Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

No higher end, high output alternator manufacturers make a alt to fit my car even trying to retrofit isn't possible. I do have a 220 from powerbastards that utilizes a stock casing and after a month my battery light started coming on. But I think I have some good news. After taking it to a specialist It does 220 like PB says but the voltage regulator went bad but everything else is working fine and he'll replace the regulator and says there shouldn't be a problem anymore in fact the build (constuction) of the alt was good even the ratio of windings (voltage) vs diameter (current/amps) was ideal. The one issue with the regulator was amp draw between the rotor and what the …

Do you guys think 2 of the AQ1200D can push 2 18 Fi Bl dual2 ohm?

sort of a noob question, but just wanna make sure. after having my stuff for sale for 2 months, and no one buying it, i decided to make it work in my truck. im gonna be running the set-up in my sig, and was wondering if it would be safe to mount my amp to my box. there's not really any other good place to put it, so i figured why not. its a sturdy box made out of 3/4 mdf. thanks!

I am looking for a small amp (literally) for my wifes van power a Koda 8" at 4 ohms. Looking to have roughly 200 RMS. Here are my choices so far Arc Audio 2050 CXL Planet Audio BB50.2 Anyones tried any of these series? I am leaning toward the Arc just because I have always wanted to try one, and I think they are one of the most beautiful amps out there. Anyone have any other suggestions. Here are my specs 1. Must have a crossover (most do, just thought I would add that fact though) 2. Roughly 200 RMS into 4 ohms 3. Size restrictions Length - 9.5" Width - 8" Height - 3" If it wasn't for the damn size restrictions a lot of amps would work, but as always, I have to …

I want to make sure my amp is set correct so I am going to try and pick up a digital multimeter soon. I have never used before though. Do I need an expensive one or any work fine. (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2). Using the equation in the topic my voltage should be about 22.3v. What would I set the dmm in the picture too?

Ive always had my wires installed for me but Im doing it myself now. Im puting in a Sundown 1500 in a Explorer. What all do I need? 1/0 ga wire, dist blocks, circuit breakers, etc??? I want to use Knu wires so if theres a link to a complete amp kit that would be fine.

Well, here is the deal: Ikesound is out of DEI 1100D5's, so when I returned mine because it wouldn't power up, they said that I can have store credit (haha), so I emailed them back and told them I want a refund. I am probably going to go with a pair of the US Amps IS series amps (IS 2200 and IS 4065). I will be splitting up the crossover on my 3 way rainbows to run the midrange and tweeter off of 2 channels and the midbass off of the other 2 channels of my amp. I have 2 long runs of rca's and 4 short pairs for what I previously planned on doing, so that is a factor. I also heard that it is bad for sq to have multiple processing devices, so that is why I am kind of wear…

i know the 200.1 is the same as alot of 3000s out there. but Bob is claiming its 3700w lol and the new 150.1 does 3300w? last i remember the 150.1 was no louder than a mojo 2000 or crossfire..

Im going to be ordering my new head unit later on today, but I would like to know if anyone has/used this type before and how well it works, I'm getting it because it has 3 pre-amp settings and had a USB and AUX port on it, my old head unit has neither of these and I'm only using CD's which get scratched way too easily. Thanks guys. heres a link to view it http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_35579_Clarion-CZ501.html

I currently have a passive front component set of Focal's on a Linear Power 1502 with TIPS mods. I'm looking at going active and louder up front. I currently have a BTL N2 15 and another on the way. I can start to drown out the fronts now so adding another sub will definitely drown them out. I have not set my mind up on what tweeters and mids to use. I have door pods already for 6.5 mids and tweeters. I have a small SUV...Mercury Mariner so adding more front speakers is not an option. This is a daily driver and I will rewire the fronts with larger wire when I redo and go active. I'm looking into the Zed amp 100x4 and wondering if anyone has any experience with it. …

Does anyone have a birthsheet for any US Acoustic Amp? If you do, could u post a picture. Thank you. Qckrun

So I made this thread here And so far it seems that either I get some kind of amp or not bother with stock speaker replacement. I was thinking of getting smallest amp possible to power the speaker replacements and hide it in dash, taking power and ground from factory harness would be even better, but finding such an amp, that's challenge. How about Alpine KTP-445 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22630_Alpine-KTP-445.html Would I be able to just cut the wires and connect speaker wires to my speaker wires and ground and power to the ones in Toyota harness ? I woas thinking of these speakers for replacement... Fronts http://www.woofersetc.com/p-8696-sc95-boston-acoustic…

Here's my old school Alpine MRV-F352. I used this for about 2.5 years or so and one day the 5th channel when out. The other four-channels still work fine. I've sent a few pics of the damage. Could some one tell me what I should do with this amp. I don't really need it anymore, but I don't think many people would want a 5 channel amp that only has 4 channels that work. The damaged part is in the upper right hand corner. You can see the burn marks just under the model number. Closer pic of the damage Very close image of the damage I don't know very much about amp internals, Would this be a quick and inexpensive fix, or is it just not worth the effort. Thanks!

I'm looking into getting a vehicle with a little more space for some more beat. Right now I have a dual 2 ohm Fi BTL N2 18 being run by an AQ2200D at 1 ohm. If I was to upgrade the system, I would probably get another AQ2200D and another dual 2 BTL. I realize that I could run 1 amp to each sub, but I was wondering if linking the amps made a cleaner signal. It is my understanding that 2 ohms @ 4400 watts is better than 1 ohm @ 2200 watts x 2. If I was to link the amps, how would I go about doing it? What would need to be input/output from either amp in order to run 4400 watts @ 2 ohms? Thanks guys! <--------------

well my stock alt (105a) is starting to chit out on me. at red lights, the volts drop real low, and the car sometimes will shut off then back on real fast....its not the batt, i tried it with my stocker, as well as a kinetik 2400. its prally when i played my powerbass xa3000d on the stock batt, and the alt couldnt keep up recharging the batt....

hey guys i have a power aucoustik amp 4 channel and its in protect and its not the wireing or anything cause we hooked up a different amp in its same location and that one works fine. i opend the power aucoustik amp and nothing looks out of place but maybe there could be something wrong of the other side of the board you cant see ? ill have to check that but i dont know if i want to completly remove the whole case so i can see the other side. im not using this amp but my friend is counting on useing it is there anything i can do , it was working fine and he called me to his house and it was on protect the fuse was blown put in a new fuse still in protect .

I just secured a 100.4 and 125.2 for an awesome deal and had a few questions, basically to solidify my purchase decision. I was hoping to use the 100.4 for an active front stage 2 way comps. Use 125.2 to run a sa8 in a .75 ported box. I feel the amps are up to those tasks without a secondary processor for the comps and the single 8 should be healthy on the 125.2 @ 2 ohms. Feedback, and suggestions on comp sets and headunits would be welcome as I'm still juggling a few ideas around. Thanks Lymen

Hey guys what up? I have recently start having problems with my HU that I cant figure out. Ive had it now for about 2 years and I notice last that am getting this static, popping noise when I turn my sterring wheel or turn the sub level up. I also tapped on the HU to see if I would get any noise and I did. It seems as though anytime the HU get a bit of a jolt it starts with the noise, whether its me just tapping on it, turning the steering wheel, or turing up the bass level in the truck. Any suggestions? If am leaving anything out just let me know and ill fill it in. Thanks

I have two 12" Kicker L7s on a PA 2400DB, which does about 1400W. My subs are dual 2 ohm and im looking for an amp that does at least 1600 clean watts. Or anything yall would recommend to make these things beat. Don't get me wrong though these things do hit hard. I have a sealed box now, but i may want to go to a ported box. What do yall think the cubic ft. and tuning should be for 2 12" L7s. (I listen mostly to rap) Thanks in advance.

I need an amp for my 15 Icon.It is in a (about)4ft3 ported enclosure.(wired @ 4 Ohms now, but it can change). I am thinking about a Sundown 1000 or 1500, or a Clarion DPX 11500. I did not find a lot of informations about the Clarion, and everybody here loves Sundown. I will probably upgrade to a 15" or 12" Xcon, so I should look for a 1500 watts rms amplifier. What do you guys think? I would like to play at 2 Ohms with the future sub, and at 4 ohms now : so the Clarion looks like the good choice. It seems like very few people have it here. Why? I need something that can play with high temperature, because I am in the Carribeans. I want something very RELIABLE; shippin…

I have the 9813 model head unit it has a time delay feature , easy to set by plugging in your speaker to listening position. Alpine`s web site can give you the settings for your TD . The Bass Focus is a separate feature but when adjusted it affects the time delay. I would like to use the Bass Focus but I do not understand the instructions completely. Is any one else here using this feature and how is it set?

I am getting some money built up to get some SSD's and I want to push them just right. Since I have no experience with Fi Car Audio, I was wondering what would be the best choice of an amp for these subs. Money is almost not an issue with me. But not a rediculously priced amp. Thanks in Advance ~MadroX

I just bought a couple of SA E10's with Dual 4ohm coils and they will be going in a sealed enclosure. What class D amp would you recommend for around $100? I prefer this route so there are no electrical issues with my son's older car. I also have the option of running some old school amps (Lanzar Opti 100-1ohm stable, Lanzar Plus 100-1/2 ohm stable, Lanzar 240-2 ohm stable) I don't like the idea of using my old amps because I don't want them stolen as they are not easily replaceable. Another option is a new Boston GT2200 or a GT2125. I can buy a new 2125 for under $100 but don't know if it will run these E10's well. the GT2200 is more than I want to spend for him and not…

I have a JBL 1200.1db amplifier... what are your guys opinions on this amplifier?

this is my first stereo install and im a little confused. i see that the harness that plugs into the stereo has a longer black ground wire. my adapter harness has a black wire for a ground wire to attach. ive heard that youre supposto ground the stereo to the metal inside the dash. will it be okay leaving the ground wire on the harness that plugs into the factory plug left un touched. will everything function properly? should i NOT solder them but instead ground it in the dash? also the p connect is for the remote wire right?