Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hi. Don't know if there was a thread already, looked back but couldn't find one. I need help. Alright. So, not too long ago, a friend that seems like he knows a decent amount about car audio set the gain and bass boost on my amp. My amp is a 1000w mono block, and it was pushing a 15" spl sub rated at 1400rms. It sounded really good, but all of the sudden, it blew a single voice coil. Obviously, I was upset. I got a replacement for the sub, the same one, but I just don't want to blow it again. Can anyone help with tuning the amp by gain? And I've also heard to NEVER touch the bass boost. Is that true? Oh, and when setting the gain, should I have my head unit as high as I…

My Friend Has 3 Kicker 12" L7's With A Db Audio 1600 Watts. Stock Electrical. He Was Wondering What Would Be Better To Get An Equalizer Or A Crossover ?? What Do Yall Think ? They Both Bassicaly Do The Same Dont They

I have a Pioneer Premier DEH-P800PRS High Fidelity head unit. I was thinking about getting a processor. Since I have never owned any type of sound processor. my question is. Am I going to put this thing in line with my amps and make 19000db on the mic or will that 300$ investment barely be noticed?? My deck already has t/a, 16 band eq, 3 way active set up, I can adjust each individual speaker for gain and eq, so what will a processor do for me. is it really worth the money?

hey guys again with some noob questions Tomorrow i am going to start my build be for i get far into it on my old setup i had an extra battery i had the negative on the second battery connected to my main battery since there both in the trunk so my question is was that wrong? should i have the additional battery's grounded to the frame? if i am right about my mistake i am thinking of grounding my additional battery's to the frame. then power from main battery to second then third battery and a fuse from battery 3 to amp? that correct?

i bought this deck yesterday and it comes with the demo mode on, in the insructions it says to push and hold the volume knob in for 2 seconds and it will switch it from on to off, and off to on depending on what its already in, but when i do this the mode is still on, can anyone help me? it would be greatly appreciated

Okay so im asking this question for a friend of mine. He just recently bought a hu from a local shop and they do free instal with the purchase...well they said that his car has a factory amp and that they will have to by pass it by running all new wires which will cost $120. I am still learning but this just doesnt seem right. I mean why would you want to bypass a amplifier? The shop said that running the amp would equal less output to the speakers but bypassing it would make it louder. I just dont quite understand the logic so if someone could explain it would be great. thanks

Im getting a 18' Fi BL 1000watt Subwoofer and I have no idea what kinda amp to get...Im looking to spend under $250...what kind of specs do i look for in a amp?? ALso i have the choice of getting a 1 ohm or 2ohm subwoofer wtf is that all about i have no clue???HELP!

ok, for setting gains with the DMM method, do i use 0dB tones, or can i get away with using, say -6dB or -3dB tones? I've heard recommendations for using as much as -6dB tone (that seems a little much to me) so i guess what I'm asking is how loud does most music get? does it regularly hit 0dB, or more like -3, -6, etc?

yay or nay? i have 2 alpine type r 12's

Anyway all i have right now is a Soundstream XTA600.2 600 Watts RMS and my Oz Audio Matrix Elite 15 and its dimming even with that. I have been looking around and i cant find that many alternators for my car i had been recommended to call ohiogen to ask? my lights have been dimming when idling especially when the air is on at the same time, i have a 1995 dodge stealth and they alternators are weak on them and i believe i even have the upgraded 140 amp ......it could be the 110 amp thought im not sure, but i was told that i couldn't go past a 140 amp that it probably cant be wound more than that.... I saw this by powerbastards http://powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?pro…

Hey anyone sell a varible subsonic filter?

if on my battery i am running a 2 gauge wire to my alternator and a 2 gauge wire to my amps coming from the positive battery terminal post, is ok to wire one 0 gauge wire from the battery to the frame or does it have to be (2)-2 guage wires going from the battery's negative terminal post to frame. in the long run after running two batteries i will come up with close to 5 ground wires that needed to be grounded to the frame and i wanted to lighten the load if possible but if not its cool.

I was just wondering is the Audiopipe AQX35001 a good Amp for the money? There arent but 3 stores who sale it on the whole internet.. It is $475 shipped here http://www.rickiesdiscountelectronics.com/...fier-21902.html $499 plus shipping here http://cardiscountstereos.com/catalog%20pa...ct+%23=AQX35001 and $549 plus shipping here http://www.choicecaraudio.com/Catalog_Page...ct+%23=AQX35001 Here are some of the Specs 1 Ch @ 4ohm: 750w RMS 1 Ch @ 2ohm: 1650w RMS 1 Ch @ 1ohm: 3500w RMS I know that the Audiopipe AP30001D was a good amp for the money at least that is what i heard everywhere. I never personally have heard one

ive been looking for a decent amp and i ran across some forums sayin that the fusion 4000's are good amps, so how are the others? or is the 4000 the only decent one? im lookin at the 3000 for $228...

i was looking around on the net i saw this amp audiopipe 30001d its 30inch long wow has anyone used them? you can get them for cheap 400 also has anyone used the 2 channel and for channel amps?

i have 4 cvrs in two boxes they are wired in the box and are ready to be hook up just need help hooking all four to mono amp.

I have an aq2200d that will be powering a ss rl-p 18 at 4 ohms. When i go to wire it up, do i use the outside pos and neg ports on the amp? Also, i have a kicker 200.4 for one set of components. I want to bridge the amp to make 100.2 at 4 ohms, but im confused when it comes to wiring it. there are two rows of inputs for speakers. one row says amp 1, and the other says amp 2. would i just do one speaker on one row, then the other on the second row? sorry its confusing. ill try and find a picture. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures.php?id=11366

I was wondering if I needed to solder the ends of my power wire(1/0 knuconcepts) before i put it into my amps. Same goes for the speaker wire going to my sub and speakers. Also, can i just get a cheap battery powered soldering iron, or do i have to get a nicer one? thanks.

well i have a amp (cactus 5kw) and it has four speaker terminals and im trying to hook up a 2ohm load to it. my question is if i hook 2ohms up to it will it be 2ohms or would it bridge it down to 1ohm?????? thanks

Was wondering if anyone has one and how accurate is the db meter? Is it worth playing around with. I seen that they made a couple of different models with the spl meter.

Hi guys I hope all is good. Years ago we all had capacitors in our cars ( 1990's ) and later we went to the Batcaps. Why did we stop using them?? Did batteries kill them off are what? Are do people still use them and I just didn't see them?

on my highs amp, im running the power wire as 8 gauge and the ground wire as 4 gauge(i was told this was ok by a friend and professional installer). im not doubting his credibility, i just wanted to know what are the advantages and disadvantages if there are any to wiring your amps this way

i have a lanzar opti 2000d and i think its one of the best bang for your buck! i have used it in all ways 4 ohm 2 ohm i have had it down to .65 ohms for two years never!!! shut down even in the summer with massive audio subwoofers also very good subwoofers has anyone used lanzar opti amps

i bought http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KLE12BL knu 12 gauge and my question is do I split the wire into two or do I wrap them together. Or is one tube for positive and the other negative? so like instead of two wires running to my amp I will have one then at the amp I will split it into two by separating the 2 chambers?

as of now my gains are set to the max preout voltage of my headunit (just got a dmm the other day), so pretty conservatively. but now that I am going to set them more aggressively with the dmm, i want to make sure not to send a clipped signal to either my mids or subs, but for both, i'm going to be using the full rated RMS of my amps. so my question is: is there any way to know if my amps will be able to do rated without clipping? if you just have to guess based on the amps, the amps are: a TMA 320.4 (4-channel from JL's entry level brand) and a Massive P1000.1 (at 4 ohms) no, i don't have an O-scope