Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have a 12" kicker l7 2ohm dvc sub needs 750watts rms i would like to get the kicker 750.1 but i cant wire it to 2ohms to get 750watts so i have to go with something like this. Also are hifonics amps any good? # No. OF CHANNELS: 2 # OUTPUT (watts):RMS @ 4 Ohms 220x2 # RMS @ 2 Ohms 380x2 # RMS @ 4 Ohm Mono 760x1 # T.H.D.: 0.02% # FREQ. RESPONSE (Hz): 10 - 30k # SIGNAL TO NOISE RATIO: >97dB # DAMPING FACTOR: >200 # INPUT SENSITVITY: 0.5 - 4.0V # CROSOVER SLOPES: 12dB # CROSSOVER FREQUENCY: High-Pass(Hz) 50 - 600 # Low-Pass(Hz) 50 - 150 # SUBWOFFER EQ: 0 - 18dB 0 # SUBWOOFER EQ FREQ. (Hz) : 40 - 120 # DIMENSIONS (INCHES): 9.5x2.5x20.0 # Fully regulated MOSFET power s…

Any body ever run this head unit? Looks to be pretty nice for the price. This might be the one i use. Any opions would be greatly appreciated here's a link http://mobile.jvc.com/product.jsp?modelId=...d=54&page=3

So when I originally purchased my amp (1k5h 1ohm) it was the combo deal with my xcon d2 but I now will be running both xcons on it until I upgrade electrical and go bigger also got to save up the money My question is should I just wire it to 2 ohm load and have less watts per sub or wire it to .5 ohm and just keep an eye on it to make sure it don't over heat Don't want to ruin this amp it's been great and I would like to sell it in the future when I upgrade Thanks Logan

he sent it cause he knows I am a old RF amp nut, but here is the .pdf link >> http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/press/asset...25punchamps.pdf

So in my electrical class my group and I are doing a project on MOSFET's and I will be bringing in some MOSFETS (blown and new) for some show and tell, then I wanted to bring in my amp (saz2000) and show that off but then I looked at the board and I was like umm maybe I should learn all the parts and how the amp works! so here is my amp's guts (i got the pic from another forum the saz2000 pre-sale one!) so here is what I understand (i hope i am not 100% wrong) on the far left and right sides those are the MOSFETS, the power supply are the 4 red coils, the caps are on the bottom center and top, the teal things I don't know (top center) the pre-amp is all that stuff at …

Is it important to have a battery isolator when installing a second battery?

Ok i have decided to say screw it and just buy something big, and worry abou tmoney later ...only because i realize i am going to piss the money away on little stuff anyway so i might as well buy something big now.. Ok so the viper was 332 on ebay, but ikesound is not relisting it, so it is 377 from their main site...Big diffrence huh ... But i dediced to buy it anyway, but b4 i do i need to know is thier a better amp for around the same price. I'm hoping this is my last amp. Unless i get a jbl/crown ...But this needs to last. So if you find something better let me know.. 2500watts underated for 377$

electrical system consists of 220 amp alt., 2 hc 2400 kinetik, and the big three completed. I have a 2000 blazer, box is built to vehicles peak tuning frequency. What would be the best amp to use for competition in the street 3 class for meca. Price of amp is not to much of an issue, just looking for something to get the most from the subs. All help would be appreciative.

What is the best and easiest way to get get 16v to your amps in a daily driver? Do you need a seperate regulator for your alternator? What about the MLA Module, anyone ever used it and how well does it work?

hi guys this is my set-up, I purchased a new hifonics BXI1210D from vminovations to connect to my set of pioneer ts308D4 at 1 ohm in a dual ported box, should i be alright? any tips in makin my install better? Any good ideas on setting the gain or any other settings? current set up on my Ford 1995 Explorer 4 dr -kenwood mpc205 HU with 2volts at the sub preout -2 12" 308D4 pioneer 400rms each, final impedance is 1 ohm -Ported box at 1.65-1.70 cu per chamber (rough estimate) -4 gauge wiring from ebay -1000 cold cranking amp everstart battery from walmart -partial big 3, 4 gauge from + battery to + on alternator -80 amp fuse 12 inches from battery -level 1/2 up, LPF 1/3 u…

Alright so I had a nine.1 I bought used. Worked great for a couple months then all 4 fuses would blow on it. So I sent it to eD under warranty. Finally recieved one back after like 3 months of waiting. Installed the amp, worked for about 5-10 minutes then did the same thing. The amp was extremely hot to the touch also. eD wasn't much help so I decided to say fudge it and I purchased a used SAZ-1500D from Jacob which should be arriving Monday. I've been talking back and forth with Jacob about this problem and he said that there might be a short in my power wire. Theres only one spot where the rubber encasing is wore down a little bit but none of the wires i…

Here's what I want: single din MP3/WMA Bluetooth USB 3 sets pre outs In the past I was always partial to Nakamichi but no Nakamichi head unit has the options I'm looking for. I used to have a Pioneer 8600 and it was great so I could say I'm a Pioneer fan as well. I've been looking around, kind of leaning towards a Pioneer Premier 610BT, a Pioneer 1610BT or an Eclipse CD5030 or an Eclipse CD3200. Any personal preferences out of these or could I look at some others? I'd like to stay under $250 if possible.

Basically, I am contemplating the carputer idea heavily and will be looking for ideas as far as EQing and setting the system up. I want it headunitless, so an external unit is needed. Is there something out that has all the features of an active type of headunit? (think TA etc...) Any ideas post them up, the carputer is only in the early stages but I will be putting everything together in pieces. Help me out here

http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=105561

Lesser amps beware..........

Its a 2000 watt volfenhag amp. not sure of the exact model. i had it wired at 1 ohm, and from what i have read online the lowest it should be wired is 2 ohm. It started cutting off after 10 mins, then 5, then 2, then it stopped working. I took the cover off, to look for burnt pieces, but i found nothing. it all looked fine. now, what could cause this? can it be fixed cheaply? if not, could i repair a memphis pr 600 using this amps parts? im uploading pics now and yes, i know this is a POS amp, but currently im saving up to buy a fi btl then a sundown amp. ok, photobucket is being gay so ill get pics tomorrow.

My voltage is dropping down to 12.4 at high volume this is off an 180 amp alt with three battery in the back (kinetik 2@2400 & 1@1400). The 12.4 is at the amp and my voltage at the front battery drops to about 12.9 & 13. Would i gain any dbs if i upgrade to a bigger alt? I have been thinking about upgrading for awhile now just wanting to know if I'll see any diffference to justifly the upgrade. I am running an audioque 3500d (the old one) @ 1 ohm.

okay i have 2 mtx ta81001 amps straped....@ 4ohms it does 2000 rms .... because i have a D2 btl that is the only safe way i can run it..... my friend has an orion 2500d the silver one with the endcaps..... should i sell my amps and get his...i have meterd with my current setup and did 140.4 on the tl there is a comp this weekend and they are gonna use an ac mic... now i was planing on dropping the sub to one ohm for the burp....but i know that its not safe as those amps arent half ohm stable....should i get his amp? plus an advantage to having his is less headache dealing with one amp...... here are the specs im looking @ 2500d 2500rms @1ohm 81001 1500rms@1ohm x2 = not s…

I will be starting my build log as soon as I get a job, either this month (hopefully) or next month (at the latest) so I want to do everything right any buy the book. I drive a 2003 Saturn Ion with stock alternator for now(depending if I run my sub amp at 1 ohm or 2 ohms) and I have done the Big 2 (Grounds - Engine Block to Frame / 1run and Battery to Frame / 2runs) in Kicker HyperFlex 1/0 AWG. I will be using a Kenwood KDC-X492 (will be upgrading after the build is complete) for head unit with a Epic Center 160 for voltage and bass in older recordings since I listen to a lot of old school music. The subs have not been decided on and the interior speakers have not been de…

Has anyone seen or have this.I would like to know if its worth the money.alil pricey for my taste

Ok so Im kinda stepping up a little bit on the whole sub scene and I kinda got over my head a little bit. I thought I would look to you guys for some guidance. I have bought 2 15" Orion HCCA's. I bought the dual 4 ohm version thinking Id just run 1 big amp. Well my noobness has bit me in the ass. I need a large amp as wasnt really thinking of the amp draw that this would present. So if I can get any suggestions on amp/batteries/alt that I may need I would owe a favor for sure. I know you guys get these questions all the time and I didnt want to be "this" guy but I really have no other choice. I want to learn this instead of just paying some shop to do it for me. …

I have two kicker comp q 12’s dual 4ohm and looking at two different amps , the kicker cxa 1800.1 and the D’Amore engineering E1500.1 . Love the idea of the E1500 but I feel like the kicker would be better power wise just not sure .

ok, the problem is there is a noticable humming noise comming from my t1500-1bd, and its from the amp, not speakers nor subs it is a high pitch noise, and the worst is that when i turn the bass knob, the bass is louders, but then suddenly you start hearing the pitch noice more, and distorts, thats when i need to lower the bass knobs any suggestions thanks

if on my battery i am running a 2 gauge wire to my alternator and a 2 gauge wire to my amps coming from the positive battery terminal post, is ok to wire one 0 gauge wire from the battery to the frame or does it have to be (2)-2 guage wires going from the battery's negative terminal post to frame. in the long run after running two batteries i will come up with close to 5 ground wires that needed to be grounded to the frame and i wanted to lighten the load if possible but if not its cool.

well i was examining my alternator today, and this is the one im gonna send in for exessive amperage to mod. the area circled in red is the place where the wiring harnesses goes to connect to everywhere and it doesnt look like i can run 1/0 gauge, and if i keep the stock wire, for sure it will catch fire. Comments, ideas?