Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Soo just recently my rear speakers started making this werid popping noise that gets progressivley louder when you turn up the music, i hadnt done anything new to the amp before this started and it ONLY happens on the rear speakers. If it makes a difference my rear/front speakers are ran off 2 seperate RCA cables. Anyone have any idea? ive checked connections on the speaker and amp and everything looks fine. Im thinking its either bad RCA cables or the amp is going to shit...

Is this normal? I guess its hard to say, but I own a 2004 Impala, stock alternator. My battery finally died after 9 years of use and when I threw the new one in its charging at 15.5volts. Im just hoping a regulator isnt shot or anything stupid. Obviously constant overcharge can cause batteries to prematurely fail. Just checking to make sure everything is normal here.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5767552031&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5767516713&rd=1 Ok discuss.

well i was driving all of a sudden the bass stopped i looked back to see all 4 subs "sucked" in so i shut down the power. (switched) remote The amp stayed on with subs still sucked in so i ripped out the speaker leads and the subs released, i then disconnected all power after i let the amp cool down reconnected power and tested with a dmm. results show 0 ac voltage and so i tried dc and got -93 volts wtf! any thoughts as to whats going on as the protection hasn't even tripped yet the fan doesn't fully engage now either. and there is definitely power coming from speaker terminals as it arced when testing(high power).

no constant 12v. Deck won't hold memory. I'm down to 2 more things to trouble shoot one check all wiring in car. I also have the engine light on, fog lights not working and first setting on windshield wipers not working. I have checked all fuses in dash. checked unit wiring. I'm going to check to make sure that the factory wires are matching with the aftermarkets correctly. Other than those 2 i'm completely clueless. The car is a 95 altima unit is alpine 9835

What do I use for some wire terminals...? Anyone have a tut? I am making my own box and i plan on using screws like most of the other people, for a tight seal. It's urgent!

I havent really heard much about wiring full range speakers. I am hoping to get a new amp for my sub and i was wondering if i could wire both my front and back door speakers with my 2 channel powerbass asa 400.2 it should put out about 200 rms times 2 at 2 ohms and i didnt know if you could wire door speakers together or not.... I just havent heard anything about it. My reasoning is because they have to direct the freq to two different places so idk if both speakers would get all the signal... Lol its a noob question i know...

would i be wasting my money on this item ? the desperation says it only handles200 amps my amp is clocking about 450amps so would it stop at 200amps or would it read higher under power? http://www.ebay.com/itm/350566662011?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Soooo i just got my kicker zx2500.1 and will be running two Fi 15in BL's on it got all the wiring and everything except for the fuses... Any suggestions?

What is a signal processor? How much? Why would you need one?

can anyone tell me how to wire up 3 batteries ?? i plan on running 3 batteries for my 2 18s, just wondering how to wire them up to my dc power alt.... i plan to use one batt for my cars electrical and then one battery for each amp ( 2 amps altogether) if someone can tell me how to wire these up i would be thankful.. thanks

I am running an audioque 2200 and a second battery it's a vmax charge tank t1000 I know I'll need a fuse under hood for my positive power that will be a 200amp and I have another fuse that's a 300 amp kicker I'll put that one right before my power goes into my second battery and I am havin the big three what size do u think of fuse I should have on my positive from my battery to my alternator or do I need one ?

I'm considering going with a stealth install in my new car so I'm researching quality amps that have a small footprint. My previous amps have been eD and I'm currently using a DLS A5. I will be limited to about 11X11 for the new amps and need something to push 1-3 subs (potentially as low as 1ohm total) and a set of components up front. I've seen the Alpine PDX amps and they fit the bill as far as size and power but I'm not sure how I feel about the Alpine gear. I've always considered them kind of mass market average quality stuff. And I also don't know about running Class D for my front stage. The Zed Audio Mililith and Gladius are just a little too big otherwise t…

Hi I am wondering if I should do the big 3 even though I'm not replacing my alternator. I have a 2005 Chevy 2500. I dont know my stock alternator's specs but I'm sure it can't be high. Should I do the big 3? I'm going to get either a kinetik 1800 or 2000 to put under my hood and I plan on running about 1200watts rms. If I do the big 3 should I use 4awg or 1/0awg? I don't know but I think 1/0 should be necessary of my alternator is stock.. But I dont know much either lol.

Honest opinon would you rather have a old punch amp or a new punch amp I have 3 of the punch 200x2 and a 60x2 and a 40x2 amp that I am planning to une in what i call a old school build in my eclipse take suggestion on what subs to use plan on usin a 200x2 on each sub and the 60 and 40 on highs any suggestions???

i was reading the tutorial and i see where i did a few things wrong, mainly setting the gain where i usually listen to my music n stuff. what i wanna ask is as far as using the test tone to set it i NEVER play cd's in my radio i always use my mp3 player via aux port. it plays WAY louder then my cd's do so should i set it that way or only do it by cd? next as far as setting up the bass boost before setting the gain i see it says use the center of 45hz( thats the center on my amp) do i use a 45 hz test tone too or still use the 50? also WTF do i set "Q" at?

Ok. So now im looking for a new battery. My current battery ratings are CA: 650 Amps CCA: 525 Amps. The battery (EverStart) is bad tho. I dont know If I want a battery that replaces the existing one, or if I shold just get one and put it in my trunk. The battery I have now still starts my car, but in the cold its very close to not starting it. I want a battery that will start my car fine in the cold, and that will eliminate my voltage drops (Down to 13v from 14.5v voltage drops now when I bump my system) to go with my HO alt (160 Amp). After thinking about it after writing the majority of this thread, I should get an additional battery, and keep the stock right where i…

i bought http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KLE12BL knu 12 gauge and my question is do I split the wire into two or do I wrap them together. Or is one tube for positive and the other negative? so like instead of two wires running to my amp I will have one then at the amp I will split it into two by separating the 2 chambers?

i have heard from a few people to set my loudness on my headunit to off. i was just wondering why. any help would b great.

So I am in the market for some batteries. I like the Kinetik, however they are a bit rich for my blood at the moment. $699CDN for a single battery is a little steep. I have access to Stinger and Shuriken batteries at a really good price. The Shuriken batteries look to have similar specs with the Kinetik. I'm just looking for some opinions from others on these batteries. I am looking at the following batteries: 1) Kinetik HC2000 (x4) (one under the hood) 2) Kinetik HC2400 (x3) + HC800 under the hood 3) Shuriken SK-BT100 (x4) (one under the hood) 4) Shuriken SK-BT120 (x3) + SKBT35 under the hood While at Performance World I talked with someone at the Kicker truck about what…

hey guys, just a quick question? whats a good battery to get for under the hood? i will be doing the big 3 to my new car i have a 18" btl fully loaded comming and a saz-2000d and a sax-100.4 on the way i have 2 kenetik 800's ill be droping in the back so whats a good battery i should get for the hood i got about $250 Thanks guys

So tonite I set my gain and ssf according to the thread on here. Only questions are, when getting rms for 2 zcon's, do I add both together, or just what amp says. Amp is a saz2500d. 1 ohm says 2500 rms. square root is 50. Set amp output to 50 vac. Then took 50*.707=35.35. Turned ssf up till voltage dropped to 35vac. Questions are, is that correct? Or do I then readjust gain back up to 50?

Realistically, how big of amps can I run (D class) in total wattage on a 136 amp alternator? I checked the specs for a dodge diesel and this is what it said of the output. After looking at the number, I'm thinking I'll only be able to run one sub and to incorporate two of the channels for the sub.

I haven't built a system since 2009. I had 2 Fi BTL 15's in a pound that sound box, powered by a SAZ 3000D. Well, my kid is becoming a bass head and is wanting to build a system in his car. I suggested him helping me build one in my car first so that he can learn more about it and see what he really wants before spending his money. I'm planning on putting an SSA ICON 10 with an SAE 1000D or maybe a 1500D , all in the trunk of my 2017 Mustang GT. Im going more for sound quality than SPL this time around. My car came with the sync and navigation package. I want to keep my dashboard stock but obviously don't have any RCA outs on the stock navigation/radio unit. It was sugge…

Okay, so I want to upgrade my underhood battery, obviously. I was thinking about snagging up a smaller, cheaperish XS power batt for now, but I've heard that you need to run the exact battery you have up front, in the back. It had to do something with the batteries charging wrong or something, I don't know, ha. My real question is, could I pick up a smaller high quality batter for up front, and pick up a larger one for the back and be safe?