Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have been talking on here for some time now trying to figure out how to beef up my electrical enough to withstand a SAZ-3500D (or maybe I should just go with the AQ-2200D? for a single 18" Fi BTL) and a SAX-50.4. Now I have been looking more and more on other forums because I have pretty much read most of the posts here that are relevant. But It seems I am having conflicting ideas. For one, people on other forums say capacitors are the best thing ever. Get one 1.5-2x the rms load of your sub(s) and you will save yourself money because you wont have to buy a new alt or stock up a battery farm. Now I read on here that people thin capacitors are junk, why? I just want the …

I'm going to replace my redtop. I have two batteries in mind that I can get at a really good price, a Kinetik hc1800 and a Deka Intimidator. Which do you think I should get?

Driving a 03' bmw 325i sedan, have a JVC KD-AVx77 and it doesn't fit. The dash kit I purchased doesn't even fit it. I also think that the panel that goes over the dash kit doesnt even fit the unit either. Anyone know what I can do? Am I going to have to customize it?

Ok so I have saved my jack and Im ready to buy an alt but wondering which one. I will be buying from mechman and want to know what u guys think. My system will include the SAZ-4500d, SAX-100.4, and maybe the SAX-50.4. Matt has a 200 amp (125 idle) alt BNIB by powermaster for 225 plus ship or a 250 amp rhino series (150 idle) BNIB for 299. I cant remember if the ship is included or not but the latter is part of his July sale. My budget tells me to get the 200 but I know I SHOULD get the 250 rhino. I need to buy this by the end of this week because I wont likely find these prices anytime soon anywhere else. Whatcha think fellas?

Will it make a big enough difference in upgrading quality of my midrange amp but not power to be worth it? Will it make a difference in the sound of my? Or is 400 watts 400 watts and switching amps to a higher quality amp of the same power not make a noticable difference?

This thread is not meant for bashing but what is this a good 0 gauge wire? A friend of mine had a bad experience with the Knukonceptz KLMX Kable, but is the Kolossus Fleks Kable better than Stinger 0 Gauge?

i read a topic with a guy saying he's running an amp at .5ohms for spl and @ 1 for daily. He was running a sundown 3000 amp.Im trying to decide between 2 dual 2ohms or 2 dual 1ohm speakers. I have a hifonics colossus that's 1600 X 2 rms at 1ohm or 3200 rms bridged @ 2ohms. Will my amp run @ .5 for a short spl burst or go into protection mode. or should i just gt the dual 2s? would it be better to run it at 1ohm each channel daily or bridged @ 2ohms? Thank you

So can u guys tell me which head units u think are better sound quality wise and features. I'm goin to get either a pioneer premier or kenwood excelon and idk whch one to get. My friends tell me kenwood isn't any good but I hear from experienced car audio technicians that kenwood makes better head units than premier. I was looking to get the Kenwood Excelon KDC-X693 or the Pioneer Premier DEH-P510UB. They are both around the same price and all advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Nick

Not finding much online about this but wanted to know if u can run a Stetson 10K under 1 ohm (0.67) for daily?

What would the best electrical setup for a 2000d? I got a 1800 upfront and a 1400 in the back. Big 3 done with 0awg, 0awg to the amp and a stock 90 amp alternator. Would I be able to use the amp at its full potential? Any recommendations?

I just got my brand new JVC KD-AVX77 in today. Got all the supplies needed and hooked it all up properly. *soldering and heat shrink. The unit itself works fine, but no sound at all! No sound is being projecting through the speakers. I put in my stock headunit and it works fine. Anyone know what the issue is? I matched up all the connections. I called JVC and someone told me to connect all the reds and yellows and connect them together............can someone help? I need this done today! Thanks

used dc power engineering alternatotrs will they put out to spec?

So I need help, I have a 2008 ford escape and currently I have my system(2 12"s) hooked up to the stock radio through a line output convertor. I believe that my system would sound twice as good if I was to install an aftermarket head unit. MY Budget is around $100 - $150 and In case you don't know what the escape's retarded radio looks like here is a link... http://fc00.deviantart.com/fs30/f/2008/104/b/9/Tribute_08_pic6_by_Fourthmeal.jpg I am not a car audio professional by any means and I most likely will have to get my radio installed by somewhere most likely abc warehouse. I know I'm going to need a wiring harness and a dash kit. So any advice as to what head unit …

ok want to install my amp but i'm not sure where to put the phase at. i have a SAZ-2000D should i just leave it at 0? or where's a good place to put it? i should know what it is. BUT I DON'T :/ maybe i'm missing something here lol thanks!

Have a few questions bout charging batts on an actual battery charger. I have a D3100 and a D5100 in the car. Let's say i purchase a Schumacher AGM charger. Since the rear batts have always been connected in parallel their whole time, is it ok if i charge them paralleled together? I don't really see how 1 batt could charge better than the other but i dont know for sure. Second, since i have a solenoid which isolates my rear batts from the rest of the car, is it ok if i charge the rear batts with everything still connected including all the ground cables ran to my chassis? I know not to charge while car running, that's obvious, just check the two things above.

I know absolutely nothing about amps i want an amp just for this sub: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TSW251R-Watt-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B000E6Q1LC does the amp have to be a minimum of 600w? does it have to be pioneer brand bc the sub is pioneer? or does the brand make no difference? thanks!

just got my amp. in the box it came with a paper that says "Total Maximum Power Output: 930 watts." can anyone explain what exactly this means? like is it at 2 ohms at a certain voltage or is it the 2 ohm and 4 ohm ratings total added? or what? thanks!

I just received my SSA Icon D2 sub today after a longgg wait, between the box, and then the sub. So I am anxious to get everything installed, but I don't want to make any mistakes. I've been looking at this wiring diagram to wire it in parallel to 1ohm. And then from the manual I am planning on wiring it like the top picture. I'm a little confused by the diagram in the manual, I can just connect to 1 positive and 1 negative, right? I will set the gains using the stickied tutorial. What should the subsonic filter and LPF be set at? Are these lower and upper cutoffs for what frequencies my subwoofer will play? Bass boost and phase should be set at zero, correct? Are …

I have my install next wednesday, and the problem is...I only have 1 d3100...and the place that I ordered the 2nd one called me and said that they shipped my 2nd one out...but then they called me back and said that they were sold out of the d3100, so they offered to substitute a d2700, my question is....can I install both of these batteries together for my xtra batteries in the back of my car...or is it wrong to connect 2 different model batteries together???????? damn im bummed right now Thanks everyone for the help Freddy

i have the Rockford Fosgate Power T20001bd amp and a red top optimus battery under the hood with a 800 kintik in the trunk all wired with 0ga wire and gold terminals with a 200 amp alt and was thinking of getting a Rockford Fosgate RFC2DHybrid 2.0 Farad Digital Stiffening Capacitor if this isnt a nough juice and a alt if i need one? this is for my btl 18 fully loaded wich rms is 2000 watts any help and i apreate it thanks guys!!

are the new mean machines as good as the ones from like 05-08

what is a good head unit (preferably JVC or Alpine) that will not skip because of the bass? i have a alpine cda7897 now and i cant turn my music up without the cd skipping repeatedly. really wouldnt want to spend more than 400 for a h/u. its going to a lincoln towncar and i am running a zx2500.1, zx650.4 and (2) 15" btl's

Can i wire my 4 subs to a Sundown 100D and give around 250RMS to each sub? Is this safe? Would it look like OPTION 1 from this: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=4&I=22 And for this i wuld get 4 Dual 2-ohm.

First of all i'm thinking of running 2 audio que 18s (HDC318) on 2000w rms a piece, is this possible? If it is possible, would i only need 1 ho alt and how many amps? 300? lastly, should i switch my stock battery with something different AND throw one in the trunk or what would you suggest? Thanks.

Im buying 4 10" Pioneer Premiers Dual 2-ohms. They are rated at 350 RMS and 1000 Max each. Here is the link ==> http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8631_Pioneer+Premier+TS-W1007D2.html?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=froogle I want an amp that will give each sub around 200-250 watts a piece. No more than 250. And i would like the keep the price below $300 if possible but if you know something that would be worth it and is close to 300 go ahead and post. Also it has to be a Class D amp. Im going to order this all this week so i need to make my decision on my amp. Thanks guys.