Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have two 12" Kicker L7s on a PA 2400DB, which does about 1400W. My subs are dual 2 ohm and im looking for an amp that does at least 1600 clean watts. Or anything yall would recommend to make these things beat. Don't get me wrong though these things do hit hard. I have a sealed box now, but i may want to go to a ported box. What do yall think the cubic ft. and tuning should be for 2 12" L7s. (I listen mostly to rap) Thanks in advance.

I won an auction last night on a Diamond audio 400.4 amp under a hundred shipped. Not familiar at all with the brand but had heard of it which is why I went ahead and got it. Any words of wisdom regarding the brand and amp?

Hey guys, i'm having a problem with my front comp speakers (PG RSD 6.5) and the amp for them (Sundown SAX-100.2) I just put a new head unit into the car, its a Sony xplod CDX-gt 5. I know, its a garbage head unit but i'm selling the car and didn't want to give away my good unit with it. My problem is that there is almost no sound coming out of the front speakers even though i have the gains flat out maxed on the amp. Help would be greatly appritiated.

What does anyone and everyone think of this headunit.I dont mean looks or price i mean sound and quality?

Any suggestions, about 800watts, its for a 10" ssd

Is this ok or a no-no? I just added 4 gauge wire in addition to the factory wire(wired it to the same spot and sanded paint off the ground) and replaced the factory battery terminal blocks with stinger ones.

guy at RE said to get a power acoustik 3000.. I saw it for 339$ and i get like 2300watts at 1 ohm. That an the planet audio amp. He said there dam near the same. anybody got any better deal, wt that i need 2 for each 18. Any more power for a good price i'm open to any ideas.

So I have a very annoying problem and need some advice on how to address it! It seems that I have some serious static noise from the radio. I've done some intensive testing over the weekend, and come to one conclusion. Is that the noise is coming directly from the radio itself. I will list some of the things I've done over the weekend to come to this conclusion. Swap the amplifier for a known good amplifier, problem presist Swap radio with known good radio, problem goes away Swap my rca's into a known good amp(different vehicle), problem goes away Swap rca's from known good radio from another vehicle into my radio, problem is now in that vehicle Ground rca to headunit c…

I am looking at these there.All three are around the same price. Going to be pushing a Dcon 10 in a sealed box.Seems like they all get some decent ratings.Not sure If would really need the power of the Brutus for the Dcon though. 1.Hifonics BRZ1200.1D 2.Alpine MRP-M650 3.Alpine MRP-M500

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/shop/in...p;productId=108 What is that amps peak power, if 500watts is RMS? Also does it include a bass controller? and can I set my subs to run off a switch so that I can turn them on and off.

I need to get a cheap crossover fast so I can take out my damn 3sixty.2 which is having bluetooth issues and send it in AGAIN...anyway. How bad are the crossovers on this page: Parts Express Any other suggestions on something I can get cheap. Something with high level inputs would be ideal, but I can run a LOC too. Best case would be 2 way active plus sub, but I really could get by with out the sub and without the bandpass on the mid channel because I could use the amp crossover for that (my mains are on a pair of Sundown 100.2's).

I am currently looking into the three.1 from audiocontrol http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/product....roduct_Id=14149 I was hoping someone with more in-depth tech knowledge could educate me on if this product is worth my while... I have Alpine 9857 1 SS Rubicon 502 100 watts x 2 running my front comps (A/D/S 6-1/2" 346cs) 2 Us Amps MD.1D for my subs.... I am looking to get another amp to toss my A/D/S passive crossovers and run active... If the three.1 from AC isn't gonna fit the bill what would you all recommend I'm not going for competition SQ or anything just what a nice sounding daily beater that sounds pretty darn good to the ear....

can a one wire self exciting alt be wired to the same batt as the stock alt ? or can two stock alts run to the same batt ? or would they have to be two seperate power systems ?

recommendations needed for an amp the plan currently is to run incriminator audio comps up front and a dcon 15 dual 4 in a ported box in the back now Id prefer to only have to run one amp and to slightly over power the dcon so what 4 channel amps do you think would be worth it to bridge the rear channels or are there any great 3 channels or even 5 channels since I could hook the rear channel on a 5 channel to my drop down tailgate speakers Thanks guys

So to get any decent volume out of my new sub, i have to have the gain on my new amp really high.....too high and the bass boost up pretty far too. I know the RCAs arent the best, and its a sony HU.....but still, any ideas?

Soo i was drivin down the street bumpin and all the sudden my subs cut off, when i checked it the amp was not turned on but the fuse wasnt blown, i took the fuse out then put it back in, the amp turned back on immedatley after. next time im driving it does the same thing and i have to take the fuse out and put it back in to turn on the amp. it only cuts out when i turn it up to a little over half volume. i would just go throw on another fuse but they dont sell any 250a fuses at my local places so id have to order online

What type of amp should i get to run two skar audio vvx 12" dual 2ohm vc. I'm thinking two Hifonics hf 2000d's one on each sub. My limit it $500 for a good quality amp that does either 3000+ watts at 1ohm or .5ohm. I want .5ohms stable

I lost my license for 12months er, speed racer me. Any how i have... IVA-W200... 500/1 jl amp.. wiring... subs (i can uninstall those) my question is this with the deck cant i just take off the dash, take out the fixture and unhook the harness and im done? or what am i missing with the amp and wiring just un hook it from the battery and remove right? I just dont want to damage anything please guide me.

Would I be able to run 2 alternators on my 2003 Lancer if i made the bracket and had room for it? If so how would I go about wring the second one in, or could I have it wired to just my audio battery ?

Hey guys, Been a while, but it is warm again. I am going to a friends, and he is putting 6 cheap components in the back of his car temp. He has 1 amp which is a 2 channel amp. Should I do 3 a piece or should I bridge the amp? Should I do 6 off of it? Thanks Josh

Did you know that of all places Circuit City is now stocking Eclpise?? I have just gotten and installed the CD-3000 and I do have to say it is VERY nice for the money. Not a ton of features that you dont need but it seems to have good clean sound. Nice 5v constant outputs from the pre-amp. A few built in EQ's and a somewhat OK cross-over. It playes MP3's ect and has a pretty nice display! I would love to see the CD-7000 in action. Then again.. I dont need navagation! Good day all!

long story short. stupid on my part. but i am in the process of getting a thing built so i can hold my box and amp down, without having to screw into the seat or false floor. so for the time being it is freely hanging out in the back of my jeep. the sub slides around alot, the amp barely moves. well saturday night i was driving around with frineds, and went to a part of town i rarely go too, and witht he fresh snow on the ground i didn't see a speed bump (no signs...) well i hit it and i looked int he reiw view mirror, i saw my sub slide, but not really go in the air. i heard my tool box fly up, and i'm assuming my amp did too, as they were by eachother. after it landed,…

Is this normal? I guess its hard to say, but I own a 2004 Impala, stock alternator. My battery finally died after 9 years of use and when I threw the new one in its charging at 15.5volts. Im just hoping a regulator isnt shot or anything stupid. Obviously constant overcharge can cause batteries to prematurely fail. Just checking to make sure everything is normal here.

I have a aouple of rattles left to get out of my car. I bought some 60 mil dynamat type sound deadener off ebay. one of the last rattles I have is the heat deflector that is mounted 2 1/2" away from my muffler. it probably doesn't get near as hot as the muffler, but I want to get some feedback on it before I put any on the top of the deflector. does anyone know how much heat these deadeners can take safely. Should I put the deadener on the deflector? any advice would be appreciated. thanks Josh

Ive always had my wires installed for me but Im doing it myself now. Im puting in a Sundown 1500 in a Explorer. What all do I need? 1/0 ga wire, dist blocks, circuit breakers, etc??? I want to use Knu wires so if theres a link to a complete amp kit that would be fine.