Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have 60' (40' clear/silver, 20' blue) of Monster 400 Series 1/0. I need another 100' (40'clear/silver, 60') blue though. So I was wandering if I should bother hunting like crazy for more Monster, which I have been doing, or sell it all and get some Knu Fleks 1/0. Basically, should I hunt for another 100' of Monster 400, or say screw it and get 160' Knu Fleks?

I have an alpine cda-9886 HU with pxa-h100 sound processor and ktx-h100 tuning kit. I'm thinking about selling this setup and getting the pioneer deh-p800prs. I'm looking for opinions. I'm working on a revamp of my system and wanting to go active. I know it's possible with the alpine, but i'm not happy with the eq settings i can access with the deck and i don't want to have to hook up a computer to get better sound. Also the ipod interface isn't that good. I haven't played with the pioneer with an ipod. It would also simplifiy my install going wtih the pioneer(no extra box under my seat). I figure my 9886 with accessories is worth around $350. I can get a p800prs for aro…

Like the title states. I need an amp to power 1 incriminator audio lethal injection DVC 4 ohm sub 600rms. I want something that's reputable and not something that is going to take a crap like that China stuff (no offense). Brand/ model names would be great, I know this isn't the 4 sale section but if you're selling something that's good and suites my needs, PM me with price, brand/model name, and condition THNX to all

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone hear has any experience with critical mass amps. I know they are crazy money but that isnt my concern. I just want to know if they can throw out decent power. I had picked up the v2 series pretty cheap and have not used them yet. I didnt want them, but my buddy needed money for his house. Any input good or bad would be nice. I have put a side the money for a sundown 1500d for the summer, but in the mean time i was thinking of swaping my pdx 1000-1 for the critical mass v2 sub amp. Should I do it? (the v2 are the smaller black ones)

I have a cheap 300w amp that I plan to run to my doors and 6x9's in rear deck. I already have a run of 1/0 to my 1000w mephis amp. I was wondering if it is a good idea to run a short run of about 12-16g wire from the power inputs on the mephis where the 1/0 is, and from there to the power inputs on the 300w to keep from having to put in another run of power cable from battery to the trunk. I tried this already just to power the amp and it worked, but I didn't have any speakers wired to it. Would this be logical, or would it mess something up?

I have an 02 Ford F250 5.4l XLT CrewCab truck. I 'm running: (1) 12" 09 BL with a Diamond Audio 1000.1 (4) Polk db6500 components with a 1000.4 Yellow Top 250A Rhino Alternator Ever since I installed the BL I've been dimming. I probably have to install a seperate battery but I dont understand why I'm dimming when I got a new 250A Alt? I though the amp makes the power?

how much ah of power do u think i would need to run (2) soundstream d-tower 3400 watts and (1) sundown 100.4? by the way im using kinetik cells

Anybody have any suggestions, pros or cons about this? I have a nice JVC (forget the model#) that has a bad a@@ equalizer and five volt preouts, and basicly everything I want in a headunit. I've done a lot of research on here and in general about line drivers, some people swear by them and some say they are a waste of money. Anyways I came across an Audio Control video that explained the said line driver and they were saying that like power wire rca's tend to lose a little power with longer runs and could possibly pick up noise and such. In general I'm looking to get just the cleanest signal I can get and was wondering if i could get that by adding this piece? I'm not wor…

ok so i learned with my last amp not to bolt it to the box.....well ive got my newest one bolted down between my front seats with the sub replacing the back seat and the amp is vibrating to much and cuts out. but i tap it and press down on it to keep it from vibrating and its fine.....now what i wanna know how can i mount the amp im getting in a few weeks so i wont have to worry about this problem happening to a brand new amp after awhile....anyone else ever have this problem?

Howdy, I installed my second Iraggi alt but am having trouble wiring the second one into the system without them fighting each other. Anyone have any experience doing this??

does anyone think soundstream spl amps put out tru watts or are they garbage?

I have a 2001 Blazer 4 door 4.3L 2WD and i think my alternator is bad. The things i have nticed are when i have the car at idle and i give it gas to about 3000RPM and let it go, the volts according to the gauge cluster go from 14.16 down to 13 volts and then it jumps back to 14.13-16 on idle. Another thing that i have noticed is i have a 1000watt RMS car audio systm and when i have my music up decently loud. My sub cuts out until i lower the volume a bit. The battery i have unde the hood is a brand new optima yellow top. The one with the light grey casing. I also have the big 3 upgrade using 1/0 tsunami oxygen free compotion power wire. My grounds on my amps are good. Ful…

Anyone know of any amps that are under 9 3/4" width, needs to be rated atleast 1200watt at 2 or 1ohms on 1 channel. Found a couple hifonics but there 9 3/4 and 9 1/2. Any suggestions?

i was reading the tutorial and i see where i did a few things wrong, mainly setting the gain where i usually listen to my music n stuff. what i wanna ask is as far as using the test tone to set it i NEVER play cd's in my radio i always use my mp3 player via aux port. it plays WAY louder then my cd's do so should i set it that way or only do it by cd? next as far as setting up the bass boost before setting the gain i see it says use the center of 45hz( thats the center on my amp) do i use a 45 hz test tone too or still use the 50? also WTF do i set "Q" at?

alright heres the deal, I just bought a T shaped distro block with an 1/0g input and 2 1/0 outputs. I planned on on running 1/0g to a sundown 50.4 and a sundown 1500 but when i got the 50.4 today the power input looks like the biggest size i can use is 4g. So im wondering what the best way to solve this would be...can i just put 4g wire in the 1/0g output? or would it be better to get a different dblock? And before i order the 1500 i was wondering if it only accepted 4g max too

i'm looking for the best quality. sound and build.

1st the alarm ? is how many of u guys dont have alarms and live in not so safe neighborhoods? like i live in a not so safe area of my town w/ no alarm and my sub sittin in the back seat and the amp bolted between my front seats w/ no alarm i worry but not that much cause im usually awake all night and can hear my old doors squeak if they open but if sumone did get in it it would take 2 people to get the sb out anyone else go unprotected? 2nd is about amps in a few weeks i will be getting a new amp and h/u. if i can find a used sundown or a refurb at a decent price i for sure want that. as of now i only need 1000rms but i wanna get enough power to not have to get another …

If you have one post up your opinion please.

My first official post of audio haha . Just had a quick little question, I have a 18" Fi BL and i want a good amp for it. So i am deciding to get a 1200 AudioQue amp or a Rockford Fosgate 1500-1bd. Any idea which amp I should get. Thanks guys !

Here's what I want: single din MP3/WMA Bluetooth USB 3 sets pre outs In the past I was always partial to Nakamichi but no Nakamichi head unit has the options I'm looking for. I used to have a Pioneer 8600 and it was great so I could say I'm a Pioneer fan as well. I've been looking around, kind of leaning towards a Pioneer Premier 610BT, a Pioneer 1610BT or an Eclipse CD5030 or an Eclipse CD3200. Any personal preferences out of these or could I look at some others? I'd like to stay under $250 if possible.

hey everyone, so today i went to harbor freight tools, got a DMM on sale for 3.00 dollars, the name brand was cen-tech, heres the link CEN-TECH MULIMETER so anyways i got home, logged on, looked on the stickies for the Setting gain with DMM tut and i done everything i was suppose to, minimized HU Settings,bass,treble,etc, used a 50 hz tone 0 db, and when i connected the DMM to the speaker output with no load, i had to set the gain almost at 3/4 to get my voltage i have a hifonics bxi 1200 watt amp at 1 ohm load on 2 12" pioneer 308D4 rated at 400 rms per sub HU is kenwood MPC205, 2 volts at sub pre-out 1200 wrms at 1 ohm load so 34.64 Volts is what im striving for on my d…

Hello, I am wanting to upgrade my OEM alternator before I blow it . I am looking at an Iraggi 200 amp for $399 or 220 amp for $439. I dont mind the extra $40 so I am thinking 220 amp. Mechman is also an option as many people in my area give good reviews. The only downside is they dont make one for my car. If they did I wouldnt be writing this. Currently I have a 2009 Toyota yaris 4 door sedan. 1 JL Audio 1000/1 powering 1 15" Fi BL Loaded. Also 1 600 x 4 amp for mids and highs. I have another JL 1000/1 sitting in my closet begging me for some action. I want to do the alt. upgrade first then Big 3 then a yellow top or kinetik or something. ( Im upgrading grounds imm…

would anybody be able to tell me were i could get a voltmeter for my dash im looking for just a basic one any advice would be helpful

O.k. here is the deal. I have 8 sets of SoundStream RF-60C component speakers (6" midwoofer, 25mm tweeter, and crossover). I just found out that I have 2 blown crossovers (so far). Being that each set has a rms power rating of 180watts, I thought I could get away with running 1 crossover per 4 midwoofers and 4 tweeters. This gives me a 1.7Ohm load. I was just told not to do that as the crossover will not handle the power. O.k. then, my next question goes here. Since the amplifier that I will be using has a built in crossover, do I really need to use the crossovers that come with the components? I am pretty sure this can be done without a problem, but want to be sure. I kn…

Hey All, I was just wondering what electrical necessities I would need. I have a 99 Honda Accord Sedan. Right now I have stock alt, Kinetik HC1800 up front and 0/1 guage wiring for my sundown 100.4. That is all currently hooked up. I was planning on hooking up my next amplifier which would be the Sundown 1500d with either a 12 or 15 FI BL. I think I am leaning towards a 12 because of space issues in the trunk. Anyways what other electrical upgrades do I need? Would I need a second battery in the rear? Would i need a new high output alternator? Or is this even necessary? Thanks for all the help