hooked up on the mono sub channel to a couple Memphis 15's and it sounded good but what im wondering is what else can it be used for I googled it and found its a 3 channel with 5 channel capabilities more SQ oriented but what is this thing worth? Also ive never seen an amp like this without knobs and little plugs instead. I would have taken a pic but it was night and my cell wasn't capturing it well. Anyone have any knowlegde on it? I can probably get it for pretty damn cheap or trade my RF 450.2 for it.

So when I originally purchased my amp (1k5h 1ohm) it was the combo deal with my xcon d2 but I now will be running both xcons on it until I upgrade electrical and go bigger also got to save up the money My question is should I just wire it to 2 ohm load and have less watts per sub or wire it to .5 ohm and just keep an eye on it to make sure it don't over heat Don't want to ruin this amp it's been great and I would like to sell it in the future when I upgrade Thanks Logan

i was reading the .5 wiring thread a while ago and somethin hit me that i'm curious about. The opti2000d by lanzar is the only amp they have that is 0.5ohm stable The Saz-1500d\3000d "used to" have 0.5 ohm warranty coverage until... well anyways. The opti2000d is 0.5 stable all day every day. Is this the case with SAZ amps as well or are they just lenient on below 1 ohm stability? The opti is the only class d amp i know of that is guaranteed to be stable at 0.5 ohms, so curious about this.