Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Ok, so i put my amp in advance and if anyone has experience with the t30001bd the top for some reason doesnt get tight. Any idea what i can do to stop the top from rattling?

Planet Audio AP3000D or Audiopipe 1800.1D? Specs on Planet Audio amp are higher than the Audiopipe. This is to push a 12" JL Audio w7. Any suggestions?

What would the best electrical setup for a 2000d? I got a 1800 upfront and a 1400 in the back. Big 3 done with 0awg, 0awg to the amp and a stock 90 amp alternator. Would I be able to use the amp at its full potential? Any recommendations?

I have a 2003 mustang and I'm planning on buying an 12" Fi Q with the BP power option, a RF T1500-1, and a RF T600-4 to power the four corners. My car is 100% stock and i was wondering if my 105 Amp alternator and the big 3 fix would be enough to power all this. If not what should I do. Oh and why is it people prefer batteries to capacitors? Thanks, Matt *Edit* The alternator is 105-110 Amps. Not that it makes much of a difference...

[email protected] My wife has an Ipod Nano, and also a Alpine CDA-9856, so she wants to use her new toy in my truck. I have the Pioneer DEHP-7700MP. Does the Pioneer AUX CDRB10 works good? And if so What else do I need? Thanks.

Want to buy a good amp to powers 2 SA 12s. About 1500 watts and under 300$. Currently thinking about hifonics 1600 or audiopipe 1500. If know better amps I'm my price range please let me know

Alright well does it matter what voice coil gets wired first? I got a ssd15 and it has 3 out of 4 stickers were black... you know the stickers that say pos or neg... but i need to wire my dual 2 to 1 ohm and wanted to make sure it didnt matter what terminal was first

Whats going on SSA. Need some advice on this wiring/electrical decision I need to make. I was running ~1000wrms on my old setup, I currently have a single run of 4 gauge Knu OFC (~20 feet) to the back where I have a distribution block. Now I upgraded amps and I will be running ~1400wrms (changed amps more because of space constraints, bigger box so less space for amps). Amplifiers have fuse ratings of 120 and 50 amps. Now Knu claims a maximum rating of 150 amps on their 4 gauge (even though they provide a 120 amp fuse for their kit), I was wondering if I should add another run of 4 gauge to the back so I would have separate runs for each amp. Or would a run of Knu 8 …

i was just curious on what you guys thought....im wanting to get a voltmeter and ive looked at stinger meters....but i was thinking about the autometer analog gauge...(ive got a spot on a gauge pod)...but i didnt know how acurate they are/other peoples opinion

Anyone know anything about them. My buddy wants the CR5000.1.

So ive been on google for almost two days now trying to find a dual alternator bracket setup but no luck. I have a 93 Chevy blazer ... 350 engine .. alternator on left.. Wanna keep my a/c .. Has anyone done this or have piks of a setup like this . I saw some diagrams of a 93 k2500 suburban with a oem dual alternator bracket but no part numbers. Just wanna get my electrical ready all before i get my amp .. im open to any fab ideas too.. any help is appreciated . thanks in advance http://www.compnine.com/largeimg/960228TC01-023.gif[/img bottom left is that braket im talking about and bottom right would be the finished product

I'm really on the fence about this one. Don't really understand all the possibilities or what u can do with both style amps. Currently only have 4 2 way speakers and no amp and I'm not really sure if I'll ever be switching over to components. If I don't ever make the switch..is there any difference between a 2 and 4 channel on just 2 ways? Correct me if I'm wrong but if I have a 4 channel with components I can connect the tweeters to 2 channels then the mids and highs to the other 2? I'm eyeing the fosgate t400.2 and .4 there's only like a 15$ diff between them but the .4 is out of stock and I don't really wanna wait.. :/

Current setup is in sig. I ordered my XCON a couple of weeks ago and I'm shopping around for amps to power it. It'll go in an optimal ported enclosure. I've checked db-r.com and the classifieds in caraudio.com, here, ebay, amazon, and woofersetc. Sundown amps, DB Drive amps, Crescendo, Cadence, Audiopipe, Nakamichi, Planet Audio, and others I'm sure I'm forgetting to name. I know 300w or even 600w will make the XCON pound, but with a 200A alt, I can get up to 1200w each. My goals are mostly SPL, but I hope to retain the SQ that I am LOVING with my ID components. I'm sure the XCON can make a seamless transition from blending in with the front stage, to breathtaking c…

Will I see a big difference if i update from an aq3500d (old one 3500 watts) to a saz-4500? I am looking to get my 2 dd3512e louder. Would this get me there?

This is the beginning to the little amp rack. I think I may need a larger board. Time to rip apart another box. LOL. Might as well put them to use.

Hey I have a crappy voltmeter from an autoparts store locally that my friend hooked up a year ago to who knows where in the front of the car, I think to a fuse for power just so i have an idea of my voltage.. But I am about to purchase a new stinger voltmeter as I am about to add a new Kinetik hc1400 up front and decided I want a more accurate reading of voltage for my Sundown amp. I was just wondering how you guys wire these up to get a good readout of the voltage? (I guess at the amp?.. ) I'm assuming you would want the voltage at the amp to see how much power the amp is actually getting?.. correct me if im wrong about what voltage i want to read.. so basically I was j…

Im looking at these 2 amps to power my 12" polk sub(150WRMS) and my front SEPS. Would you guys know which one is better in terms of quality and performance?... just base your answer with your experience and the brand name, just in case you have'nt listen or audition this models.. its not available locally so im asking the experts on AMPS... they are both on the same price range in Ebay, shipped. Im leaning to power acoustik bcoz it has more power than PG though im not sure if it is over rated... But most of the people in other forums recommend PG.... so that's make me confused... so pls help me to decide guys... many thanks... POWER ACOUSTIK OV4 800 * PWM Mosfet Powe…

Alright, I can get this amp for 350$ maybe a little cheaper. Would this be good for an 18" btl? I don't want to push 4400 rms, becuase my box is 7cb ft, so I figure I could just put the gain down a great amount. I know these are power hungry, but aren't tehy like 450 amp draw? I would have 2 C&D tech batteries (88 amp/hr with a rating of 340 watts/cell), 2 ought wiring, 200 amp alt, and soon down the line upgraded under the hood batt. Would that be sufficient? Would these be a good match if I set the gain according to like 2500 watts?

I'm currently installing a rather large system in my car, and using an alpine ida-x001 as the main unit. Only problem is the unit does not have a CD player, and I really don't wanna deal with a seperate CD changer to hook up to it. i have another alpine deck with tilt, the CDA- 9851. Not sure if i would need some sort of switch-board for all the RCA-s or not. I would like to be able to use either deck and still have full usability of every part of the system. So having both decks would def. be ideal.

anyone know of where i can get a Head Unit repaired at? I have an older panisonic that i bought solely to play dvd-audio and it wont read either of the 2 dvd-a discs i have... it plays cds and dts fine but not dvd-a

So this is what I am thinking. For my 2 zcon's I need more. They want more. Currently have a 2500d but was thinking of going with a 4500d. Or maybe even 2 2500d's strapped. Only problem is, zcon's are 1 ohm. Every where I look, for strapping u want 2 ohm. Which way should I go?

I just installed a DC Power Engineering's 250 Amp Altenator XP on my 2010 Camaro 6.2l and the belt squeals on cold startups. My car has 6600 miles on it. I have a new belt on order and will try as soon as it comes in. The alt came with a smaller pulley on it Im wondering if I may need a shorter belt, maybe the tensioner is not tight enough with smaller pulley the Alt came with. Any suggestions? What about changing out the pulley with the stock one? Though Im sure the DC Power Alt came with a smaller pully for a reason?? Scott

I currently own a 1995 Ford Mustang that I am thinking of trading it in (this car is great and cursed at the same time). This car has a 130Amp stock alternator and I currently have a SAE-1000D powering a Stereo Integrity Mag with 1000W RMS @ 1ohm. I also have a Crossfire CFA302 amp rated at 75W RMS x 2 @ 4ohms. I've never had a problem with these amps, so I never thought about upgrading my alternator to an aftermarket model that produces 200+ amps. Anyway, I'm looking at a few different possibilities for my next ride. I want a Nissan 350Z or a new Mustang GT, but that would require saving up for the next few years. I also thought about getting a truck, either a Toyot…

My first official post of audio haha . Just had a quick little question, I have a 18" Fi BL and i want a good amp for it. So i am deciding to get a 1200 AudioQue amp or a Rockford Fosgate 1500-1bd. Any idea which amp I should get. Thanks guys !

Tracy, I saw some info in here the other day about the newer amp lines. I was hoping for a refresher and also wondering along the lines of AB power... 750X2 @ 1 or 4 Ohms or so, maybe 1500 @ 2Ohms. Basically I mant alot of controll, like one of the new lines seemed to offer. I am going to be powering 2 Brahmas (I needed a little more umph ). I am hoping to keep them in a foot each so power needs to be about 750-1100 or so per driver. I like the Cadence Z1500, or a pair of Z9000s. I am even kicking DEI around (2400D) but it is a D amp. I really want an AB. Also I was wondering if you might hit me some rough prices up. Thanks Bud, Seth