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I set the Hz to roughly 80, but what about this sub sonic eq and the bass eq that goes from 0 - 18db should I mess with these settings at all? Its 2 12s down fire sealed box incase that matters
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http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=105561
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Ok i have decided to say screw it and just buy something big, and worry abou tmoney later ...only because i realize i am going to piss the money away on little stuff anyway so i might as well buy something big now.. Ok so the viper was 332 on ebay, but ikesound is not relisting it, so it is 377 from their main site...Big diffrence huh ... But i dediced to buy it anyway, but b4 i do i need to know is thier a better amp for around the same price. I'm hoping this is my last amp. Unless i get a jbl/crown ...But this needs to last. So if you find something better let me know.. 2500watts underated for 377$
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Ok, I'm looking to put a new H/U in. Here are my parameters: -nav built in bluetooth built in -ipod control -dvd -double din -5.8" or bigger screen -sub pre outs Right now, I'm leaning towards the Pioneer Premier f90bt. A friend of mine has one and I'm really impressed with it. I can find it for about $650 new and $475 refurb on Ebay(would you guys trust a refurb???) The only thing I don't like about the unit is the cd slot. Its petty, but I'm used to flipdowns where the slot is behind the face. I think it looks a little sleeker, plus you get an extra inch or so of screen. Opinions on this unit? Anybody have any suggestions for similar units, preferably around the same pr…
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http://www.keyrazyleds.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=62&category_id=7&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=30 it just a 12volt remote box with a wireless remote, i would like to know if i can use this on my amps? because it is original use for led light, but it just looks like its only input and out system so input do i put + and - of my back batteries? and ouput i put my + and - from my amp terminals? also do you think it will be fine if i add a stinger volt meter and another amp to the same box? (2saz3500's strapped voltmeter and maybe a 100.4)
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ive been intrested in a in dash multimeadia player and i came across these, i dont feel like spending 800+ on an alpine or pioneer, so i thought these should be just fine..right? anyway, i narrowed it down to these 2 and it got average reviews from circuitcity and crutchfeild, but i cant really tell what the difference between the 2 besides the fact the vm9512 has 5 more watts rms....any help?? thanks ~ROB~ http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Ite...M9412&tp=75 http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Ite...M9512&tp=75
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This was all caused by a loose connection. I had a shunt in between the battery and the amp so I could watch the current draw at all times. The connection on the amp side of the shunt got a little loose, and well it pretty much melted the wire into one big strand. I didn't shoot a picture of the connection, but you could tell it got hot. I know that the piece looks like Solder, but I assure you 110% it was CCA KNU wire. This time I'll tighten it up a little more And I cut another 3/4 inch further, I don't know what temperature it got to, but it made it to whatever temperature turns a copper ring terminal black with green and white corrosion.
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For over a year now I thought my amps were fully shutting down when the dome lights did. They have not been, but I didn't start suffering low volatge the next morning until recently.... which means that my batteries must have been stronger before but doing this over a year has damaged them marginaly. Today I was waiting for my GF with the ACC in the off. After 15 minutes the toggle switchs shut off and the deck shut off...as they should. I looked in back, sure enough the amps were off... wait... the red lights on the 3 KX amps were off and the blue display was off on the SX...but I saw a faint green glow. I stuck my head through the port and looked at the bottoms of the a…
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ok so my stock harness is fudgeed....how do i know? i hooked up the stock deck.. and i attached a HONDA wiring harness to it and wired up my Eclipse, still no good.. so i decided to wire up the HU directly.. only problem now is i need a direct illumination wire, help plz?
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how would an audiopipe ap1500.1d preform at .5 ohm. with 14.2 v roughly.
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Hello forum folks. I have a 2004 Buick park avenue that I am wanting to install a system into. I have run into one problem...I was about to buy a standard wiring harness when I was told that I would need a "data harness" due to my car having onStar even though I dont use it. If anybody has had any experience in installing a head unit into 2000 and up GM with onstar your assistance would be greatly appreciated. If anybody could link me to the proper harness it would be appreciated as well...as I am trying to avoid paying a shop $700 to install my system. Thanks
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im thinking about getting 2 zcon 18's next week, but for now i was going to go with Hifonics amps until i can afford a better amp. Was gonna run each Zcon on a Brutus 2400.1...They are supposedly CEA certified. Is anyone running Hifonics amps?? Are they worth a crap?
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I'm having a small problem with my system. I can really use some feedback from you guys. I have 2 soundstream eg-15's(400 rms ea.) hooked up to my SS tarantula tr880/2 (880 rms). everything is great ,they hit hard, but when I turn up the gain and volume for higher spl the amp will shut off. but only on certain hard hitting songs. I'm pretty sure the amp can handle these volumes, being an old school tarantula. I'm thinking it may be the voltage drop it causes at these volumes. But the voltage drop doesn't seem to bad going by the headlights. I do only have a stock alt., and I haven't done the big 3. I'm wondering if voltage drop would cause the amp protection to turn off.…
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will the ppi black ice 800.4 be enough to run a set of alpine type r components up front and a ssa dcon off the rear 2 channels bridged? or should I plan to invest in a second amp also are there any electrical changes that have to be made for that amp I would assume not but due to all the computers in my jeep I want to make sure the voltage would be safe
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Basically I'm planning on starting a build pretty soon and right now I'm doing my homework on headunits. I've pretty much narrowed it down to these two. They are practically the same price(JVC is $10 more) and the JVC has a few more features like HD radio, 5V pre-outs, etc. But Pioneer seems to have a better reputation, so I'm not really sure. These seem to be the best two that fit my requirements as I need one that is around $150, has at least 4V outputs, and sub pre amp outputs. So which one do you guys think would be the better buy?
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What are the advantages or disadvantages of swapping air conditioiner for second alt ?
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So i got a double din installed on my car and after about a month my system would just randomly turn off(headunit would power off and same with subs and amp) it did it once then would reboot. I took it in they changed the wire harness and the ground. It fixed it for about 2 days i then decided to change my negative battery cable and that fixed it for a few months and then it came back and i noticed that with the head unit turned off that there was a bass note from the subs playing real faint until i turn the bass knob it gets louder. What could be the issue on why my head unit turns off by its self faulty head unit, bad amp need help asap.
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i want blue tooth/ipod/changeable backround pic, the ipod is most important and SQ. what i have is in sig. i have good stuff and want the best deck for SQ. they both have the options i want. i think the p980 has a better screen and i think the ipod on the x991 is better. no one around me has this on display so I'm buying blind. please help me
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Is the Powerbass ABA-1 Bass Accelerator good, they are selling me one at a very good price, but want to know if its something useful
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will a 130amp alternator suffice for a SSA ZCON 15 D1 either at .5 or 1ohm on a Crescendo bc200D and some other goodies down the road or would a 200amp alt be better
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hi guys, i know alot has been ask about this 2 HU's, more often discussed on, "it looks fugly", "it has better tuning capabilities", "it has this pico fuse prob" and many more... frankly now i know i cant get the best HU i want due to cost so i have to get the best i can do with my current budget... Pioneer P800PRS or Eclipse CD7200mkII... im already aware of most specs... right now i would just like to ask from people who have used the 2 or have some experience on it.... tuning wise, i know it would be a debate as to parametric is better that graphic or vice versa... and to some, they even say the 7band parametric can be as powerful as the 16band graphic... so my only q…
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Ive got a 15" SSD with the flatwind coil option. Just wanting to know what amp would be better, and if the audio que puts out more than 870 @ 2ohm
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I want to buy and install an amplifier for a new sound system for a car. I'd like the amplifier to not clip, and I'm willing to sacrifice a little bit of dynamics for extra loudness when I want it. In the world of music production we regularly obtain these goals with an effect called a brickwall limiter. It's basically a special type of compressor that guarantees that the sound never passes a certain threshold. Do they make car audio amplifiers with brickwall limiters (or at least compressors) inside them?
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Arrived today with a big pile of bird crap on the box! Maybe that's a bad omen??
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Audioque is already aware of this so while i wait for shipping delays, i wanna know if u guys can think of how this happened before i have to wait a week before they tell me. I have 2 AQ2200ds strapped together. The power light was always on on both amps so no reverse wiring there. They never went into protect. Voltage sitting at 13.5v Gain half way, subsonic all the way down, lpf at 110hz. Preout voltage 4v, preout maxed out on head unit, Sub output is turned on, bass is on +3 boosted at 80hz. I was on the phone with AW and everything was verified that everything was hooked up 100%. Even the resistance on the terminals read 1.4ohms so everything was perfect. Turned on th…
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