Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Its a 2000 watt volfenhag amp. not sure of the exact model. i had it wired at 1 ohm, and from what i have read online the lowest it should be wired is 2 ohm. It started cutting off after 10 mins, then 5, then 2, then it stopped working. I took the cover off, to look for burnt pieces, but i found nothing. it all looked fine. now, what could cause this? can it be fixed cheaply? if not, could i repair a memphis pr 600 using this amps parts? im uploading pics now and yes, i know this is a POS amp, but currently im saving up to buy a fi btl then a sundown amp. ok, photobucket is being gay so ill get pics tomorrow.

We came across a Crunch 1500 watt Power Zone amplifier, P1500.1. it will power up and play music.......... as long as there is some pressure on one of the adjustment knobs..... Take away the pressure and the music output stops. The "Low Pass" filter knob is missing , once the amp is opened up, you see that the whole little box has been removed. so first question is ; can I purchase and install this box ? like is that i DIY type project? second question ; is there any home remedies for the pressure issue? anothere DIY project. If need be, I will send it in and get it fixed, but was hoping to do it cheap, in house. thanks for the input, chop IAK

so im in class right now, and i cant focus cuz im so pissed off. all i have is a brutus 2608 on a Fi BL. running @ 2 ohms (rated 1700 rms). so heres what happened. im on my way to class, which is about a 20 minute drive. the music was on the whole time. probably going half tilt for the 1st half, then going hard for the last 10 mins. i have never encountered any problems with the amp in the past, so im very conused why it decided to shit out. im running a stock alt and battery, which i know is not enough for this amp, but thats what it is. i never properly set my gain, ive always just turned it down when i saw voltage drop or heard any clipping. back to the story, …

hello guys i have an ap15001d, ive been running it at 1ohm feeding 1200-1400 watts to a lvl 4. recently the amp kept on going to protect mode, i use a dmm to measure voltage, shows a result of 0.00 fuse seems to be ok, so is grounding. does anyone know how to find out what's going on? thanks

I just visited the Db-R online store,and noticed they sell new products as well as refurbs. Has anyone bought from them ,and do refurbished amps used upgraded parts or originals ? And are they reliable after being repaired? Thanks !

Hey guys I'm new to the forum. I'm thinking about getting 1 Fi 18" BTL fully loaded and a sundown 1500. I was just looking for some feedback on how that would sound in a 2006 king ranch expedition

ok so i have heard that i need to do the big three and not get a cap i have a few questions regarding this though i have a bmw and the battery is in the trunk, so do i still need to run the alt to batt wire with fuse? i mean stock is a 4 gauge and since stock is 4 gauge everywhere will the big three help at all? or do i just need to buy a new battery my car dims a lot with a small 300w system and i have a new battery and alternator everything is grounded correctly and i run 4 gauge and 16 for the subs Patrick

Ok Im going to have a 220A alternator, two D3100 powermasters batts for the amp, and Im getting 2 AA Mayhem 12s D2 voice coils. Would I be better with the 4500D or 3500D on a 12V system? And is there such thing as wire gauge overkill? Say I run a 3/0 run from my alt to my trunk and its about a 20' stretch. Would it be fine using the 3/0? And when I wire the subs I want to use 4ga wire because the amount of power and I want to be 100% sure the wire is letting as much current through as possible. So would using an excessive AWG of wire cause any 'damage' or reduction in power, or would it not matter?

Okay i was using power acoustik's 5500 1/D amps, just got the one i blew back from the factory (brand new). So i'm selling both and hopefully buying a sundown. i had my heart set on the SAZ-2000D but while at work i was thinking... why not get the SAZ-3000D? i will purchase 2 of either model for 4 SSA ICON 15's D1's Should i get the 3000D or the 2000D? i know the 3000D is going away. the price is only about $100 differance on db-r.

So basically as the topic says, I think my alty is going out. It is causing some whining background noise, and I know all grounds are good, and rca's are clean. I remember having the problem when my old alty when out, and when I got the new one the background noise went away. Any ideas on how to test the alternator? I know you can disconnect battery after vehicle is started, but that it will really only test complete failure...

Ok so I'm in the market to buy another amp for my new sub setup. My Car is a 94 Legend Coupe 6.5" Infinity Kappa Fronts 6x9' Infinity Kappa Rears USAMPS XT1600.4 V2 Amp Running the Kappa's Now I'm needing to power (1) 15-inch RE SXX D2 Subwoofer in a 35hz Ported 3cft Custom Fiberglass/Wood Spare Tire Enclosure These are the amps im looking at : USAMPS MD-2D 1500rms@1ohm $319.99 MTX TE1501D 1500rms@1ohm $369.99 Kicker KX1500.1 1500rms@2ohms $359.99 (if I get this amp I would buy the RE SXX D4 of course) So what amp should I get? The car is a daily driver, so efficiency and SQ is important to a certain extent but not a MUST, im willin to sacrifice some efficiency for power.…

I have plans of adding an additional 3000D and a BTL 18 to my existing 3000D and BTL 18. The problem is that the 3000D is no longer in production, and DB-R is running low. What would my options be if I couldn't get another 3000D when I do the upgrade? I don't think it would work properly if I combined a 3000D on one BTL and a 3500D on the other.... please inform. Thanks!

Not my choice, but this girl needs an amp that does 400 watts @ 2 ohms. List a few ideas for me.

I currently have a Pioneer AVIC-F90BT in my expedition but was planning on getting a 05-06 GTO and was wondering if anyone had one and if there is a dash kit for that HU? I can' find one and don't really know to much about the GTO's stock HU. Thanks

Okay, just for fun and to satisfy my curiosity...... In your opinion, what is the best head unit? Best flip up head unit? by best i mean: sound quality (of course), functionality, easy to use, and lastly; curb appeal and looks.

I recently had an apline head unit installed in a toyota camry. I have a memphis audio amplifier pushing four 6X9's and an JBL amplifier pushing two subwoofers. Everything was working fine in my jeep and then yesterday when it was installed in my camry this happened. The head unit puts out an audio signal to the amplifiers only when using the radio, the cd player and ipod can't be heard through the speakers connected to external amplifiers ( but the cd and ipod can be heard through the speakers that are being pushed through the head unit's internal amplifier).

so do caps actually work or what?

ive seen people around here with them. where did you get yours and could you estimate a price? i have found some for $370 and $380. just wondering if there were any cheapers ones out there withought sacrificing quality. Thank you, Matt Cusack

I will be starting my build log as soon as I get a job, either this month (hopefully) or next month (at the latest) so I want to do everything right any buy the book. I drive a 2003 Saturn Ion with stock alternator for now(depending if I run my sub amp at 1 ohm or 2 ohms) and I have done the Big 2 (Grounds - Engine Block to Frame / 1run and Battery to Frame / 2runs) in Kicker HyperFlex 1/0 AWG. I will be using a Kenwood KDC-X492 (will be upgrading after the build is complete) for head unit with a Epic Center 160 for voltage and bass in older recordings since I listen to a lot of old school music. The subs have not been decided on and the interior speakers have not been de…

Alright, so sold off everything from old substage, well actually sold half of it, other half got stolen. Anyway will be running 2 1500d's on 3 SA-12's, and backing them on the electrical side will be a kinetik hc2000, hc1400, and optima blue top under the hood. right now alty is a small upgraded 120a. I am saving up for a real nice 200 a 240 peak custom valeo from ohio generator. Now the real question is this. I want to charge batteries to 15volts. right now with the optima, and two kinetiks that is a total of 4500 battery amps and 162 ah from kinetiks and I believe 55 ah on the optima blue top so 217ah total. I do plan on adding another hc2000 and hc1400 on oth…

I'm in the process of trying to decide between these 2 amps : MTX TE1501D Elite $339 USAMPS MD-2D $319 The car will be a daily driver. The subwoofer will be : RE AUDIO 15" SEX -or- RE AUDIO 15" SX I've heard the MD-2D isnt very clean, but I do love USAMPS from my expierence in the past they are GREAT amps, but for my pricerange these are the 2 amps im looking at. I have no expierence with MTX, so I ask you what is a better amp? What are the Pros and Cons of both. Also would a MD-2N be overkill for a 15" RE SXX? Would an MD-1DN do the job?

I'm strating a new project and was wondering if JBL gto 1201is a good amp for 10" L7's. Budget's not so big hehe, so i'm tryin to get something that can feed L7 at a decent price.

I can use my Deck (Kenwood KDC-MP338) manually and using the remote to change settings and stuff, but ever since i installed my amp (Mark Antony GS1000D) i can't use the remote because the remote makes it go into protect mode( it clicks). I can use all the controls manually but can't use any buttons on the remote (doesn't change anything on the deck). Any idea whats wrong?

To fill you in...I'm stationed in Japan and have a 1996 Honda Orthia wagon (equivalent to a Civic or CRX). The battery is very small! My alternator is factory. I've done the Big 3. I have a Panasonic CQDFX85 head unit, (2) RE Audio 6.5 two-way speakers powered by a US Amps USA-50 and a 10" MB Quart DWE-254 sub powered by a US Amps USA-100. My lights don't dim when listening to music. They start to dim when I'm sitting at a light and I click my window button up. I'm going to replace my MB Quart with a RE Audio 10" SE10D2 and use a US Amps USA-150X to power it. I know this will probably cause my lights to dim alot! I've had a US Amps Optimizer sitting in my closet for 6 yrs…

Does anyone know where i can get a HO Alternator for a 99 dodge durango with 5.2 magnum engine? And what about bypassing the ECU Regulator in this Chrysler work of engineering genius?