Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Is there a preferred method in setting multiple gains/levels??? Stuff like: 1. Radio's subwoofer, line-out-converter, volume controls 2. Sound processor input/output/levels 3. Amplifiers' gain

I know everyone's going to be like after reading this but please bare with me. I have a Pioneer 800prs and 3sixty.2 that I want to use together for a 3way + sub active setup. I'm just looking for the best way to hook them up to eachother. Alright, the 3sixty.2 allows 50hz-10khz on the front and rear outputs and 50hz-200hz on the sub output. Center will not be utilized unless later on I feel like adding a light rear fill (mono). The 3sixty also allows Bandpass, HP, LP, and Bypass on the front and rear outputs and LP only on the sub output. The 3sixty has a 31-band EQ for the Front Channels, 27-band EQ for the Rear and Center channels, and a 10-band EQ for the subwoofer.…

im planning a large build right now and was thinking if my alternator only puts out 250 or so amps and my wire is rated at 300amps is multiple runs really needed? my plan is one DC or equal 270 amp alt( doubt i can find a dual alt for this car). 2 runs + and two runs - from the starting battery to my battery bank of 9 batteries running approx 10k watts.

I planned on putting 4 strobe lights inside my wall (sealed off from box shinning through a plexi window). I wanted to know if it is possible to hook up a music interface to these and if so where can I find one?

Anyone have any experience with grounding a second battery or amplifiers in the back of a 2005+ mustang? I know that I could always run the ground from the front battery to the back, but looking to see if there is a good ground to use in the back.

ok so i got a new HU and i connected everything according to what i know. my HU is a jvc kd-g820 when i plug the wires to the HU it makes a noise that you can hear is working then it stops but when i try to turn on nothing happens. my question is do i have to connect the illumination wire to the orange or to the 12v which is yellow ? since nothing happens when press any buttons

Ok, im pretty sure I have this right but I would like some confirmation to be sure. This is basically what my electrical will be.. the few things that can vary will be battery location, in the picture im going to add at the bottom I put the 2nd battery at the bottom(back).. easy to understand. the vehicle will be a Tahoe which has a 2nd battery tray.. should i use that 2nd tray or just keep it in the back close to the amps? That is one thing i wasnt 100% on, also Ill have a Kinetik HC2000 and a Kinetik HC1800 ... do i want the bigger of the 2 in the back? Also will someone look at my fusing in my picture to make sure that is correct also before i go buy all these damn fus…

I think my current wire from the alt is 8 gauge. It goes into a solenoid or something before the wire goes to the battery. I can't upgrade the wiring to 1/0 straight from the alternator to battery. Since my alternator is placed in the middle side of the engine. I tried getting to it but is impossible. Gotta pull the engine up or take most of the parts off it. So frustrating. Would it matter much about the alternator to batt wire size? Since the output on the alt isn't switched I'm just running stock alt.

well i was at a stop light with the system on about 1/4 the way up so not drawing much power. my volt meter was reading 13.8-14V constent. then when i took off from the stop light i cranked her back up to around 3/4 volume ( slowly increased volume) and i heard a loud squeel from under the hood and everything shut off ( HU,amp subs, ect. ) my volt meter was going nuttsssss. it went from 14V down to 12.1 in a milla second and eveything was powered off so nothing was drawing power besides the truck running. so now i have to find a replacement alt with hardly any cash... im F'd in the A big time now.

so i was on my way home from my local audio shop and boom. my amp stopped playing and started blowing smoke. i only had my stero on 25 out of 60.it was a mtx 1501d elite. so before i even got to my driveway, i turned around and went right back to the audio shop. befor i even opened the door, he started laughing because he knew what happened. haha he told me come back in 3 days with $75 and itll be as good as new. just thought id share my story with yall **R.I.P. mtx 1501d elite series**

Hey all. I was just wondering if there was a way to prevent my amp from clipping when I turn the bass up. Also could someone explain exactly what clipping is on a amp? My amp is a AQ2200 my head unit is a Clarion CZ200 my subs are Alpine Type R 15's and I have tsunami 1/0 gauge wiring and all stock electrical. My car is a 1977 oldsmobile delta 88. Oh and I do have a extra battery and I have checked my voltage and it stays around 13.20 when bass hits. Any help is very much appreciated. Thank you.

I have a DHD NTX-2009 4 channel amp it does 250w x 4 max output. I wanted to use it for my mids and highs. I bought it used $20 on craigslist, expecting there to be errors and that maybe I can fix it. Right now I'm in a stump because I can get it to turn on, but it doesn't output sound, music. All my wires are correct and the fuses aren't blown so what could be a problem? I'm not really good at fixing amps or troubleshooting but maybe you guys can help. Ex. Had it hooked up in my truck wired to my door speakers and tweeters, played some music and the only output was my subs on my SAZ 1500. No sound from my speakers. And does anyone know a place I can trust to ship …

Okay I have the stetsom 5k2e and it only has one rca input.. My radio offers two. I took a y splitter from the radio and came out to one wire for my rca to the back. When I plugged it in there was no sound from my amp. Now here is the kicker I took the 4 channel rca that is going to the rear and plugged it into the stetsom and boom it worked. So my question is how do I test my rca wire to make sure it is getting power I have my dmm but dont want to F nothin up. So please help if you can! Thnx ahead of time!

so im in class right now, and i cant focus cuz im so pissed off. all i have is a brutus 2608 on a Fi BL. running @ 2 ohms (rated 1700 rms). so heres what happened. im on my way to class, which is about a 20 minute drive. the music was on the whole time. probably going half tilt for the 1st half, then going hard for the last 10 mins. i have never encountered any problems with the amp in the past, so im very conused why it decided to shit out. im running a stock alt and battery, which i know is not enough for this amp, but thats what it is. i never properly set my gain, ive always just turned it down when i saw voltage drop or heard any clipping. back to the story, …

so ive had this amp for awhile and havent hooked it up but when i took it apart i seen burn up pieces tell me what you guys think could be wrong with it this is a REALLy bad picture i only have a picture phone for pictures sorry lemme know what could be wrong with it EDIT- hmm i edited the first pictures with an arrow pointing at the sport but it wont come up when i post it, so i will just tell you its located at the top right part of it

basicly when i hook up the 12v source it cuts on without the rem connection and stays on, even if i conncet the rem. i'll recheck it in the morn, cuz its rainin, but yea.

So I hooked back up my amplifier today and when I turned the headunit on and played some music I realized that no bass was coming from my subwoofer and my amp was in protect mode. I also noticed that my lights would flicker and dim and why voltage dropped to like 12 volts. Any suggestions to what the problem may be?

So I hooked back up my amplifier today and when I turned the headunit on and played some music I realized that no bass was coming from my subwoofer and my amp was in protect mode. I also noticed that my lights would flicker and dim and why voltage dropped to like 12 volts. Any suggestions to what the problem may be?

ok so i was bumpin' and after a while(10-15min), my fuse popped so i park/turn off the car, go to the back and change my 50amp fuse(got a couple for backup in the car) so then i turn on the car, i start turning up the volume VERY slowly... then I hear and see a BIG spark as if a thunder was in my trunk(the amp is naked)... and electrical smell and smoke went off, but not alot..., so i turn off the car straight up and go take off my rear battery's negative connections... so now idk what to do? what did cause this? and why my fuse popped in the first place(does that sometimes, not the first time)... is it safe to plug things bak? the reason i dindt is because I dont want …

i dont get it. i was doin an install on my friends car and the speakers werent working. I decided to take my eD9.2 out of the car and and switch the pg out to see if i hooked everything up correctly. Everything was fine. Now here is the problem. Once i put everything back in to my car and hooked everything up, i found out that both my amps wouldnt turn on. i checked the fuses, all fine, all the connections, fine also. the HU works.... but it seems that my amps wont turn on. What the heck happened?

alright, i currently have the Pioneer AVH-4300DVD and i really like it and was thinking about getting the AVH-P4400BH for my H2, but have also been looking into the Kenwood DDX-719 and was wondering if anybody has had the opportunity to play with both and what your opinions were about the Kenwood? i haven't gotten to play with the Kenwood at all, but it looks good on paper.

hi i wanted some info on how take make my electrical system to 14.4 volts i have a 1997 jetta vr6 so i would guess i have 12v system how can i make it higher so my amp would put out the right watts i have a brutus 1605 thanks.

hey guys again with some noob questions Tomorrow i am going to start my build be for i get far into it on my old setup i had an extra battery i had the negative on the second battery connected to my main battery since there both in the trunk so my question is was that wrong? should i have the additional battery's grounded to the frame? if i am right about my mistake i am thinking of grounding my additional battery's to the frame. then power from main battery to second then third battery and a fuse from battery 3 to amp? that correct?

Ok I'll explain what is in his car, Alt is stock for now (his excessive amperage one just blew, again) Batteries are two kinetik 2000's( one up front one in back) Runs of 1/0 and 3/0 to the back Big three in 1/0 3/0 wires and 1/0 wires and 4 awg wires to amps Head unit is a double din pioneer and 3 premiums on the back, Subs are two 15" dc xls dual 1's Amp for subs is a saz3500 Door speakers are kicker coaxials powered by a boss 2 channel He has four 6" selenium mids powered by a jl audio 2 channel And that was his setup and everything has been going fine. Now, he just bought two selenium horns and two selenium supertweeters (st200's) and a Boston acoustics amp fro…

I'm torn between the following choices in amplifiers... JL 300/2 Audison LRx 2.250 ARC Audio 2100CXL Linear Power 2.2hv PPI ART A600 I have been told that my Koda's will take full range..but that's just not floating my boat at this moment..probably cross them at 60ish..so Out with the LP and PPI... Someone either suggest something new..or help me make up my mind. The only difference with the other 3 is price. With my budget...the ARC and JL will have to be used, while I have a chance to get the Audison at a great price. Last real difference between the 3 is crossover ability...the JL has 12/24db selectable, while the Audison and ARC have only 12db. I guess the real ques…