Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

has any 1 Sean a berth sheet from a zx1000.1 what was its top rms and @ how many volt's. And are they 1ohm stable

So when trying to calculate your voltage, do you use ur ideal ohm load or the actual ohm load measured with a dmm? also say your amp does 1500 watts @ 1ohm, will it still be putting out that much or close to after impedance rises (say to 1.4ohm)?

ive looked and looked and looked some more but i cant find the diagram for adding a second battery. someone posted it on here before but i cant find it now. could someone give me the link for it please?

I just got a saz 1500d and am trying to get the gain set just right. With nothing hooked to it and at 27/35 volume, bass -2, sub -2 and with the gain set 1/2, my DMM reads 60.8 volts. This seems way too high but it does sound pretty good on my dd 3512 wired to 4 ohms. Only thing though, 60 volts would be equal to 3600 watts at 1 ohm. Am I doing something wrong or is this the baddest 1500 watt amp in the world?

What exactly do you have to do? Is there anything special? Just disconnect the cables and put the new one in right?

Im getting 2 amp kits from knukonceptz. They are both 0 gauge. One is for my amp wiring and one is for my big 3. One of my questions is when my battery grounds it grouds to the frame and the block. Do i need to replace both? And where should i look for my block ground. Btw i drive a 2004 Isuzu Rodeo 3.5 liter. I run a kicker kx1200.1 and its pushing a kicker L7 15 D2. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Well I just got back from picking up this earthquake amp. In a little rough shape but it is a ph1000w 2 channel. Any input on this?

ummm can you run a RF t1000.1db @ half ohm

so does the size or gauge mean anything with remote wire or is the standard size fine llike, does increasing te auge a lil help at all

sooooo heres how the story goes. i got an amp a while ago, the crunch gp 2500d, and then i bought some subs, like the aq sdc 2.5s, but take a little more power (called TF X's if anyone is interested) both dual 4's wired down to 1 ohm at the amp. anyways, i'm underpowering them by a few hundred watts, and i'm looking for a replacement. in my searching i as offered an earthquake ph-d3 for a bit less than 300 rom a friend of mine, but i think he used to use it for spl comps a few years ago. anyways, the amp works great, and at 1 ohm does 3000 rms, so i figure if i'm easy with the gain i'll get the output i need, or i can match my current output at 4 ohms with 1300 rms. m…

Today is not a good day. i got my remote gain yesterday i installed it today.. also The plan was to finally have my subs back. i got my DC's back from rusty. and was happy to slap once again... i opened the box and one was broken:( i called rusty and he is so nice... but that's another story. i was hooking up one of the dcs to see if it works and i heard a hum it then everything turn off.. not the car but my amps and the music.... so i check the fuse in the front and its blown. i replace it and then my rf250.2 turns on. but not the merlin?? i took out the merlin and seen the fuses are blown.. so i replace them.... and then when i hooked it up again.. i heard the hum again…

last time i hooked it up the blue light indicator is on,but i was wondering why it does not power my re adio mx 12 sub.i have it wired in one ohm i can barely hear the sub pound. I called us amps and the guys said that iteh amp needs a 200 plus amp alternator and two batteries to power up the amp the right way.Is it true? He said that a stock alternator wont even power teh amp at all.IThanks for your help guys.

ok so im going to be using the Fi BTL 12" sub D2 in a 2.5 cu ft box ported to 34 hz. in the trunk of a chevy cavalier. i want to run in DB Drag so the power needs to be there when the car is off. so it will be at around 12-12.5 volts. the battery will be a Kinetic HC 2000 so my decision comes down to this. a brand new AQ3500 for 550$ or a refurbished SAZ-3000 with new heat sink and B-stock (not sure what that is) for 575$. i would like to know the pro and cons of each one. i know one uses a fan for cooling and one doesnt. is there an advantage to this? which one is more efficient at 1 ohm? which one will output more power at 12 volts? or any more things i should now a…

Sunday i finally got my amp installed at the local shop.. (soundstream ref 2.640) I drive an 06 xterra so we put it in "gully" of the back above the spare tire. Drove home.. noticed a slight smell figured it was the amp burning in... drove to work monday am.. no issues .. driving home monday the amp started cutting out on me.. got home lifted the "cover" of the area where the amp was noticed it was VERY VERY hot to touch and the amber light on .... figured wow guess there is not enough airflow..and the amp over heated...(not sure if you ever saw the back of an xterra but this is a big space) so figured i would just take the cover off... drove to work this am.. no proble…

I have a couple questions. First, I will tell you what I have. I have a ported box w/ 2 12's they are DB drive PLW12D4's and each sub has its own amp and the amps are Crunch Pzi 1500.1. I also have a yellow top battery under the hood, a 200 amp alternator, a kinetik 800 battery in the trunk, and a 3.0 farad cap. Ok now I am thinking about adding another 12" DB drive, a sundown 1500 amp, and a custom box which I am thinking of having it made to the specs of the subs and 32Hz. I have a 1997 Ford Thunderbird. Also I have about 36 inches for the face of the box to be so the box fits in the trunk. I am looking for SPL. I use the car as a driver but also take it to show…

This is from another thread.... Was looking for some clarification, or some words of assurance from Jacob. I personally love Sundown Products, and don't want people to be steered away by false information. I'm not saying that "smgreen20" is not legitimate, just asking for some official info. Thanks

Hey everyone, I was at the USACI/Second Skin show this last weekend, and I won a couple SSA subs, the 12'' DCONs. Anywho, I wanted some input from you guys as to what I should use to power it. A guy I know that works for Diamond Audio suggested this: Diamond Audio D3 600.1 Someone else said that amp isn't going to push enough power. So, what do you guys think. Any suggestions?

I am wondering what sized wire is sufficient to run from my amplifier to my subwoofer. It will be about 6 feet long and delivering approximately 1750-2000 watts rms.

The RXD2400 is here http://www.audiosavings.com/products/product-details.aspx?item_guid=9a264828-aec4-49a5-a358-7b5083208110 claims to be factory refurbished. And the BB2400.1 is here http://cgi.ebay.com/PLANET-AUDIO-BB2400-1-3000W-MONO-D-Car-Amplifier-Amp_W0QQitemZ350261934154QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item518d3cf84a and claims to be new. Anyone have any input on this brand in general or these specific amps. I am looking to push a high powerd single 12 in a daily driver/ mild comp setup. TIA.

so lately all of sudden my system will be playing and the bass randomly quits and i dont even have the system up loud or bass up alot. sometimes when it happens i can turn the sound down and it will cut back on. the whole amp cuts off looks like. its in a 2002 s-10 stock alt bat have an us amps md1d and ten inch re sx any help with this? im in the process checking all connections right now

i am going to be powering an Audioque 4X90 and an Audioque 2200D, was wondering if the planned electrical upgrades would be sufficient enough. Kinetik HC1800 up front and another Kinetik HC1800 in the back Knukonceptz KonFused +/- Battery Terminals for both batteries 1/0 ga welder's cable for big 3 upgrade 1/0 ga welder's cable for power/ground run from front to back 1/0 ga welder's cable for 2200D 4 ga welder's cable for 4X90 Knukonceptz KonFUSED High Current In-Line Fuse Holders ran after second battery in rear, 3x 30A fuses for the 4X90 and 3x 100A fuses for the 2200D 8 ga wire for the subs 10 ga wire for the components haven't decided if i will need a h.o. alternator…

Seems a little pricey.... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016L37V6

I was always told to go for the highest number, but i cant tell any difference in amps with high numbers verses those with low numbers?

I just got it off craigslist for a $100, its rated 150x1@4, 300x1@2 and 800x1@1. Are these underrated? I wanted to know because i plan to buy a Fi Q. thanks.

what is a good number, and what does this mean?