Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

looking for the biggest oem fit alternator for a honda civic. i dont mind going up to 200 amp but there not a direct fit. and looking for a single wire alternator as well.

Hey guys, here's my predicament. I currently have an Alpine 9881 that I use to control my 6.5" Component set of adire koda's up front. The koda's run off a Rockford 800a2 @ 4 ohms getting...maybe 150rms I think. However, I know I can get some better SQ out of them if I pick up my head unit features. Here's some of the things i am hoping for and what I am not really worried about. Need: Good iPod control ( I love the alpine one now, but am open to others) HP and LP filters (The 9881 now only has very limited options). A variable slope would be nice too CD Player(no mech-less ones for me) Good EQ flexibility (a parametric would be nice) T.A. Would also be nice Single Din …

I measured my GF's CDA-7893's pre-out voltage this morning ... Here are the results. Notes: My multimeter only does AC voltage to 1 decimal point. I only did the subwoofer pre-out, which is rated @ 4 volts. I measured at the end of a 17 foot RCA cable. Battery Voltage = 14.39 volts Subwoofer Volume = +15 (0 dB) All filters off EQ flat No loudness No MX etc. Volume - Voltage 0 - 0.0 1 - 0.0 2 - 0.0 3 - 0.0 4 - 0.0 5 - 0.0 6 - 0.0 7 - 0.0 8 - 0.0 9 - 0.0 10 - 0.0 11 - 0.0 12 - 0.0 13 - 0.0 14 - 0.0 15 - 0.0 16 - 0.0 17 - 0.0 18 - 0.0 19 - 0.1 20 - 0.2 21 - 0.3 22 - 0.4 23 - 0.6 24 - 0.8 25 - 1.0 26 - 1.2 27 - 1.4 …

Looking at a setup for my car inolving 2 12" l7's, Is the 1200.1 SX amp a perfect match for the two of them wired down to 1 ohm???

Ok, im looking for a head unit that is vibration resistant, clean output, good looking (matching my interior, ill post pics if i am asked), plays MP3's and WMA's preferably (so i can keep one CD in for 3-4Hr drives), and i would like an RCA in too but that isnt required. I only need 2 sets of RCA's. I would like pause as well (if i ever want to compeate bass race it would be nice) Im getting a $139 refund from Ikes Sound for the DEI1100D (its good because i paid $70 for the amp, send 29 to get it repaired. Im basically making $40) and soon ill have around $100 from my parents, maybe more if i score awsome on the ACT (lol). so my budget is around $240 and the above is what…

Wow it looks like nothing came up... So, i'm wanting to get a Sundown SAE-1000D to power my Fi Q10. My sub has dual 1ohm coils. My question is, what will i have to do to keep my amp from burning up if i wire it to .5ohms? If planning big three and a bigger battery. Any ideas? Thanks, Michael

Who has the best deal on 1/0 wire? I'm looking to upgrade from 4 gauge to 1/0.

I bought my HU today for my 240. I decided on the Eclipse 8443. I intended to get the 8053 with BLA but I just bought the Viper 1200.1 for my Altima.

My system is currently running active with a 9886, h100 and is powered by an alpine mrp-f250 [email protected] @4 ohm, my speakers are focal access series components(minus the passive crossovers). I have an Eclipse 3242 that I thought was a good amp, but turns out to have some issues. I bought the eclipse for $75 about a year ago and it's been sitting. It looks pretty beefy internally and has alot of fusing (4x20a) making me wonder if it's underated. It's rated [email protected] 4 ohm. And 55x4 @13.8v @4 ohm. I have a friend that can mess with it and hopefully fix it for around $20. I have three options that I would like help with. I can keep using the f250, fix the eclipse and use it,…

I'm considering going with a stealth install in my new car so I'm researching quality amps that have a small footprint. My previous amps have been eD and I'm currently using a DLS A5. I will be limited to about 11X11 for the new amps and need something to push 1-3 subs (potentially as low as 1ohm total) and a set of components up front. I've seen the Alpine PDX amps and they fit the bill as far as size and power but I'm not sure how I feel about the Alpine gear. I've always considered them kind of mass market average quality stuff. And I also don't know about running Class D for my front stage. The Zed Audio Mililith and Gladius are just a little too big otherwise t…

I know I need a fuse block going from my first battery (battery under hood) to my second battery but would I need another fuse block going from my second battery to my amp

I'm wanting to run my sundown 3000 at .5 ohms and was wondering what I need to add to my electrical or what could help. Right now I have 2 c&d 77 ah in the back, factory batt up front, 220 amp alt, 2 runs of 1awg. Thanks in advance.

okay, Ive got a 2002 mercury cougar, and im wiring up my first setup (for this car at least) usually i go through the firewall with the power cable, however ive never wired anything so big. I need either a good spot in the firewall for this car specifically, if anyone knows, or an alternative way to run the wire? Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Setup is going to be 12" FI BTL fully loaded, hifonics bxi2610d, stock batt and all for now and the 0/1 gauge wires. i'm geeked but this whole power wires got me tore up lol

seen there was a guy with a blazer that had one and i got a blazer how bad does it draw current?how big of alt you got and batteries?

Has anybody heard of using a Stetsom 7KD for daily use? What kind of power is it really capable of putting out?

ok so if i got 2 amps hooked up how should i ground them, so far i got a 1/0 spliced to 2 8 guage wires. its not working very well, should i get another distro block for my gound wires as well?

I picked up a DMM the other day and have been reading up on setting my amp gains. I came across this the other day: So my question is, is it still safer to set your gains with a DMM than by ear?

like the title states i am looking for something that will do 1200-1500 @2ohm. i have not payed attention to the amp market for some time now and i dont even know where to start looking. doesnt have to be top of the line but i am looking for a good cost to performance ratio... can you guys help me out?

no constant 12v. Deck won't hold memory. I'm down to 2 more things to trouble shoot one check all wiring in car. I also have the engine light on, fog lights not working and first setting on windshield wipers not working. I have checked all fuses in dash. checked unit wiring. I'm going to check to make sure that the factory wires are matching with the aftermarkets correctly. Other than those 2 i'm completely clueless. The car is a 95 altima unit is alpine 9835

whats up, has anyone heard of Mechman alternators? if so what have you guys heard about them? http://mechman.com/store/product_info.php/cPath/8_717_1048_1912_1950_1953/products_id/273 ^^^^^ Theres the liink to the site.

Going to use it to power an RE audio 15" SE-X subwoofer. wondering did I make a mistake with this amp? Or are people saying good things about them still? For now, the sub will be seeing 2 cubic feet sealed, as I am currently in a budget crunch and don't want to shell the cash to build a different enclosure (this is also the reason for the amp choice, was price point).

I'm new here so bare with me. I have 2 power acoustic mofo 124x 12 inch 4 ohm dual voicecoils subwoofers running at 1500 watts rms each (3000 watts rms together). They are both wired parrel for 2 ohms each and wired to together at the amp for 1 ohm. I have a skar audio RP-4500.1d mono block amplifier pushing these subs. My question is do I need to upgrade my charging system to 2 high output alternators and 2 batteries along with the big 3? I did the math with the ohms law and just for my audio system alone I need 450 amps. I figured two 300 amp output alternators should be plenty. Am I right or is this overkill? If I'm wrong help me and gave me some advice on what I shoul…

i was wondering if maybe there is some kind of really easy way that works well for tuning an amp. the instruction booklet shows most settings for things like sub eq, subsonic, and frequency as set to halfway is this something that i should do with it right out of the box or should i try and tweak the knobs to some other directions. if anyone knows of a easy way to make the settings easy to set and sound fine it would help me a lot. thanks

i decided that i might as well do the big three in my town car, but i have a few questions about it. first, from the batt pos to the alt, im not sure how to connect the 1/0 to the alt. heres a pic of my alt how should i connect it to ther? should i just try and remove that red thing? also, i dont know were the engine block to chassis connection is. could someone please tell me how to find it? heres what the bay looks like another thing... can i just run the pos batt. to alt just straight across to the right and zip tie it to like the radiator hose? thanks for the help!

Hey guys i need some help looking for a head unit for my car. Budget: around $160 so used is a option to maximize my bang for buck. Goals: Nice Stereo Remote Sub out Control in the future might want to amp the front stage CD,mp3, and usb thanks guys!