Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Well yesterday my dad was helping me run some wires in my car and decided to shake the hell out of my amp. When he did it ripped out all of my speaker wire connections and everything. So i reconnected everything and checked my connections everywhere but the amp is still not working. My dad is thinking its my RCA splitters. What i was wondering is there a way to test my RCA's with a DMM? Also would a violent shake make the amp quit working? It powers on theres just no output. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

okay i had my mind set on getting these amps 2 of them. after hearing my friends 2010d powering 2 15" ssd's it sounds really really good. every "expert" i've talked to said those are the best amps for the buck right now and HIGHLY recommend them. and i've seen a 2010d power 8 12" AQ's for a long time (5 months) before it overheated/blew. i've always heard (a few years ago) that they have overheating problems. but then again i heard the 2010 models have a different circutiy. i'm really confused on this i do not have the money to spend on "testing" amps anymore and i'm tired of blowing money on low end equipment. so anyways i had my mind set on 2 bxi2610's for about a…

I have 4 2600watt amps if i get 4 kenetic 2400's what size alt would i need to power these amps and recharge these batts and what company has them for cheap also can anyone machine or know where i can get alt brackets for the low in case i need 2 alts the car is a 2002 chevrolet suburban

I'm on the search for an affordable amp that will do rated power. Looking for 2000w @ 1ohm. It will be pushing hopefully a pair of Icon 15's or z15's. Electrical: 200amp h.o Alternator Optima yellow under the hood 1/0 Big three. Also on the search for a decent battery to add to the back if need be.

I'll be powering a 12" xcon off a saz 1500d and mli65/not sure about tweeters on a sax 100.4d in a 96 volvo 850 glt. The stock alternator is a Bosch 90amp, and I'll be replacing the stock battery with a Kinetik 1400 (already purchased). I'll probably be putting a kinetik 2400 in the back as well. But will this be enough? I have 235k miles on the car, so not sure if I want to get a heavy duty alt. Also, which charger should I be using: 45, 60, or 80 amp? Posting here since it's 10pm and likely won't get an answer from kinetik soon (holidays), but I did email them anyway.

i was wondering if any one could give me some input on what they think good components are other than focal

Can someone throw me the calculation for RMS wattage, i think it's something about the fuse rating times something else. I Have a Kenwood 4ch amp, with a 15amp fuse wanted to know roughly how much i could possibly expect. Half of all websites arent working at the moment. School server is being funky with the blocking, i think Mr.B needs to reset the filters.

does anybody no the max watts of the nightshade 12inch 2-ohm, and what is the rms of the 1-ohm?

im not too sure what bass boost is or how to properly set it. some of the people i know say i shouldnt use while others say it helps...please help i know probably a noob question.

What is the difference in using a AGM battery instead of a Gel battery when running a secondary battery for an audio system? If the Ah and Reserve Capacity are the same or very similar in both batteries, then how do they differ?

For some reason the fuse on my sundown 125.2 amplifier keeps popping. I do not even get to turn the car on before they pop. Once I go to insert one fuse it pops directly on contact. Can this be because all 3 fuses have to be connected without power going to them (i know that sounds stupid because of the whole current draw thing but I though I would just throw it out there). The fuse connected 18" away from the amp does not pop but the one connected to the 125.2 does. This leads me to believe that the problem lies somewhere else down the line. I checked the power and ground and they are not touching, they are also inputed correctly. The ground is also secured firmly. No …

hey guys a have jbl gto1200 amp going out at 1117 watts rms at 2ohm into a dual 1ohm fi bl 18in my amp doesnt come with a subsonic filter and the sub will be in a ported box tuned to 32 hertz will a fmod at 30 hertz be good?

hey guys my audiopipe ap15001d recently blew up. good thing it is still under warranty. i sent in my registration card about 2 weeks ago but yet to hear from them. has anyone dealt with them before? let me know your experience!

installing my new system and my buddy says no dont run fuses.this is what im running 4 runs of 0 gauge wire from the front battery 2 power 2 ground,in the back i have 2 kinetik 3800s and a 300 amp altenator but the alt wire is fused.there is currently no fuses on the power wires for the truck but have not finished yet so just wondering what everyones opion is.im thinking 2 under the hood one on each power 2 before the batterys in the back and 2 after the batterys in the back.thanks

I did the big 3 last weekend to my 2000 dodge dakota and was woundering about a wiring configuration. I currently have two 0 gaguge runs from the frame to the engine block and two 0 gauge runs from the battery neg. to the frame using the same post on the frame used in the frame to engine block runs. I have one run of 0 gauge from the alt. to the battery positive and a run of 4 gauge from the alt. to the fuse box which was place there by the guy installing the alt. Two Questions: 1) Should I run a 0 gauge from the engine to the battery negative, or should my currently setup be ok? 2) Should I remove the 4 gauge from the fuse box and run it directly to the pos. battery pos…

i decided that i might as well do the big three in my town car, but i have a few questions about it. first, from the batt pos to the alt, im not sure how to connect the 1/0 to the alt. heres a pic of my alt how should i connect it to ther? should i just try and remove that red thing? also, i dont know were the engine block to chassis connection is. could someone please tell me how to find it? heres what the bay looks like another thing... can i just run the pos batt. to alt just straight across to the right and zip tie it to like the radiator hose? thanks for the help!

So I went to a local car audio shop today to see if I could use their DMM. I wanted to get voltage and amp readings to see what my amp was really doing. Of course, first thing he has to be a funny guy and ask me if i need new subs because I replaced the ones I bought from him with a BTL. He lets me use his occilloscope and I take my first reading with car off at batt. 15.5 VOLTS!!! Uh...Wtf? So then Im scared to even start the truck and see what it says then. 18.3 VOLTS!!! SHIT!!! Jumped in under the hood and turned the external voltage regulator set screw all the way down on the alt. This screw was never adjusted by me at all before, mind you. I installed the alt and le…

i have 1 premier prs 3000 and a clarion dpx11500 both are ran at 2 ohm and wqas just wondering the best way to sync them as my box comon chamber.

has anybody heard reviews or have used any hifonics brutus amps? are they good? write back

Got about 12-15 feet of 2/0 run from battery to trunk, going to be running DSC1500.1D @ 1 ohm 1500 rms and DSC280 @ 4 ohms 160 rms. What size fuse should I put next to the batt? Was thinking 250 amp, would that do it? Thanks. If it matters, stock alt 80 amp, Yellow Top 55 ah, Big 3 done in 2 gauge welding cable.

having a saz-3500d or a saz-4500d , how many speakers could u hook up to them?

i have a 1999 mazda b2500 pickup. i am about to install a big three upgrade and was inquiring on a ballpark figure of how much wire to buy. I was thinking around 8 feet or so but how much wire did you guys use?? Thanks, Matt Cusack

i need to find 2 amps that will make my 15" solarbarics pound like no other. they hold a max of 2000w and run at 1000w rms. give me suggestions- i wnt to run 1 of the same amp to each.

long story short. stupid on my part. but i am in the process of getting a thing built so i can hold my box and amp down, without having to screw into the seat or false floor. so for the time being it is freely hanging out in the back of my jeep. the sub slides around alot, the amp barely moves. well saturday night i was driving around with frineds, and went to a part of town i rarely go too, and witht he fresh snow on the ground i didn't see a speed bump (no signs...) well i hit it and i looked int he reiw view mirror, i saw my sub slide, but not really go in the air. i heard my tool box fly up, and i'm assuming my amp did too, as they were by eachother. after it landed,…

So I'm slowly putting together a small system for my 2005 TrailBlazer, No SPL Comps, just want something thats really loud and sound really good... Would be nice if it threw up some impressive numbers... What I have in hand or on the way already: 2 - sets of Polk Audio MM6501s (got them last week) 1 - SAX-100.4D (just ordered it today) Should be here by Monday, maybe Sooner... No hurry though, need more stuff... 1 - SAZ-2000D (Had it for a few months for the Blazer, was gonna order 3 more for its redo, but I got the TrailBlazer, so I'm doing it 1st, then back to the Blazer) 3 Sets of Scoche RCA (Per Jacobs recomendation) Buncha wire and connecters and such.... Things to…