Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

So its been awhile since i have made a topic on here. So, i moved houses the past week and when i was cleaning out the garage i found a brand new alt my dad bought for his lumina that didnt fit. Would it be worth making a dual alt bracket and putting two stock alts in my truck? or is that just a waste of time?. I mean i already have the alt, so that was free, and i figured to make a dual alt bracket it wouldn't be to hard considering i have access to my high school metal shop. so the question is would it be worth making that or should i just buy a new alt?

I'm in the process of doing the big 3 in my '99 Grand Am; problem is, I only have 2 ring terminals to work with right now. Question: If I do the run from my alt to the battery with 1/0 and leave the grounds with the OEM cables until the rest of my terminals come in, will that cause any issues? The current flow to my battery will be improved, but the grounds from the battery to chassis, and engine to chassis will be the same as before. Will this be ok, or should I just wait til I get all my terminals in to do the entire upgrade at once? Thanks in advance

Recently purchsed a Crossfire vr1000d, hooked it up today and it turns on then about 10 seconds later makes a click sound then switches to protect and right back to power. And does this non stop, Does this mean the amp i have bought is blown? It even does it with just the power, grnd, and remote wire hooked up. To my understanding if it was blown it'd be a solid into protect

Hi my step brother has two phoenix gold octane 10s and a phoenix gold 2 channel amp, and when he has both subs hooked up the amp goes into protect mode but when only one is wired to it it plays fine but when u hook two up again it goes back into protect mode... occasionally it will play with both wired up but only for about 1 min. then it goes back into protect mode until 1 is unwired. is it the subs or amp (oh yea one of the subs sounds like its blown but still plays just distorted)

What's the benefits of eq's? how do you put it in your system? I'm wanting to learn as much as i can about them....... any advice will be helpful thanks in advance

I will be needing to purchase either a 160 amp alt. or a 8-20 fared cap. eventually both. I have a voltage drop problem. My current alternator is only 80 amps. my amp , I think has 4 20 amp fuses, its a soundstream tr880/2. My headlights dim quite a bit. Would a 8 or 20 fared cap fix the problem well enough to forget an alternator. I can get a 20 fared soundstream cap on ebay for $169 new, $129 for the 8. Or should I go with the 160 amp alt. Which would be more effective. Most people I've seen have only a 1.5, 2, or the biggest I've seen in a car was a 4 fared. What do you know or think? This guy at a audio shop told me that if I were to replace all the major ground wire…

yeah, so today after work, i installed all my 0 gauge wiring from that 5 gauge that was in there before. i also went from the little 60 amp fuse under the hood to a 250 amp fuse. now before the switch, everything sounded good. nice stead, clean bass. but ever since i put in the 0 gauge wire, it gets louder, then softer and loud again and doesnt sound very clean. i messed with the setting on the amp to see if anything had changed and still got the same results. any ideas on what this could be? i also installed new RCA's if that matters.

Alright, I can get this amp for 350$ maybe a little cheaper. Would this be good for an 18" btl? I don't want to push 4400 rms, becuase my box is 7cb ft, so I figure I could just put the gain down a great amount. I know these are power hungry, but aren't tehy like 450 amp draw? I would have 2 C&D tech batteries (88 amp/hr with a rating of 340 watts/cell), 2 ought wiring, 200 amp alt, and soon down the line upgraded under the hood batt. Would that be sufficient? Would these be a good match if I set the gain according to like 2500 watts?

After months of dealing with pioneers terrible customer service, one tech finally tells me that there was supposed to be a four foot usb extension capable of carrying the video signal from my iphone to the unit in the box. Unfortunately, even though ive been dealing with them since january, they wont send me one on them becuase its been over thirty days since i bought it. Anyways... I really need one longer anyways. It needs to be able to carry the signal and be at least 12 ft long. Any ideas?

On my T1500, I'm wondering if I should leave the Infrasonic Filter on or off. It came from the factory with it off, I can't tell much of a difference with it on. Right now I've got the frequency set at around 110. I've heard everyone say to set it around 80, and it does sound a little deeper there, but on some songs, "Late Night Tip" mainly, there are some bass notes that are left out with it at 80. With it set a little higher, I can hear everything. I've got the gain set at 5, and the Punch EQ set around half way. Anyone think I should change anything? Just figured I would see what everyone's opinion is.

Got 320 amp mechman now need advice on wiring and what type of lithium battery setup to get, wanting to run about 4-5k RMS total and hold voltage. I've read that I should run a regular lead battery with a lithium, never done a lithium setup before and need advice, all help appreciated really excited about this build!

Poppin Sound (help) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ok.. my system was working great... i had this old deformed amp (classonic) and i connected it.. and conected my SW pre amp RCA from my headunit to it.. and it didnt work... then i took off the RCA's from it connectted it to my Amp that am generally using with my sub.. and it didnt work.. then i cutted the RCA's and i changed the polarity of the wires +ve with -Ve and vice versa .. and the AMP and subwoofer worked.. but when i changed the setting of the woofer in the HU to REVERSE.. i hear this POPPIN sound n the sub go above its X max for a sec. even when i tyurn the vol…

ive searched for a while with no luck. i have access to a O-scope to set it but i was wondering if ther is anything special i need to know to set it?? any info will help too.

Haven't been here in a while guys Just wanted to know the advantages and disadvantages of running amplifiers at different loads. Nothing specific, in terms of amplifier brand, but just general advantages and disadvantages. Thanks.

what did ups just bring...uh ohh is it a.... new alt? from excessive amperage 200a large case one i hope no one that works for UPS needed an alt, i wonder if ths box has an alt in it? packaging was good look at it :naughty: another pic of side back side will install sometime soon, maybe tonight or tomorrow or sunday when ever

http://www.jvc.ca/en/consumer/product-deta...model=KW-AVX706 Buddy of mine gave me a price of $775CDN. What do you guys think? Going to have to do a little modifying to my dash to fit the 2din in the 1.5din opening, no biggy. Dremel, fibreglass, and elbow grease are my friend

So ive been on google for almost two days now trying to find a dual alternator bracket setup but no luck. I have a 93 Chevy blazer ... 350 engine .. alternator on left.. Wanna keep my a/c .. Has anyone done this or have piks of a setup like this . I saw some diagrams of a 93 k2500 suburban with a oem dual alternator bracket but no part numbers. Just wanna get my electrical ready all before i get my amp .. im open to any fab ideas too.. any help is appreciated . thanks in advance http://www.compnine.com/largeimg/960228TC01-023.gif[/img bottom left is that braket im talking about and bottom right would be the finished product

Ok so I'm running two sundown sa12's vented at 38hz 2.0 cb per sub on a saz 1200d whats probably the lowest I could safely run my ssf?

I have a unit I bought a couple years ago that I'm going to try and do a warranty exchange on. I think I paid a little over $200 for it. I could add another $200 on top of that, so $400 total. What does BB sell that is actually good? High voltage outputs (at least 4v) and ipod connection are extremely important.

ok well i have a build come up on monday and i was wondering where to run the 1/0 i mena i have only ran 4awg and that was in the kick panel so i dont know where to run that big ass wire

Am wanting to get another bettery to help upgrade my electrical. Does anyone know if the special application Kinerik HC 2000 is the same as the regular HC 2000 because i can find those for a lot cheaper price than the regular ones? I think i read somewhere that this years regular model has higher amps rating than last years special applications model. How true is this? Thnaks in advance for the response.

Before I start going through the troubleshooting list since there is noise with the radio turned off I was thinking there might be a quicker answer. Here goes, my brother had his system installed a couple of years ago in his VW "something" I think jetta but it worked fine the whole time but a week ago all of a sudden there was noise with the radio turned on or off using the turn signal, winsheild wipers, rpm, pretty much anything electrical coming through the speakers with radio on or off like Lelu please help

so i am wanting to buy a new amp for my Focal KRX2's ...they are 2 ohm... i will post specs below for the speakers... right now i have them ran off a candence TRX 3004 bridged.. they seem to like power.. i bought the Boss audio zed built amp and was going to try it.. but after getting it and seeing how they want the power wire to hook thru the little spade connectrion it kind of turned me off .. going to be hard to find a way to hook my real 4 gauge power wire to it... so anyway.. now i am going to buy another amp... i want something that sounds good.. i was thinking of the Zed audio Kronos.. wanting to spend around $400.00 .. so would this be a good choice ?…

Im planning on having a 2,000 watt rms amp (hifonics) hooked up in my 95 lexus es300. Im also thinking of a new battery. is optima a better battery than kinetik? or are they two different types of batts? sorry if this is a newbie question...lol.

Well, my friend has recently been having issues with his electrical system. He currently has a red top and yellow top in the back. He reads around 14 volts up front but his battery in the rear (not isolated) reads at 12.5 volts?! The battery in the front and rear both read at 12.5 with car off. Any clue what could be causing this issue?