Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Had one sitting around i picked up and been using since my kickers in for repairs.... Took her apart and looked around on amp guts. IDENTICAL to the 3000D BUT with the addition of fuses. Appears damn near 100% match. Ile take pics tommorow. For a cheap amp it has a ton of output power.

I tried searching but search feature doesn't really like small words like Big 3. I've seen it a lot where people say you can leave the stock alternator/ground cables connected, but does disconnecting them have any effect? I ask because I would rather just cap the stock cables off for a cleaner install.

So i just got a 200 watt 2 channel and some comps. I already have a mono amp and some 12s. The sub amp turns on when the key is in the on position. You can't hear it in the acc position. When I wire my comps and the new amp, will I be able to listen to the radio with the key in the acc position? I usually like to listen to the radio on my lunch break, etc. Will I just have to turn the key to the on position for that?

The post jumps around a bit but I try to provide as much information as possible. The main issue I have is it seems as though my voltage drops more then it should. The alternator charges at 13.3 at idle and only kicks up to around 14.1 when I am going 30-35+mph. I do have a Singer 370 which is being shipped on Friday, not sure if its gonna fit yet but we will see haha. My voltage full tilt usually drops down slowly to 12.2 after about 20seconds of play and sits there, never seen it go under 12.1 which is good but I still think it should be higher. Even when on the highway going 70mph the voltage will drop from 14.1 to 12.3. Im running a Zed leviathan which is running a…

Hey Gents, i am new at car audio systems and would like to know how the BIG 3 is done. Can somebody explain this to me please. I got a response in a list form but didnt get it. Some help please? Also, does this help with dimming?

My friend recently purchased one of these and he wanted to know if they were good or not?

alright, my girlfriends car has a rf 300.1 to a rf punch P2 12. single 4 ohm(not sure why the place let her buy that combo, 150Wx1@4ohm) I bought a new sub for her birthday, just a resonant engineering REX 12 dual 4. nothing special but it will be getting twice the power at least. it is a ~2.5 ft^3 ported box tuned to 28 I think it was, that I built for her a while back, and I still need to carpet it. RE I havent told her that I got the sub for her, and dont want to tell her. I planned on in the middle of the night going out and pulling the box, carpeting it, and dropping in the RE. obviously I wont be able to bump the system in the middle of the night. I want her to turn…

got a sa8v2d2 in my 94 grand prix and its running on a friends kicker dx250.1 at 4ohms. so maybe seeing around 150rms. way to little for this little beast. so which one of these 2 amps would be a better deal, or recommend me something. wanting to stay in the price range of thee 2 becauce I plan on upgrading to diff subs in a few months. and im trying to save for a x10 in my 99 grand price. kinda hard when no one wants to buy a lethal injection 12..... reason to go to a 10 is I want to save more trunk space, and I love the lows.

I have an older 4 channel class AB amplifier that was made by Dragster Audio Art. Amplifier goes straight into protect. I asked Chris at dB-r a couple years ago and he said more than likely it was bad output fets. Chris does not work on older amplifiers like this anymore. I am looking for some feedback on Ampmedics more than anything as we know what kinda quality Mr. Mantz is known for. Here is a couple board shots of the amplifer. It is actually a great amplifier and was solidly built in the EU (European Union).

Well i have a Panasonic 6900ub and it's supposed to have 4 volts preouts. Head unit is set at 46/62max. But when i hook it up to the sundown amp i have to crank the gain knob pass 3/4 to get it to fully power up the SE sub at 2ohms. It's set with a 60hz test tone with a cheapy sears dmm. (i don't have an o-scope). RCA wires are from knuconcepts. When i measure the rca volts from the end of the RCA i register only 200 milli volt. why am i getting so little volts through my rca cable? RCA cable is One 5 Meter Klarity Kable Blue OFC RCA Cable with Built in Turn On lead. and i have about 5ft of it wrapped up nicely cause it's longer then i need it to be.

I have a G190 and wonder how clean it is, I replaced amp and drivers when I dropped it in so could not compare much. I had a nak and it was really clean. Just wondering if I should swap it out as I can not get the new HU I want yet. Parametric on this alpine works nice. My highs are lacking and I think it is the amp, but wanted to ask what luck others had running one of these. I went to this for the fader and parametric it has, and still can do all my crossovers and gains from driver seat.

got a sae1200v2 wired to 1.33 and my mids and lows running off a mb quart pushing 125x4 at 4 ohms will one run on 1/0 awg be enough and just split it inside the car or do i need more than that thanks trying to order wire during 5 dollar shipping from knu

i was worndering if these amps do true rated power and if anyone had experience with any of their amps?

Im looking @ getting a amp for my SE and dont know which way to go. Im kinda on a budget but im open to all ideas. Want to feed it as close to 600 rms as i can. off topic: Hi to all, im new here

okay so i have done a search on this all over, and i did find one post about someone who only used the front channels and then connects the rear channels directly, but kept the fader set to the front, but this just sounds like a bad idea what i want to do is amp my front speakers (alpine type r components), but leave my rear speakers on the head unit's power (alpine sps-400's) i just bought a rockford fosgate t400-2 off a friend on the cheap so i was planning to use that (type r's with only 17 watts have absolutely zero bass) head unit is sony-gt240 ( i know sony isn't that great, but the sound quality is just as good to me as it is on some friends alpines and pioneer h…

Has anybody used/seen/heard anything from the new Audiopipe line? AQ has kinda alienated me recently and I'm looking to go in a different direction.

When I installed my Massive P1000.1 amp, I also got a 2 gauge Amp Kit that came with a 80A fuse. I just read the Massive's owners manual, it recomends a 60A fuse. Does using a 80A over a 60A make any difference? When I had my system running, I had the amp powering a SI Mag @ 1 ohm (880W).

Are these amps much good, for the price? Does anyone know if the 1Kw class D puts out actual and how about strapped? The guts don't look that bad inside, and I don't think they sold these at walmart.

Looking to purchase a good amp kit to power my SAZ 1500d. I was looking at the Kolossus 1/0 Amplifier Installation Kit on Knukonceptz.com, but I'm open to suggestions/brands. Thanks for the help.

I got a new highs amp from a friend of mine! Epic ass Audiosystems X-Ion 70.6 Plus!!!! Two fans on this side and two side on the other. A little fuzzy, but you get the idea.

I am looking for a fuse holder that will hold 2 ANL fuses that has one 1/0 in and one 1/0 out. Do they exist? or am I stuck? I am using the Stinger 3/0 oval wire to the battery bank in the back, I just dont think a single 300 amp will be enough. Thanks

what would you guys pick, i have about $300 to spend Pioneer AVH-P3100DVD or clarion nx409

Hello, I have problem with choosing speakers (I'm just new in car audio), but I got 2 power amplifiers - CONCORD CA 2075 (300W),they are both 2 channel. One of them is bridged and connected to bass tube (raveland 400W). Second one will be connected to 4 speakers (2 x front 165mm, 2 x rear 130mm) , and I need to buy them, but I don't know how to compute how much Watts those speakers should have when i will connect them to this 300W power amplifier, which would have 2 speakers connected to + and - "left" and next 2 speakers for + and - "right". (You don't need to give me models of speakers cause idk if they will be available in my country, just give me how much watts they s…

i'm installing an indash into an old explorer. heres the problem..... we wired everything up right, used the same wiring harness that was in the truck. no fuses blown or anything. indash turns on.... but we got no sound. took off the indash harness and tried battery poppin speakers... still no sound. tried hard wiring it so the truck harness and still no sound.... my guess is that the truck harness is bad and that we need to hard wire all the speakers....

i have a problem guys when ever i turn my mmats pro audio 1500.1 amp on it says protect and wont come out of protect mode i have no subs hooked up so i dont know what it could poosibly be?? any clue???