Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I've got a P3002 that was missing the chrome cover when I bought it. I've searched all over, RFs site, watched ebay for about a month and never seen one. Anyone know where I could find one, or maybe point me in the right direction? Obviously its just cosmetic, but I'm in the process of a major rebuild, and am going to have my amps showcased, so it would be nice to have the chrome cover for it. Thanks for the help.

I am going with a some what cheap system. I would like to locate the best bang for the buck amp to power these subs. www.sounddomain.com/sku/ABNAW1251T I do not understan what to look for when looking for an amp. thanks for any help

What would the best electrical setup for a 2000d? I got a 1800 upfront and a 1400 in the back. Big 3 done with 0awg, 0awg to the amp and a stock 90 amp alternator. Would I be able to use the amp at its full potential? Any recommendations?

I currently have a 12" fi ssd (800 rms) with an alpine pdx 1.600 (600-700 rms), and I'm thinking of upgrading to 2 fi ssd 12"s with the new saz-1200d. I'm willing to upgrade from 4 to 1/0 wire, and I already have a yellow top, but will the stock alt in an 03 passat be able to keep up without terrible voltage drop?

i was looking into getting a new system i looked at this amp an re audio vlx 3de and running two subs. i know it would split the wattage between the subs but how do i wire the subs to this one amp? any help i know its a stupid question but it still confuses me.

Ok, I got my new replacement amp back finally. Amp has a sensitivity switch between .1-2 volts and 2-8 volts. My new headunit has 4 volt preouts. When I try to set the gains using the 2-8 volt setting I max the gain and never reach 40 volts (1600 rms). I get around 12 volts on the dmm. When I switch it to the .1-2 volt setting gain goes about 1/3 of the way up and hits 40 volts. Will I damage the amp if I just leave it at the .1-2 volt switch position? And any idea's on why if I have 4 volt preouts I can't reach 40 volts on the 2-8 volt setting? Right now everything is hooked up but I have the amp off on the headunit. Waited 3 weeks to get the new amp back so I am really …

I've had my KD-ADV6160 for about 2 years now, and havn't had any problems with it, it's a dvd player and in my last truck I did heavy offroading and could hardly skip it, and I mean getting all 4 tires 2 feet in the air and not having it skip when I landed... my buddy and I swear by these decks and I recommend them to anyone wanting a GOOD decent priced dvd player. their cd/mp3 players are equally good imo, my buddy had one in his F150 that he totaled for about a year, and never had a problem with it. when he ran over a ford focus with his truck, it skipped a little but went right back on and both cars were totaled, he went up over it lol. these are a good lasting deck im…

I am (hopefully) about to order an upgraded alt for my car soon. I have 2 200A solenoids in the car and I need to make sure they are wired correctly before i take a chance in the alternator burning them up. EVERY COMPANY i have talked to has told me to wire them the same way but i do not believe them as it doesn't sound right so i want your guys opinion. Here is a pic of them- The top option- this is the way the companies want me to wire them, main wire from batt coming in, running of relay one to input of relay 2 then out of it to battery bank... Wouldnt that just switch 200A into another relay to only support 200A of current??? Option 2, the bottom one is what i am …

I have a crunch powerzone 1500.1 and have a strange issues between it and my head unit. I raise the gain, and there is little to no difference throughout the range until it's about 3/4 up. However, if I raise the line level input (I play music from my phone) it increases dramatically, however my highs distort, no matter how I adjust their amp. I haven't even bothered with the bb because I've heard nothing good about it; but I don't feel right maxing my gain to get decent output. It's the same level of sound as my 150w amp without the line level adjustment and I figure 6-700w increase should sound a little louder? only asking this now, because I plan on getting a new amp …

I recently bought a warden 21 and its a d1 so I would have to wire my crescendo bc2k to 2 ohms or .5 ohm. Itd be ridiculous to put 1100 rms to a warden haha but also I don't wanna run my amp at .5. So what I was thinkin is buying 2 amps and strapping them at 2 ohms. Should I buy another bc2k or sell mine and buy 2 used sundown saz1500s? Do you think theres a big difference between the two? My electric consist of big 3, deka 9a31 as second batt with all 0 gauge. I know I don't have the electrical for it full tilt but its a safer option so I would be running at at least 2500 rms I'm also in the process of getting a HO alt, possibly from singer. Please explain why you would …

just waiting on the guy to respond to my question asking is it working and so forth since he didnt post any of that stuff.link

Can anyone recommend a good working EQ. I used to have an old PPI unit with my old set up, but I don't think it works anymore. I plan to get a SS RL-p 12, either the USAmps 2080 or 2100, CDT CL-62 and I already have a Diamond Audio 1200.1 for the sub. Are their any that I should stay away from?

What do I need to get XM Radio working with this deck?

No higher end, high output alternator manufacturers make a alt to fit my car even trying to retrofit isn't possible. I do have a 220 from powerbastards that utilizes a stock casing and after a month my battery light started coming on. But I think I have some good news. After taking it to a specialist It does 220 like PB says but the voltage regulator went bad but everything else is working fine and he'll replace the regulator and says there shouldn't be a problem anymore in fact the build (constuction) of the alt was good even the ratio of windings (voltage) vs diameter (current/amps) was ideal. The one issue with the regulator was amp draw between the rotor and what the …

Current setup is in sig. I ordered my XCON a couple of weeks ago and I'm shopping around for amps to power it. It'll go in an optimal ported enclosure. I've checked db-r.com and the classifieds in caraudio.com, here, ebay, amazon, and woofersetc. Sundown amps, DB Drive amps, Crescendo, Cadence, Audiopipe, Nakamichi, Planet Audio, and others I'm sure I'm forgetting to name. I know 300w or even 600w will make the XCON pound, but with a 200A alt, I can get up to 1200w each. My goals are mostly SPL, but I hope to retain the SQ that I am LOVING with my ID components. I'm sure the XCON can make a seamless transition from blending in with the front stage, to breathtaking c…

I would like to ask this question as a thought experiment to determine if I am properly understanding the following relationships with wiring and power. Our speakers get AC out of our amps and our amps get DC from our power system. The DC power does not have frequency as it is a single flowing direct current and as such the flow of electrons through any wire have ZERO skin effect as skin effect is only applicable with frequency of transmission. What does play a part in power capacity however is the material of which the wiring is made of and how it is made. The total measured DC resistance of a cable of X size will be lower in copper material than it wi…

OK.. I will have three amps. Fuse ratings of amps- 30, 40, 150... will my stock alt (125 amps), the big three, and a 18 farad cap be able to hold up? I got like an autocraft titanium battery too.. The cap is optional, since I know many of you believe caps don't work. I will be running 480 watts rms to 4 pairs of tweets 300 watts rms to speakers 1300 watts rms to the sub. I like to play my system all the way cranked for a long time... Will my electric be able to hold up to this, or am I going to need to buy a new alt?

is there a kit for this, or do i just get some 0 or 2 gauge wire off a spool, Sorry, but i know nothing about this

I just secured a 100.4 and 125.2 for an awesome deal and had a few questions, basically to solidify my purchase decision. I was hoping to use the 100.4 for an active front stage 2 way comps. Use 125.2 to run a sa8 in a .75 ported box. I feel the amps are up to those tasks without a secondary processor for the comps and the single 8 should be healthy on the 125.2 @ 2 ohms. Feedback, and suggestions on comp sets and headunits would be welcome as I'm still juggling a few ideas around. Thanks Lymen

Well i decided to change things up and bought a kicker Zx700.5 so far so good it looks amazing, here are some pics. now for the new sub, i was thinking skar...only time will tell lol...

I'm finally getting around to installing the stuff I've had for over a year now. I'll be putting 2 RE 8's powered by a USX 2080. My deck is an old JVC El-Kameleon KX-something or other (the best Kameleon they had), I'll be using the deck's sub outs because I'm too cheap to buy a crossover for now, and the highs are Infinity Reference 6x8's. That was all because I know I'd get asked. Anyway, I need a wiring kit for the amp. Denim has informed me that someone on here makes and sells them on the cheap? Hook a brotha up

Hey guys what up? I have recently start having problems with my HU that I cant figure out. Ive had it now for about 2 years and I notice last that am getting this static, popping noise when I turn my sterring wheel or turn the sub level up. I also tapped on the HU to see if I would get any noise and I did. It seems as though anytime the HU get a bit of a jolt it starts with the noise, whether its me just tapping on it, turning the steering wheel, or turing up the bass level in the truck. Any suggestions? If am leaving anything out just let me know and ill fill it in. Thanks

I plan on buying a flip out in the next few days and was wondering what you guys think about these 3 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/compare_items.php?imageField.x=118&imageField.y=15&product_ids=39667%2C40239%2C40240%2C35048&hide_highlights=yes&hide_similar_features=&remove_products[]=35048 I'm willing to look at other ones but need to be somewhere around this price range. Thanks

So I made this thread here And so far it seems that either I get some kind of amp or not bother with stock speaker replacement. I was thinking of getting smallest amp possible to power the speaker replacements and hide it in dash, taking power and ground from factory harness would be even better, but finding such an amp, that's challenge. How about Alpine KTP-445 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22630_Alpine-KTP-445.html Would I be able to just cut the wires and connect speaker wires to my speaker wires and ground and power to the ones in Toyota harness ? I woas thinking of these speakers for replacement... Fronts http://www.woofersetc.com/p-8696-sc95-boston-acoustic…

today i got my new amp hifoincs Brutus bxi2006d looks damn good