Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

so say if someone was to buy 8 sa-8's and wants to wire them to 1 ohm... would it be easier to take 4, 4 0hm dvc subs, wire them to 2 ohms, and do the same with the other 4, then wire those positives and negatives to the positives and negatives on the amp? or is there an easier way of doing it? i may not even go with 8 sa-8's but if i do i want to understand how to wire up that many subs, because the most ive ever wired up is 2.

Alright, I can get this amp for 350$ maybe a little cheaper. Would this be good for an 18" btl? I don't want to push 4400 rms, becuase my box is 7cb ft, so I figure I could just put the gain down a great amount. I know these are power hungry, but aren't tehy like 450 amp draw? I would have 2 C&D tech batteries (88 amp/hr with a rating of 340 watts/cell), 2 ought wiring, 200 amp alt, and soon down the line upgraded under the hood batt. Would that be sufficient? Would these be a good match if I set the gain according to like 2500 watts?

Im trying to find an amp around 1500-2500w rms and around $250. Any suggestions on any other brand would be helpful. Thanks in advance Here are some amps i seen on ebay for around the price. Im not saying im going to buy these i just want ur input on the brand and price for it.( also if anyone sees some good deals for a Sundown or AQ let me know) Audiopipe AP 1800D http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-AUDIOPIPE-AP1800D-1800W-MONO-Car-Audio-Power-Amplifier-1800-Watt-/270972569696?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item3f17394860#ht_3301wt_1396 Power Acoustik BAMF 5500( what do u guys think about P.A? for the price is this a good amp) http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWER-ACOUSTIK-GT1-4500D-CAR-A…

what did ups just bring...uh ohh is it a.... new alt? from excessive amperage 200a large case one i hope no one that works for UPS needed an alt, i wonder if ths box has an alt in it? packaging was good look at it :naughty: another pic of side back side will install sometime soon, maybe tonight or tomorrow or sunday when ever

Whats your guys opinions on these i know they just came out but we can get preliminary opinions. http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_62_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_63_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_61_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_64_full.jpg

well im saving for a new head unit, my old jvc is not reading my mp3 cds well, the remote wire is burnt, and does not have a direct connection for my ipod i was think about getting a kenwood(http://www.crutchfield.com/s_113KDCX595/Kenwood-Excelon-KDC-X595.html?search=kenwood+car+stereo) but found this jvc with a monitor and gps, but is refurbished(http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9842_JVC-KD-NX5000-R-B.html) which one would be better, it is going on a 2000 silverado, and my interior lights is blue, just in case

Ok, yesterday, I rearranged some things behind my head unit, which was working fine. I put everything back and the HU was working fine. After putting my dash back together I was planning on going to my friends apartment, but when I go to turn on the headlights a fuse blows and my dash lights cut out. I try replacing the fuse and when it blows again I check a few things and say screw it and go inside. CD player still works fine. Today I test things out better. I figured out that when the HU was not wired up the problem does not exist. When I plug the HU back in the fuse blows and such. As a matther of fact the voltage at the battery (all wires still connected) I get 56volt…

Nevermind

Just recently went from 2 ohms to .5 ohms on my Crescendo 3500d and I heard that if you wire down you should always turn down the gain from where you had it originally. I'm really not sure if this is even remotely correct but I did it anyway to be on the safe side. I was just curious if someone could help me out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ssPageName=WDVW if thas an accurate rms power i think i have changed my mind about the power acoustik amp and i'll just get this one, hell of alot cheaper and more power... Unless theres an even better one for cheaper dam, were is every one i've been postin like crazy and no one is even here,

Hey guys, I have a dxz925 clarion deck and wanted to know about the filter on the deck and my amp. Is it all by ear? I currently have the deck lp filter off and the amp around 60-70hz? Hard to tell with the generic dial on the amp. Is it better to have both on? I have a choice of 50, 80, and 120hz on the deck, and 50hz on up on the amp. I notice the subs sound weird when I turn the amp xo up to much, don't know how to describe the sound, but I'm sure you guys know what I'm talking about. So would you recommend me trying? thanks. btw the gains are about 1/2 way up. sealed box, so ssf is off.

What size speaker wire shoudl i use for BTL 18s?? thanksss

I just installed my new HU, it's a Pioneer DEH-P690UB (not the best in the world, but it gets the job done). It has a usb connection to hook up your iPod and other usb mass storage devices. My question is what brand/make of HDD works? I've already tried a few and they are a no go. Reason is I think they are requiring more juice then the usb cable can provide. So if anyone can point me in the right direction and stop me from wasting more time and money trying out different usb hard drives I'd really appreciate it.

I just installed a DC Power Engineering's 250 Amp Altenator XP on my 2010 Camaro 6.2l and the belt squeals on cold startups. My car has 6600 miles on it. I have a new belt on order and will try as soon as it comes in. The alt came with a smaller pulley on it Im wondering if I may need a shorter belt, maybe the tensioner is not tight enough with smaller pulley the Alt came with. Any suggestions? What about changing out the pulley with the stock one? Though Im sure the DC Power Alt came with a smaller pully for a reason?? Scott

I was always told to go for the highest number, but i cant tell any difference in amps with high numbers verses those with low numbers?

Now i have been saving up for a nice system for my mustang for a couple months now and have about $2500 im willing to spend on everything. I'm planning on getting 2 BL12's and 2 SSD10's. Now am i going to need two or more amps for these? And what kind of amp/amps should i get?

OK I got an LED rocker switch from O'reillys to turn h/u on and off on the powerwheels like an ignition. If I hook up the wire from my fuse block to the hot side and the load wire to either other post I get the led but no h/u. If I hook up all 3 posts (pos,load,neg) I blow a fuse as soon as I flip the switch. I don't know if running the red and yellow wire together causes to much draw, or if the ground isnt really a ground? But I'm confused and slightly annoyed...

Should i use a Kinetik 600 Power Cell in my install for my front stage? -- Will it help with my voltage? OR! Will it strain my Alt? I know its only 400wrms.. but i have the Power Cell already. (2) Alpine Type R 6.5 component sets (1) Alpine PDX 4.100 KnuKoncpetz 4 gauge amp kit Yellow top as starter batt. 1/3 Big 3 done. (Batt to frame) Stock Alt -- 80-100 amp (not too sure)

Digital Designs Z2LV, Z-SE, or M4A? Just a thought. I would like to see what you guys think and what kind of numbers have you seen from actual tests.

Clarion DVD head unit with a 7 inch flip out monitor , 2x Kicker CVX 12 inch Dual 4 ohm (750rms) each wired to 1 ohm in a sealed box , Orion 2400D mono channel amp wired @ 1200 watts rms 1 ohm , Memphis M-class 4 channel 75 rms x 4 , Memphis 6x9 in the rear 85 rms each , Eclipse 5.25 inch 3 way components in the front . Optima red top under the hood , Optima yellow top in the trunk , and a Kinetics cap-killer equivelent to 100 1:farad caps . MY QUESTION IS - how do you know what frequency is best suited for your amp/sub setup - to get best spl/sq - or do you just play it by ear ?????????????

Hey guys, As mentioned I'm soon to be upgrading my system and Id like to get your opinions on if I'm on the right track here. Ill start off by what I already have: Car: 2000 Honda CR-V Battery: XS D5100R Big 3: Done with 1/0 Wiring: 2 Runs of 4 gauge to amps Amps: Rockford Fosgate T1000bd and T400-2 Speakers: 2 Alpine type S's up front and 2 JBL GTO 628's in the rear Sub: SSA Xcon D2 15 in a sealed enclosure. As expected I have bad Voltage drop down into the 11's. I will be strengthening my electrical shorty. Short term goals: 1. Add another Xcon and port the enclosure. I am considering doing a wall and sealing off behind and around the rear seats. 2. Replace t…

So, does anybody have any of these. It looks like I am still getting 2, but I need 2 more for an extrreme car we are building....worst thing is, we need the car to compete at the USACi Fresno show on the 2nd YIKES! We have cash & will travel to get these bad doggers, so help a brother out!

Does anyone have an info for me on a replacement gain knob for the audiopipe 1500 amp's? Up till today this amp has been great but it seems the wires inside have came loose and im not the type to bust it open and put it back together.. This isnt my amp its in a good friends car. I have sent emails to the company with no response. Any suggestions? the knob plugs in with a "headphone" looking jack, not the phone cable looking one.

Anyone around Dayton OH know how to change the Big 3 on a car? I do not see how to do it, but maybe someone who knows what they are doing could help me. PM me if you can! There is a Fuse box right off the Positive Terminal that throws me off right away. Then the wire to the Alternator seems to be wired under a plastic cover around the engine. I assume if I do the big 3, all that gets removed from the car? Here are two pics of the Fuse box I am speaking of... http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b...4/Battery01.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b...4/Battery02.jpg And here is a Pic of the Alternator, where it apears the power wire goes up inton that hard plastic cover …

Hey guys what up? I have recently start having problems with my HU that I cant figure out. Ive had it now for about 2 years and I notice last that am getting this static, popping noise when I turn my sterring wheel or turn the sub level up. I also tapped on the HU to see if I would get any noise and I did. It seems as though anytime the HU get a bit of a jolt it starts with the noise, whether its me just tapping on it, turning the steering wheel, or turing up the bass level in the truck. Any suggestions? If am leaving anything out just let me know and ill fill it in. Thanks