Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

no upgrded alternator yet but im in the process of looking for one for a 2003 saturn ion, the stock alternator is 105 amps. the starting battery is stock and i will be getting a xs power d2400 for my secondary battery for the 3000 watt rms system first and then change my starting battery. i wanted to know which one would be better just for starting purposes even though i know red tops are designed just for starting a vehicle best. i have researched and heard pros for a yellow and pros for a red, why would i want a yellowtop as a starting battery if i have a xs power battery in the back?

i running two zcon d2 12's. with 2 deka 9a31 and stck alt until mid summer. i have 3 runs of 1/0 + and - . dont have much electronic in my car since it a 1975 chevy. been debating on the two amps but not sure which one will be more effiencent. through my company i can get two t2500 for 1050. i really like the look of nendo but i hear they are power hungry. any advise would be great.

im stuck... help me. both 1 ohm daily .25 burps. on 300 mechman and 3 dekas

why don't i see or hear much about these guys anymore? i guess i missed something

im deciding between these two decks for awhile now and i wanted to know who has which and what they like about it. I can get the x889 for $218 or i could pay an extra $100 and get the pio 860mp.Now ive heard that the pio is alot easier to use and might have a better eq and other stuff but is it better then the x889 and worth the extra $100???

well my batterys i have is 1d4300 in the front and 2 3100 in the trunk i have aso a mechman 270 alt for my car my voltage reads in the front 14.1-14.2 but since my voltmeter in the back and off my amp it shows at the highest 13volts why could that be i just charged the batterys as well so idk any help

These r the 2 amps I been lookin at.I kno the rf is alil pricey but I can get it for alil more than the nendo they will b powering either 2 12" ssd or a pair of icons.what do u guys think

Like the topic says. I just installed an electric fan to my truck and have noticed a slight voltage drop when the fans kick in. With the system I have in the truck, I'm wondering If this might be something I need to do. I need some help on this cause I'm pretty clueless with this. Here's what I got in the truck 2 Miniliths 1 Old school RF punch amp (running the rear spakers) 1 Draconia

Well I was planning on getting the Sundown 2500 until it went to 815 dollars, there is no way I have the money for that, I can dish out maybe 600 tops...was looking at the HiFonics Brutus 2400, but I dont know if they are good or not, everywhere I have looked they have positive feedback...any suggestions??

So who is running what.........how do you like it compared to past head units? I am currently running a Panasonic Q 903...... and it is by far the best HU I have ever had. I had 4 Kenwoods prior to this one incuding a 715X....and this panasonic just blows it outta the water! :ph34r:

Alright got my system all ready to go and wired for tuning. First i set my gains using an oscilloscope on my sub mono amp. All went well. Then i set my gains on my 4 channel amp. All went well. I plugged in the speakers, and i am getting high pitch scratching noises that vary and change intermittently. When I turn off the subwoofer rca output from the headunit to the rear, the sub no longer gets any signal obviously.. but if i have rcas plugged into the 4 channel amp...... the sub then starts playing music! could this be my twisted pair rca cables? should i switch to coaxial?

Looking for a quality amp that can push about 1200 - 1500 actual RMS @ 2 ohms. Class D and smaller design prefferred, mono block. This is for my L7 sub Been looking at the new Kicker amps. i like how small they are, and are CEA certified but want to see if i could find better out there. Also checked out Sundown 1500D amp but tests show only pushes 985 watts @ 2 ohms actual output. Hard to find amps with proper real world ratings.

I'm looking for a solid amp for my mids and highs, 125-150 rms @ 4 ohms. A friend of mine is pushing me towards the Jl 300.2 but I know there are cheaper alternatives that are just as good. I'd like to keep the price around 200-300$. Thanks for any input!

I've been doin some research about this so if i make a mistake, let me know. I got a chart from the12volt that lets me know what inductors and capacitors to use for a desired slope and roll off and diagrams for slope configurations. I also know what VDC one should shoot for based upon power used. Now, i would like to start studying the parts themselves. I'm starting with capacitors first. From what i'm reading, for high quality, low distortion use, to use caps that start with poly-... preferably polystyrene film caps. I would like to purchase all my parts from partsexpress.com and these are the ones they offer- Audiocap Theta Polypropylene Film Auricap Metallized Film Day…

new project

I recently installed a new amp. I had a Sundown saz 1500 on my btl n2 12", and now I run a Sundown saz 3000. The box is 2.1 ft3 net, slot ported to 32 Hz. I am a little ...worried ! I thought the change would be HUGE, but no, it is not ! I think it's louder, but I've never mesured it. Do you think I expected too much from the new amp ? My electrical seems to handle that power fine, I did not expect that !!! Only 2 batteries on a (solid) stock alt. I have a diesel engine.

Are DD amps worth the money? I sold my saz2500 because it was in okk shape and a guy offered me 460 for it. Kinda scratched and a few dents so I took it. I came across a DD M3a for 520 shipped. Is it a good deal? Does anyone else run digital design amps? Any experience with them, good or bad?

i was looking to see if anyone in the orange county area had a dd1 that i could use really quick to set my buddies gains. we could bring some beers out for the hassle. i was hoping to get it done some time next weekend or whenever is best for the owner of the dd1 thanks!

When i try to turn on my truck it crancks but then it doesnt go on.. I try again and it clicks...if i get a jump it starts and it shows normal voltage...i unplugged my system but it still keeps on doing it...plus i have the big 3 and the fuse from alt to batt melted...not blown just melted the casing...

I purchased a Sundwn 3000d last week and will be getting it in soon. I was just curious about what Size fuse I would need to run from rear battery to amp? 150a, 200a, or 250a? I currently have 150a fuses from my sundown 1200amp that I use to own. Now that I upgraded to the 3000d sundown, I wasn't sure what size fuse to run between this amp and rear batt.

i just hooked my system up, and every now and then, when i have it turned up, both my amps shut down, like the remote was coming undone at the deck. deck stays on and all, amps dont give me protect lights they just turn off for a few seconds and come back on (not always off for the same length of time) my electrical system is all stock, i believe its only a 105 amp alternator, 4 gauge wire back to the distributor, and 8 gauge to the amps. any ideas?

I have two batteries a yellow top duralast under the hood and kenetik hc1800 with a us md2d on 1 15" fi bl and a pioneer gm-6400 for my highs; stock alt< no battery isolater; i"m putting out 13.2 volts i'm trying to put 14v +. How can i make the that happen? Wrong information: it"s puttin out 14.4v but when the sub comes in its drops to 13v - 12v - 11v; so what can i do to correct this?

If you do not know what these are, i'll explain it then go into great detail about the design application and see if it's what you want... Fluxcaps are not fake, this isn't a movie joke, it is an actual device name given to a special capacitor that does many things- It is a Battery isolator, Voltage Booster!, and capacitor all in one. Standard versions put out a constant 14.7v(some restrictions may apply...) but this topic isn't for 14.7v... this topic is for 18v electrical system. This device can be used on a stock or aftermarket 12v electrical system to bump up the voltage all the way to be able to charge or run an 18v electrical system to get the most power out of your…

i will be running 2 sa-12 d4s need help on what amp i should get both seem realy good !! i can get a refurb sundown for 320 shipped or i can get a crescendo bc2000 new for 339 i like the fact that the cresendo is new and i love the color scheme but on the other hand i think the sundown will put out a little more please help !!! i no i have been a pain lol keep changing my mind over and over and have been talking about doing a system for a while but i have one sundown already the other will be here thursday and like i said im ordering my amp tomorrow just want to make sure theres not something im missing i think i would be happy either way its going to be an upgrade…

The amp wiring kit is :NVX XKIT84 (100% Copper, 4-Channel True Spec 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit w/ RCA Interconnect and 65 ft Speaker Cable) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_66498_NVX-XKIT84.html This is the amp it will be used with : Hifonics Zeus ZRX1000.4 - 1000W 4-Channel Class A/B Zeus Series Car Amplifier http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html Just wondering if that is a good decision? It also comes with speaker wires. Edit: i just read that a 4 gauge amp wire might be better? but is it needed for this? or should this 8 gauge wire be fine? Also the speaker wire it come…