Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Ok so I have 2 fi ssd 12"s and a sundown saz-1500d, my problem is if I turn it up past 32 on my head unit, my amp goes into protection and it sounds like one of the subs "pops" any help would be awosme

So its been awhile since i have made a topic on here. So, i moved houses the past week and when i was cleaning out the garage i found a brand new alt my dad bought for his lumina that didnt fit. Would it be worth making a dual alt bracket and putting two stock alts in my truck? or is that just a waste of time?. I mean i already have the alt, so that was free, and i figured to make a dual alt bracket it wouldn't be to hard considering i have access to my high school metal shop. so the question is would it be worth making that or should i just buy a new alt?

any suggestions for an amp for a 18 BTL ????

I currently have a Pioneer 9800BT headunit with the ipod interface. I want to run active and unfortunately this headunit is not capable of meeting my needs. I want a headunit that is very SQ and processing oriented. I was looking at the Pioneer 880prs hoping that it could be a direct drop in. What is the difference between the 800 and the 880prs? Also is the new eclipse CD7200MKII far superior then the 880prs? and how does the alpine 9887 stack up in this lineup. This headunit will run to a sundown 100.4 amp which amps Peerless HDS tweets and the sea excel 18nx mids. Any suggestions and opinions would be appreciated.

ok noob here and i was thinking i should get a yellow top under the hood, do the big 3, and get a kinetic hc2000. now my question is do i neeed the second batt? i heard that a second batt isnt neccesary if you wont play music with your car off. the yellow top under the hood and big 3 are going to be done for sure though. oh and one more question how many ft of 1/0 wire would i need to do the big 3. i have a 00' honda accord coupe. alternator will be done soon need help on that too but dont want to spend more than 400 on one?

So I made this thread here And so far it seems that either I get some kind of amp or not bother with stock speaker replacement. I was thinking of getting smallest amp possible to power the speaker replacements and hide it in dash, taking power and ground from factory harness would be even better, but finding such an amp, that's challenge. How about Alpine KTP-445 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22630_Alpine-KTP-445.html Would I be able to just cut the wires and connect speaker wires to my speaker wires and ground and power to the ones in Toyota harness ? I woas thinking of these speakers for replacement... Fronts http://www.woofersetc.com/p-8696-sc95-boston-acoustic…

So I'm pretty sure I'm getting knukonceptz wiring for my set-up. my set-up: 2 fi q12's fully loaded (subs) Fi: 2 sets of alpine spr-13s components (speakers- 4 total) Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. 1 audioque 2200d (amp for sub) Audioque: Amps: AQ2200D 1 Alpine PDX-4. 100 (amp for speakers) Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. So, for the Audioque amp i'm thinking about getting the Kolossus Flex 0 Gauge Dual Amp Power Kit ( 0 GAUGE DUAL AMP POWER KIT ) And for the Alpine amp I'm thinking about getting the Complete 4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit ( 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit ) Does this Installation Kit include enough speaker wire for 4 speake…

Alright well I added an amp to my car for testing. I unplugged the battery and had to plug it back in and when I tried to start it, it had troubles starting because of the disconnectoin of the battery. So When I went to start it I also tried to put a cd in. The cd was just sitting half way in so while I tried to start it again and just pushed the cd in. The cd player will not read it, and it cannot eject it becuase it doesn't see it as it's in there. It is a 2002 ford explorer, and it is the regular (not 6 disc) cd changer. I read to either grab it with plyers (can't find needle nose small enough) or take it out. I don't know how to take it out either so can someone help!

I am looking for an amp to run a pair of icons, would need to put out between 1500-2200 @ 1 or 2 or 4 ohms depending on which VC configuration. these are my choices so far 1) Sundown SAZ-1500d @ 1ohm 2) US Amps Merlin MD3 (2000w) @ 1 ohm 3) Hifonics Colossus @ 4 ohms bridged (2000w) 2) 2x Kicker ZX1000 now i will be running an HC1400 under the hood, with a Batcap 800 in the trunk(next best thing to a battery cause i am trying to keep it somewhat light), 1/0 throughout, Big 3, 10 additional 4amg grounds on chassis. the car only has a 110 amp alt. stock, so i am looking for the most efficient amp possible. From what i remember the kickers seem to fall on the less efficient …

Good evening people I need some info on the epicenters , like the ones from Audiocontrol . What exactly do they do ? Is it a great plus having one if it's free. thanks

1rst is my old USAcoustics 2200f plans for it will be for tweeters 200X2 @ 4ohms 2nd is A newly bought (brand new in box) USAcoustics 2300f planed for mids 300X2 @ 4ohms 3rd is A Sundown Audio unnamed prototype for the sub stage 1400 @ 1ohm If you haven't guessed it I have plans to go active but that could be a long ways away as money is kinda tight. But it should be a fun project. I will be posting for some recommendations for speakers but that is a long ways away as I need to get the electrical built up and some sound deadening first.

I have a FI BL12 fully loaded and need a new amp, and i was wondering which was better, the rockford t1500 or powerbass ASA 1500.1dx Patrick

Need help deciding between the sundown saz1000d or the rockford t1000-1bd(09 edition). Will be going on a Fi Bl 15 dual 2. The box will be 4 cubes at 32 hz. Any help is appreciated

I'm now looking to upgrade to 1/0 wire in my truck. I've been told to use reducers to get the wire down to 4 gauge in my amp. Why should I use these on pure ofc wire when Idk what the reducer is made of? Why not just trim the wire down the fit snuggly in the 4 gauge inputs?? Since one reduced on knukonceptz is like 4 bucks. Pretty steal for somethin I don't see totally necessary. Is it possible the reducer would hinder power flow as opposed to just trimming?? Oppinions on recuders?

i was just curious on what you guys thought....im wanting to get a voltmeter and ive looked at stinger meters....but i was thinking about the autometer analog gauge...(ive got a spot on a gauge pod)...but i didnt know how acurate they are/other peoples opinion

Okay guys, My wife has been beggin me to get her new truck (2007) silverado Crew to sound similar to my old S-10. In the S-10 I had a downfiring box with Solobaric S10D's 4ohm running mono on a US 1000X Some might say it was a little overkill but I had it turned down and was probaly one of the cleanest systems that I had herd (Yes I know just my preference) I also had MB Quart Q's for mids and Highs running off a PPI PCX280 which I still have the Quarts and the PPI. Okay you might be wondering where I am going with this. I am looking for a little help for powering these subs, and keeping the SQ good. The sq was amazing with my US amp and it pounded at the same tim…

ive had my new radio in for a few days and its great. i was going to sushi with my gf and we entered the plaza and as i hit the dip the stereo stopped playing and said protect. i did some research and i saw that there is probably a short somewhere in the speaker wire. im currently on the factory wiring for my front door speakers til i hook up my 2 ch. i have infinity kappas so they have that big external box for the speaker wire so i assumed the skinny factory wiring came loose or something. i saw that some people just reset the radio and it never went into protect again. i tired it and it worked for another hour then it went into protect again. but when it was working i …

Should I get a T150002 or a kicker zx1500.1 Or I can get 2 RF T5002 vs getting 2 kicker zx550.2 Which would you guys get if you were me? They would run 2 12" Fi SSDs with all the upgrades

Here it is..... I have a Defeat ON/OFF switch. If I have the Defeat switch ON the nulls all my setting on the HU correct. I want to bea able to use my Draconia crossover points and play with my EQ on the HU. If I set my HU to Defeat OFF, and set the crossover HP crossover points lower than the settings on my amp and my LP point higher than what I'm running, can I take advantage of my crossover points on the amps and still be able to use my para EQ? Example: HU crossover is set at 20hz HP and my amp is set at 60hz, do I get the 60hz crossover point?

okay, so where to start.. I have a AQ2200 in my GMC S15 ext cab. The other day it was working perfect, i unhooked the amp (while batt disconected) and took it out because i was removing my seats+subs w/box and going to shampoo the seats and where the amp is located i didnt want the seat brackets to bang/hit against the amp. Well i cleaned everything and put everything back in and everything LOOKED like it was working fine but.. there was no sound comming from my speakers... so, i recheck all my wires.. once, twice, and a third time.. i unhooked and hooked the wires to the amp again.. no sound. I switched the + & - speaker wires in different inputs of the amp.. no soun…

Working on buddys stereo today in his jeep. Already had 3amps hooked up and everything was working perfectly fine. Was installing a fourth amp for his bullet tweeters. After wiring everything up and splitting the remote wire again to run a strand to the tweeter amp and turned the car on and none of the amps powered up...... Anybody ever encounter this problem or has any advice of what the issue is. Fuses are all good double checked remote wiring at amps and hu. Just weird never had such a thing happened to me before with a simple amp instal nor have i ever needed 4amps either. Very much appreciate your input.

I have a JBL 1200.1db amplifier... what are your guys opinions on this amplifier?

I've been running things off 1 alternator and 5 optimas for quite a while now, problem after problem kept delaying me getting my charging system right. About a month ago I finally got everything in, and just figured I'd say I'm very pleased. I ordered 3 alternators and a 4 alt bracket through Iraggi and was met with terrible customer service. He didn't respond to emails or calls for weeks on end. I finally got the alts in twice the time he promised (the only reason I went with him for alts) just to find he didn't send my bracket. After being promised I'd be called for weeks and even having his girlfriend/wife answer to just hang up on me the bracket finally arrived. I do…

So I just picked up a box and 2x10 Rockford Fosgate subs for my Ram. So the subs are 4 ohm 150watt RMS each with a peak of 300watt. Here's the problem. I listen to rock mainly so I don't care about a TON of bass, but I do like a good amount. The subs are bridged or whatever, and that's where I don't know what amp to get without spending a fortune. The two subs don't have two wires each I guess that's what bridged means? So my question is, what channel, RMS, ohm all that stuff, what would be the best amp for me? I'm so lost and the audio guy near my house is just trying to make money off of me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

i just had some weird dreams i was being bitten by blackwidow spiders on my left hand and woke up in a panic. (i'm terrified of spider). so it lead me to go to soundstreams website to look at what kind of amps they offer. i see this D tower thing looks pretty sweet. anybody have any experience with it? i found a place on ebay that sell is it for 328 each. they only problem i really see with it is you cannot lay it down. ebay D-Tower also that cant be right... can it? direct 4 awg power?!