Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Im getting a Fi Q 15'. I was told to go Dual 2 and get a Hifonics 1600d amp, Recently I have found out that Hifonics suck and Dual 1's are better. What is the best amp sub combo Dual 1 and something else or Dual 2 and Hifonics 1600d? On a side note: Waht exactly os the difference between Dual1 and Dual 2?

My first question when you change the bass level, middle level and treble level it controls all speakers including the ones on the amp? The levels go from -8 to 8, right now I have the bass at -6 (usually its at -8), the middle at 4 and the treble at 8. How do you tailor made these settings. My second question is the bass level has a Bass F(40-120hz, I keep it at 40hz), Bass Q(1.00-2.00, I keep it at 2.00) and Bass Extend (off/on, I keep it on). Could anybody explain what these settings should be around or what they mean (I know bass F is frequency) or if I should even mess with them? My third question is the middle level has a Middle F (500-2,000hz, I keep it at 500hz ),…

Im looking for a component set. with the addition of this 18" BTL its damn near impossible to hear high end over the bass this thing outputs.. I went to some stereo shops to see some products up close.. saw a set of the Fosgate power 6.5's.. has the driver, tweeter and crossover network.. price in store is crazy, but found the same set on the internet alot cheaper. Im concerned how they hook up as ive never had a pair of components before. Do you just use 1 channel of your amp per door.. Let me explain what i mean more.. go here My link see how the crossover box has 2 inputs and 2 outputs.. i just got done running all new wire to each door to a 4 ch amp.. will i have to c…

So, does anybody have any of these. It looks like I am still getting 2, but I need 2 more for an extrreme car we are building....worst thing is, we need the car to compete at the USACi Fresno show on the 2nd YIKES! We have cash & will travel to get these bad doggers, so help a brother out!

just wondering, if there is any mainstream manufactured gadget for converging multiple 1/0 into a single 1/0 input like that found on the stesom amps. i'm looking for maximum flow/least resistance for an instantaneous dump of power for a single burp. this'll be a single 12 on 2 stetsom 7k e's in a crx. i know others have custom cnc's things, or buss bar type feeders, but just seeing if i can get away with not fabricating something.

amp cuts out when i: hit brake pedal OR turn on electric fans OR turn on compressor OR turn on a/c OR turn volume to loud (with gain turned almost all the way down and/or set properly) i have a red top under hood, a 280 amp alt., big 3, and kinetik 2400 running a hk4000d (i know these are power hungry, but not that much?) to a 18" fi btl(full loaded), all 1/0 gauge, knukonceptz rca's, jensen in-dash(vm9412) thought it was rca's, changed them, still does it so its either headunit rca signal(volts) or the amp any help appreciated, been having problem awhile and just want to get it figured out!

what did ups just bring...uh ohh is it a.... new alt? from excessive amperage 200a large case one i hope no one that works for UPS needed an alt, i wonder if ths box has an alt in it? packaging was good look at it :naughty: another pic of side back side will install sometime soon, maybe tonight or tomorrow or sunday when ever

Can anyone recommend a good working EQ. I used to have an old PPI unit with my old set up, but I don't think it works anymore. I plan to get a SS RL-p 12, either the USAmps 2080 or 2100, CDT CL-62 and I already have a Diamond Audio 1200.1 for the sub. Are their any that I should stay away from?

Ok, so i put my amp in advance and if anyone has experience with the t30001bd the top for some reason doesnt get tight. Any idea what i can do to stop the top from rattling?

Planet Audio AP3000D or Audiopipe 1800.1D? Specs on Planet Audio amp are higher than the Audiopipe. This is to push a 12" JL Audio w7. Any suggestions?

the US Amps 4000x (2) at the bottom of the page on this link: http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/269089/7

What would the best electrical setup for a 2000d? I got a 1800 upfront and a 1400 in the back. Big 3 done with 0awg, 0awg to the amp and a stock 90 amp alternator. Would I be able to use the amp at its full potential? Any recommendations?

I have a 2003 mustang and I'm planning on buying an 12" Fi Q with the BP power option, a RF T1500-1, and a RF T600-4 to power the four corners. My car is 100% stock and i was wondering if my 105 Amp alternator and the big 3 fix would be enough to power all this. If not what should I do. Oh and why is it people prefer batteries to capacitors? Thanks, Matt *Edit* The alternator is 105-110 Amps. Not that it makes much of a difference...

Poppin Sound (help) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ok.. my system was working great... i had this old deformed amp (classonic) and i connected it.. and conected my SW pre amp RCA from my headunit to it.. and it didnt work... then i took off the RCA's from it connectted it to my Amp that am generally using with my sub.. and it didnt work.. then i cutted the RCA's and i changed the polarity of the wires +ve with -Ve and vice versa .. and the AMP and subwoofer worked.. but when i changed the setting of the woofer in the HU to REVERSE.. i hear this POPPIN sound n the sub go above its X max for a sec. even when i tyurn the vol…

Want to buy a good amp to powers 2 SA 12s. About 1500 watts and under 300$. Currently thinking about hifonics 1600 or audiopipe 1500. If know better amps I'm my price range please let me know

Alright well does it matter what voice coil gets wired first? I got a ssd15 and it has 3 out of 4 stickers were black... you know the stickers that say pos or neg... but i need to wire my dual 2 to 1 ohm and wanted to make sure it didnt matter what terminal was first

Whats going on SSA. Need some advice on this wiring/electrical decision I need to make. I was running ~1000wrms on my old setup, I currently have a single run of 4 gauge Knu OFC (~20 feet) to the back where I have a distribution block. Now I upgraded amps and I will be running ~1400wrms (changed amps more because of space constraints, bigger box so less space for amps). Amplifiers have fuse ratings of 120 and 50 amps. Now Knu claims a maximum rating of 150 amps on their 4 gauge (even though they provide a 120 amp fuse for their kit), I was wondering if I should add another run of 4 gauge to the back so I would have separate runs for each amp. Or would a run of Knu 8 …

I am (hopefully) about to order an upgraded alt for my car soon. I have 2 200A solenoids in the car and I need to make sure they are wired correctly before i take a chance in the alternator burning them up. EVERY COMPANY i have talked to has told me to wire them the same way but i do not believe them as it doesn't sound right so i want your guys opinion. Here is a pic of them- The top option- this is the way the companies want me to wire them, main wire from batt coming in, running of relay one to input of relay 2 then out of it to battery bank... Wouldnt that just switch 200A into another relay to only support 200A of current??? Option 2, the bottom one is what i am …

i was just curious on what you guys thought....im wanting to get a voltmeter and ive looked at stinger meters....but i was thinking about the autometer analog gauge...(ive got a spot on a gauge pod)...but i didnt know how acurate they are/other peoples opinion

Whats your guys opinions on these i know they just came out but we can get preliminary opinions. http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_62_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_63_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_61_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_64_full.jpg

I need some help finding out the models of Boss Audio amps that ZED audio built back in 1997 - 2000. Been searching on and off for a little bit, but was just wondering if anyone might know off hand. And yes I already called Boss, waiting for one last guy to call back.

So ive been on google for almost two days now trying to find a dual alternator bracket setup but no luck. I have a 93 Chevy blazer ... 350 engine .. alternator on left.. Wanna keep my a/c .. Has anyone done this or have piks of a setup like this . I saw some diagrams of a 93 k2500 suburban with a oem dual alternator bracket but no part numbers. Just wanna get my electrical ready all before i get my amp .. im open to any fab ideas too.. any help is appreciated . thanks in advance http://www.compnine.com/largeimg/960228TC01-023.gif[/img bottom left is that braket im talking about and bottom right would be the finished product

I'm really on the fence about this one. Don't really understand all the possibilities or what u can do with both style amps. Currently only have 4 2 way speakers and no amp and I'm not really sure if I'll ever be switching over to components. If I don't ever make the switch..is there any difference between a 2 and 4 channel on just 2 ways? Correct me if I'm wrong but if I have a 4 channel with components I can connect the tweeters to 2 channels then the mids and highs to the other 2? I'm eyeing the fosgate t400.2 and .4 there's only like a 15$ diff between them but the .4 is out of stock and I don't really wanna wait.. :/

Current setup is in sig. I ordered my XCON a couple of weeks ago and I'm shopping around for amps to power it. It'll go in an optimal ported enclosure. I've checked db-r.com and the classifieds in caraudio.com, here, ebay, amazon, and woofersetc. Sundown amps, DB Drive amps, Crescendo, Cadence, Audiopipe, Nakamichi, Planet Audio, and others I'm sure I'm forgetting to name. I know 300w or even 600w will make the XCON pound, but with a 200A alt, I can get up to 1200w each. My goals are mostly SPL, but I hope to retain the SQ that I am LOVING with my ID components. I'm sure the XCON can make a seamless transition from blending in with the front stage, to breathtaking c…

http://www.jvc.ca/en/consumer/product-deta...model=KW-AVX706 Buddy of mine gave me a price of $775CDN. What do you guys think? Going to have to do a little modifying to my dash to fit the 2din in the 1.5din opening, no biggy. Dremel, fibreglass, and elbow grease are my friend