Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

right now my battery is grounded to the front of the drivers side head (which is aluminum) i get a bit of noise every now and again through the front speakers and probably inaudibly through the woofers. the passenger side head is grounded to the chassis, above the motor. its all 4 gauge. i'll get a better ground by grounding the battery directly to the chassis right? then i just leave the head grounded above the engine the way it is? i know it needs to be bare metal, but can i just ground it anywhere thats metal on the body of my car, or does it need to be directly to the frame?

if im wrong feel free to help in anyway. i assume i would need to upgrade my alternator, just a givin. then add about 3-4 batteries that output that voltage while using a device that seperates the batteries in the back from the one under the hood, but also charges the batteries in the rear. of course whole car can not be ran anything more than 14 volts on a 12 volt system(14.4 was the most i seen but i could be wrong) so the battery under the hood would be different than the one's in the rear. and could anyone fill me in about the missing link module, i know its not good to charge the batteries on 15.4 volts but i think it has a button to switch between from 15.4 to 14.4,…

I will try to post pics soon. The question is has anyone ever installed the big 3 on this model of a vehicle. 2009 Ford Explorer 4.6Lt? I have been looking at my electrical and there is ll kinds of run offs from the positive wire from battery. There are 2 that run from positive into the fuse box, and at least 2 more that split off into I haven't found where yet. Seem like a lot. My question is would it be OK to keep those running to where they are going and still run 0 gauge from Alt to battery using a bus bar or similar? Also with the ground question there are several split offs from the ground battery terminal to the chasey, should just through those on top of my 0 gaug…

Hey guys. I have 4 D1 coil subs and I want to wire to a final load of 2 ohm. Here is that: What a mess!!! My question is can I wire 2 pair like so at 4 ohm and run each to the amps bringing the final load to 2 ohm final? This option would allow me to run heaver ga wire and make wiring much easier. My amps manual says to run master positive to sub positive and slave positive to sub negative with a jumper wire running from master negative to slave negative. My 2 D1 subs are currently wired like so using all 4 speaker inputs on the amp to bring the load to 1 ohm. Let me know if I am not being clear about something and Thanks in advance for any help!

Should I keep my old amp (Rockford 800.2) pushing 200 watts X 2 RMS (800 X 1 bridged) or my brand new Hifonics 1000D. Hard decision. =\ Is the Hifonics 1000 X 1 RMS? Or 1000 max power? I think my Hifonics can run more stable at 1 ohm.

what would happen to the rf t1500-1bd amp if connected to 8 ohms, reason is that im waiting for sum subs, and while waiting, i would like to try the new amp, but the subs would be a pair of kicker C10 single 4ohm, temporary until 10" chaos come home thanks Irvin

hey... i was wondering... if you paint an amp, will it hinder the cooling process of the heatsink? i wanna paint a Profile CA400 black to match the dual EU box.

So i installed the radio about 2-3 months ago now and have loved everything about it. then, on December 29th i was driving downtown and my faceplate died. I still had music but i had no control over anything. Volume didn't work, seek, station change, cd eject, AND the remote didn't do shit either. Ok, so it went a week with no problem so i figured nothing was wrong. then friday night i was going to listen to the Zcon that TeamRamRod has and it did it again to me. i pulled over, turned my truck off, and opened the door to cut power to my radio. turned truck on and it worked. Saturday, i drove to east lansing to see my girlfriend. Turned truck off, went into her apartment t…

Ok, I'm looking to put a new H/U in. Here are my parameters: -nav built in bluetooth built in -ipod control -dvd -double din -5.8" or bigger screen -sub pre outs Right now, I'm leaning towards the Pioneer Premier f90bt. A friend of mine has one and I'm really impressed with it. I can find it for about $650 new and $475 refurb on Ebay(would you guys trust a refurb???) The only thing I don't like about the unit is the cd slot. Its petty, but I'm used to flipdowns where the slot is behind the face. I think it looks a little sleeker, plus you get an extra inch or so of screen. Opinions on this unit? Anybody have any suggestions for similar units, preferably around the same pr…

So i have an Fi Car Audio SSD 12 inch Subwoofer and a planet audio amp and the box is a groundshaker sqpxl 1 12 at 33 -35hz and how do you guys think i should tune my amp to this setup

I want to buy and install an amplifier for a new sound system for a car. I'd like the amplifier to not clip, and I'm willing to sacrifice a little bit of dynamics for extra loudness when I want it. In the world of music production we regularly obtain these goals with an effect called a brickwall limiter. It's basically a special type of compressor that guarantees that the sound never passes a certain threshold. Do they make car audio amplifiers with brickwall limiters (or at least compressors) inside them?

Okay, I REALLY didn't plan it this way but I'm thinking about taking advantage of my new found surplus of amps. The reason for my dilemma is two fold. First off I decided to buy the IA 6.4 from Ohjay to power the SLS 8's in my Jimmy when I finally get to installing them. So I eventually plan on installing it anyway which brings me to the other side of the coin. This weekend I ran into some issues with the SAX-125.2 running as it should. First off I've noticed lately that the midbass is great some days and others it simply feels weaker than it should. I was attributing that mostly to my imagination and some psycho acoustics. Then this weekend after running the syst…

I really hope somebody out there can help me. I have a Fusion amp(FP-1000) I also have a remote bass control for the amp. Which is a little box that goes up front with you, giving you the feature to be able to control the gain on the amp. It is connected to the amp by a telephone like plug and cord. Here is the picture of it. http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/products.php...p;product_id=97 I am not sure if they let you post links on here, sorry if you can't see or read the link. I went back to the shop that installed the audio setup in my car. He feels really bad for the bass control that I have now stopped working. He contacted Fusion to get me a new one which fusion says t…

Which amp would work best with 2 alpine type Rs 12". Either an alpine pdx 600 watt or alpine mrp m1000? and what ohm would you run it at 2 or 4?

My voltage is dropping down to 12.4 at high volume this is off an 180 amp alt with three battery in the back (kinetik 2@2400 & 1@1400). The 12.4 is at the amp and my voltage at the front battery drops to about 12.9 & 13. Would i gain any dbs if i upgrade to a bigger alt? I have been thinking about upgrading for awhile now just wanting to know if I'll see any diffference to justifly the upgrade. I am running an audioque 3500d (the old one) @ 1 ohm.

anyone here heard of nvx? how do their amps rank up against the rest? interested to hear your opinions and experiences.

I have 2 american bass hd 15s an starting off with a crecendo 2000d till i get another one.i have 1 redtop opt i want to put under the hood an a yellowtop opt in the trunk.i want to no will i b ok with this bein thats its 2000watts or should i do more ?

Hi, I will be doing 2 15" Icon build on a crescendo BC2000D etc in a Dakota crew cab and have two nice decks in my possession. a Kenwood KDC-bt945u and a Clarion VZ401 DVD deck. Ive done a lot of researching on pre-out voltage but have seen so many opinions to as if it really does make a huge difference or not. Basically the Kenwood has 4v preouts and the Clarion has 2v. I like both decks but would love to have the dvd screen but not at a major loss of output or sound quality. My question is, will I notice a difference or should I go with the Clarion? Thanks,

So i got a double din installed on my car and after about a month my system would just randomly turn off(headunit would power off and same with subs and amp) it did it once then would reboot. I took it in they changed the wire harness and the ground. It fixed it for about 2 days i then decided to change my negative battery cable and that fixed it for a few months and then it came back and i noticed that with the head unit turned off that there was a bass note from the subs playing real faint until i turn the bass knob it gets louder. What could be the issue on why my head unit turns off by its self faulty head unit, bad amp need help asap.

I am not going to be ready to buy for about 6 more months. I just don't have the expertise as to brands and availability for my particular application. I would like to see 140amps. Any direction is much appreciated. Thanks, Chris

For over a year now I thought my amps were fully shutting down when the dome lights did. They have not been, but I didn't start suffering low volatge the next morning until recently.... which means that my batteries must have been stronger before but doing this over a year has damaged them marginaly. Today I was waiting for my GF with the ACC in the off. After 15 minutes the toggle switchs shut off and the deck shut off...as they should. I looked in back, sure enough the amps were off... wait... the red lights on the 3 KX amps were off and the blue display was off on the SX...but I saw a faint green glow. I stuck my head through the port and looked at the bottoms of the a…

I would like to know what makes a alternaor company good verses a crappy one? What makes it charge at 14.4, what determines amps at idle, etc etc. etc.? Basically the innerworkings of a alternator. Would a rebuild kit be better?

whats a good amp for a fi ssd with flatwind coil and bp option added? thats not a high price tag preferably under $300

I tried to ground my rca today because i have really bad engine noise, but it didnt work. I took speaker wire and touched it to the rca. (the outside metal part) then touched it to metal in my car, but the noise was still there. Am i doing it wrong? Could it be something else?

i JUST GOT MY AMP TODAY. i HAD A QUESTION. I WAS EXPECTIN THE REMOTE THAT COMES WITH WAS SUPPOSE TO BE A GAIN CONTROL. wELL ON THE KNOB IT SAYS "BASS CONTROL" AND I WENT ON AUDIOQUE WEBSITE. I LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND I NOTICVE THAT MY AMP HAS ANOTHJER DIAL THAT SAYS BASS BOOST...... I JUST WONDERED WHEN THESE STARTED COMING OUT....