Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I was planning on purchasing two RF P3D2 12's (600rms each) in a ported enclosure and need help on picking the right amp for them. I am stuck inbetween the RF T-1000.1 which has a posted 1000rms and the RF T-500.1 that outputs 500rms both at 2 ohms. The problems is that RF apparently under rates their amps and i've seen some "birth sheets" of both these amps going over 100rms-500rms of the posted rms on the RF website. I don't want to over power these subs or under power them too much. Any help for choosing the correct amp for these subs would be appreciated.

Wanting to add to my existing alarm, thinking about adding perhaps two exterior sirens, current one is hurting. Also like the idea of having one or two piezo sirens inside the cabin. I have seen these refered to as pain generators. Any of you have input on particular brands which might stand above others in performance? I also wanted to know if adding the additional sirens and alarms will require any additional wiring aspects, I guess I mean can I just wire multiple sirens or will I need additional installation knowledge or products? Thanks for your help and input. Chop

My audiobahn 18001DT amp isnt getting enough power out of my car a 2000 Mazda Millenia S. The stock alternator is putting out 110 amps the amp is drawing 150 amps to put out 1800 watts to 2 12" audiobahn ultra excursion subs. I have upgraded the battery to a optima red top and have installed 2 1 farad caps. When i have the car running the amp recieves 13.5-14 volts when i have the bass turned all the way down. When i turn the bass up half way the voltage drops within 5 minutes to 11.5. I currently have 4 ga wire planning on upgrading to 0 ga to stop some of the voltage loss cause im running the wire 20 feet. should i upgrade the alternator or put more caps or a battery? a…

a friend of mine keeps going on about this company so I looked into it and found a D3500.1 for a reasonable price but the guts didn't look too smashing are they really that good?

Here's the deal - I'm working on putting my system together. I want to make sure I have my electrical taken care of. Amp will be 3000rms I was thinking about the following options: Option 1: Big 3 HO Alternator - 165amp Idle / 260amp higher rpm ---------- Option 2: Big 3 Stock Alt - new, but stock. XS Power D3100 Battery --------- Option 3: Big 3 Stock Alt 2 HC1800 Batts ------------------------------------------------------ Amp would probably be GP3000D running to 2 15" MTX 9500s. Or could I do a HO Alt - which is going to be $500 for the one i'm looking at, and maybe an optima yellow up front? Any help appreciated.

Ok here's my problem. Whenever I turn up my Head unit (New Sony Xplode) past a certain point my amp will shut off. As long as I have my amp turned pretty far down it wont do it. But I feel like I'm being robbed of the potential of my speakers. I thought that maybe it was the amp so I took my other amp out of my other car and it did the same thing but even quicker cuz it's a 900w Lanzar and the other one is a American Pro 600w. I've checked all of the connections way to many times and never found any problems. Someone told me that the ohms has to match up on the amp and on the subs but i've never heard of that. If any one has any ideas please let me know i would app…

Has anyone else had the whining noise from the RCAs with the 880? I was switching around some wiring today, accidently touched a speaker wire to the ground wire on the amp and all of a sudden I hear a whining when I turn the vehicle back on. When I grounded a single RCA on the front pre-out the sound nearly went away, still there just barely audible So a couple quick questions about this.... When grounding the RCA would I have to do it to every pre-out being used? (white and red of all 3 pre-outs if all were being used?) Is there a nicer looking way of doing this? Should the deck just be sent to pioneer to be fixed instead?

so i am wanting to buy a new amp for my Focal KRX2's ...they are 2 ohm... i will post specs below for the speakers... right now i have them ran off a candence TRX 3004 bridged.. they seem to like power.. i bought the Boss audio zed built amp and was going to try it.. but after getting it and seeing how they want the power wire to hook thru the little spade connectrion it kind of turned me off .. going to be hard to find a way to hook my real 4 gauge power wire to it... so anyway.. now i am going to buy another amp... i want something that sounds good.. i was thinking of the Zed audio Kronos.. wanting to spend around $400.00 .. so would this be a good choice ?…

So i've been looking at upgrading head units because I am getting some new components and I have an alpine now and use it all the time with my iPod. I currently have a 9881. So I am thinking of sticking with the Alpine line-up and I was going to go with the 9887 for sure, but now I've seen the 9884 and it seems to have a lot of awesome features. Whats the big differences here? My currents needs I guess are: Imprint technology good equalizer( im not sure if parametric or graphic is better for me. But either would be better then 9881's) good iPod control Thats pretty much it I guess... I have a pair of 6.5 Koda components coming in soon and am hoping to make them sound even…

Found thisamp while browsing ebay and did not know much about power acoustik as a company. Are they any good? Thanks, Matt Cusack

today i got my new amp hifoincs Brutus bxi2006d looks damn good

OK.. I will have three amps. Fuse ratings of amps- 30, 40, 150... will my stock alt (125 amps), the big three, and a 18 farad cap be able to hold up? I got like an autocraft titanium battery too.. The cap is optional, since I know many of you believe caps don't work. I will be running 480 watts rms to 4 pairs of tweets 300 watts rms to speakers 1300 watts rms to the sub. I like to play my system all the way cranked for a long time... Will my electric be able to hold up to this, or am I going to need to buy a new alt?

i have been looking between two hifonics amps a bxi 2608/2610 Hifonics BXi 2610D 2600W RMS, Brutus BXi Series Class D Monoblock Amplifier (BXi2610D) and a hifonics xx colossus 2 HIFONICS XX-COLOSSUS-II MONOBLOCK/2-CHAN AMPLIFIER AMP: eBay Motors (item 290460649039 end time Sep-02-10 13:47:47 PDT) (only link with all stats i will prob buy new)

"A second battery is never a good idea as it's an added strain on the alternator to charge two batteries AND supply power for the car. The ONLY time a second battery is useful is if the audio system is to be used with the car off."

Alright.. i ran into these things they call line drivers.. lol.. seem's pretty simple. rca's in then rca's out and bam.. higher voltage.. is it as straight forward as that? is there anything to watch out for? i see several brands including pheonix gold, rockford, hifonics and audiocontrol.. Do you guys use them? if so what are your thoughts? Just trying to get an idea of these things from all of you before i go out and buy one. cause so far its got my attention... thanks for any info you guys have.

I have 2 Hifonics BXI2607's and I noticed earlier today while listening to my system that one of the amps is making a rattling, buzzing noise when the bass hits. It only does it on the higher frequencies which do not hit that hard, the lower frequencies which are louder and hit harder the amp does not make any noise. The noise is coming from the RCA area of the amp. It is not the amp that I have running to the HU, it is the amp that I used a jumper RCA to hook up. I noticed that the amp does not make the noise until I get the volume up to 20/35 on the HU and gets louder as I increase the volume. I did not even notice it until I was in the back close to the amp, I thought …

I just got off the phone with Ohio Gen, for a 95 Honda Accord they are suggesting $525 + shipping for a 160amp (195peak amp) alternator. Is this a good price? And I got a quote from Dom for $400 +shipping for a 200amp alternator, but have heard many GOOD and many BAD stories about his alts. And I haven't had a call back from EA yet about a quote on an alt. Which would you choose? Thanks, Curt

I'm currently installing a rather large system in my car, and using an alpine ida-x001 as the main unit. Only problem is the unit does not have a CD player, and I really don't wanna deal with a seperate CD changer to hook up to it. i have another alpine deck with tilt, the CDA- 9851. Not sure if i would need some sort of switch-board for all the RCA-s or not. I would like to be able to use either deck and still have full usability of every part of the system. So having both decks would def. be ideal.

I like both - the 9887 has a lot of audio plusses, but I really like the 710's iPod control (fast - no lag) Can you guys weigh in on which you would get? I'm also going to add/ or use the BT feature for handsfree. Please chime in with your experience on either HU. thx!

first off im a 16 year old kid with little experience. ive done a few installs before but not very many. i have a single bl 15 on a sundown sae-1200d. but anyways my friend has a 1998 dodoge dakota and i was attempting to put a brand new kenwood head unit in it. and when i was wiring the after market harness to the head unit harness there were some weird wires. theres two harnesses to wire, one has 3 of 4 speakers and the remote wire on it and the other has power, ignition, illumination, dimmer, right front negative, amplifier ground, and mute. there is no wire from after market harness for left front negative but the one that says amp ground is the same color (white and…

hi, in my last attempt to rule out installation problem i rewired my whole system again plus i added a ground run and i still having this problem: ok, if i have my eq on my headunit set on flat and turn everything off like loud and my highpass i have to have my gains all the way up to even get 20 volts coming out of it( rated for 100 rms @ 4 ohms) and also if i have my eq set to anything but flat and the gains are not all the way down the amp goes into protection mode at 3/4 volume. and i mean all the way down. like i had one just slightly up and it goes into protection mode and also it does not seem to get as loud as it did before. now i don't have an o scope or know any…

Only thing i can think of is shaving them down.. Then i saw another thread were it was lots of + runs and only 1 - run , which seems pointless if the power has to flow in and out.

hey guys its christmax time an my little brother want an better amp for his car so i guess thats will be his gift for me to get but am only willin to spend $200 so i was lookin on ebay to see what i find an this is what i came up with can u please help me chose oneor giev me a better one he have 2 type r 1242d so i need am amp that realy power these sub so more power is better but $200 is my max lol so no sundown Kole kx1-5500d kole trax1-4000 Spl fx1-5500d Spl dk 3400d Spl zlx-3000d Spl grla-3000/1d Power acoustik ps1-5500d Power acoustik stax 4000/1d Power acoustik bamf 4000/1d Audiopipe 1800 Quantum Qca3000d

im currently running a Zapco 360.4 brigded 180x2 for my componenets and a Xtant 301a regulated 300w (old school pre MTX) for my sub... huge fan of US made amps, both amps i know for sure are underrated and are badass amps, but im stuck i have an opportunity to pick up 2 audison amps for about 600 bucks... the LXr4.300 and the LXr1.400... i know audison makes great high end amps, but these are their middle end stuff... i was just wondering if it would be worth it to replace my current setup w/ the audisons has anyone tried the LXr line out? thnx for lookin

Hey guys, been lurking for a while now (on CA.com, DIYMA and ROE more). I thought I registered but guess not. Anyway I bought this AX 5600 BNIB, I believe it is a 2006 model. Upon arrival I noticed that the Xovers were 50-500 for the sub channel, 50-500 for the "Front" 2ch and the "Rear" were able to be bandpassed from 50-500 and 200-5k. I have an Alpine CDA-9835 HU and CDT ES-6 mids and DRT-25 tweeters and a single 12" SS RL-p in a 2 cube box tuned to 32hz. I want to run the comps active off this amp. Now I'm stumped why the "Front" channel Xover is 50-500hz. Please tell me I have a fluke amp that has a typo and that really should be a say, 2000-20000hz HP filter....? Or…