Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

ok, my s10 3 door has the ram designed box now only problem is the box comes to 3" below the back window. and takes up the whole extra cab. 4.75 cubes. my idea for mounting the 2500d are now limited. can it be mounted upside down? i was thinking of building/welding brackets across roof and mounting upside down. any ideas are helpful

OK. I know this is a HORRIBLE post and probably an open ended question... I am wondering what can be added to my setup to make it better "overall"? I am seeing a bunch of stuff about things which i have never heard of and am currently researching a few different things to see if something might be missing. My main thing is the speakers or rather all the settings on the amp for the speakers. Last time i was getting ready to install my system i just turned the volume ot the max I would ever play it and then started screwing with the amp until it sounded good. IIRC i had it switched to HPF and then just started tweeking the freq. and such until it stopped sounding like …

A quick question I am planing to buy this wire from knuconcepts when it asks me to choose fuse size what do i pick right now i am running a dc l4 12 with an aq1200d. i want to upgrade in the near future with 2-3k watts:) the question is it fine if i get the 300 amp fuse? http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-PK0

I recently got a nice deal on two used mm1400.1d's. Now i'm considering running them together on one BTL 12. Does it matter if one has a little more wear and tear than the other? Will it be okay as long as i check that i have the amps sending the same output wattage with a multimeter? Is it a bad idea all together?

Ok I don't usually like to ask these type of versus questions but I've narrowed my replacement amp (for my blown RE35.1D) to these last 3(I needed a 1500 watt amp that is <18" in length and these were the only few i could find): -RF BD1500-1, the new model -Sundown SAZ-1500D -USAmps md2d The Sundown is the largest and the hardest to put on my amp rack but it's also the cheapest and from all the opinions I've seen a very nice choice. The USAmps is tempting though the most expensive choice. The RF is just tiny nd woud make installs easier. However, I can only afford it if I purchase it on ebay which means it will have a crappy warranty. Any opinion, positive or negative …

1st off let me say that a dd1 is not currently available anywhere around me at the moment. And I just got my system installd so I wont be able to afford a dd1 for a month or 2. Also no shops around me have a scope (dont ask me how they set their gains). So I have to temp DMM set it. Question is ive read alot of people saying to set it to the HU preouts which would be 2volts. Even on volume 29 the gain is pretty much all the way down at 2 volts. Or do I set it from the watts/ohms chart that ive seen around the web? Which would put me around 38-42volts? Which of the 2 should I go by? Also what setting do I set the DMM to, I know its Vac, But is it 200, 2000, ... ? Any info …

I have a 2003 Saturn Ion with a 2.2L Ecotech Engine with a stock 105A alternator, im trying to upgrade my big three but im running into obstacles so im coming here for some creative input. Yesterday I pulled the box out my trunk and finally took the spare out since its pointless in being under there and got to my starting battery (located in trunk where Saturn puts them). I completed the Big 1 so far using Kicker 1/0 Gauge ground wire and my voltage is outstanding so far when I idle I dont stay 14.0v to 14.1v (use to be 13.7v to 13.8v) when I crank my car im at 14.3v to 14.4v (use to be 14.0v to 14.1v in this Texas Summer Heat we been in the 100's last few days) and when …

Well people I am debating to whether to keep my Arc Audio amps installed or take my Zapco DC amps out of the closet and swap the Arc Audio for the Zapco DC. If you were doing the SQ build which one would you do? Thank you Ebrahim

im lookin for an HO alt for my truck. i have been to iraggi, mean-green, etc etc. send emails to the ones that didnt have ratings on them (ie, mean green. cost but no amperage rating) i have been researching the companies for the past 3 or so days. and i can tell you, IM FREAKIN SCARED! ive heard horror stories from all the companies. ngsm had a mean green with a misaligned bearing, tons of iraggi alt failures and a few doa, EVEN MORE DOAS from excessive. and i cant afford an ohio gen (even though i heard 2 chit stores about them as well). so here is my question is it really worth to get an HO alternator? i am running a 20.1 at 1 ohm right now (and from the test i saw on …

Hey guys i need some help looking for a head unit for my car. Budget: around $160 so used is a option to maximize my bang for buck. Goals: Nice Stereo Remote Sub out Control in the future might want to amp the front stage CD,mp3, and usb thanks guys!

I've seen several topics on this forum and other forums selling the Sundown 4500D for $900-1100 in just opened or unopened condition. Last I remember, they MSRPed for over $1800. I've been away from car audio for a while and I was wondering if there is a big scam out, or the 4500D just isn't what its crack up to be, or whats going on with that?

ok im currently running sum cheap o wiring and id like to know what is the best route to upgrade it im running a 130 amp alt upped from a 60 amp. Big 3 is done with some good 4ga scraps i rounded up at the shop with copper ring terminals crimped on. I am running a RE audio dts 1500.1 amp battery is unfortunately stock till i go pick up my yellow top this sunday. Should i just get a quality O.F.C. amp wiring kit? Should I just order some welding lead and build my own? If I do either of these do i need to get 4ga or thicker like 2 or 0ga? There is also a 200 or so watt 2 chanel amp running 2 memphis 6x9s. this amp is already ran and hooked up tho so i could…

was connecting my UV neon , with the cig lighter in my car , suddenly it smoked up , n smelled like burned plastic, suddenly it went off, and when i touched it it was very hot... any idea , why did that happen ?? pluse the neon wasnt underbody or anything , it was inside the cabin, n no water or any liquid can reach it .. thnx for any helpful ideas

Anybody on the forum fix amps? I hav a shok industries II. Got it in a trade amp is blown

Would i need a new battery and alternator to run 1500 watts...i have a rockfor fosgate 250.2 and have it bridged to 2 ohms i'm aware that i'm not suppose to do that but not too concerned about the amp i just need something to push the 10's behind my seat...but i am wanting to run a 1000 watt 1 channel amp to power a 15" Fi Q...please help

so im thinkin about selling my hifonics 1610d and buying a sae1200d from sundown. would that b a good idea? im running 1 18" fi q with bp power in a 6.3 cubic foot box after sub and port displacement.

I bought my HU today for my 240. I decided on the Eclipse 8443. I intended to get the 8053 with BLA but I just bought the Viper 1200.1 for my Altima.

I'm about to do a Big 3 upgrade on my car. I found some wire from a company called Install Bay. Has any one ever used there products? Oh I'm using 1/o gauge for the upgrade.

ok so when i first turn my car on my volts are usually 14.2 when im not even playin my sub or have my ac on it slowly drops to 13.5 and sits there. then the rest of the day i never see 14s again i had my alt checked and its fine so i have no idea wat it is. any ideas?

Hey guys so heres the deal... got a DLS CA31 amp powering my whole system right now... which consists of a pair of DLS R6As for components and a Sound Splinter Rli-10 sub downfired in about .8 cubes sealed.. this is all in a regular cab truck so i was trying to save on space with an all in one amp when i built my system but the amp has been problematic... in the first month it was in a transistor went out... and now bout 10 months later it started hissing at me.. so i sent it back for repair again and half the board was fried... anyways im contemplating getting a new amp depending on how the DLS does when i get it back.. i would like a 3ch unit but my only problem is my s…

Im debating whether I should buy a Leviathan or a 100.4 I currently have Bravox CS60CF, and will have 8" midbass in the door in the future. At first I was going to use a 100.4 for the mids/highs (Bravox CS60CF) and the 125.2 for the midbass. But then I found out about the leviathan which does 150rms and has 6 channels. I could use 4 of them for the Bravox, and the other 2 channels share them for the 2 midbass drivers (but then it would be 75rms per midbass driver). Disadvantages are single vs double amps (space) and extra power/ground runs of wire. And using only 2 channels for the Bravox wouldnt work because that would mean back to passive I cant seem to find advantages …

I have a JL 500/5 which is 100 rms ch 1 & 2 and 25 rms ch 3 & 4 I am thinking of using it to run my bravox cs60cf active. My biggest question is what should i do about the rear should i amplify the rear speakers (bravox cx60cf) or run them off the deck. The reason I ask is because I also have a JL e4300 4 channel amp. I have heard some people say dont amp the rears and some say you should amp them and i don't know what to do yet any help would be cool.

at what frequency is the subsonic filter for the audiocontrol epicenter i know that the soundstream and others have it at 35hz, but i dont know the audiocontrol subsonic filter i want to buy one, but my box is tuned to 32hz

Now, wheres the best place (price wise) to pick up more Blue Top D34's... (9) ANL fuses (upto 500Amp)... -and- Fuseblocks and Distro blocks? -Nick