Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

was wondering if anyone has benched these yet. was wondering how much power they put out at 4 ohms bridged. al

My US Merlin md3d just blew in my car by far one of my favorite amps cause its 1 ohm stable....way underrated...n excepts 0 gauge. Don't kno were to go from here... I can get another Merlin for like 400 and be happy but wanted to here your guys thoughts on Wat I should get.... I'm runnin 2 Orion hcca 10" wired together for 1 ohm....any suggestions would b awesome...thanx

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5767552031&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5767516713&rd=1 Ok discuss.

Im looking at these 2 amps to power my 12" polk sub(150WRMS) and my front SEPS. Would you guys know which one is better in terms of quality and performance?... just base your answer with your experience and the brand name, just in case you have'nt listen or audition this models.. its not available locally so im asking the experts on AMPS... they are both on the same price range in Ebay, shipped. Im leaning to power acoustik bcoz it has more power than PG though im not sure if it is over rated... But most of the people in other forums recommend PG.... so that's make me confused... so pls help me to decide guys... many thanks... POWER ACOUSTIK OV4 800 * PWM Mosfet Powe…

B) http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/amplifiers/indexMXA.cfm above is the link to their site, I was wondering who has used or played with them, and are they the step up or the entry level?

are the new mean machines as good as the ones from like 05-08

just got this idea sitting in econ today listening to my awful TA talk about derived demand for labor... I know normally the alt isn't used for transient loads, but would it be at all possible to hook up a power wire to the alt and send it straight to the amp, using a high capacity cap somewhere along the way to stiffen the voltage during amp draws? I was thinking that in this scenario, the cap would be acting just like a battery

i was talkin to my dad about doin the big 3 with an HO alt on my car and he said goin from the alt to the engine would be a problem, cuz the stock wire has to go thru some kinda box, maybe circuitbreaker or fusebox? iono. this is gonna usin 1/0 gauge wire. 1st step of my 3rd system overhaul. thanks for your help pple!

I am looking for two bass control knobs for two kicker amps. Two questions 1) will a generic or other brand "phone line" bass controller work with my kicker amps? 2) Why are they so darned expensive. ppl are asking 25-30 bucks for them, essentially they are a potentiometer with a rubber dial? I dont see where the cost is incurred.

Has anyone ever done this? I'm going to be making custom door panels and would like to incorporate the HU into the drivers side door. I am looking for a unit that will be compatible with this mounting scheme.

I just bought a brand new sound ordnance 4 channel amp and am still waiting for a new set of speakers for my car. in the meantime I decided to test out a pair of some old alpine type r 6.5s I pulled out of my old car. they don't fit so I put them in a hasty cardboard box to put in the backseat. after installing the amp and hooking up the speakers as rears with the rcas and unplugging my rear stock speakers the alpine hooked up to the amp weren't playing at all. I remember these speakers were working perfectly before and have just been sitting in my house since. I made sure everything was wired properly, the amp turns on, protection light doesn't go on or anything and I ju…

I have a XS Power as a starting battery, 2 runs of 0gauge to my rear batt which is a Deka. I'm wanting to add another deka in the rear and wanted to know if I need to do 2 runs of wire to connect the rear batts together or will 1 run suffice. Thanks

Due to my battery hookup location and the fact that it will be nearly impossible to get a 0 gauge wire on it unless I rewire the alternator and main power line toa new battery block, how bad would it be to run 4 gauge wire to a fuse block and 0 gauge afterwards? According to charts 4 gauge should be able to handle up to 300 Amos if it is a short length. So will battery —> fuse (4 gauge 1 ft long) —> distribution block (0 gauge guessing 13 ft long). Will this work ok?

Gain Matching Correctly setting a sound system

I'm running a single saz2500d and I was wondering what battery setup I should run to keep my volts up? Also should I run 1 or 2 batteries? Thanks guys

What type of sealant should I use on my rubber gasket (firewall) that is "temporary" (can be taken off in a couple of years)?

I just picked up a pair of MTX Thunder TA81001D amps, and according to the engineers at MTX there is no way to disable the subsonic filter or bypass the built in EQ in the pre-amp board (which is a crock). The TA92001, TE4001, and TE1501 units all have a button to bypass all of this garbage, but no such button exists on the TA81001. If you take the pre-amp board out, you can clearly see a spot on the board for the bypass switch - Labeled as "S102". MTX refuses to give me a schematic or instructions on what needs to be jumpered, removed, etc. to eliminate the EQ and Subsonic filter pieces. I'm about to tear into it myself, but figured I would ask here first. If anyone has …

just wondering, I was looking for images for a banner and I found HU's on their site, they resemble on the outside like the first run of RF HU's for a few years ago, anyway here is a pic of the top end unit: B)

I now run a PPI DCX 1000.1 running 2 IDQv3 subs. A shop in town has had this US amp MD23 sitting on the shelf for a few years now never been used and has marked it way down. Comparing the specs it seems like the US amp would be better for SQ but it is an A/B so the PPI is probably more efficient. PPI S/N 80%, US amp S/N 105%, PPI damping 50, US amp damping 600. I also like the fact that I can run my subs at 2ohms instead of 1 ohm. Anyways this is something I don't have to do but it would be nice to try something new. I don't want the US amp if it's going to drain my electrical system real bad. Any input would be greatly appreciated

I had a guy offer me a Kinetik HC600 for $30 today. He said it was in good condition and everything, just trying to get rid of all his old equipment for his new build. Are these things any good, and is this a good price for one? I was planning on getting an extra battery for my trunk soon anyway so this may help.. what do you guys think?

I surveyed all the quality amps thats in my $, to run my focal 165v1 and havent decide for the subs maybe a single RF 12" P1 or 12" Kicker comp both in 1.25cu.in sealed box atomic 50.4 2001 lightning bolt 300.4 zenon 80.4 formula x 1600 4ch amp forgot the specs or should i get focal solution 25 A1 will it give better sound quality?? currentlu using a very old amp infedility 800.4 pure class A, if i change to any of these amplifiers will it dramatically improve my SQ? Make it louder and cleaner

SparkFun Electronics - DSO Nano - Pocket-Sized Digital Oscilloscope seems pretty decent, not sure if it covers the ranges needed to detect clipping from HU and also to set my gains properly...Any input? Thanks.

im planning a large build right now and was thinking if my alternator only puts out 250 or so amps and my wire is rated at 300amps is multiple runs really needed? my plan is one DC or equal 270 amp alt( doubt i can find a dual alt for this car). 2 runs + and two runs - from the starting battery to my battery bank of 9 batteries running approx 10k watts.

Well, the price was just too good. I went along and got the Visonik and love how it looks. Old school red colour to it, and its pretty damn big. Looks like my next step will to be getting those Icons. Might take a few guts pictures when I get home after work today, wasnt enough time in the morning for it.

Iv read many a thread talking about caps and well, nobody likes them ^^. So what i was thinking about doing, instead of just chucking it, would it be possible to remove the LED display and wire it upfront to be used as a voltmeter? Opinions?