Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Would i need a 4 channel RCA to run 2 amps and 2 subs?

So I wired up my brothers bmw, put in a pioneer HU and ran power to a 1200 watt amp with 2 12” subs. Now the 1st amp worked for a few months then just turned off, the 2nd and 3rd worked for a week. I checked and double checked all wires and there’re good. He took it to a radio shop and they said it was because his power and ground wires weren’t pure copper, he left with the system working and the next day the amp went into protection mode. Also the amps were blowing fuses, can anyone give me some advice on what the issue may be. Thanks in advance

I'm about to order an XS Power D925 for the second battery in my suv. I have a bigger battery upfront i got from o'reilly's. It's not a deep cell but it's about the biggest I could get with out spending a ton cuz i was on a budget. Now my question is should i buy a different battery for upfront? My goals are just to get my voltage to stay at a constant voltage. My amp draws around 1500 rms and when i upgrade will probably be in the 1700-2000 rms range. What do you guys think?

I know theirs many of these posts about people asking for a good amp to run there sub but I thought id post my own topic to fit my standards...I have/on the way a 15" Fi SSD. Even though I still haven't received my subwoofer and haven't heard it on my current amp I still don't think my US AMPS XT2000D is going to feed it the power i want. with that being said I want some ideas on a good amp that can put out as much power or a good recommended amount of power to push the SSD. my price range would have to be around 200$ or so...idk just thought id get some ideas if i were to get one soon.

Hifonics BXi1606D - 1600w RMS x 1 ohm U.S. Amps XT-4000D - 1500w RMS x 1 ohm both are close in price but the us amps is considered entry level and the hifonics isnt not sure what do you guys think? using them on 2 12" RE SEs at 1 ohm heres the data sheet on the hifonics theres nothing really similar for the XT though

Ok so I have done the Big 3. Have a jeep grand cherokee. Found out the alt stock is 110amps. I am running a 100.4 amp and an alpine mrd1005d. Looking to get a deep cycle battery up front and a bigger alt. Battery i have up there now is 11 long and 7.5 wide. I looked at the battery basket and measured 13 long. I was thinking a powermaster d3100 up front. Just am trying to brainstorm some ideas and figure out a few different product choices. Also the Sea tweeters sound very nice. Barely need any power to get loud which really surprised me. Almost got those Excel mids dialed in and the midrange clarity is def worth it.

Hello all, my set up is pretty basic..kenwood radio and eq, kicker 1200 mono class d amp for my jl 13w7 and kenwood 100x4 interior amp. Also I have a optima red top under the hood and a stinger battery in the trunk all ran with 0 gauge from and I did the big 3. I still have the stock 100 amp alt which im replacing with a 180 amp and also, I never play my system with the car not running. Right now my lights dim and at night when I press the gas pedal my lights get brighter, so will the new alt stop that? And whats the highest that I should have the gain on my sub amp? Thanks in advance for any help

So I'm about to purchase a second battery for my car. My questions are the following. Only one fuse is needed (just like in my current setup, same one I currently have)? and it still goes between the last battery and the amplifier, no more than 12" away from amp, correct? The batteries are very close to each other (trunk), do they need to have their black (ground) terminals connected to each other or can each battery have their own ground? (I know for the red (positive) they must be connected to each other or else this wouldn't work). No problems if my main battery is a D2400 and my second is a D3100? After plugging in the second battery, should I let the car ac…

How can you tell the crossover points on this 2way:

How big power wire i should get for my kenwood KAC-9104D. 10mm2 16mm2 20mm2 I was thinking about 20mm2.

Just ordered my crescendo 5500... Great customer service .... Real customer friendly people.... Now i can sit and wait for my Early Birthday gift to myself.....

Ok so I have an Adassa Audio The Warlord amp and I was setting the gains with a 50hz test tone and a dmm and right when I got it at 70 volts it started to fluctuate. It went down to 66v then 60v then 50 and so on. It got to the point where I turned up the gain 100% and it was only giving out 51v!! I shut everything down and waited a while because the amp was hot and when I tried to set the gains again it worked for a while (stayed at 70v) but then dropped back to 60v. I now think something is wrong with the amp. Has anyone heard of this problem? I am thinking about sending it to Chris at db-r.... opinions? Thanks!

Two questions 1) Does the AQ2200 have a regulated power supply? 2) Would the AQ2200 be able to run 2 FI Q 15's with BP power, or would that be too much power for the subs? Thanks

Ive got a 15" SSD with the flatwind coil option. Just wanting to know what amp would be better, and if the audio que puts out more than 870 @ 2ohm

I have a yellow top under the hood with the big 3 done in stinger 1/0 an a run of stinger 1/0 to the rear batts. One is a kinetik hc 1400 to a hc 1200 so 2600 total. Wired to two kicker zx1000.1 my question is the one single run of stinger 1/0 to the rear OK? It's ofc .

i have 2 batteries up front right now and plan to add some more wattage to my system. i am thinking of building a bracket ot hold a dedicated alt for 3 AGM's in the back and run 2 lead acid up front for the rest of the vehicle. however i wounder if this is necessary, is there a way to have 3 batteries in back and 2 in front with a single alt and have it setup for the stereo to only pull power from the rear battery bank and have no voltage drop/draw from the front 2 batteries for the rest of the car? i was thinking the only way to eliminate voltage drop to the factory electronics was to get a dedicated alternator and battery bank but i thought id ask here before installing…

hi, i am looking at batteries i am wondering which would be better. kinetic or powermasteror stinger , this is for under the hood and the biggest kinetic i can get is the hc1400 ( because of height) and the biggest powermaster that i can fit is either the PWM-D2400 but if i go with the powermaster would it still be ok to have like the hc2400 in the back or should i go with 2 PWM-D3100 it is going to be a 3k rms system i belive. also i i was looking at stinger's battery too since they are short. my max height is like 8.3" the powermaster's push it then there is the 1400 then stingers are like 7" ( i have to remeasure to see what stinger can fit. also though how big of a b…

I have an older(99-01timefame) lil wonder 4 that I have misplaced the crossover/filter sip chips for. Does anyone know if they are an electronics supply house item or will I need to contact Soundstream to replace them?

cause I dont want to but another rca cable NOW when im just going to get a couple inst. kits later down the line. I have my my 4channel amp running only the fronts right now with a rca cable and no inputs to the rear soooo its ok if I hook up all the wiring to the high input harness and leave out the fronts input?

http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=105561

i am looking at getting a jbl 1200 watt amp, i found 1 on sounddomain, but have not found much else. The one i found on SD was the powervalve BP, i found one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5700553298&rd=1 which would be better suited for 2 adire shiva 12's in a ported box

I just visited the Db-R online store,and noticed they sell new products as well as refurbs. Has anyone bought from them ,and do refurbished amps used upgraded parts or originals ? And are they reliable after being repaired? Thanks !

So, I'm currently in the process of setting my gains for my 4 channel amp and mono amp. I've been researching on how to properly set your gains using a digital multimeter, and it seems like every forum and website tells you a different way to do it. The SSA forum stood out to me and made the most sense about gain setting, but it still left me with a few questions. My first question is should i set my gains for the 4 channel amp first or the mono, or does it even matter? When i set my gains for the 4 channel amp i will be using a 0 dB 1000Hz test tone, but what i'm not sure of is what settings should i use for my head unit? A lot of people say to set everything to 0. I'm …

nevermind..hehe what if i can't reach the engine block ground? will that be alright? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

I have a samll problem and maybe someone here knows what is happening. I have a line driver on my amps so here it goes. I turned the gains on the LD up to about 1/2 way. I then proceeded to set the gains on the amps using a DMM and 50hz test tone to volume level 26 on my HU. Everything was good until I played music. It doesn't seem to matter which song I play. When I get to about 22-24 (depends on song) the sub amp cuts off. It's not in protect mode it just turns off entirely. My door/dash speakers warble, then go to producing a clicking noise. If I turn the car off and let it sit for a couple minutes, everything works fine when I turn it back on. Keep in mind t…