Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

What size are the screws that hold the mounting bracket on the amp?

Audison HR100

So I've noticed my system makes makes a sound like bacon sizzlin' on a pan when I go from 0 to 1 on the volume knob. It's not noticable at normal listening volumes, but I'm sure it's still present in the signal. I was wondering if this should concern me.

After attending my first bass off in VA last weekend the bug has bitten. Car will be paid off this summer so it's time to start thinking about uprades. I'm not looking to dominate competitions, but I do wanna get way louder. Right now I'm thinking 2-3k would be good for me. Being that I'm running a 5 channel now I know I'll be adding a second amp for the highs. At this point, will an extra battery in back be enough, or do I need to start looking at HO alts? My stock Scion is only 80 amps. Just got a little tax money and would like to put it on something of value towards this. I found a few amps on Craigslist that sparked my attention, although after reading the Stetsom f…

I am currently looking into the three.1 from audiocontrol http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/product....roduct_Id=14149 I was hoping someone with more in-depth tech knowledge could educate me on if this product is worth my while... I have Alpine 9857 1 SS Rubicon 502 100 watts x 2 running my front comps (A/D/S 6-1/2" 346cs) 2 Us Amps MD.1D for my subs.... I am looking to get another amp to toss my A/D/S passive crossovers and run active... If the three.1 from AC isn't gonna fit the bill what would you all recommend I'm not going for competition SQ or anything just what a nice sounding daily beater that sounds pretty darn good to the ear....

Im looking at these 2 amps to power my 12" polk sub(150WRMS) and my front SEPS. Would you guys know which one is better in terms of quality and performance?... just base your answer with your experience and the brand name, just in case you have'nt listen or audition this models.. its not available locally so im asking the experts on AMPS... they are both on the same price range in Ebay, shipped. Im leaning to power acoustik bcoz it has more power than PG though im not sure if it is over rated... But most of the people in other forums recommend PG.... so that's make me confused... so pls help me to decide guys... many thanks... POWER ACOUSTIK OV4 800 * PWM Mosfet Powe…

hi, i have 200 bucks to buy an amp to use to power my re audio xxx comps that i am finally installing. and i am wondering should i get a refurb sax100.2 from db-r and go passive or a new eclipse audio xa4000 and try to do active with them and i have an alpine 9887 for the processing. so it is more like what would you do type thread.

I'm considering going with a stealth install in my new car so I'm researching quality amps that have a small footprint. My previous amps have been eD and I'm currently using a DLS A5. I will be limited to about 11X11 for the new amps and need something to push 1-3 subs (potentially as low as 1ohm total) and a set of components up front. I've seen the Alpine PDX amps and they fit the bill as far as size and power but I'm not sure how I feel about the Alpine gear. I've always considered them kind of mass market average quality stuff. And I also don't know about running Class D for my front stage. The Zed Audio Mililith and Gladius are just a little too big otherwise t…

Was wondering if anyone has one and how accurate is the db meter? Is it worth playing around with. I seen that they made a couple of different models with the spl meter.

When an active x-over is set, amps that power mids and highs, do the x-overs on these amps need to be set to Full Pass? Also, amps that power subwoofers, do these amps' LPF need to be set as high as possible? and if their is a subsonic filter on the active x-over, does the subsonic filter on the amp need to be set as low as possible?

I have a Autotek 1000.1 Mono amp, and 2 JL w6v2's in a sealed boxing coming in Friday. Does anyone have any recommendations for a amp kit? decent, quality, and a good price! Please let me know thanks

hey guys im starting my active build with an alpine 9887 mach5 mli 65 mids and seas neos tweeters im running them off a rockford fosgate p450.4 and i was wondering if anyone who is or has run these speakers can give me a total baseline of what frequencies you were crossing everything over at any information will be greatly apprechiated Brian

Did a quick search on the forums and came up empty. I saw somebody post a link to one on ebay a while ago, but I can't seem to find it. I'm not positive that that is the correct name... When I say voltage meter, I mean something like this. Feel free to correct me if I'm using that phrasing incorrectly. Just wonderin where I can find the best one for the money.

i have 4 choices to choose for an amp for my re audio xxx comps since i really didn't like the offers i had for them. and so i am looking at amps for them and here is what i am thinking. Sundown Saz100-2 Kickers sx250.2 (if they can handle 250 watts) Kickers 400.2 Jl 300/2 These are 2 ohm speakers and i am only going to be running a front stage so they neet to able to get fairly loud since i will be having 2 12" icons for the subs.

Hey guys, I have an old school RF amp. I believe it's a 25.2 Punch (All Grey with the side mounted fins). It has the card on the back of the amp to switch between full/ low and high pass. Does anyone recall the crossover points to this model?

Has any one used these. Good or bad?

"A second battery is never a good idea as it's an added strain on the alternator to charge two batteries AND supply power for the car. The ONLY time a second battery is useful is if the audio system is to be used with the car off."

Okay about 6 months ago i hit the power cable on my amp and it fried the amp... i had to turn the gain way up to get the same output voltage. Anyways i didnt think much of it but i just spent 610 on a new sub and amp and do not want to mess anything up. Last week i checked the preout voltage and it was at 2.3v... its suppose to be 4. (deh-p590ib) Should i replace it. Do you think theres anyway it will cause amp clipping or distortion to ruin my speakers/amps/subs. I have used my system atleast 30 min a day for the past 6 months like this without any damage and there is no noticeable distortion, but i really dont want any of my new stuff to **** up a year from now thanks

what amp would be best matched with a 15" SSD w/ the bp option? orion 1200d RF t1001bd Sundown sae-1000 I can get the orion and rf for about 200 locally and I am waiting for the email back for the sundown. What would you guys choose? thanks for any input -Ryan

hey guys if you could get one of these 2 amps for the same price which would you go with? kicker zx 2500.1 2500 watts birth sheet around 2700 watts us amps md.3d 2000 watts again same price

So I have a very annoying problem and need some advice on how to address it! It seems that I have some serious static noise from the radio. I've done some intensive testing over the weekend, and come to one conclusion. Is that the noise is coming directly from the radio itself. I will list some of the things I've done over the weekend to come to this conclusion. Swap the amplifier for a known good amplifier, problem presist Swap radio with known good radio, problem goes away Swap my rca's into a known good amp(different vehicle), problem goes away Swap rca's from known good radio from another vehicle into my radio, problem is now in that vehicle Ground rca to headunit c…

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so after finally getting everything tuned to where i wanted and set-up i was driving around for a little bit and then out of nowhere there is no bass... pulled over right then and checked the amp.. blue power light is on, no sign of protect mode at all. after work i got home and checked my fuses, all is fine. other speakers are normal, but when i checked speaker outputs from amp there is 0 volts. how do i fix this? hope its not that bad, was just starting to enjoy it all again! its a sundown SAZ-1500D, I've only had it a couple months, but i did get it from Db-r.com, but he does good work, no?

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Hi,I was wanting some guidance on where i should take my electrical to minimize voltage drops. The amps are: hifonics BRZ2100.1 and a soundstream RUB500.4 Electrical: 150A alternator, shuriken BT-80 and shuriken BT-20 (both measure a good 12.7-12.9). 4 gauge big 3, 4 gauge to the soundstream and 0 to the hifonics I was aiming more for a bigger alternator. According to math, give or take a 14.4V crank 14.4v/2600w=180.5A. I'm not sure what current the car is drawing from that. would i be safe with a 240A alternator or do i need to just go 270? and would upgrading the big 3 to 0 be necessary? Thanks!