Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have an upgraded alt. to 180A (i know not much, but all I could get with my car) BIG 3 are done... 2 extra batts. in the trunk.... I wake up yesterday, and for the first time ever my battery light AND brake light are on, so I'm like wtf.... to coincidental, must be something stupid that needs to be re-set... I just went out there and tested my battery.. With car ON, it reads 12.35, car OFF 12.45....... I reved the engine with the car on and it went up like .2-.3 ANybody know what this indicates...whether it means bad battery, or bad Alt.....???? Battery is only 2 months old PLEASE HELP! Just spent like 600 on electrical upgrades not to long ago

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i was wondering if maybe there is some kind of really easy way that works well for tuning an amp. the instruction booklet shows most settings for things like sub eq, subsonic, and frequency as set to halfway is this something that i should do with it right out of the box or should i try and tweak the knobs to some other directions. if anyone knows of a easy way to make the settings easy to set and sound fine it would help me a lot. thanks

I'm looking to get a new head unit that will stream audio from my Droid to the unit. 2 Questions... 1. What are the sound quality limitations of Bluetooth transfer. 2. What are my options for the best head units available that offer streaming audio. Goals: I want better audio quality than the crappy headphone out and preferably the least amount of filtering to the signal (I have an H701 to handle processing needs) It would be awesome if the unit featured a digital out for connection to my H701, though it's not necessary. More info available when I get time to type it later

ok, since fords are a bit**, and the ground and power wire are connected behind the engine, and i would never be able to get them off and back on without taking alot of stuff off, maybe even the engine, can i just cut the original wires, close to where it is connected and just add my new wire to it. Because most people say that if you do the same with an amp it wont make a diffrence, so would it work. nv about clip.

i plan on running a power and ground directly to my amps from under the hood. i dont really want to ground into the trunk. does this make a difference? i am also going to do the big 3 upgrade. kicker zx2500.1, and a zx650.4 are the amps. 2 optima 34/78 yellow tops.

seen there was a guy with a blazer that had one and i got a blazer how bad does it draw current?how big of alt you got and batteries?

I’m having trouble tuning my mrd-m1000 to my 12” kicker l7t at 600 rms I’m not sure how to tune it properly to my subs specifications and I’m looking for help please!

Anybody have any suggestions, pros or cons about this? I have a nice JVC (forget the model#) that has a bad a@@ equalizer and five volt preouts, and basicly everything I want in a headunit. I've done a lot of research on here and in general about line drivers, some people swear by them and some say they are a waste of money. Anyways I came across an Audio Control video that explained the said line driver and they were saying that like power wire rca's tend to lose a little power with longer runs and could possibly pick up noise and such. In general I'm looking to get just the cleanest signal I can get and was wondering if i could get that by adding this piece? I'm not wor…

So I installed my 4 AA Carbon fibers and my SAX-100.4 just now and when i turn my truck off a "POP" comes from the speakers, i only turned my truck off twice so i only heard it twice and i think its coming from 2 speakers. How do i get it to stop thanks guys.

new models link >> http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/press/asset...F_PowerAmps.pdf :4123357f3da0f6e125a54:

Hey guys so heres the deal... got a DLS CA31 amp powering my whole system right now... which consists of a pair of DLS R6As for components and a Sound Splinter Rli-10 sub downfired in about .8 cubes sealed.. this is all in a regular cab truck so i was trying to save on space with an all in one amp when i built my system but the amp has been problematic... in the first month it was in a transistor went out... and now bout 10 months later it started hissing at me.. so i sent it back for repair again and half the board was fried... anyways im contemplating getting a new amp depending on how the DLS does when i get it back.. i would like a 3ch unit but my only problem is my s…

i dont want to second guess myself so im trying to get another opinion on a good estimation of what size fuses i need to get. what im running is a kinetik 1800 in the hood and a kinetik 1800 in the back of tundra (ext. cab with seats taking out) with 2 runs of 0g. i have a 180 amp alt under the hood complete with the big 3 all in 0g. I have two ANL inline holders, one in the wire right after the + terminal on the kinetik in the hood and then one on the wire in between the alt and + terminal on the kinetik under the hood. What size should i get for those two (they should both be the same right)? are there any other places that would be ideal to place an inline fuse. then i…

I'm waiting on my wire to come in so I'm trying to map out how I'm going to wire it up. 1998 Ext f150, 2 15 ufo btls on a saz 3500 for now, eventually 5-7k, Audio Technix ofc 0ga and 10ga just for background info. This will be my first time running my own wire so I just wanted to double check this would be sufficent for my build. I would like to avoid cutting a hole in the floor and since I had a couple holes already I figured I'd use them. The holes are the mounting holes for my back bench that I took out. Obviously the carpet will be cut away completely and the area will be sanded/cleaned up. I'm thinking use a bolt (with or without washers idk what is better) and h…

Would it be better to install a kinetik HC 1400 and replace my original battery or could i just add a smaller kinetik like the HC 600 and have my original battery and the kenetik. im on a budget and it would be a lesser dent in my pockets if i had the smaller kinetik also will my stock alternator be able to handle either one. or do i have to upgrade that too? im getting the hifonics brz1700.1d amp and i dont want any voltage drops, cause it already drops with a sony xplod amp

could i go wire straight from the alternator to the battery in the rear? the alt would also still be wired to the front battery as well. the car im installing is an 2000 honda accord. would i need to fuse after the alternator and before the batery in the rear? in my head this would work but ive never done it this way before...

I bought a usa-425 from Ryan, the amp looks great and everything, but when hooked up...... nothing. Im thinking its the preouts on my headunit. What is the best way to test this theory out? Besides hooking the amp up to another headunit? Also, if it is the preouts anyone know how these are fixed, if at all? Thanks

hey guys a have jbl gto1200 amp going out at 1117 watts rms at 2ohm into a dual 1ohm fi bl 18in my amp doesnt come with a subsonic filter and the sub will be in a ported box tuned to 32 hertz will a fmod at 30 hertz be good?

are the new mean machines as good as the ones from like 05-08

please post what are the best 2000watt amps @ 2ohms. looking for something thats consistant or under rated at 2000 watts. it will be used to run 2 10" ssa icons in a ported enclosure.

I just picked up a pair of MTX Thunder TA81001D amps, and according to the engineers at MTX there is no way to disable the subsonic filter or bypass the built in EQ in the pre-amp board (which is a crock). The TA92001, TE4001, and TE1501 units all have a button to bypass all of this garbage, but no such button exists on the TA81001. If you take the pre-amp board out, you can clearly see a spot on the board for the bypass switch - Labeled as "S102". MTX refuses to give me a schematic or instructions on what needs to be jumpered, removed, etc. to eliminate the EQ and Subsonic filter pieces. I'm about to tear into it myself, but figured I would ask here first. If anyone has …

recommendations needed for an amp the plan currently is to run incriminator audio comps up front and a dcon 15 dual 4 in a ported box in the back now Id prefer to only have to run one amp and to slightly over power the dcon so what 4 channel amps do you think would be worth it to bridge the rear channels or are there any great 3 channels or even 5 channels since I could hook the rear channel on a 5 channel to my drop down tailgate speakers Thanks guys

Hey guys i need some help looking for a head unit for my car. Budget: around $160 so used is a option to maximize my bang for buck. Goals: Nice Stereo Remote Sub out Control in the future might want to amp the front stage CD,mp3, and usb thanks guys!

I surveyed all the quality amps thats in my $, to run my focal 165v1 and havent decide for the subs maybe a single RF 12" P1 or 12" Kicker comp both in 1.25cu.in sealed box atomic 50.4 2001 lightning bolt 300.4 zenon 80.4 formula x 1600 4ch amp forgot the specs or should i get focal solution 25 A1 will it give better sound quality?? currentlu using a very old amp infedility 800.4 pure class A, if i change to any of these amplifiers will it dramatically improve my SQ? Make it louder and cleaner

My buddy has a charger its a "smart charger" so he says will charge a 2v something charge its like the slowest charge he says. It has every abbreviation on it but agm. Will it work for my 3100?