Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Got info from our Kinetik Rep that they are going to be releasing 2 new lines in their 12v power cell line up the 2 are 1. HC3800 ~ 3800 watt 12v power cell 2. HC1200 ~ 1200 watt 12v power cell I don't have the dimensions yet or the specs... so if anyone does can they kindly post them mainly the dimension or the Ah

So I made this thread here And so far it seems that either I get some kind of amp or not bother with stock speaker replacement. I was thinking of getting smallest amp possible to power the speaker replacements and hide it in dash, taking power and ground from factory harness would be even better, but finding such an amp, that's challenge. How about Alpine KTP-445 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22630_Alpine-KTP-445.html Would I be able to just cut the wires and connect speaker wires to my speaker wires and ground and power to the ones in Toyota harness ? I woas thinking of these speakers for replacement... Fronts http://www.woofersetc.com/p-8696-sc95-boston-acoustic…

Clarion DVD head unit with a 7 inch flip out monitor , 2x Kicker CVX 12 inch Dual 4 ohm (750rms) each wired to 1 ohm in a sealed box , Orion 2400D mono channel amp wired @ 1200 watts rms 1 ohm , Memphis M-class 4 channel 75 rms x 4 , Memphis 6x9 in the rear 85 rms each , Eclipse 5.25 inch 3 way components in the front . Optima red top under the hood , Optima yellow top in the trunk , and a Kinetics cap-killer equivelent to 100 1:farad caps . MY QUESTION IS - how do you know what frequency is best suited for your amp/sub setup - to get best spl/sq - or do you just play it by ear ?????????????

I wanted to find out the best location for a line driver... (here by reffered to as LD) by that I mean is there benifits of having the LD close to the HU unit? or close to the amps? for example in my truck amps sit in the rear

Has anyone tried the 8120 out? I am really considering it because of its seemingly endless list of functions. What other good double dins have you all tried?

I just secured a 100.4 and 125.2 for an awesome deal and had a few questions, basically to solidify my purchase decision. I was hoping to use the 100.4 for an active front stage 2 way comps. Use 125.2 to run a sa8 in a .75 ported box. I feel the amps are up to those tasks without a secondary processor for the comps and the single 8 should be healthy on the 125.2 @ 2 ohms. Feedback, and suggestions on comp sets and headunits would be welcome as I'm still juggling a few ideas around. Thanks Lymen

I was planning on purchasing two RF P3D2 12's (600rms each) in a ported enclosure and need help on picking the right amp for them. I am stuck inbetween the RF T-1000.1 which has a posted 1000rms and the RF T-500.1 that outputs 500rms both at 2 ohms. The problems is that RF apparently under rates their amps and i've seen some "birth sheets" of both these amps going over 100rms-500rms of the posted rms on the RF website. I don't want to over power these subs or under power them too much. Any help for choosing the correct amp for these subs would be appreciated.

okay i have a boss 1600 watt amp hook up to 2 10" CVT kickers, sealed box, in a 2007 Ford F-150 i know that there is a lot of forums disusing this same topic but i don't seam to understand. What should my Input Lever, bass boost, and Frequency

so i am wanting to buy a new amp for my Focal KRX2's ...they are 2 ohm... i will post specs below for the speakers... right now i have them ran off a candence TRX 3004 bridged.. they seem to like power.. i bought the Boss audio zed built amp and was going to try it.. but after getting it and seeing how they want the power wire to hook thru the little spade connectrion it kind of turned me off .. going to be hard to find a way to hook my real 4 gauge power wire to it... so anyway.. now i am going to buy another amp... i want something that sounds good.. i was thinking of the Zed audio Kronos.. wanting to spend around $400.00 .. so would this be a good choice ?…

at what frequency is the subsonic filter for the audiocontrol epicenter i know that the soundstream and others have it at 35hz, but i dont know the audiocontrol subsonic filter i want to buy one, but my box is tuned to 32hz

I'm at home, sick as a dog, feeling too shitty to really do anything or go anywhere, so I'm drawing out plans fot my next system. my question is, with a 370a Alt, XS d3400 up front and a D7500 in the rear, what is the maximum amount of power you could comfortably run, RMS. I ask, because I'd like to keep it as simple as possible, but still have flexibility after should I upgrade from my current equipment. Thank you for humoring me in my moment of boredom lol

I have 2 Hifonics BXI2607's and I noticed earlier today while listening to my system that one of the amps is making a rattling, buzzing noise when the bass hits. It only does it on the higher frequencies which do not hit that hard, the lower frequencies which are louder and hit harder the amp does not make any noise. The noise is coming from the RCA area of the amp. It is not the amp that I have running to the HU, it is the amp that I used a jumper RCA to hook up. I noticed that the amp does not make the noise until I get the volume up to 20/35 on the HU and gets louder as I increase the volume. I did not even notice it until I was in the back close to the amp, I thought …

okay, so where to start.. I have a AQ2200 in my GMC S15 ext cab. The other day it was working perfect, i unhooked the amp (while batt disconected) and took it out because i was removing my seats+subs w/box and going to shampoo the seats and where the amp is located i didnt want the seat brackets to bang/hit against the amp. Well i cleaned everything and put everything back in and everything LOOKED like it was working fine but.. there was no sound comming from my speakers... so, i recheck all my wires.. once, twice, and a third time.. i unhooked and hooked the wires to the amp again.. no sound. I switched the + & - speaker wires in different inputs of the amp.. no soun…

crossfire cx23L us amps us-x3 kenwood kec-600 the kec-600 is alot more intriquite and complex than the others, US AMPS and crossfire are 6 channel output, the kenwood has 12channel out all have line drivers, kenwood = 24 db/octave, crossfire is 12 db/octave and i think the usamps is 12 db/octave just needing some opinions...im gonna try to sell the usamps and crossfire and keep the kenwood - made in 94 old school goodness... the us amps is old too tho ALL INMINT SHAPE crossfire is new tho

1rst is my old USAcoustics 2200f plans for it will be for tweeters 200X2 @ 4ohms 2nd is A newly bought (brand new in box) USAcoustics 2300f planed for mids 300X2 @ 4ohms 3rd is A Sundown Audio unnamed prototype for the sub stage 1400 @ 1ohm If you haven't guessed it I have plans to go active but that could be a long ways away as money is kinda tight. But it should be a fun project. I will be posting for some recommendations for speakers but that is a long ways away as I need to get the electrical built up and some sound deadening first.

What kinda upgrade would I need to run a saz2500d v1. I know a ho alternator but how big of a alternator and would one battery be enough

Hi I am wondering if I should do the big 3 even though I'm not replacing my alternator. I have a 2005 Chevy 2500. I dont know my stock alternator's specs but I'm sure it can't be high. Should I do the big 3? I'm going to get either a kinetik 1800 or 2000 to put under my hood and I plan on running about 1200watts rms. If I do the big 3 should I use 4awg or 1/0awg? I don't know but I think 1/0 should be necessary of my alternator is stock.. But I dont know much either lol.

I'm currently installing a rather large system in my car, and using an alpine ida-x001 as the main unit. Only problem is the unit does not have a CD player, and I really don't wanna deal with a seperate CD changer to hook up to it. i have another alpine deck with tilt, the CDA- 9851. Not sure if i would need some sort of switch-board for all the RCA-s or not. I would like to be able to use either deck and still have full usability of every part of the system. So having both decks would def. be ideal.

ok noob here and i was thinking i should get a yellow top under the hood, do the big 3, and get a kinetic hc2000. now my question is do i neeed the second batt? i heard that a second batt isnt neccesary if you wont play music with your car off. the yellow top under the hood and big 3 are going to be done for sure though. oh and one more question how many ft of 1/0 wire would i need to do the big 3. i have a 00' honda accord coupe. alternator will be done soon need help on that too but dont want to spend more than 400 on one?

Here's the deal - I'm working on putting my system together. I want to make sure I have my electrical taken care of. Amp will be 3000rms I was thinking about the following options: Option 1: Big 3 HO Alternator - 165amp Idle / 260amp higher rpm ---------- Option 2: Big 3 Stock Alt - new, but stock. XS Power D3100 Battery --------- Option 3: Big 3 Stock Alt 2 HC1800 Batts ------------------------------------------------------ Amp would probably be GP3000D running to 2 15" MTX 9500s. Or could I do a HO Alt - which is going to be $500 for the one i'm looking at, and maybe an optima yellow up front? Any help appreciated.

I will be running a little over 1000 watts rms, probably around 1200, will there be the need to get an optima yellow top?

i was gonna see what you guys thought i have a 70 amp alt lying around and im gonna rebuild it...but i was gonna see if it is enough to handle the load of my amp (soundstream 2000d) i can make a bracket and fit it in and just use the second one for the stereo....i dont have 590 bucks lying around for a new mechman....i was just curuios if it could handle it.... thanks for all yalls help

Hey guys i was looking around on ebay and i saw this little gem MKll Version Tripath TA2020 PCB 25w CLass-T amplifier - eBay (item 250628158856 end time Jun-05-10 08:20:12 PDT) What i wondering is that this set doesn't come with any instructions and it doesn't specify exactly what cables it comes with. i want to know what will i need to be able to run this setup. i have a pc power supply that i use to power a pioneer cd player, i was hoping that could work? and if anything that i need , please let me know thank you Brandon. Read more: TA2020 chip amp - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

I am adding a second battery and a bigger amp. I need about 25 feet of 1/0 wire. My question is whats the best place to get it from? Also, I see people not liking KnuKonceptz wire. What is up with that? Is it really not worth the $1.75 a foot they want? Is it better to buy from a welding supply company for about $2 a foot? I know these probably sound dumb, but I've only dealt with 4 gauge in the past, which you can get anywhere. Thanx guys

I currently have a Pioneer 9800BT headunit with the ipod interface. I want to run active and unfortunately this headunit is not capable of meeting my needs. I want a headunit that is very SQ and processing oriented. I was looking at the Pioneer 880prs hoping that it could be a direct drop in. What is the difference between the 800 and the 880prs? Also is the new eclipse CD7200MKII far superior then the 880prs? and how does the alpine 9887 stack up in this lineup. This headunit will run to a sundown 100.4 amp which amps Peerless HDS tweets and the sea excel 18nx mids. Any suggestions and opinions would be appreciated.