Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

hello guys i have an ap15001d, ive been running it at 1ohm feeding 1200-1400 watts to a lvl 4. recently the amp kept on going to protect mode, i use a dmm to measure voltage, shows a result of 0.00 fuse seems to be ok, so is grounding. does anyone know how to find out what's going on? thanks

Ok so I'm in the market to buy another amp for my new sub setup. My Car is a 94 Legend Coupe 6.5" Infinity Kappa Fronts 6x9' Infinity Kappa Rears USAMPS XT1600.4 V2 Amp Running the Kappa's Now I'm needing to power (1) 15-inch RE SXX D2 Subwoofer in a 35hz Ported 3cft Custom Fiberglass/Wood Spare Tire Enclosure These are the amps im looking at : USAMPS MD-2D 1500rms@1ohm $319.99 MTX TE1501D 1500rms@1ohm $369.99 Kicker KX1500.1 1500rms@2ohms $359.99 (if I get this amp I would buy the RE SXX D4 of course) So what amp should I get? The car is a daily driver, so efficiency and SQ is important to a certain extent but not a MUST, im willin to sacrifice some efficiency for power.…

Hey guys I'm new to the forum. I'm thinking about getting 1 Fi 18" BTL fully loaded and a sundown 1500. I was just looking for some feedback on how that would sound in a 2006 king ranch expedition

Hi i'm looking for an amp for an Fi BTL 18" fully loaded. I was wondering what the best amp would be for it? I'm not going to be driving around all day with my system turned up all the way, i just want a nice reliable amp that can handle the subs pretty easily that's not like $1200 Thanks

So basically as the topic says, I think my alty is going out. It is causing some whining background noise, and I know all grounds are good, and rca's are clean. I remember having the problem when my old alty when out, and when I got the new one the background noise went away. Any ideas on how to test the alternator? I know you can disconnect battery after vehicle is started, but that it will really only test complete failure...

Ok Im going to have a 220A alternator, two D3100 powermasters batts for the amp, and Im getting 2 AA Mayhem 12s D2 voice coils. Would I be better with the 4500D or 3500D on a 12V system? And is there such thing as wire gauge overkill? Say I run a 3/0 run from my alt to my trunk and its about a 20' stretch. Would it be fine using the 3/0? And when I wire the subs I want to use 4ga wire because the amount of power and I want to be 100% sure the wire is letting as much current through as possible. So would using an excessive AWG of wire cause any 'damage' or reduction in power, or would it not matter?

Not my choice, but this girl needs an amp that does 400 watts @ 2 ohms. List a few ideas for me.

Okay i was using power acoustik's 5500 1/D amps, just got the one i blew back from the factory (brand new). So i'm selling both and hopefully buying a sundown. i had my heart set on the SAZ-2000D but while at work i was thinking... why not get the SAZ-3000D? i will purchase 2 of either model for 4 SSA ICON 15's D1's Should i get the 3000D or the 2000D? i know the 3000D is going away. the price is only about $100 differance on db-r.

Alright, so sold off everything from old substage, well actually sold half of it, other half got stolen. Anyway will be running 2 1500d's on 3 SA-12's, and backing them on the electrical side will be a kinetik hc2000, hc1400, and optima blue top under the hood. right now alty is a small upgraded 120a. I am saving up for a real nice 200 a 240 peak custom valeo from ohio generator. Now the real question is this. I want to charge batteries to 15volts. right now with the optima, and two kinetiks that is a total of 4500 battery amps and 162 ah from kinetiks and I believe 55 ah on the optima blue top so 217ah total. I do plan on adding another hc2000 and hc1400 on oth…

I have plans of adding an additional 3000D and a BTL 18 to my existing 3000D and BTL 18. The problem is that the 3000D is no longer in production, and DB-R is running low. What would my options be if I couldn't get another 3000D when I do the upgrade? I don't think it would work properly if I combined a 3000D on one BTL and a 3500D on the other.... please inform. Thanks!

so do caps actually work or what?

I'm strating a new project and was wondering if JBL gto 1201is a good amp for 10" L7's. Budget's not so big hehe, so i'm tryin to get something that can feed L7 at a decent price.

Okay, just for fun and to satisfy my curiosity...... In your opinion, what is the best head unit? Best flip up head unit? by best i mean: sound quality (of course), functionality, easy to use, and lastly; curb appeal and looks.

I currently have a Pioneer AVIC-F90BT in my expedition but was planning on getting a 05-06 GTO and was wondering if anyone had one and if there is a dash kit for that HU? I can' find one and don't really know to much about the GTO's stock HU. Thanks

Sunday i finally got my amp installed at the local shop.. (soundstream ref 2.640) I drive an 06 xterra so we put it in "gully" of the back above the spare tire. Drove home.. noticed a slight smell figured it was the amp burning in... drove to work monday am.. no issues .. driving home monday the amp started cutting out on me.. got home lifted the "cover" of the area where the amp was noticed it was VERY VERY hot to touch and the amber light on .... figured wow guess there is not enough airflow..and the amp over heated...(not sure if you ever saw the back of an xterra but this is a big space) so figured i would just take the cover off... drove to work this am.. no proble…

I recently had an apline head unit installed in a toyota camry. I have a memphis audio amplifier pushing four 6X9's and an JBL amplifier pushing two subwoofers. Everything was working fine in my jeep and then yesterday when it was installed in my camry this happened. The head unit puts out an audio signal to the amplifiers only when using the radio, the cd player and ipod can't be heard through the speakers connected to external amplifiers ( but the cd and ipod can be heard through the speakers that are being pushed through the head unit's internal amplifier).

ive seen people around here with them. where did you get yours and could you estimate a price? i have found some for $370 and $380. just wondering if there were any cheapers ones out there withought sacrificing quality. Thank you, Matt Cusack

I will be starting my build log as soon as I get a job, either this month (hopefully) or next month (at the latest) so I want to do everything right any buy the book. I drive a 2003 Saturn Ion with stock alternator for now(depending if I run my sub amp at 1 ohm or 2 ohms) and I have done the Big 2 (Grounds - Engine Block to Frame / 1run and Battery to Frame / 2runs) in Kicker HyperFlex 1/0 AWG. I will be using a Kenwood KDC-X492 (will be upgrading after the build is complete) for head unit with a Epic Center 160 for voltage and bass in older recordings since I listen to a lot of old school music. The subs have not been decided on and the interior speakers have not been de…

I currently have a 12" fi ssd (800 rms) with an alpine pdx 1.600 (600-700 rms), and I'm thinking of upgrading to 2 fi ssd 12"s with the new saz-1200d. I'm willing to upgrade from 4 to 1/0 wire, and I already have a yellow top, but will the stock alt in an 03 passat be able to keep up without terrible voltage drop?

I'm in the process of trying to decide between these 2 amps : MTX TE1501D Elite $339 USAMPS MD-2D $319 The car will be a daily driver. The subwoofer will be : RE AUDIO 15" SEX -or- RE AUDIO 15" SX I've heard the MD-2D isnt very clean, but I do love USAMPS from my expierence in the past they are GREAT amps, but for my pricerange these are the 2 amps im looking at. I have no expierence with MTX, so I ask you what is a better amp? What are the Pros and Cons of both. Also would a MD-2N be overkill for a 15" RE SXX? Would an MD-1DN do the job?

Hello i recently purchased 2 of the power acoustics 55001d amps to power 4 SSAicon 15's. turns out the amps are complete garbage and i wish i never got them. anyways i'm sending one back to either get store credit or sell both on craigslist to purchase one of the 2 models of hifonics ( heard they are better then they used to be) and for the price i cant beat it. 1 amps per 2 subs. so my question is the subs are approx 1000w rms and the BXi 2010d should be baseline for the subs. but is it worth the extra $120 per amp worth it for the extra 600w (BXi 2610d)? also if anybody has firsthand experiance with these amps your feedback is greatful.

what woulrd be the pink wire from the radio..... is it to bypass the brake or what i dont have a clue............. never had this problem before legacy ld53um 3.5 touch screen lcd

Does anyone know where i can get a HO Alternator for a 99 dodge durango with 5.2 magnum engine? And what about bypassing the ECU Regulator in this Chrysler work of engineering genius?

I can use my Deck (Kenwood KDC-MP338) manually and using the remote to change settings and stuff, but ever since i installed my amp (Mark Antony GS1000D) i can't use the remote because the remote makes it go into protect mode( it clicks). I can use all the controls manually but can't use any buttons on the remote (doesn't change anything on the deck). Any idea whats wrong?

OK, here is scenario- Got a 20A relay on remote turn on wire with 3 amps and some leds on it. The 15A fuse on the relay popped today... that means it drew WAY too much current... i have a short somewhere... I check- 3 wires were pulled out of the remote turn on distro block that was reading ground.... 1 of these wires is an LED wire. The other 2 wires go to my sundown 100.4 and the other wire goes to both AQ3500Ds remote turn on... The LED wire reads 0.0 ohms and the turn on wires for all 3 amps are reading 0.2 ohms.... Is the remote turn on's grounded? Did the led wire cause a massive surge through all the remote turn ons?